Buying Gear?  Click Here
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
Torreys Peak  
Report
Click to Expand   
Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-05-20  Emperor Couloir  Ascended Torreys via the standard route (South Slopes) and descended via the Emperor Couloir. Road was easily passable with 4wd up to the Stevens Gulch/Grizzly Gulch fork. Large snowdrifts on both roads immediately after fork. Intermittent snow on the Stevens Gulch road for the first mile after the fork. Continuous snow for the second mile up to the summer trailhead. We were able to skin from the summer trailhead up to the Grays/Torreys saddle, with the exception of a few steep sections where a good boot pack trail exists. Followed the boot pack trail up to Torreys summit. Did not use any traction devices, but there were a couple slick spots low on the saddle where it would have been nice to have some extra traction. Image #2 is looking up the saddle towards Torreys. Image #3 is looking back on Grays. We had planned to descend Dead Dog, but upon seeing all of the loose wet slide debris (see image #1), we chose the Emperor Couloir for a more northerly aspect. We were able to ski from the summit thanks to continuous snow into the couloir. Snow on the descent was starting to soften at 11:00am, making for good skiing conditions. Image #4 is looking back up the couloir. Able to ski almost back to the fork, with the exception of a couple stream crossings and short dirt sections. Lost: My gray and blue North Face softshell came unstrapped from my pack somewhere between the base of the couloir and the fork (see my post in the Lost and Found forum). If anyone is headed up this route and wouldn‘t mind keeping an eye out for it, I‘d really appreciate it. TJ Knecht   2014-05-22 4     Edit Delete 
2014-05-18  Kelso Ridge  Attempted to summit via Kelso, with no success. Maybe we were too late in the day, everything was melting and wet which lead to insanely unstable footing and holds. Spikes and snow shoes were both useless. I regularly solo 5.4 so I normally feel pretty competent on this sort of thing, but this ridge was way too sloppy for ability to even matter in my opinion. Decided to turn back after a massive washing machine sized rock was dislodged and narrowly missed my partner‘s legs before exploding just below him. I‘d recommend not doing this route unless your feeling really lucky. cordisimo   2014-05-19  0     Edit Delete 
2014-05-18  Dead Dog Couloir  Hot, hot, hot. Climbed up dead dog, and skiied down Tuning Forks. The majority of dead dog has shed most of the snow from the last snow cycle and the remnants now cover the majority of its apron. Above the apron its still pretty smooth with the occasional deeper runnel here and there. Started to see loose wet slides on and near dead dog by about 10am, so get an EARLY start. Lower part of the road has now melted out enough to make it up to the Grizzly Gulch intersection in a 4wd/awd vehicle - but your results may vary! AndyJB444   2014-05-19 2  2    Edit Delete 
2014-04-24  Northwest Face aka "Tuning Fork"  Took what was essentially the standard route up and snowboarded the north side down. The east side was looking good. GO GET IT! 13ers   2014-04-25 1     Edit Delete 
2014-03-14  Kelso Ridge  We parked at the winter TH and were able to skin all the way from there to the base of the Torreys/Kelso Mtn saddle. From there we bootpacked up Kelso ridge and skied down the Grays/Torreys saddle. Lots of snow on Kelso Ridge still, and some tricky scrambling (class 4 in spots) required to avoid a couple of deep snow gullies. We briefly considered skiing down dead dog or tuning fork, but took the safer option and just skied the saddle. Skiing conditions weren‘t that great; there was a wind crust layer that we punched through all the way down into the basin. Ice axe/crampons are probably a good idea for Kelso, and skis/snowshoes definitely still required for the approach. sstratta   2014-03-15 4     Edit Delete 
2013-11-15  Kelso Ridge  Ridge had more snow near the summit but clearish down low. Climbed in leather boots with no traction or ice axe. Alan Arnette   2013-11-15 4     Edit Delete 
2013-10-26  South Slopes  Awesome conditions, micro spikes or crampons and gaiters are your friend. Ice lower on the trail, and 2-3ft drifts up top. Boarded down a North facing coulior from the south slopes about 1000ft of rideable snow, nice power. 1st pic is on Torreys looking at grays, 2nd pic is the line i took and where i stopped. wisedog1   2013-10-27 2     Edit Delete 
2013-09-30  South Slopes  Torrey‘s has a decent dusting of snow already. Plenty of packed snow/ice to navigate around as you hike the path up, with plenty of cornices forming, should you stray far right of the path. (HINT: DON‘T!). Better bring some trekking poles, or a good pair of Micro Spikes! We had 20 mph winds buffeting us all the way to the summit. Otherwise a beautiful, beautiful day! BernieBing   2013-10-02 2     Edit Delete 
2013-09-30  Kelso Ridge  Torrey‘s has a decent dusting of snow already. Kelso Ridge especially is too risky to attempt without an ice axe, crampons, etc. There was at least a foot of snow on many places along the ridge, as well as approx. 18" of snow on the summit. We summited via the South Slopes route. Plenty of packed snow/ice to navigate around. Better bring some trekking poles, or a good pair of Micro Spikes! BernieBing   2013-10-02  0     Edit Delete 
2013-09-20  Kelso Ridge  Completely dry untill the last push past the knife edge/white rocks. Was snowing over Berthold Pass when I left town yesterday 9/23 though so not sure if that impacted the Greys/Torreys area. Rambler   2013-09-24  0     Edit Delete 
2013-09-18  Kelso Ridge  Dry jamin1377   2013-09-18  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-18  Kelso Ridge  Summer conditions. IkeB   2013-08-18  0     Edit Delete 
2013-07-04  Kelso Ridge  Only about 20‘ of snow left at the top, steps are kicked in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpkDD1crFWo&feature=player_embedded winmag4582001   2013-07-04 1  2 1  Edit Delete 
2013-06-29  South Slopes  The traverse southwest to reach the Grays-Torreys saddle from the Grays route (not the traverse from Grays summit) still requires a small, exposed, snow/ice field crossing. A fall from said traverse would likely be a self termination event without an equipped agressive self arrest. Short path and "snow" was ice at 0600. Mentioning only as a summer point of caution. A spring/fall/winter effort on similar terrain would likely have an individual carrying an ice axe, and wearing crampons. Avoidable by taking or returning via the Grays summit approach. No Malarkey   2013-06-29  0     Edit Delete 
2013-06-27  Kelso Ridge  Kelso ridge is completely dry until the knife-edge. At the buttress before the knife-edge I stayed left only to encounter steep snow at the top of dead dog couloir. I did not have an ice axe so avoided this steep climb as any fall would be trouble. Instead I skirted the buttress on the right (north) side. This side requires some exposed class 3 moves and then a scramble up loose rock but was entirely free of snow. After regaining the ridge I crossed the knife edge and encountered another 20 yard snow field. This has steps kicked into it and did not require traction or an ice ax. Overall a great climb. Picture one is looking back at the knife edge. Picture two is the view of kelso ridge from the east. jenkscolin   2013-06-28 2  1    Edit Delete 
2013-06-23  Kelso Ridge  Kelso ridge is almost entirely dry except for a short couloir crossing right before the knife edge/Dead Dog (10 yards). It is fairly steep, so I kicked footholds and self-belayed with the ice axe. I couldn‘t imagine not using an axe as a slip would likely be fatal. You might be able to find a dry workaround by sticking to the ridge proper, but I can‘t vouch for that. There is also a little snow right after the knife edge, but it is not steep, and there is a boot track heading up - had the axe out for that but didn‘t really need it. (ETA: just read the PC Reports below...maybe there is an easier way to get across the couloir either by sticking to the ridge or going around to the right instead of the left). leggaj5   2013-06-24  0  1 1    
2013-06-22  Kelso Ridge  The Kelso ridge is pretty much free of snow all the way to the knife edge. The only large patches of snow lie above the tower of white rock, and there are steps in them (no need for traction devices). The first pic shows the knife edge and white rocks; the second one shows the patches of snow above the white rocks (notice the tracks in them). With the latest warm temperatures, the snow will be gone pretty soon. esagas   2013-06-23 2  1    Edit Delete 
2013-06-22  Kelso Ridge  Kelso Ridge is dry all the way up to knife edge. A cornice and lingering snow up there limits the exposure to about 3 feet so the pictures don‘t look as macho. Firm snow with bootpacked steps past the white rocks up to and on Torreys summit. Snow on standard trails up around 13000 ft for Grays and Torreys. Great glissading conditions down the bowl from the saddle. Looks skiable but snow is getting thin. Dead Dog Couloir looks to be melting out fast - upper 1/3 looks ok, the rest seems to be melting out. Other couloirs looked thicker. cougar   2013-06-22 4     Edit Delete 
2013-06-20  Dead Dog Couloir  Talked to two guys who climbed and skied down Dead Dog, as we hiked back together to the TH. In their words: Started at 9, peaked at 11, soft snow, the top was in solid shape but the middle was horrible, rocks exposed every three feet or so, bottom had enough coverage to make it all the way to the base. Scotzman   2013-06-21  0     Edit Delete 
2013-06-15  Northwest Face aka "Tuning Fork"  Tuning fork is still in. 10-15 people ripped it on Saturday. I think that it has a couple weeks left in it, but the gap between the car and where the snow ends will widen everyday. Stamper2773   2013-06-17 1     Edit Delete 

Return to the main Peak Conditions page

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.