Peak Condition Update | Mt. Sneffels

Peak:	Mt. Sneffels
Route:	Southwest Ridge
Range:	San Juan
Posted By:	Wentzl
Date of Info:	6/27/2016
Date Posted:	6/27/2016

Details
Ok, had to add my two cents here after Caleb. Even though just a day later, we have a bit of a different take. Don't go up here for the next few weeks without an axe and some good common sense. The snow conditions above Lavender Col are tricky and dangerous. If you don't like snow, do the variation on the south along the rock that avoids it. That said, the route from Blue Lake Pass up the SW Ridge is in great shape. Snow can be avoided for the most part, except the first couple hundred vertical feet from Blue Lakes Pass. An axe is comforting, traction is not necessary. Descending the standard route, the V-notch is finally snow free! Took a long time this year. As an alternative, hike to the very top of the gully and head straight up along the ridge. Looks hard, but nothing more than lower 4th class. oh yeah, just to be clear, bring an axe or stay out of the gully above Lavender Col for a couple weeks. No need for snowshoes anymore.

Details

Ok, had to add my two cents here after Caleb. Even though just a day later, we have a bit of a different take. Don't go up here for the next few weeks without an axe and some good common sense. The snow conditions above Lavender Col are tricky and dangerous. If you don't like snow, do the variation on the south along the rock that avoids it. That said, the route from Blue Lake Pass up the SW Ridge is in great shape. Snow can be avoided for the most part, except the first couple hundred vertical feet from Blue Lakes Pass. An axe is comforting, traction is not necessary.

Descending the standard route, the V-notch is finally snow free! Took a long time this year. As an alternative, hike to the very top of the gully and head straight up along the ridge. Looks hard, but nothing more than lower 4th class.

oh yeah, just to be clear, bring an axe or stay out of the gully above Lavender Col for a couple weeks. No need for snowshoes anymore.

Comments or Questions

mountainmaestro	Axe needed on SW ridge, standard descent, or both? 6/28/2016 12:53am Planning on doing the SW ridge (both up and down, probably) while camping around the Blue Lakes on July 16. Is an axe needed on the ridge route itself, or just when descending the standard route? I had hoped not to bring my axe but will do so if advisable. Thanks in advance for your take.
Wentzl	Axe on SW Ridge? 6/28/2016 6:36am You will cross some snow. Check out the third photo in my peak condition update. The big snowfield at the start will still be there, but it is crossed primarily up high right where it abuts the rock. It would be prudent to have an axe, but you can get by ok without. The little snow patch up high in the photo can be a bit exposed and you would want your axe here, but you can avoid it as described. You will also cross over the top of a big snowfilled gully at the crux. I did not take my axe out here, but again, a personal decision.
mountainmaestro	Thx 6/28/2016 10:05am Excellent. Thank you for the added detail.
jdcoleman	Confirmed 6/29/2016 9:00am Summitted Sneffels from the SW Rdige on Monday, as well - I confirm the need for an ice axe as there are two sections in particular when you will need the traction/comfort if you fall/slide. Just nice to have. The ridge is pretty gnarly, a ton of fun, and very rewarding. Make sure you know what you're doing before attempting this ridge esp with these sections of snow that force your move. Thanks for the great report! John
bart23	Road 6/29/2016 1:03pm Was the 4wd road clear to the upper TH?
Wentzl	Road Conditions 6/29/2016 1:52pm No. It was clear to one hairpin turn past the Wright's Lake trailhead.
IAmtnclimber	Honest opinion 6/30/2016 6:00am Best guess, do you think an ice axe will be needed in 2 weeks for the Col? Thanks
Mikael1289	Planned summit on 7/2/16 6/30/2016 7:30am After summiting via SW Ridge, I am planning to descend via Lavender Col, then connect up with the East Slopes and down into Blain Basin. Are snow shoes necessary for any of the lower approaches up the mountain, on the Blue Lakes Trail, or Blain Basin? Thanks, Mikael
Wentzl	snowshoes/axe qustions 6/30/2016 8:17am No snowshoes necessary for the approach from Yankee Boy. Sorry, I have not been in Blaine Basin yet this year. Past experience says you won't need them. Axe for the Col in 2 weeks? Yes, unless you take the variation described in the Roach guide that takes you on the rock ridge just to the south of the snow. Very pleasant and easier than the snow most of the time.
IAmtnclimber	Thanks 6/30/2016 10:19am Appreciate the input! Thanks!

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