Peak Condition Update | Kit Carson Peak

Peak:	Kit Carson Peak
Route:	North Ridge
Range:	Sangre de Cristo
Posted By:	Brian Thomas
Date of Info:	8/11/2013
Date Posted:	8/12/2013

Details
The heavy rain and cold temps on Saturday night iced up much of the upper route. Pic 1 taken about 9:30 looking up the North Ridge shows the east (left) side dry and the right (west) shaded side holding a lot of snow and ice. Ascending the crest of the ridge I had to clean snow and ice out of the holds for my right hand and foot. Pic 2 taken about 9:45 is topping out a tower along the ridge with snow and ice visible at left (west). This was some of the scariest conditions I have ever encountered, it would have been impossible to downclimb. Pics 3 and 4, taken at 11:00 and 11:15 respectively, show snow and ice on the route between Kit Carson and Challenger.

Details

The heavy rain and cold temps on Saturday night iced up much of the upper route. Pic 1 taken about 9:30 looking up the North Ridge shows the east (left) side dry and the right (west) shaded side holding a lot of snow and ice. Ascending the crest of the ridge I had to clean snow and ice out of the holds for my right hand and foot. Pic 2 taken about 9:45 is topping out a tower along the ridge with snow and ice visible at left (west). This was some of the scariest conditions I have ever encountered, it would have been impossible to downclimb. Pics 3 and 4, taken at 11:00 and 11:15 respectively, show snow and ice on the route between Kit Carson and Challenger.

Comments or Questions

bergsteigen	Crestones looked icy on Sunday 8/13/2013 9:25pm Do you see yourself? Photo from Rito Alto Sunday
Brian Thomas	@SilverLynx 8/15/2013 12:28am I went up this route with Natalie (nkan02) early last September, totally dry. I never really looked down, just kept reaching for great holds that were always right there, and it felt like it was over too soon (despite us getting lapped by BoggyB!). The forecast low for last Saturday night was 38F, I should have noticed the creeks just before aiming for the ridge being iced over as a warning sign. I was up there with my brother who is a skilled technical climber but who doesn't particularly enjoy exposed class 4 routes without rope. By the time we were halfway up the ridge, it was too steep and icy to turn back. I wedged my entire left arm inside of a few cracks close to the ridge in some places just to balance my body weight and free up my other 3 limbs to find good holds. If it's dry, you should find it easy and enjoyable if you don't mind exposure, it felt very comparable to Crestone Needle with the abundance of holds.
SnowAlien	what 4/2/2015 7:45pm you were doing there anyway? You already climbed N.Ridge!

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