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Torreys Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-09-27  South Slopes  Convinced my husband to return based on a couple reports that rode had been repaired over the summer. Be ware, it is still horrific and we didn‘t notice any improvements from June. We scraped the bottom of our AWD SUV twice despite very hard efforts to avoid this. Some car smashed open their oil tank and it had leaked all over the rode. Cars park along the side of the rode and force you into the rocky boulders. brooked   2014-09-27  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-13  Kelso Ridge  route is pretty much dry until you get to 13800‘, then there is some snow/ice on the north (right) side of the ridge. I managed with no traction or axe, but I had to be careful. We went right over the white rock fin after the knife edge, instead of skirting it to the right like usual. The final slope is snowy as well. I‘d think with a few days of sunshine it will melt. SolarAlex   2014-09-13  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-10  Kelso Ridge  There was a light dusting of snow on portions of the route until about 13,350 ft where the snow became about 1-2 ft deep (all on the north side of the ridge). We were forced to turn around and descend back down the Kelso Ridge immediately after crossing the knife edge due to winter conditions that we deemed impassible without the proper gear/training (see Photo #36 in the route description for this area). Bummer seeing as how we were only about 200 feet below the summit. Would not recommend the upper portion of this route to anyone without winter gear/training. Ben D   2014-09-10  0  1  Edit Delete 
2014-09-05  South Slopes  Snowy! Coming off Gray‘s I had a few drifted spots that were over my knees. Microspikes helped a lot. It was melting fast, and probably won‘t hold, but wet and slushy. Bring Gaiters and spikes just in case. Blue6String   2014-09-06  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-01  Kelso Ridge  Climbed Kelso Ridge on 1 September. Despite the frothing crowds both at the trailhead and along the standard route to Grays/Torreys, the Kelso Ridge probably saw no more than 10 people all day. Although the ridge looked snow free from below, the North aspects above 13,500 held some snow. Whereas the route description stated that many of the ridge difficulties could be bypassed on the right (North), the snow forced us to stay ridge proper, or traverse dicey ledges on the south side of the ridge. The knife‘s edge was snow free, but the white rock held enough snow on the ledge system to force us up and over it. This adds measurable difficulty to this feature of the ridge. Overall, awesome time on an airy ridge. Thanks to 14ers.com member Doggler and his fearless son for leading towards the top of the route! emiller6   2014-09-02 3     Edit Delete 
2014-07-14  Dead Dog Couloir  I will second what AlexeyD said. It is covered from top to bottom with lots of runnels. We started about 630am and it was soft but manageable. Earlier would be better though. bradyj   2014-07-14  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-12  Dead Dog Couloir  Dead Dog still has top-to-bottom coverage, right up to Kelso Ridge. Definitely getting very runneled, with lots of rock debris lower down. Easy exit with no cornice and angle of no more than 45 degrees if you stay to the right near the rock. Get an EARLY start (6:45 am at the base felt too late, we only lucked out because a cloud bank kept the couloir from going into full sun for most of the climb). Still probably has a good couple weeks left...a great way to avoid the conga line on Grays/Torreys (including Kelso Ridge, which saw a good amount of traffic that day). Probably not good for skiing at this point due to the rubble and runnels, but if you like snow climbs, get it while you can! AlexeyD   2014-07-14  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-12  Kelso Ridge  Conditions are great. The entire ridge is dry. The only snow patch is right after the white tower for about 30 feet. Easy to cross, no spikes needed. A pic is attached showing the snow. HarknessHooligans   2014-07-13 1     Edit Delete 
2014-07-11  Dead Dog Couloir  Climbed Dead Dog on Friday the 11th. The snow was very soft even just after sunrise since there was not a solid freeze. It made for slow going as necessary to kick steps and frontpoint up most of the way. When trying to kick a flat foot to rest the snow would just blow out. Bring your axe and sink it to the head in case you lose your footing. jimmtman   2014-07-13 1     Edit Delete 
2014-07-05  Kelso Ridge  There was a pretty good thunderstorm that came through on Friday night which deposited some hail on the route which mostly melted and made some sections a bit slippery. After the white rock there is still some snow cover. Dead dog is still very much in and may be in for up to another week or two. Mike Shepherd   2014-07-06 1     Edit Delete 
2014-07-04  Kelso Ridge  Climbed the ridge route today. The snow is almost completely gone... one cornice that could make you do some extra scrambling for a bit if you go the wrong way. Dead Dog Couloir still has a good bit of snow (there were some people skiing it). A little bit before the knife edge, the normal route is covered with steep snow, so you have to keep climbing basically on the ridge crest (nothing too hard though). Great climb! requist4   2014-07-04  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-29  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  The conditions at this point are close to true to the route description. The trail was difficult to find heading down Grizzly Peak and going up Torreys Peak. I found the trail more easily coming down Torreys. The intense wind made the last half quarter of the hike miserable. Several people said that Loveland Pass is often incredibly windy. Hike to Torreys took 4 hours and the return took 3 hours. Tough hike. nlee13   2014-06-30  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-27  Kelso Ridge  Did the Kelso Ridge on 6/27. Dry conditions most of the way. Only unavoidable snow is right after the knife edge to the summit. Negotiated with poles. Great climb! codogg81   2014-06-28 2  2    Edit Delete 
2014-06-22  Dead Dog Couloir  On the hike in we noticed the Lost Rat couloir was starting to melt out at the top and had exposed a short section of scree to negotiate. From our camp near the apron we started up at 4:30am and summited at 7:15am. Dead Dog is still packed with snow, the only area where it is melting out some is on the apron. The apron and bottom half of the couloir are full of runnels which taper out toward the top. Snow early in the morning was bulletproof; self arrest is not a reasonable possibility in those conditions. The spike of the ax would not penetrate the snow much, so I used a dagger technique most of the way which was more secure. Avoid the traverse and descent down the east face of Grays if you have climbed it before. The hordes began appearing en masse on the east slopes around 8am. We had a pretty cloudy early morning so the snow never softened while we were on the route, otherwise we would have glissaded down the low part of the traverse to the bottom. Mike Shepherd   2014-06-23 4  3    Edit Delete 
2014-06-20  South Slopes  Grays and Torreys via the normal route as a night hike. Lots of snow on the way up past the kiosk at 12,100 feet. Snow was very slick coming down off the saddle on the decent and microspikes were a necessity and even then I would have felt more comfortable with an ice axe for an extra level of security. Heard lots of runoff on the way up and can‘t imagine the snow will stick around for that much longer. mlunger12   2014-06-21  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-17  Dead Dog Couloir  As of today conditions on Dead Dog are great for climbing. Two things I noted... - We started early and were at the top of the couloir by 6:25am. The snow showed zero signs of turning to mush by the top but a warm day or later start would likely change that. - The snow was very hard. This was excellent for cramponing, but kicking steps was impossible throughout the climb and axe placements were always less than an inch deep. I would imagine that arresting a fall would be extremely unlikely unless you wait for the snow to soften, but then it would probably be mush by the top. Brian C   2014-06-17 5  4    Edit Delete 
2014-06-15  Kelso Ridge  The ridge was clear of snow at the saddle between Torreys and Kelso Mountain, some small patches starting before 13,000ft. Most of these could be avoided, but we found lots of loose rocks in the sections where we had to climb around the snow. Snow patches steadily increasing in size and frequency above 13,000ft, so microspikes and ice axes were helpful. The Knife‘s Edge has a boot-packed trail to the left going up the ridge (picture attached), but I wouldn‘t trust the stability of that snow with warming temperatures. The final summit was firm snow and made for an easy summit around 9:30am. alioren   2014-06-17 2     Edit Delete 
2014-06-12  Dead Dog Couloir  Road to TH is a bit rough but passable for most vehicles. Started up the couloir at 615, wish I would have been 30-45 mins earlier. Snow is in good condition, but the rocks were a flyin‘ once the sun hit. Get it early! The knife edge on Kelso Ridge was walkable with a bootpack across it. jblyth   2014-06-12 3  9    Edit Delete 
2014-06-08  Dead Dog Couloir  Started around 4:15am. Base of line hour or so later. Some pretty good front pointing but even around 6:30 the top out was softening up. Good runnel down the middle to hop in and out of for nice cramponing. Avy debris nonsense in apron kind of sucked. Overall, pretty good. FireOnTheMountain   2014-06-08 3  1  Edit Delete 
2014-06-01  Emperor Couloir  The Emporer is continuous snow all the way to the valley floor. A large avalanche wiped out most of the trees below the apron, presumable this past winter. We didn‘t get a hard freeze the night before, but the snow held up fairly well. There was evidence of several recent wet slides in the bottom half of the couloir. Luckily the couloir doesn‘t get full sun hit real early, but I wouldn‘t want to be in the couloir later than noon. It is a LONG climb! Here is my You Tube photo montage of the climb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93l0-z31NL8 Kevin Baker   2014-06-02  0  1  Edit Delete 

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