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 Peak:  Mt. Wilson (14er)
 Route:  Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  ChrisinAZ
 Date of Information:  06/24/2012
 Date Posted:  06/26/2012
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We ascended El Diente via the North Buttress route, traversed to Wilson, and descended the standard route back to Navajo Basin.

North Buttress--almost entirely dry. There were a few snow patches above the fourth bench that made things a bit sketchy and wet, but we were able to navigate around/through them without snow gear. Took the alternate route to the right to attain the ridge crest, which was replete with 4th class rock but solid. No need for any snow gear.

Traverse--also almost entirely dry. A few patches to cross through/just under on the north side of the traverse just east of El Diente‘s summit. Snow is present, but avoidable with some route-finding when passing the gendarme just before the last dirt gully (shortly after the crux and knife edge). One more patch at the base of the last dirt gully can be avoided by dropping down. Again, snow gear is not necessary.

Descent--most of the route is melted out. Crossing the first gully on the way down involved traversing 10-15‘ of snow. This may be doable without an ice axe, but it‘s safer to use one (I didn‘t use one, but my partner had his and crossed first). Crossed/descended a few mild snowfields further down, and even in mid-afternoon did not post-hole. An axe may be desired, but shouldn‘t be needed for much longer.

What little snow there is on these routes will probably be gone in a few weeks.




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