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Torreys Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-12-06  Kelso Ridge  The route is in good shape and is still transitioning to winter climbing conditions. No snowshoes needed as yet on the approach. We did the lower third of the ridge to below the white wall sans traction and used microspikes the rest of the way. Crampons seemed to be overkill as there was more rock than snow. There is some crappy sugar snow you have to wade through to get to the base of the white wall. The knife edge isn‘t much harder than summer conditions. There is some hard packed, wind blown snow in spots below the summit. Here are my photos from the climb: Kevin Baker   2014-12-07  0     Edit Delete 
2014-11-13  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  Headed for Grizzly D (and entered this under Torreys). High winds, low visibility, car said 4f at the top of the pass around 9am. A little bit of postholing heading up the ridge from the top of the pass, but not too bad. Small pockets of knee deep drifts but those were short, and I don‘t think snowshoes would have been worth the bother. Once you turn south on the ridge there‘s a little bit of snow here and there but the wind is blowing most of it away and there‘s nothing deep. Took a break on top of Cupid in a whiteout, the low visability was disorienting, wind was filling in tracks, and GPS came in very handy. We didn‘t summit anything other than Cupid. Who knows how conditions might change but if you head up before the storms are over I would bring something to protect your face, pack a GPS if you have one, and be prepared for 20-30+ mph sustained winds and 0f temps. Back at the car CDOT politely informed us that they were closing the pass. a day in the life   2014-11-14  0     Edit Delete 
2014-11-01  Kelso Ridge  Climbed Kelso Ridge on Saturday 11/1. The route is snow free for most of the route. However below the white wall at 13,000 ft is a snow field that required some post-holing. At about 13,900 ft the snow becomes significant and requires some work to get through or around. I chose to climb up the slanted rocks before the knife edge (above dead dog) since either side was covered in snow. The rocks were generally dry but did hold some ice which made some of the holds a bit sketchy. Knife edge is snow free. After the knife edge snow is present until the summit but was able to kick steps in. I felt comfortable with just an axe. On the descent (normal route) I used traction since the trail was packed down and icy. jenkscolin   2014-11-02  0  2    Edit Delete 
2014-10-30  South Slopes  Traction absolutely necessary as there is ice on the trail especially at the beginning of the ridge. Did some postholing between the last cairn and the saddle, but otherwise it was an extremely pleasant climb with gentle wind and perfectly clear skies. ForeignMoss   2014-10-31  0     Edit Delete 
2014-10-25  Kelso Ridge  Pics from Saturday 10/25, it‘s pretty dry except for a few shaded sections, recommend microspikes and axe for the ascent and trekking poles for descent of the standard route. Brian Thomas   2014-10-27 4     Edit Delete 
2014-10-19  Dead Dog Couloir  Hiked Dead Dog today. Definitely not enough snow to ski it. Hardest part is getting through the very loose scree just to get to the bottom of the couloir. Obviously, crampons, ice ax, and helmet are a must. Lots of small rocks (pebbles really) flew down the couloir due to melting snow while we were climbing up. Snow is generally pretty solid. Generally a few inches of new snow on top of a solid base. A few spots have a couple feet of "powder" leading to significant slipping (not enough to need self-arresting techniques though) making these few spots frustrating to get through. The top is no steeper than any part of the couloir as there is not much snow there. Most parts have snow no more than 5 feet across. quinnwolf   2014-10-19 4     Edit Delete 
2014-10-07  Kelso Ridge  Had a nice climb up Kelso Ridge today. Some snow here and there that added a bit of difficulty, but not bad. Didn‘t use micro spikes on the way up, but glad I had them for the descent down the hard packed snow on Grays main trail down from the saddle. bmcqueen   2014-10-07 1  1    Edit Delete 
2014-10-05  Kelso Ridge  Ended up getting part way up Kelso this morning. Experienced extremely heavy winds about halfway up along with a bit more ice and snow that expected - NOAA was reporting gusts up to 33mph, but based on previous experience these felt more like 2x that at the heaviest gusts. Was on Kelso just as the sun rose and was hoping for some melting to take place after the sun hit the ridge, but the clouds were moving in very quickly and it was overcast, so I decided to bail since some of the holds were looking a bit too icy and snow covered for my liking, especially with the wind. By the time I got back to the main trail, both peaks were capped with clouds. Hopefully the afternoon cleared up a bit, but at that point things were not looking promising. Good bit of snow on the saddle between G&T, definitely recommend some traction on all routes. Parts of Kelso had some snow that was about 6" or so deep. Road conditions were excellent. You could probably drive a Prius up that road now  rkohler   2014-10-05 2     Edit Delete 
2014-09-27  South Slopes  Convinced my husband to return based on a couple reports that rode had been repaired over the summer. Be ware, it is still horrific and we didn‘t notice any improvements from June. We scraped the bottom of our AWD SUV twice despite very hard efforts to avoid this. Some car smashed open their oil tank and it had leaked all over the rode. Cars park along the side of the rode and force you into the rocky boulders. brooked   2014-09-27  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-13  Kelso Ridge  route is pretty much dry until you get to 13800‘, then there is some snow/ice on the north (right) side of the ridge. I managed with no traction or axe, but I had to be careful. We went right over the white rock fin after the knife edge, instead of skirting it to the right like usual. The final slope is snowy as well. I‘d think with a few days of sunshine it will melt. SolarAlex   2014-09-13  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-10  Kelso Ridge  There was a light dusting of snow on portions of the route until about 13,350 ft where the snow became about 1-2 ft deep (all on the north side of the ridge). We were forced to turn around and descend back down the Kelso Ridge immediately after crossing the knife edge due to winter conditions that we deemed impassible without the proper gear/training (see Photo #36 in the route description for this area). Bummer seeing as how we were only about 200 feet below the summit. Would not recommend the upper portion of this route to anyone without winter gear/training. Ben D   2014-09-10  0  1  Edit Delete 
2014-09-05  South Slopes  Snowy! Coming off Gray‘s I had a few drifted spots that were over my knees. Microspikes helped a lot. It was melting fast, and probably won‘t hold, but wet and slushy. Bring Gaiters and spikes just in case. Blue6String   2014-09-06  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-01  Kelso Ridge  Climbed Kelso Ridge on 1 September. Despite the frothing crowds both at the trailhead and along the standard route to Grays/Torreys, the Kelso Ridge probably saw no more than 10 people all day. Although the ridge looked snow free from below, the North aspects above 13,500 held some snow. Whereas the route description stated that many of the ridge difficulties could be bypassed on the right (North), the snow forced us to stay ridge proper, or traverse dicey ledges on the south side of the ridge. The knife‘s edge was snow free, but the white rock held enough snow on the ledge system to force us up and over it. This adds measurable difficulty to this feature of the ridge. Overall, awesome time on an airy ridge. Thanks to member Doggler and his fearless son for leading towards the top of the route! emiller6   2014-09-02 3     Edit Delete 
2014-07-14  Dead Dog Couloir  I will second what AlexeyD said. It is covered from top to bottom with lots of runnels. We started about 630am and it was soft but manageable. Earlier would be better though. bradyj   2014-07-14  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-12  Dead Dog Couloir  Dead Dog still has top-to-bottom coverage, right up to Kelso Ridge. Definitely getting very runneled, with lots of rock debris lower down. Easy exit with no cornice and angle of no more than 45 degrees if you stay to the right near the rock. Get an EARLY start (6:45 am at the base felt too late, we only lucked out because a cloud bank kept the couloir from going into full sun for most of the climb). Still probably has a good couple weeks left...a great way to avoid the conga line on Grays/Torreys (including Kelso Ridge, which saw a good amount of traffic that day). Probably not good for skiing at this point due to the rubble and runnels, but if you like snow climbs, get it while you can! AlexeyD   2014-07-14  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-12  Kelso Ridge  Conditions are great. The entire ridge is dry. The only snow patch is right after the white tower for about 30 feet. Easy to cross, no spikes needed. A pic is attached showing the snow. HarknessHooligans   2014-07-13 1     Edit Delete 
2014-07-11  Dead Dog Couloir  Climbed Dead Dog on Friday the 11th. The snow was very soft even just after sunrise since there was not a solid freeze. It made for slow going as necessary to kick steps and frontpoint up most of the way. When trying to kick a flat foot to rest the snow would just blow out. Bring your axe and sink it to the head in case you lose your footing. jimmtman   2014-07-13 1     Edit Delete 
2014-07-05  Kelso Ridge  There was a pretty good thunderstorm that came through on Friday night which deposited some hail on the route which mostly melted and made some sections a bit slippery. After the white rock there is still some snow cover. Dead dog is still very much in and may be in for up to another week or two. Mike Shepherd   2014-07-06 1     Edit Delete 
2014-07-04  Kelso Ridge  Climbed the ridge route today. The snow is almost completely gone... one cornice that could make you do some extra scrambling for a bit if you go the wrong way. Dead Dog Couloir still has a good bit of snow (there were some people skiing it). A little bit before the knife edge, the normal route is covered with steep snow, so you have to keep climbing basically on the ridge crest (nothing too hard though). Great climb! requist4   2014-07-04  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-29  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  The conditions at this point are close to true to the route description. The trail was difficult to find heading down Grizzly Peak and going up Torreys Peak. I found the trail more easily coming down Torreys. The intense wind made the last half quarter of the hike miserable. Several people said that Loveland Pass is often incredibly windy. Hike to Torreys took 4 hours and the return took 3 hours. Tough hike. nlee13   2014-06-30  0     Edit Delete 

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