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Torreys Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-06-27  Kelso Ridge  Did the Kelso Ridge on 6/27. Dry conditions most of the way. Only unavoidable snow is right after the knife edge to the summit. Negotiated with poles. Great climb! codogg81   2014-06-28 2  2    Edit Delete 
2014-06-22  Dead Dog Couloir  On the hike in we noticed the Lost Rat couloir was starting to melt out at the top and had exposed a short section of scree to negotiate. From our camp near the apron we started up at 4:30am and summited at 7:15am. Dead Dog is still packed with snow, the only area where it is melting out some is on the apron. The apron and bottom half of the couloir are full of runnels which taper out toward the top. Snow early in the morning was bulletproof; self arrest is not a reasonable possibility in those conditions. The spike of the ax would not penetrate the snow much, so I used a dagger technique most of the way which was more secure. Avoid the traverse and descent down the east face of Grays if you have climbed it before. The hordes began appearing en masse on the east slopes around 8am. We had a pretty cloudy early morning so the snow never softened while we were on the route, otherwise we would have glissaded down the low part of the traverse to the bottom. Mike Shepherd   2014-06-23 4  3    Edit Delete 
2014-06-20  South Slopes  Grays and Torreys via the normal route as a night hike. Lots of snow on the way up past the kiosk at 12,100 feet. Snow was very slick coming down off the saddle on the decent and microspikes were a necessity and even then I would have felt more comfortable with an ice axe for an extra level of security. Heard lots of runoff on the way up and can‘t imagine the snow will stick around for that much longer. mlunger12   2014-06-21  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-17  Dead Dog Couloir  As of today conditions on Dead Dog are great for climbing. Two things I noted... - We started early and were at the top of the couloir by 6:25am. The snow showed zero signs of turning to mush by the top but a warm day or later start would likely change that. - The snow was very hard. This was excellent for cramponing, but kicking steps was impossible throughout the climb and axe placements were always less than an inch deep. I would imagine that arresting a fall would be extremely unlikely unless you wait for the snow to soften, but then it would probably be mush by the top. Brian C   2014-06-17 5  4    Edit Delete 
2014-06-15  Kelso Ridge  The ridge was clear of snow at the saddle between Torreys and Kelso Mountain, some small patches starting before 13,000ft. Most of these could be avoided, but we found lots of loose rocks in the sections where we had to climb around the snow. Snow patches steadily increasing in size and frequency above 13,000ft, so microspikes and ice axes were helpful. The Knife‘s Edge has a boot-packed trail to the left going up the ridge (picture attached), but I wouldn‘t trust the stability of that snow with warming temperatures. The final summit was firm snow and made for an easy summit around 9:30am. alioren   2014-06-17 2     Edit Delete 
2014-06-12  Dead Dog Couloir  Road to TH is a bit rough but passable for most vehicles. Started up the couloir at 615, wish I would have been 30-45 mins earlier. Snow is in good condition, but the rocks were a flyin‘ once the sun hit. Get it early! The knife edge on Kelso Ridge was walkable with a bootpack across it. jblyth   2014-06-12 3  9    Edit Delete 
2014-06-08  Dead Dog Couloir  Started around 4:15am. Base of line hour or so later. Some pretty good front pointing but even around 6:30 the top out was softening up. Good runnel down the middle to hop in and out of for nice cramponing. Avy debris nonsense in apron kind of sucked. Overall, pretty good. FireOnTheMountain   2014-06-08 3  1  Edit Delete 
2014-06-01  Emperor Couloir  The Emporer is continuous snow all the way to the valley floor. A large avalanche wiped out most of the trees below the apron, presumable this past winter. We didn‘t get a hard freeze the night before, but the snow held up fairly well. There was evidence of several recent wet slides in the bottom half of the couloir. Luckily the couloir doesn‘t get full sun hit real early, but I wouldn‘t want to be in the couloir later than noon. It is a LONG climb! Here is my You Tube photo montage of the climb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93l0-z31NL8 Kevin Baker   2014-06-02  0  1  Edit Delete 
2014-05-24  Dead Dog Couloir  Dead Dog held out for us until we exited the couloir at about 10am. Above the couloir was mostly unconsolidated sugar crap. Didn‘t see any new wet slides while we were there and we had full view of it until about 12. No rain today while we were there though it looked like something was building around 2pm. Still holding a ton of snow. LivingOnTheEdge   2014-05-24  0     Edit Delete 
2014-05-20  Emperor Couloir  Ascended Torreys via the standard route (South Slopes) and descended via the Emperor Couloir. Road was easily passable with 4wd up to the Stevens Gulch/Grizzly Gulch fork. Large snowdrifts on both roads immediately after fork. Intermittent snow on the Stevens Gulch road for the first mile after the fork. Continuous snow for the second mile up to the summer trailhead. We were able to skin from the summer trailhead up to the Grays/Torreys saddle, with the exception of a few steep sections where a good boot pack trail exists. Followed the boot pack trail up to Torreys summit. Did not use any traction devices, but there were a couple slick spots low on the saddle where it would have been nice to have some extra traction. Image #2 is looking up the saddle towards Torreys. Image #3 is looking back on Grays. We had planned to descend Dead Dog, but upon seeing all of the loose wet slide debris (see image #1), we chose the Emperor Couloir for a more northerly aspect. We were able to ski from the summit thanks to continuous snow into the couloir. Snow on the descent was starting to soften at 11:00am, making for good skiing conditions. Image #4 is looking back up the couloir. Able to ski almost back to the fork, with the exception of a couple stream crossings and short dirt sections. Lost: My gray and blue North Face softshell came unstrapped from my pack somewhere between the base of the couloir and the fork (see my post in the Lost and Found forum). If anyone is headed up this route and wouldn‘t mind keeping an eye out for it, I‘d really appreciate it. TJ Knecht   2014-05-22 4     Edit Delete 
2014-05-18  Kelso Ridge  Attempted to summit via Kelso, with no success. Maybe we were too late in the day, everything was melting and wet which lead to insanely unstable footing and holds. Spikes and snow shoes were both useless. I regularly solo 5.4 so I normally feel pretty competent on this sort of thing, but this ridge was way too sloppy for ability to even matter in my opinion. Decided to turn back after a massive washing machine sized rock was dislodged and narrowly missed my partner‘s legs before exploding just below him. I‘d recommend not doing this route unless your feeling really lucky. cordisimo   2014-05-19  0     Edit Delete 
2014-05-18  Dead Dog Couloir  Hot, hot, hot. Climbed up dead dog, and skiied down Tuning Forks. The majority of dead dog has shed most of the snow from the last snow cycle and the remnants now cover the majority of its apron. Above the apron its still pretty smooth with the occasional deeper runnel here and there. Started to see loose wet slides on and near dead dog by about 10am, so get an EARLY start. Lower part of the road has now melted out enough to make it up to the Grizzly Gulch intersection in a 4wd/awd vehicle - but your results may vary! AndyJB444   2014-05-19 2  2    Edit Delete 
2014-04-24  Northwest Face "Tuning Fork"  Took what was essentially the standard route up and snowboarded the north side down. The east side was looking good. GO GET IT! 13ers   2014-04-25 1     Edit Delete 
2014-03-14  Kelso Ridge  We parked at the winter TH and were able to skin all the way from there to the base of the Torreys/Kelso Mtn saddle. From there we bootpacked up Kelso ridge and skied down the Grays/Torreys saddle. Lots of snow on Kelso Ridge still, and some tricky scrambling (class 4 in spots) required to avoid a couple of deep snow gullies. We briefly considered skiing down dead dog or tuning fork, but took the safer option and just skied the saddle. Skiing conditions weren‘t that great; there was a wind crust layer that we punched through all the way down into the basin. Ice axe/crampons are probably a good idea for Kelso, and skis/snowshoes definitely still required for the approach. sstratta   2014-03-15 4     Edit Delete 
2013-11-15  Kelso Ridge  Ridge had more snow near the summit but clearish down low. Climbed in leather boots with no traction or ice axe. Alan Arnette   2013-11-15 4     Edit Delete 
2013-10-26  South Slopes  Awesome conditions, micro spikes or crampons and gaiters are your friend. Ice lower on the trail, and 2-3ft drifts up top. Boarded down a North facing coulior from the south slopes about 1000ft of rideable snow, nice power. 1st pic is on Torreys looking at grays, 2nd pic is the line i took and where i stopped. wisedog1   2013-10-27 2     Edit Delete 
2013-09-30  South Slopes  Torrey‘s has a decent dusting of snow already. Plenty of packed snow/ice to navigate around as you hike the path up, with plenty of cornices forming, should you stray far right of the path. (HINT: DON‘T!). Better bring some trekking poles, or a good pair of Micro Spikes! We had 20 mph winds buffeting us all the way to the summit. Otherwise a beautiful, beautiful day! BernieBing   2013-10-02 2     Edit Delete 
2013-09-30  Kelso Ridge  Torrey‘s has a decent dusting of snow already. Kelso Ridge especially is too risky to attempt without an ice axe, crampons, etc. There was at least a foot of snow on many places along the ridge, as well as approx. 18" of snow on the summit. We summited via the South Slopes route. Plenty of packed snow/ice to navigate around. Better bring some trekking poles, or a good pair of Micro Spikes! BernieBing   2013-10-02  0     Edit Delete 
2013-09-20  Kelso Ridge  Completely dry untill the last push past the knife edge/white rocks. Was snowing over Berthold Pass when I left town yesterday 9/23 though so not sure if that impacted the Greys/Torreys area. Rambler   2013-09-24  0     Edit Delete 
2013-09-18  Kelso Ridge  Dry jamin1377   2013-09-18  0     Edit Delete 

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