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Torreys Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2013-06-14  Dead Dog Couloir  Started up the couloir around 7:00AM & topped out around 9:00AM. The route isn‘t beautiful (plenty of dirty snow) right now, but was still very enjoyable to climb. I would suggest a slightly earlier start to prevent soft snow. Dead Dog probably has a short life left. Get it while it‘s hot! joelsteidl   2013-06-15 4  2    Edit Delete 
2013-06-03  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  Peak is easily summitable without traction, flotation, or other aids (the standard "variable conditions" disclaimer that, if you‘re here reading this, you likely already know, et al, of course applies - and if a traction/axe makes ya comfortable, take it - it‘s not totally dry or clear, but with the right route finding, I find the conditions quite favorable to travel sans aids, YMMV, as always). Short version: runnable, but snowy past Griz (SE aspect of Griz + last 500 vert up Torrey‘s especially), but even at peak afternoon w/sun on a relatively warm day, snow was not a major impediment to quick travel (but see longer version for snow/pack safety comments). Got a late start (1230PM), but was running (or at least very fast hiking), and no weather appeared to threaten or build, but was quite windy. Melt had made some portions of trail moist, but nothing even close to a big deal in either discomfort, slowing travel, or making for trail abuse. For all practical intents and purposes, trail is clear of any appreciable snow until half way up Griz. Snow to this point is sporadic, shallow, and packed. Neither route finding was an issue nor traversing it in a pair of relatively light trail runners. Conditions were quite warm, but very windy, with occasional clouds, but enough sun had worked the snow on ascent of Griz to be relatively soft, but it‘s not really deep enough (at least consistently) to create any postholing. One or two knee-shots, but ankle deep at most and travel remained quite fast. Snow on W aspect of Torrey‘s was certainly there, but easily avoidable and/or stable/useful in the areas I felt comfortable traveling on the pack. Pack is not deep until the last 500-700 vertical, and quite well consolidated in terms of travel even late on this relatively warm day (didn‘t dig any pits to do REAL pack assessment . I noted that there were a few (not many, a few) tracks going straight down the fall line on the SE aspect of Griz. I did not, for my own purposes/risk acceptance, find that route of travel safe. Perhaps they are from different times of day/week/month in which that area was safe, but with the angle of the slope and the apparent conditions, the pack there seemed deep, steep, and scary enough that I wouldn‘t touch it. Cornices along the ridge to the NE of Griz were also looking ripe to pop, which made the safest travel along the narrow/knifedge ridge, which was actually pretty solid, IMHO. I felt safe in this area, mostly because terra firma was easily visible or just inches below with enough of a zone that the cornices to one side and slabs to the other did not worry me traveling that part, and the ridge was clear and safely delivered me to the saddle/base of Torreys (again, my own risk assessment based on my preferences and the conditions of the hour/minute). Travel up the trail/scree portions was easy/fast, with snow becoming prevalent around 13k, and quite consistent around 13.5k, and deep/full coverage around 13.8k. No particular slide worries, save for the normal wind loading/cornices ready to pop along the N side of the ridge to the summit. There is still a fair amount of snow out there at/past Griz, but as I mentioned, the ridge is easy traveling and flotation/traction/ice axes really aren‘t required and I couldn‘t see many situations where they would be even with some ridiculous melt/freeze cycles...Griz is currently the "crux" of the run/hike in the sense of it having the most snow and variable conditions. moltar   2013-06-03 4     Edit Delete 
2013-05-31  Emperor Couloir  After the last stream crossing at the beginning of the couloir, I immediately sunk into 2 feet of powder snow. Worried about avalanche conditions, I turned around there. The route is definitely not spring snow yet. brueck1988   2013-06-06  0     Edit Delete 
2013-05-25  Northwest Face aka "Tuning Fork"  Tuning Fork looks like it is still in pretty good condition. Pic from Pettingell Peak across I-70. tygrubb   2013-05-26 1     Edit Delete 
2013-05-22  Emperor Couloir  Here are two pics from I-70. BobbyFinn   2013-05-22 2  2    Edit Delete 
2013-04-07  Dead Dog Couloir  Winter conditions on Dead Dog. 8"+ of unconsolidated snow in numerous areas. Made it half way up the line before sizeable slough let go 20‘ above us. 2-3 weeks easily needed to lower avy conditions drastically especially with storm coming in tomorrow. Parked at the I-70 lot but 4 cars were able to drive higher (max perhaps 1.75 miles up the 3 mile road to the summer TH). Sorry my camera blows. FireOnTheMountain   2013-04-08 2  3    Edit Delete 
2013-04-06  Northwest Face aka "Tuning Fork"  Climbed Torreys last Sat with friend. Left camp at 11200‘ at 7am, summited at 2pm (must be lack of snow experience and acclimatization on my part - took longer then expected), back to camp at 5pm (had to downclimb snow above the fork to increase control until light headache was gone). We didn‘t see any snow instability and stayed on the East side (bad idea, didn‘t like scree at the top a bit, should have taken West side). Trail along Grizzly Gulch Rd was good but we had to use snowshoes on the last mile to the camp. vadim4o   2013-04-08 4     Edit Delete 
2013-03-08  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  Did not ascend but have included image taken from Grizzly Peak D on Friday March 8th (prior to latest round of snow). a94buff   2013-03-11 1     Edit Delete 
2013-03-02  Kelso Ridge  Summited Torrey‘s via the Kelso Ridge yesterday(Sat 3/2). Snowshoes not needed at the moment unless another huge storm comes in(you should be able to follow our path all the way up the turnoff for Kelso - at which case you could easily pick up the standard Gray‘s trail too) Crampons, or at least spikes, are needed on the ridge. We all carried and used our axes to cross multiple snow fields. Winds were the most influential factor to our decision making yesterday. Be safe and PM if you would like any current pictures forbins_mtn   2013-03-03  0     Edit Delete 
2013-02-19  Kelso Ridge  Today was awesome. Blue bird day. Drove a bit up the road and hiked to the TH. The trail is boot packed the entire way and no need for show shoes. I made my way up Kelso Ridge and then over to Grays. The conditions on Kelso were very favorable. I used crampons and wore a helmet. I did not need to take out my axe. The knife edge is pretty much a snow bridge that can be walked across. The trail is easy to follow over to Grays and on the descent. Photos are of the route, a Class 3 section, a Class 2 section and the "Knife Edge" I Man   2013-02-19 4  3 4  Edit Delete 
2012-12-30  South Slopes  We drove SUVs to the road fork at 10,250 and started here. It may be possible to drive higher, but no one has in a while. We brought snow shoes but never needed them and stashed them at 12,100 at the trail sign. Currently there is a snow packed trail that conforms to the summer trail and goes across two avy chutes below Kelso Mountain. We split off from the summer trail at around 11,950 and dropped down slightly onto a grassy bench and then bushwhacked through some willows until we regained the summer trail at 12,100. Kelso is starting to get wind loaded and further usage of the summer trail through this area is at your own peril. The rest of the trail to both the summit of Torreys and Grays was snow packed. No traction was used. sdkeil   2012-12-30  0     Edit Delete 
2012-10-06  South Slopes  Snow on the trail, especially above 12,500’. I used MicroSpikes and a pole. There were people without traction who did okay since the snow was mostly still fresh. They minded it more early in the day before the snow softened. There could be more ice in coming days. Traction recommended. MountainHiker   2012-10-06  0     Edit Delete 
2012-07-14  Kelso Ridge  The route was snow free and very easy to navigate. There is a bunch of loose scree at the top of some of the Class 3 portions, so be careful when following other climbers and be cautious of hand/foot holds. Don‘t want to hit anyone with falling rock! mgrundy   2012-07-19  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-23  Kelso Ridge  Completely snow free. forbins_mtn   2012-06-24  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-07  Kelso Ridge  There was almost no snow on the route, with the exception of a tiny field almost not worth mentioning (easily skirted) and a little bit near the summit surrounding the white rock. Some snow present in the gully‘s but was easily avoided. I brought spikes, but definitely were unnecessary! JA_son27   2012-06-08  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-03  Kelso Ridge  Climbed the Kelso Ridge solo starting at the trailhead at 0550. Found almost no snow on the route but then traversed to the south (climber‘s left) under the "Knife Edge" crux near the top into the Dead Dog Couloir and went straight up on soft snow that was easy to kick steps in at around 0830. Climbed with light hiking boots and trekking poles, crampons/instep crampons/microspikes would have been nice for the snow ascent. Summited in about 3 hours - and after swinging over to Grays Peak and then plunge stepping down the basin between the two mountains I was back at the car trailhead at 11:20. Met a gentlemen at the trailhead who climbed the entire Couloir just behind me and then skied it. He said the snow was great for skiing and he felt he timed his ascent/descent perfectly. Board Shorts   2012-06-08  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-26  Dead Dog Couloir  Was up on Saturday, started from the Trailhead around 6:00 AM. This was by far, too late in the day. By the time we got to the base of Dead Dog, the snow was softening up to the point that we were postholing sometimes up to our waste. As another conditions report stated, there were a lot of rock falling, making the climb dangerous. jpfeif001   2012-05-28  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-26  Dead Dog Couloir  Packed into base of coulior last night. No need for snow shoes. Lots of wind. Started climb at 5AM. Topped out at 7AM. Rock fall as soon as sun rose due to lack of a hard freeze. Hugged left edge the whole way to avoid rock fall. Snow continuous to summit. Snow consolidated almost in entirety; some long stretch of front pointing. Lots of smoke from NM fires and lots of wind on top (~50 mph). Good climb. coloradomojo   2012-05-26  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-21  Kelso Ridge  Continuous snow starts just before the crux. Microspikes helped but not mandatory. No need for ice axe if you are careful. Should melt out quick with the heat the next few days. hugemike   2012-05-22 4     Edit Delete 
2012-05-06  Dead Dog Couloir  Climbed Dead Dog today and descended from the Saddle, here‘s what the Dead Dog Coulouir looked like today~ schrund   2012-05-06 1  6    Edit Delete 

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