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 Peak:  North Maroon Peak
 Route:  Northeast Ridge
 Range:  Elk
 Posted By:  goingup
 Date of Info:  7/31/2016
 Date Posted:  8/1/2016
Details

I do not understand what all the whoo haaa over the class 4 chimney in these condition reports is about? My group had myself (100 pound girl), another girl (115 pounds) and two dudes one was (a shorter 170 pounds) the other (a big 6'4 190 pounds) and a DOG and we ALL ascended and descended the class 4 chimney just fine. The bigger guys used the ledge above to pull themselves up while I squeezed up the crack/crevice all the way to the top. If you can make three class 4 moves you should have zero issue with this crux.

2 weeks prior to my successful summit I was stormed off 500 feet from the summit. I had issues locating the chimney (as the cairn shown in photos is no longer at the base and I did not correctly negotiate the ledges from the notch to ridge proper). I tried to find the alternative class 3 route around and it was drenched in slimy wet gross loose exposed rock.

In my opinion, climb the class 4 chimney. It is only a little bit tricky but a lot of fun.

Be concerned with the REST of the mountain which is a scary loose pile of crap. Rock bombs were flying on summit day and it wasn't the dog who sent one of them (all human triggered).



Comments or Questions
AlexeyD
User
cruxes...
8/2/2016 11:02am
I noticed this too...oftentimes, sections of 14er routes considered to be a "crux" are much less of a challenge for fit, competent scramblers than the technically easier but loose, sometimes scary and exposed other portions of the route. Capitol Knife Edge vs. the rest of "Capitol Head" is a case in point. The problem is, there is no "loose pile of crap" rating system developed yet


goingup
User
Hahahahaahha
8/2/2016 11:18am
So true! The face of Capitol is definitely the crux...all the solid climbing parts (including K2) are SO fun!


joe21louis
Explaining the "whoo haaa" for ya.
8/4/2016 11:37am
I hear ya on the chimney, it doesn't seem too dangerous, and the "crux" of this route feels more like it's at the top of the second gully (loose and steep!). Every time I've been up there the chimney has been solid. Nonetheless, 4 years ago, two solo climbers crossed paths ascending this mtn, and ended up joining each other for the remainder of the route up N. Maroon. They made it to the chimney and traded cameras to snap a shot of each other ascending. The first of the two confidently climbed up the short chimney, blindly trusting the upper holds after finding solid lower holds. This person, pulled a small slab loose, a slab that hundreds of climbers trusted prior, and was sent tumbling down the rubble in front of the chimney and off the near ledge.

Guess all I'm trying to say is even the less challenging cruxes have claimed experienced climber's lives, and the rock in the Elks is most notorious for this. I'm sure you know this better than I, fellow climber "goingup", just wanted to share with others who may be reading about the cruxes like the chimney.

Be safe up there!


goingup
User
Joe
8/4/2016 11:41am
Of course I agree rock can give any time. I however never blindly grabbed for anything at the top. I stemmed my way up climbers left the whole way. I actually never really used a "hold". All pressure.


XterraRob
User
Perspective
8/9/2016 11:54am
There a lot of new/beginner climbers that aren't familiar/as comfortable with aspects such as chimneys etc. That's why there is emphasis for care because it's catered towards them so they don't get in over their head.



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