Dang, this is so different than all the Collegiates I've been climbing this summer - they're all basically melted. Thanks for the update! I've got my ice axe and crampons ready for an ascent through the Lavender Couloir if I decide to go for it on Tuesday.

Could you tell us the timing of your trip and the conditions at those times? When was it good to climb up the LC, when did it turn to postholing?

Thanks!
John

We started at Lower trail head at 5:30 and summitted at 10:07. As the heaviest climber, probably 260lbs with gear, I postholed the most. On the way up -- we followed other tracks and for the most part were ok - but near rocks or random places - sometimes plunged through. The LC was firm going up -- kick stepped with microspikes. Saw two climber come down with no traction -- one with just shoes, shorts, and a smile. At the summit - we climbed up some rocks (easy rock to rock) to bypass the notch area which had some untracked snow leading to it (i.e. nothing firm to follow). The other climbers had started out at 4:30 and we met them mid way in the LC (we ascending and they descending) and I was postholing when off other tracks and especially near the rocks. Going down, around 10:30 the snow was warmer already (the LC gets the sun early), and the top couple inches were softer and slippery. We had one of our group slip and have to self arrest -- he was plunge stepping soft snow and unexpectedly hit a frozen patch. So earlier is better -- pick your track carefully on the snow -- but be ready for slippery/slushy on the way down. Below the LC, large expanses of snow -- we some some glissading tracks -- some pretty fresh. So we saw climbers with axes, poles, traction, and no traction, and nothing. Did not use crampons or see anyone else using them. Weather on Friday was awesome -- warm and light clouds -- and lots of melting. Have a great climb!

Wow, thanks for all the detail! Really appreciate your time in responding so thoroughly. Helps me prepare a ton.

Appreciate it, have a good one!
John