|Peak:||Pyramid Peak (14er)|
|Posted By:||Matt Lemke|
|Date of Information:||06/09/2012|
Climbed Pyramid Peak today via the NE ridge route and all I have to say is be sure you read the 14ers.com route description for this peak. We didn‘t know that there was a CFI trail made on the slopes above Maroon Lake for easier access into the north facing basin below Pyramid so we took the "Notch" route described in Roachs‘ old 14ers book. Wasn‘t bad at all but we could have saved lots of effort. Climb up and through the notch was snow free. The basin had some snow left in it and spikes helped early in the morning but it was only like a 10 degree angle of ascent so easy. The west facing scree gullies to reach the 13,000 foot saddle were mostly snow free with one avoidable snowfield. On the upper ridge, we kind of took the wrong route and ascended the entire green gully from where the trail met up with it (after that cool tiny ledge traverse) to the summit. We didn‘t know there was an easy cairned route to the left of the green gully looking up. We found this on the way down and thanked the lord for the easier descent. The last 1000 feet to the summit we only crossed snow twice...once at the cornice down around 13,100 feet and once on the traverse around to the notch before the green gully (only like 10 foot section with bucket steps). I left my hiking poles at the 13,000 foot saddle which proved to be a big mistake...goats ate them. I met up with Nelson as well who climbed it solo and the goats stole his. KEEP your poles if you climb this peak!
The route we took was sustained 4th class for at least 500 feet but as said, a much easier route follows to the left of the green gully. You only HAVE to ascend this gully for maybe 150 feet. Nelson led me down the CFI trail on the descent which was a pleasant surprise to me as I didn‘t have to downclimb more talus! Glad to have met you and sorry about your poles. PM me for any more info. I‘ll have pics up sometime tomorrow night. Wish me luck on Capitol tomorrow. After a new high for me on Pyramid, I‘m off to test my new skills on Capitol