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 Peak:  El Diente Peak (Unranked 14er)
 Route:  North Buttress
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Monster5
 Date of Information:  07/03/2011
 Date Posted:  07/05/2011
 Report

Packed in Saturday. On Sunday, climbed the buttress, traversed to Mt Wilson, then descended straight down the face due to weather. Attempted Wilson Peak immediately after but the weather patterns shifted and I turned around at the Gladstone saddle. Returned to WP in the morning.

Navajo Approach: Mostly dry with some wet spots. Plenty of dry camp sites around the lake.

North Buttress: Basically snow free until the last hundred feet. Nice, solid scramble. Numerous lines and options. Last 100' has two parts - a softer, low-angle snow knife edge/traverse followed by a shady, moderately steep couloir (top of the Luttrell?). I used an axe and crampons on trail-runners for the snow.

Traverse to Mt Wilson: Mostly dry. Ice axes were used for comfort a few times. Again, plenty of scramble options. Met jbchalk and his wife, Kristin, on the El D summit and had an awesome time traversing with them. Had to wait for a lull in the storm to reach the summit.

Descent off Mt Wilson: Standard route looked mostly dry with a few couloir crossings. A few groups were on it. I went straight down the gully from the summit. It was steep and soft enough to warrant facing in for most of it. Speedy descent route.




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