Peak Condition Update | Longs Peak

Peak:	Longs Peak
Route:	Lamb's Slide to Loft/upper Keplinger
Range:	Front
Posted By:	AlexeyD
Date of Info:	7/19/2014
Date Posted:	7/20/2014

Details
1) Approach: The NPS-described "treacherous snowfield" on the Chasm Lake trail is indeed there, and not an exaggeration. While very short (less than 100 feet), the snow crossing is a tiny (6 inches or so) foot ledge, frozen solid in the predawn hours, on a steep slope with a nasty runout, and a slip would make for a really unfortunate start to your day. Don't be lazy, and get out your axe and traction! Microspikes are a good way to make this crossing both safe and fast. If this is your first time, going around the right side of Chasm Lake will almost certainly take longer than you expect, especially in the dark. If you look carefully, you'll find something of a use trail to help you find the easiest way. 2) Lamb's Slide: We started climbing around 5:45 AM. Conditions varied from step kickable-snow to very firm, thick, icy crust. The icier sections required some care, but it never really gets very steep, and we didn't feel the need for a belay. Confident snow/ice climbers should be OK with an alpine axe and crampons; some may want a second tool. I'd estimate the average angle at around 35 degrees, with the steeper parts around 40. The continuous snow ends where Lamb's Slide meets the Flying Dutchman. From there you have a choice of either crossing another snowfield above the Dutchman, or going around and below it on loose, but easy talus, to the final 100 or so feet of 2nd/easy 3rd class to the Loft. 3) The Loft to Keplinger's: Part of the slope leading to the location of the former Clark's Arrow has seen recent rockfall activity (likely the same that caused the Arrow's demise). Accidentally entering one of the recently-created rockfall chutes, I dislodged a microwave-sized boulder that came within an inch of crushing my foot. If you stay to descender's right (as my wife did, wisely) you avoid the need to go into the chutes, and thus avoid the worst of the choss. The Clark's Arrow traverse is still reasonably well-cairned. If you don't see the cairns, just head towards the base of the prominent buttress on descender's right: the route skirts just under the buttress. Take care to keep following the cairns across the boulder-strewn slope, and don't be tempted to ascend too soon: we made this mistake and ended up several hundred feet above the actual route. The "chimney downclimb" didn't feel too difficult (just a couple of third-class moves). The Keplinger Couloir is straightforward and mostly pretty solid if you stay on the big blocks. There are some wet sections, and also a bit of ice just below the junction with the Homestretch on the Keyhole; this ice can easily be avoided if care is taken. 4) Descent: We descended the Keyhole. As expected, there were 100s of people on it, so I'll leave it to someone else to describe the conditions there. In summary, this is a great option for a big mountaineering adventure on Longs, taking you on a full circumnavigation of the mountain, with great variety of terrain, views, and difficulty. No technical gear except for snow climbing equipment, and a helmet, should be necessary. Enjoy!

Details

1) Approach: The NPS-described "treacherous snowfield" on the Chasm Lake trail is indeed there, and not an exaggeration. While very short (less than 100 feet), the snow crossing is a tiny (6 inches or so) foot ledge, frozen solid in the predawn hours, on a steep slope with a nasty runout, and a slip would make for a really unfortunate start to your day. Don't be lazy, and get out your axe and traction! Microspikes are a good way to make this crossing both safe and fast.

If this is your first time, going around the right side of Chasm Lake will almost certainly take longer than you expect, especially in the dark. If you look carefully, you'll find something of a use trail to help you find the easiest way.

2) Lamb's Slide: We started climbing around 5:45 AM. Conditions varied from step kickable-snow to very firm, thick, icy crust. The icier sections required some care, but it never really gets very steep, and we didn't feel the need for a belay. Confident snow/ice climbers should be OK with an alpine axe and crampons; some may want a second tool. I'd estimate the average angle at around 35 degrees, with the steeper parts around 40. The continuous snow ends where Lamb's Slide meets the Flying Dutchman. From there you have a choice of either crossing another snowfield above the Dutchman, or going around and below it on loose, but easy talus, to the final 100 or so feet of 2nd/easy 3rd class to the Loft.

3) The Loft to Keplinger's: Part of the slope leading to the location of the former Clark's Arrow has seen recent rockfall activity (likely the same that caused the Arrow's demise). Accidentally entering one of the recently-created rockfall chutes, I dislodged a microwave-sized boulder that came within an inch of crushing my foot. If you stay to descender's right (as my wife did, wisely) you avoid the need to go into the chutes, and thus avoid the worst of the choss.

The Clark's Arrow traverse is still reasonably well-cairned. If you don't see the cairns, just head towards the base of the prominent buttress on descender's right: the route skirts just under the buttress. Take care to keep following the cairns across the boulder-strewn slope, and don't be tempted to ascend too soon: we made this mistake and ended up several hundred feet above the actual route. The "chimney downclimb" didn't feel too difficult (just a couple of third-class moves). The Keplinger Couloir is straightforward and mostly pretty solid if you stay on the big blocks. There are some wet sections, and also a bit of ice just below the junction with the Homestretch on the Keyhole; this ice can easily be avoided if care is taken.

4) Descent: We descended the Keyhole. As expected, there were 100s of people on it, so I'll leave it to someone else to describe the conditions there. In summary, this is a great option for a big mountaineering adventure on Longs, taking you on a full circumnavigation of the mountain, with great variety of terrain, views, and difficulty. No technical gear except for snow climbing equipment, and a helmet, should be necessary. Enjoy!

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