Crestone Needle Advice

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Jay521
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Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Jay521 »

If the weather cooperates, I think I am going to give Crestone Needle a try this Sunday. I have read and studied every trip report as well as the standard route description. And although I'll be going solo, I imagine there will be quite a few people on the mountain this holiday weekend so hopefully, spotting the "east-west" gully crossover won't be an issue.

This will be a step up for me difficulty-wise and I am looking for any last minute words of wisdom that anyone might have. I know this is a "favorite mountain" for a lot of people so I am guessing/hoping that many of you have helpful insights.

Thanks in advance!
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rijaca
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by rijaca »

Jay, considering your experience, you'll be fine.

Have fun!
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Exiled Michigander
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Exiled Michigander »

Jay,

Stiffler_from_Denver and I are planning on doing the Needle on Sunday as well. Send him a PM if you want to try to meet up in the morning. We'd love to climb with you if you want the company.
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Exiled Michigander »

Oh, and we're planning on camping somewhere near S. Colony Lakes on Saturday night . . .
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Jay521
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Jay521 »

Exiled Michigander wrote:Oh, and we're planning on camping somewhere near S. Colony Lakes on Saturday night . . .
PM sent
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by DeTour »

Ah, don't we love to give advice ...

Some of the harder climbing is approaching the top of Broken Hand Pass.

As you traverse toward the east gully, there's at least one gully before the "correct" east gully that looks a bit like your destination. Don't take the bait. You'll know the real one when you reach it. (I don't think the route description had photo 10 when we hiked the Needle.)

We found the crossover point to be very easy to locate based on photo 13 in the route description. The distinctive red rock in the gully just below the crossover point, the narrowing of the gully to a sharp dihedral above it, and the big fin-type formation at the crest of the ridge are together unmistakeable.

The only truly difficult move was right at the crossover, passing a slightly overhanging rock which pushes the upper body out to an uncomfortable position over the gully. The rib crossover has some air, but ascending traverse line and the great rock quality make it really quite easy.

After the crossing the rib, take a real good look back (and photo, ideally) of the crossover point as it looks from the west gully. More than a few folks have missed that crossover and descended too far down the west gully into some real steep, loose nasty stuff. A couple young guys who climbed it the same day as us did that, but fortunately realized their error and backtracked to the correct crossover point.

The summit is awesome, with a nice little ramp with great views east over the South Colony Lakes basin and Humboldt. Last stretch to the summit is a kinda mini-catwalk, but not narrow and no severed exposure as I recall. The rock is fabulous pretty much the whole way. You'll have a great time on a classic peak!
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Bullwinkle »

I have a TR posted on this peak (with pics) that you may find useful. I did this alone a few years ago without difficulty.
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by sunny1 »

My 0.02:
If it's different or more difficult terrain, if there's anything about the endeavor that gives you pause, go with a buddy!
You'll have more fun, too :mrgreen:

If I didn't already have plans this weekend, I'd go with you!

Have fun! :-D
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by mountain hiker »

I did the Peak to Needle traverse a few days ago. I feel the hardest part was coming down from the summit of Needle. Maybe it is because I had never climbed Needle before, but I recall that there were a few spots on the standard route (and cairned) being harder than so called "class 3". These include a steep pitch before you get to the entrance of the east gully, and the crux of exiting east gully (traversing across a gap).
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Jay521 »

@ rijaca - Thanks for the vote of confidence!
@DeTour - MUCHO appreciated.
@Bullwinkle - Yours is one of the TR's I had read over. Multiple times....
@sunny1 - points well taken. I don't get summit fever and am not afraid to turn around if I think I am in over my head. Hopefully, I will be able to meet up with someone on the mountain - at least for some of the more difficult spots.
@MountainHiker - I appreciate your pointers very much.
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by Gareth »

Jay521 wrote:...spotting the "east-west" gully crossover won't be an issue.
When I first climbed the Needle nine years ago, I, as well as seemingly everyone else that morning, completely missed the left gully cross over and continued up the right gully. It was fun climbing, although it wasn't the easiest available route. However, what it might lack in ease, it makes up for in ease of route finding. For several years I've wondered about this fabled left gully. Only in the last month or two did I realize where and what it was. :lol:
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Re: Crestone Needle Advice

Post by GeezerClimber »

The Needle is certainly enjoyable but be prepared for route finding up and down. While ascending, look back down a lot. We had some difficulty finding the route back into the west gully at the beginning of our descent. There were cairns everywhere.

Dave
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