Ellingwood's South Face holds a lot of unconsolidated sugar snow and facets, topped off by a thin, breakable crust layer. There was almost no sign whatsoever of slabs or consolidation of any kind above 12,800'. Above 13,500' we found heavily rimed boulders and rocks protruding out of the snow pack, with unconsolidated sugar filling in the space between them. Due to the nature of the breakable crust, the unconsolidated snow, and the loose talus underneath it, it took our party an hour and a half to climb 500'. Climbing and skiing on this face in its current condition is not recommended. See Dancesatmoonrise's Blanca conditions update for info on the Blue Lakes area and the Lake Como Road.
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