Peak: | Mt. Meeker |
Route: | Dreamweaver |
Range: | Front |
Posted By: | Matt Lemke |
Date of Info: | 5/18/2014 |
Date Posted: | 5/22/2014 |
Details |
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Did Dreamweaver last Sunday...trail up to treeline was very well packed to Chasm Lake. Snow headed up towards Dreamweaver on the Apron was still soft and post-holey. Saw big avalanches coming off Longs all morning and bombarding the Notch Couloir and Broadway. Parties turned back when they saw these. Reached the base of the couloir after what felt like hours of slogging and started climbing. Deep snow in the couloir and no ice on any of the steps. Soloed the entire route up to the final crux step which we roped up for and placed one piece. All the screws and cams I brought weren't used. Finished the slog up to the summit and descended the Loft which was terrifying and likely the most objective danger I ever put myself in. Had that steep slope right before the ledge slid we probably would have died. Wet slides were found everywhere. Once below the ledge on the Loft route, easy plunge stepping ensued and the hike out went smoothly. Saw parties on Martha all day and another party descended Iron Gates. Traverse to Meeker Ridge and Iron Gates descent was snowy but doable. Iron Gates descent itself had lots of talus. Photo descriptions: 1. Avalanche coming off Longs 2. Looking towards the Flying Buttress and the apron 3. Sam on the last crux step (the only part we were roped) 4. Loft Route descent |
Comments or Questions |
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