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Torreys Peak  
Report
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2013-05-22  Emperor Couloir  Here are two pics from I-70. BobbyFinn   2013-05-22 2  2    Edit Delete 
2013-04-07  Dead Dog Couloir  Winter conditions on Dead Dog. 8"+ of unconsolidated snow in numerous areas. Made it half way up the line before sizeable slough let go 20‘ above us. 2-3 weeks easily needed to lower avy conditions drastically especially with storm coming in tomorrow. Parked at the I-70 lot but 4 cars were able to drive higher (max perhaps 1.75 miles up the 3 mile road to the summer TH). Sorry my camera blows. FireOnTheMountain   2013-04-08 2  3    Edit Delete 
2013-04-06  Northwest Face aka "Tuning Fork"  Climbed Torreys last Sat with friend. Left camp at 11200‘ at 7am, summited at 2pm (must be lack of snow experience and acclimatization on my part - took longer then expected), back to camp at 5pm (had to downclimb snow above the fork to increase control until light headache was gone). We didn‘t see any snow instability and stayed on the East side (bad idea, didn‘t like scree at the top a bit, should have taken West side). Trail along Grizzly Gulch Rd was good but we had to use snowshoes on the last mile to the camp. vadim4o   2013-04-08 4     Edit Delete 
2013-03-08  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  Did not ascend but have included image taken from Grizzly Peak D on Friday March 8th (prior to latest round of snow). a94buff   2013-03-11 1     Edit Delete 
2013-03-02  Kelso Ridge  Summited Torrey‘s via the Kelso Ridge yesterday(Sat 3/2). Snowshoes not needed at the moment unless another huge storm comes in(you should be able to follow our path all the way up the turnoff for Kelso - at which case you could easily pick up the standard Gray‘s trail too) Crampons, or at least spikes, are needed on the ridge. We all carried and used our axes to cross multiple snow fields. Winds were the most influential factor to our decision making yesterday. Be safe and PM if you would like any current pictures forbins_mtn   2013-03-03  0     Edit Delete 
2013-02-19  Kelso Ridge  Today was awesome. Blue bird day. Drove a bit up the road and hiked to the TH. The trail is boot packed the entire way and no need for show shoes. I made my way up Kelso Ridge and then over to Grays. The conditions on Kelso were very favorable. I used crampons and wore a helmet. I did not need to take out my axe. The knife edge is pretty much a snow bridge that can be walked across. The trail is easy to follow over to Grays and on the descent. Photos are of the route, a Class 3 section, a Class 2 section and the "Knife Edge" I Man   2013-02-19 4  3 4  Edit Delete 
2012-12-30  South Slopes  We drove SUVs to the road fork at 10,250 and started here. It may be possible to drive higher, but no one has in a while. We brought snow shoes but never needed them and stashed them at 12,100 at the trail sign. Currently there is a snow packed trail that conforms to the summer trail and goes across two avy chutes below Kelso Mountain. We split off from the summer trail at around 11,950 and dropped down slightly onto a grassy bench and then bushwhacked through some willows until we regained the summer trail at 12,100. Kelso is starting to get wind loaded and further usage of the summer trail through this area is at your own peril. The rest of the trail to both the summit of Torreys and Grays was snow packed. No traction was used. sdkeil   2012-12-30  0     Edit Delete 
2012-10-06  South Slopes  Snow on the trail, especially above 12,500’. I used MicroSpikes and a pole. There were people without traction who did okay since the snow was mostly still fresh. They minded it more early in the day before the snow softened. There could be more ice in coming days. Traction recommended. MountainHiker   2012-10-06  0     Edit Delete 
2012-07-14  Kelso Ridge  The route was snow free and very easy to navigate. There is a bunch of loose scree at the top of some of the Class 3 portions, so be careful when following other climbers and be cautious of hand/foot holds. Don‘t want to hit anyone with falling rock! mgrundy   2012-07-19  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-23  Kelso Ridge  Completely snow free. forbins_mtn   2012-06-24  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-07  Kelso Ridge  There was almost no snow on the route, with the exception of a tiny field almost not worth mentioning (easily skirted) and a little bit near the summit surrounding the white rock. Some snow present in the gully‘s but was easily avoided. I brought spikes, but definitely were unnecessary! JA_son27   2012-06-08  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-03  Kelso Ridge  Climbed the Kelso Ridge solo starting at the trailhead at 0550. Found almost no snow on the route but then traversed to the south (climber‘s left) under the "Knife Edge" crux near the top into the Dead Dog Couloir and went straight up on soft snow that was easy to kick steps in at around 0830. Climbed with light hiking boots and trekking poles, crampons/instep crampons/microspikes would have been nice for the snow ascent. Summited in about 3 hours - and after swinging over to Grays Peak and then plunge stepping down the basin between the two mountains I was back at the car trailhead at 11:20. Met a gentlemen at the trailhead who climbed the entire Couloir just behind me and then skied it. He said the snow was great for skiing and he felt he timed his ascent/descent perfectly. Board Shorts   2012-06-08  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-26  Dead Dog Couloir  Was up on Saturday, started from the Trailhead around 6:00 AM. This was by far, too late in the day. By the time we got to the base of Dead Dog, the snow was softening up to the point that we were postholing sometimes up to our waste. As another conditions report stated, there were a lot of rock falling, making the climb dangerous. jpfeif001   2012-05-28  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-26  Dead Dog Couloir  Packed into base of coulior last night. No need for snow shoes. Lots of wind. Started climb at 5AM. Topped out at 7AM. Rock fall as soon as sun rose due to lack of a hard freeze. Hugged left edge the whole way to avoid rock fall. Snow continuous to summit. Snow consolidated almost in entirety; some long stretch of front pointing. Lots of smoke from NM fires and lots of wind on top (~50 mph). Good climb. coloradomojo   2012-05-26  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-21  Kelso Ridge  Continuous snow starts just before the crux. Microspikes helped but not mandatory. No need for ice axe if you are careful. Should melt out quick with the heat the next few days. hugemike   2012-05-22 4     Edit Delete 
2012-05-06  Dead Dog Couloir  Climbed Dead Dog today and descended from the Saddle, here‘s what the Dead Dog Coulouir looked like today~ schrund   2012-05-06 1  6    Edit Delete 
2012-04-25  Dead Dog Couloir  Dead Dog in great shape, seems to be fully consolidated with no avy debris though some sizeable rocks have fallen and are 6-12 inches into the snow. I went early since the forecast was for a low of only 29 at 13.2 kft. At parking lot before 5 AM and temp of 40 F. Snow solid and well frozen all the way to the base and up the route. At top at 7:30 AM. The snow was good in the couloir. There isn‘t much of a path initially but from 13.6k up there are solid steps in the RHS by the rocks which made the climbing easier. There were several skiers out as well with some coming up the trail at 10 AM going to DD and others. At 10 AM the snow was still pretty firm until you got below 12k ft. Snowshoes not required. It is probably safe to do this route later in the day but then you‘d miss the great sunrise photos. jimmtman   2012-04-26 1     Edit Delete 
2012-04-09  Dead Dog Couloir  I arrived at the winter trailhead a little before 6:00pm. Forest road 189 was definitely not suitable for 2-wheel drive vehicles yet, but likely any awd/4wd vehicle could make the summer TH. The walk from the winter TH to summer TH took about an hour over the rutted snow covered road. The hike from the summer TH to the base of Dead Dog was mostly over well packed snow that does not require snowshoes. I started up the couloir around 8:00pm. The snow was in good condition for climbing in the lower elevations. Between 13,500 and 14,000 feet the snow became much icier which made axe and crampon use a little trickier (Although this was around 10:00pm, so everything had froze again). At about 13,500 someone had carved out a ledge that made a convenient resting place. Above this there were some steps kicked in that made the remainder of the climb considerably easier. Once you make the ridge, the continuation of the Kelso route is rather simple to the summit. Descending from Torreys to the saddle is a mix of snow and rock. The hike down from Grays is packed snow trail that requires some sort of traction device. The route requires an axe, crampons, and helmet right now. Ricky   2012-04-12  0     Edit Delete 
2012-04-09  Dead Dog Couloir  Dead dog is in awesome condition right now. After reading other‘s reports from this weekend we decided to ski it a little later in the day so that it might be softer than what other people experienced. Definitely a good call...I skied from the summit at 12:30pm and the snow was just right. On the way up though there were was a LOT of rockfall...a few rocks came pretty close to me which was freaky, because unless you‘re looking up the couloir the entire time you‘re climbing sometimes they just fly past you and you don‘t notice until the last minute (by then it‘s too late to dodge out of the way). I‘d say climber‘s left the entire way up the couloir since most of the rocks seemed to be coming from the right side. It‘s almost possible to ski the whole way from the summit back to the trailhead (bridge) if you ski down through the willows and stay in the valley by the creek instead of following the summer trail back down. There‘s a few dry areas above that though, near where you split off from the summer trail and head towards Dead Dog. I was able to drive pretty much to the trailhead in the morning (I have a Subaru Outback) since the snow on the road was frozen, but around 1pm it was a slush-fest and I almost ran off the road a few times on the way down...I got very lucky and didn‘t get stuck. In hindsight I should‘ve parked lower down the road. But it‘s melting fast...I bet in a week or so most cars could make it all the way up there. I brought skins for my skis but never used them...an ice axe and crampons are a necessity though. Image # 2 shows the ski off the summit, and the rest are self-explanatory. sstratta   2012-04-09 4     Edit Delete 
2012-04-08  West Ridge from Loveland Pass  Tough, exhausting, but rewarding! That‘s how I would describe this route. I noted this in my peak conditions report for Grizzly D, but no extra gear was needed up to the Grizzly summit. We were able to get by with normal winter gear and hiking boots. As far as the approach to Torreys summit goes, be extremely careful not to miss the trail! My wife and I somehow missed it from the saddle and bushwacking up scree and loose rock for almost 1600 ft. drained so much energy...energy we needed for the return to Loveland TH. We did regain the trail about 3/4 of the way up, but it was pretty brutal as we were constantly slipping and losing ground prior to that. The route was completely dry to the top, with the exception of a snow-filled gully that is avoidable. You must still be careful on the way down, even when on the trail. The rock and dirt is extremely loose. Given the state of the trail, I jumped into the snow-filled gully and just ran/glided down the whole mountainside...it was a blast! I can‘t imagine that gully staying filled with snow too much longer though. The only spot where microspikes may have been useful was going up Grizzly D from the Torreys/Grizzly saddle. The terrain is pretty steep and snow covered. Coming down wasn‘t a problem, but going up could be rather difficult. That being said, my wife and I were able to do it with no problem by sticking as close to the ridge as possible on the way up. Overall, this is one long haul! Definitely be prepared mentally and physically. My wife and I started to unravel a bit after we summited Grizzly for the 2nd time and saw the roller coaster hike we still had left to the Loveland Pass TH. We pushed through it though. As much as an accomplishment I felt when I finished this hike, I probably would not do it again. rhinos00   2012-04-09  0     Edit Delete 

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