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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-06-22||Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Info: Not a great freeze but still in good climbing condition. A couple runnels up to 4 ft deep.
|2016-06-19||Route: Emperor Couloir
Info: Consider this route done for the season. Much of the bottom half of the route was in quite good shape. But there's a rotten patch between 12,800 and 13,400 ft - 6 to 12 inches of unconsolidated snow on top of muddy scree and choss. My party (and one other) muddled through and managed to summit, but I'd bet this patch will be melted out completely in a few days.
|2016-06-18||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Kelso Ridge is mostly free of snow. Didn't start to hit snow until 3/4 way up the ridge and most of it was to climbers left and avoidable to the right. Hit unavoidable snow before the knife edge (photo #1), bullet proof at 9 am. There was a well worn path. Cake with spikes, but not really 100% necessary. Snow after the knife edge. Again, spikes were nice, but not necessary (Photo #2).
|2016-06-17||Route: West Ridge
Info: Nobody else on the route today until the top of Torreys. Gorgeous day. Not a cloud in sight until about 10am. A little breezy, but not bad. Not at all cold either. Summited Grays also. The route is in very good shape. Only a handful of short snow crossings. However, the snow covers the trail for about 100 yards coming down Cupid. The snow is completely avoidable but some scrambling is required. With a good eye for route finding, this won't exceed easy Class 2. This is the only place where snow impacts the route and it lasts for only 100 yards. Snow does cover a good bit of the trail coming down Grizzly, but smaller trails can be found through the talus to avoid the snow. No traction or flotation needed. This is a beast of a route.
|2016-06-17||Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Info: Dead Dog is still in but might not last a whole lot longer. I started up the couloir @ 6AM, topped out @ 8AM and towards the end, I was wishing I'd started an hour earlier as the snow was starting to get pretty soft and slippery. I was glad I had two tools. For me, 5 or 5:30 would have been perfect. Faster climbers (which are most people compared to me!) can probably start a little later. Big runnel in the top narrow section. Did not see anyone skiing the couloir but it appeared to me that someone did yesterday.
|2016-06-16||Route: Emperor Couloir
Info: Had to down climb to the main couloir since there was a small strip of snow that was very rocky. Dropped in around 11:00 / 11:15. Was very windy on the ridge which kept the snow firm at the top and then corn below. Good coverage throughout.
|2016-06-14||Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Info: Ascended dead dog this morning and got back in time for work. Stepped off from summer TH at 0502. At the apron just before 0600. Crampon trouble delayed our start til 0620. Summit 0755. Snow conditions were stellar after last night's freeze--a little too hard to put in a booter of our own, but icy enough to get a stout bite with our crampons and axes. Saw one skiier rocking some jump turns down the upper third of the couloir before the snow warmed up--nice work dude! Otherwise, not sure if someone was on Kelso ridge this morning but it was raining rocks for a 30 min period during our ascent. Snow continuous to summit (see pic 1), although a wee bit sugary and postholey on the left branch (pic 2). The finish, however, was frozen, steep, and pristine. Glissaded from just below the grays/torreys saddle and made it back to the car well before 10.
|2016-06-11||Route: Emperor Couloir
Info: Climbed up Dead Dog and descended Emperor. Dead Dog looks like the aftermath of a bunch of Uruk-Hai warriors after too much Casa Bonita. But its an expedient way to ascend Torrey's with numerous booters. Emperor skied well, but its days are numbered. Off the top is getting bony, it'll be completely melted in a day or 2. Entrance into Emperor proper requires some billy-goating. Dropped in around 8:45am and set off some sloughs up top. There are rocks starting to expose themselves throughout, but navigable. I'd be really surprised if this line is in by next weekend.
|2016-06-11||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: The ridge is 99% dry. Descending standard trail and through the valley very sloppy as per other recent conditions reports.
|2016-06-10||Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Info: On the apron at 5:45am, and even with warm nighttime temps, still found good booting snow in Dead Dog. Lots of runnels for skiers. Get it early for the most enjoyable day. Road clear to summer TH.
|2016-06-09||Route: Emperor Couloir
Info: Emperor's is still skiing great, maybe the last line in the state right now where you can ski 3000' directly from the summit. Snow goes down continuously to almost the creek, get it while it's good though because a couple narrow sections up high won't last long. Dead Dog looked a little runneled out but is still in as well.
|2016-06-07||Route: South Slopes
Info: Standard Route: same as Grays, intermittent snow from trailhead until the kelso ridge turn-off. Snow continuous from there. No snowshoes required yesterday with a 6am start, spikes optional. Snowshoes highly recommended/required on the descent, especially in the willows because the snow that you have to navigate is deep and gets soft quick. Watch for not walking to close to the cornice above South Paw on the ridge Emperor: filled in completely, same with Tuning fork. Creek in Grizzly gulch is raging, wouldn't recommend climbing either route just to avoid getting wet early in the day, but they are good for skiing. Dead dog: snow did not look inviting for a ski but the people who climbed it said it was good for that at least. East face direct looks good up until the lower cliff band where you can traverse into the bottom of Dead dog.
|2016-06-03||Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Info: Climbed my first two 14ers on Friday. Went up Dead Dog Couloir to the summit of Torreys and then traversed over to Grays and descended on the obvious route down Grays. The road to the summer TH is in decent shape. If you have 4wd or high enough clearance, you should be able to make it to within a half mile of the summer TH as this is where to road was snow covered. The trail to the base of Grays and Torreys was in decent shape in the morning. I reached the summer TH around 7:30 am. The snow was hard enough that I did not need snowshoes in the morning and didn't post hole at all. Dead Dog is in good shape - firm snow that was good for kicking steps into. I did meet one couple at the base that had down climbed with their skis because they said it was too choppy. I'm glad I had my crampons, ice axe, and helmet as they were a necessity for this route. I reached the summit of Torreys around 11:30 am, sat for a while and then traversed over to Grays. I started the descent from Grays at 12:30 pm and the snow at higher elevations was still in good shape. I had a couple decent glissades and was back to the flatter approach area. This is where the snow shoes came in handy. The snow on the approach had become extremely soft and while snow shoes weren't a necessity, I was glad that I didn't have to post hole through a mile and a half of wet snow. Made it down the dirt road and was back to my car at 3:30 pm.
|2016-05-24||Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Info: Photo from Coon Hill. Looks filled in all the way to the top!
|2016-05-12||Route: Emperor Couloir
Info: Weather was absolutely perfect and snow conditions were great too. Still tons of snow covering the peaks, much to no one's surprise. Ascent was slowed by the snow depth, often reaching knee deep (I'm 6'4") in the couloir. However, this made for a fun descent of the East Slopes where my party was rewarded with a 45 second glissade down much of the mountain. I fully recommend taking the chute we left if its hanging around before the snow completely covers it in the coming days. No major cornices on the couloir itself, but the G&T saddle was guarded by a sizable cornice which forced us 3 minutes up Gray's to avoid. Road appears driveable from I-70, but don't trust your eyes. No car will make it past the snow still packed on the road-- and we saw plenty of failed attempts. Minor landslides landed a few large rocks on the road as well slightly above the Grizzly turnoff.
|2016-05-10||Route: South Slopes
Info: Made it about 100 yards past rt70 parking lot and impassable, 2 feet drifts. 4x4 xterra was going nowhere.
|2016-04-24||Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Info: Fantastic snow to climb but not ski. Great kick stepping. Recent avy debris throughout the line which comforted me.
|2016-04-08||Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Info: Seen from the summit of Cupid today.
|2016-03-12||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: A few tips: 1. Don't try to drive up the road, some recent carnage is apparent from two people that tried. They failed miserably. 2. There's very little snow. I brought snowshoes (as did everyone in our group of 4) and none of us ever even thought of using them. I will say if it warms up a lot, you may want them, but on a day like today... not so much. 3. Kelso Ridge is mixed dry rock, icy spots, and bulletproof snow. One of us was in crampons for the ridge, the other 3 of us just used Microspikes.
|2016-03-11||Route: West Ridge
Info: I went up the route with two other climbers. We started at 6:30am, summited Torreys a little after 1:00pm, and got back to Loveland Pass at 7:30pm. Conditions were mostly spring like and windblown. We didn't carry snowshoes, and they weren't needed. The snow that was on the trail was thin and could be easily kick-stepped on the steeper aspects. I slipped at the bottom of the ridge on the return ascent of Grizzly, and we put on our microspikes immediately but took them off after reaching the summit. We all had poles, but I would have felt more secure with an ice ax for that ridge. That one ridge is still heavily snow packed. We put on our headlamps after watching the sunset, and hiking in the dark was not a problem. It was a great time to hike the ridge because lightening storms aren't an issue, so we could comfortably spend the whole day on the ridge and take in some awesome views.