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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-03-12||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: A few tips: 1. Don't try to drive up the road, some recent carnage is apparent from two people that tried. They failed miserably. 2. There's very little snow. I brought snowshoes (as did everyone in our group of 4) and none of us ever even thought of using them. I will say if it warms up a lot, you may want them, but on a day like today... not so much. 3. Kelso Ridge is mixed dry rock, icy spots, and bulletproof snow. One of us was in crampons for the ridge, the other 3 of us just used Microspikes.
|2016-03-11||Route: West Ridge
Info: I went up the route with two other climbers. We started at 6:30am, summited Torreys a little after 1:00pm, and got back to Loveland Pass at 7:30pm. Conditions were mostly spring like and windblown. We didn't carry snowshoes, and they weren't needed. The snow that was on the trail was thin and could be easily kick-stepped on the steeper aspects. I slipped at the bottom of the ridge on the return ascent of Grizzly, and we put on our microspikes immediately but took them off after reaching the summit. We all had poles, but I would have felt more secure with an ice ax for that ridge. That one ridge is still heavily snow packed. We put on our headlamps after watching the sunset, and hiking in the dark was not a problem. It was a great time to hike the ridge because lightening storms aren't an issue, so we could comfortably spend the whole day on the ridge and take in some awesome views.
|2016-02-27||Route: West Ridge
Info: Can anyone give conditions of Torrey's west ridge route from Loveland pass?
|2016-02-26||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Fantastic conditions at present. Spikes from the 1-70 to the summer trailhead and then snowshoes to the Kelso turnoff. My climbing partner actually went without traction until the upper half of Kelso. I had spikes all the way. The trip across to Grays and back down to the Kelso turnoff can all be done in spikes. We tried to use spikes back to the summer trailhead but found ourselves sinking in some and put the flotation back on...all the way down to 1-70. Not necessary in the hard pack snow at the bottom of Road 189, but we were sprinting to the finish.
|2016-02-25||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Conditions for both Grays and Torreys are excellent at the moment. It feels a bit like cheating. Today, I had to do modest trailbreaking from I-70 to the summer TH due to the recent dusting (~2-3 inches). The last mile to the summer trailhead required the most effort. It appears no one has been above that point since the weekend. Once above the summer TH, the trail is well packed with areas of snowdrift. Most of the new snow has blow away. Flotation is required but requires very little effort. Also, the current trail and snow conditions aptly avoids any avalanche danger presented by Kelso's SE slopes. Kelso Ridge appears to be in the same condition and Brad's recent trip report so look at those photos. I did not use crampons or an axe on the ridge although some folks would certainly want them. The trail descending off Grays is well boot packed (no flotation required) and you could certainly stash your flotation at the Kelso Ridge Junction. I did not use them but some people would like micro-spikes for the Grays trail.
|2016-02-13||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Climbed Kelso Ridge from I-70 this AM. Road is packed to summer TH. Took winter bypass to avoid Kelso avalanche slopes. From summer TH to 12k, wore snowshoes, but just a few places where the snow wasn‘t firm. We switched to crampons at the start of the ridge - a bit annoying down low, but as we got higher and higher, we were happy we were wearing them. Descended via the Grays/Torreys saddle - it is wind packed snow - we kept crampons on. Spikes would have been fine there too.
|2015-12-19||Route: West Ridge
Info: Yesterday, we set out to do Cupid and Grizzly from Loveland Pass. Having made good time to Grizzly, we decided to see how far we could get up Torreys before our cutoff time (~14k‘). We ditched our snowshoes on pt 12,915‘, and I‘m sort of questioning that decision--they would have saved us 30 min on the return ascent of the east ridge of grizzly (we plunge-stepped and butt-slid on the way to Torreys, but coming back was slow going). Otherwise, we did not use traction, although I think microspikes would have been helpful for the ascent out of the Grizzly-Torreys saddle up Torreys (mostly loose dirt, and I think the microspikes may have worked well as a cleat). We were happy to have our axes for the reascent of Grizzly, as we had to work the ridgeline with steady 60 mph crosswind pushing us towards the leeward steeps. Overall, the route is very windswept and probably 50-60% bare of snow.
|2015-11-14||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: The storm over Veteran‘s Day (10-11 NOV) left a fair amount of snow on the ridge as well as the rest of the mountain, making route finding (and hold finding) a little more difficult. An axe and micro spikes are really helpful, and there were a couple spots where I considered crampons. This next storm should make things really interesting on the ridge itself. I‘m little more than a novice mountaineer but, for what it‘s worth: around 14k some of the Class 3 (See Photos 28, 29 & 30) was buried and I found myself on more Class 4-type terrain. Speaking of interesting: all of us tried and no one without chains made it up the access road. This next storm should all but preclude driving to the summer trailhead. I skinned up to the ridge from the bottom and changed over to climbing mode. That worked out really nicely; the last 3.5 miles back takes less than 30 minutes. I found someone‘s Excalibur 9 Iron at about 13,700‘ in a gulley - if they want it back... Not kidding. It‘s hanging on the rocks.
|2015-11-08||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Road to the parking lot is well packed snow (no ice), I decided to not drive it but if you have snow tires, its actually probably in nicer condition than summer at the moment. Standard trail is also all packed out with minimal ice. Kelso ridge was generally easy going aside from the two more technical parts. The first class 3/4 felt okay despite soft snow. The second section crossing the knife-edge-ish thing I had to make a couple of moves that felt 5.4-5.6 in the wet conditions using the much thinner north side since the holds I normally use on the south side were covered in very unstable snow. If whoever it was I passed on near the top wants that picture in higher resolution, send me a message.
|2015-10-18||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: The ridge is still in good shape, with a few areas of snow that are easily avoidable. The short stretch from the knife edge to the top is the only part that has a considerable amounts of snow and microspikes are not a bad idea. I followed the descriptions on 14er and it overall it worked out fine, but I had to do some route finding, especially above the white wall and before the knife edge. A nice climb along a great ridge with good rock and not much loose stuff.
|2015-10-10||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Hiked Kelso Ridge this morning. Some spots have snow and ice, but they aren‘t too bad (not avoidable altogether, but it is not present on some the harder parts). I would recommend microspikes for part of it, especially the last ascent after the knife edge, where snow is completely unavoidable. We did it in just over 3 hours for the first time and didn‘t use any special equipment except helmets (would definitely recommend those). A very doable route condition with some intermittent small ice/snow spots that would be a lot easier with microspikes.
|2015-10-09||Route: Grays and Torreys
Info: Snowy on the way up to grays. It is a hard packed snow so it is more like ice. I‘d use microspikes cuz face planting on rocks is less than enjoyable. Very powdery snow up top on Gray‘s and incredibly windy and cold this morning. Made for a short stay there. Again snowy and icy heading down into the saddle. However, the route up to Torreys was clear and very pleasant. Summit had no wind, little snow, and was quite warm. Excellent views and a beautiful morning in the mountains! Total trip time was 4:54 including a partial trek up Kelso Ridge. **On a side note: My original goal was Kelso Ridge this morning. However, it is a sheet of ice and snow. I turned back about one-third of the way up**
|2015-10-03||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: There was a light dusting of snow overnight. Everything in the sun was dry, but on the right side of the ridge most of the rock was snow covered. At 13,000‘ (photo 14 in the Kelso Route description), the left side was in the shade, which necessitated climbing the much steeper right side on the white rock which was dry and in the sun. The rock is solid, though. The knife edge was pretty spicy with snow on the right side, which is where the good foot spots generally are. From Torreys down to the Grays saddle, it was in the sun and mostly snow free but very windy.
|2015-09-27||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: the ridge was in great shape in general. Two stretches of loose rock and dirt that need circumventing. Go up the solid rock on either side to save time and energy. It is NOT a route to descend (I think) The group that I crossed the knife‘s edge with had to convince a couple of people to turn around and descend the standard route
|2015-08-17||Route: South Slopes
Info: Clear and dry all the way to the top. We left early to catch a sunrise. Beautiful colors right now and clear skies, despite shite weather forecasts.
|2015-08-09||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Summit(s) in great shape; ridge in great shape; dirt road in great shape. I popped up on Sunday afternoon and was able to drive my Prius all the way to the upper lot. By that point the lot was mostly available. I started at approx 3:00 pm. I made it to the mine in ~40‘ from there up Torreys in ~70‘. The only part that gave me hesitation was the area leading to and across the upper white rock, but it‘s quite reasonable. Then ~25‘ to Grays and ~45‘ down.
|2015-07-29||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: No snow on the ridge, no wet spots. The ridge is ready for climbing! Loose rock all over the ridge, but I am sure that is nothing new. More info and pics can be found here: https://everythingoutdoorscolorado.wordpress.com/2015/07/30/kelso-ridge-torreys-peak/
|2015-07-25||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Dry the whole way up the ridge. Found a tiny patch of snow just below the knifes edge, but very easy to cross. Only other snow is a small patch high on the saddle between grays & torreys. Both summits are crowded as usual, and parking fills up very early.
|2015-07-18||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Of the two snowfields mentioned in the previous report, the first can (and probably should, as it‘s getting icy and dangerous) be avoided by simply staying high on the ridge to the right, and the second has melted out. The standard descent route still has about 50‘ of very trenched snow just below the G/T saddle; it‘s a tad slick, but the trench is so deep at this point that it would take a lot of effort to fall out of it. Otherwise, all routes and trails were free of snow and dry.
|2015-07-15||Route: Kelso Ridge
Info: Same snow fields as mentioned in reports from July 11th - the first one is just before Dead Dog comes into view, the second immediately after the white gendarm post-knife edge. I crossed these around 7am, and they were soft even that early in the day. I did not have trekking poles or microspikes, and I felt safe on the crossings.