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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-05-03  Keyhole Route  This update could become quickly outdated depending on this weekend‘s snowfall. Lemmiwinks and I had nothing better to do on Saturday, so we ventured through the Keyhole to find a decent amount of stable snow on the Ledges (Image #1), not much snow in the Trough (Image #2), and a decent amount of snow on the second half of the Narrows (Images #3 and #4). The Narrows are obviously passable (see existing tracks), but we were wary of the snow stability at 10am, and not willing to risk instabilities due to sun exposure while we went for the summit. Bottom line: it‘s spicy, but possibly doable if you‘re up and down early or have cold and clouds to keep the snow firm on the Narrows. I would also compare against Bill‘s route description photos 14-16 for an idea of what that snow is sitting on. BenfromtheEast   2014-05-08 4  3    Edit Delete 
2014-04-22  Keyhole Route  Firm snow past the keyhole, steps you can follow but they are shallow and don‘t kick in further easily. I was comfortable not using crampons on the way up but they helped on the way down. Below the keyhole snow was slushy - started at 6AM and finished by noon, above the keyhole I‘m guessing the snow would have stayed firm longer into the afternoon with the colder temperature over 13000 feet. davidponak   2014-04-23 2  3    Edit Delete 
2014-03-19  Keyhole Route  Both summer and winter short cuts pretty well beat in to tree line. Trail is (as usual) sometimes difficult to follow after that due to blowing and drifted snow. Trail is mostly visible around MLW, easy to follow. Clear sailing through boulder field. Pretty steep snowfield on the ledges which held me and others. Trough in ok shape, snow and rock as you please. Narrows mostly clear, rock, snow, and ice. Homestretch a choose your own adventure mix of snow, ice, and rock. Heard a whump from a stretch of snow near the top and got off immediately. Photos- 1. Ledges. 2. Narrows. 3. Homestretch. 4. Steep field before Trough. andrewrose   2014-03-19 4  1 2  Edit Delete 
2014-02-15  Keyhole Route  Well established boot path to treeline. Used snowshoes but others did not and got away with simple traction. Would recommend either in general, but shoes after fresh snow. Usual winter shortcuts in effect where snowshoes are helpful. Snow depth is deepest in several years this time of year. Winds are brutal this time of winter above treeline so be prepared with layers and goggles if going higher. Alan Arnette   2014-02-16  0     Edit Delete 
2014-02-09  Keyhole Route  I didn‘t venture above treeline today, but what I saw of Longs Peak Trail was pretty snowy and not too tracked in, making for a calf-scorching hike in my trekking boots and microspikes. I turned around earlier than planned, sagely opting not to torture myself with further postholing and plowing the trail. On my descent from the Alpine Brook, I saw about six backcountry skiers and one hiker with snowshoes. They all seemed to be floating across the deeply powdered trail with considerably less effort than me. The snow looked gorgeous, and I can only imagine how much fun the descent must have been for anyone on skis. The weather was mild and balmy, with some snow coming down and much less wind than I‘m accustomed to enduring on Longs. If you‘re free on Monday and like to ski Longs Peak Trail, you‘re probably in for a treat. Michael Underwood   2014-02-09  0  1    Edit Delete 
2013-12-30  North Face/Cables  Went up for a winter summit of Longs Peak today via the North Face. The trail below treeline is compacted snow(would be great skin) but snowshoe are not mandatory. At treeline used snowshoes for about .25 of a mile before stashing them for pickup on the descent. The traverse accross the lower face of Mt. Lady Washington has compacted snow but we did not punch through with mountaineering boots. travel accross the Boulder Field is straight forward (be prepared for wind) with some compact snow and ice. The North Face is in good shape. Patches of snow and ice. We used ice tools and crampons for the entire face and ended up dowing a lot of dry tooling. The path of least resistance above the bolts is easy, just follow the snow. While there was ice nothing was thick enough to get a screw into. pooree   2013-12-30  0  1    
2013-12-10  Keyhole Route  Post holed to treeline. A lot of sugar snow from 2 inches to thigh high. Hope to make it higher later in the week. IkeB   2013-12-11  0  2    Edit Delete 
2013-11-09  Cables / North Face  Cables route was a fun climb, with some fun ice as well. Was concerned about the wind on the technical pitch, with NOAA saying: "Windy, with a west wind 27 to 32 mph decreasing to 20 to 25 mph in the afternoon. Winds could gust as high as 49 mph." It was windy in the boulderfield and during the approach, and we were prepared to turn back -- but the technical pitch had almost zero wind. We did some class 3/4 scrambling to get to the base of the technical pitch. Around and above the first eyebolt, the face of the rock was mostly covered in water ice. Ended up climbing it as a WI/mixed. Definitely felt like it was the crux in present conditions. (I would personally recommend bringing a hybrid/tool and ice climbing crampons...but depends on your comfort level I suppose.) Above that, some snow made the climbing easier until the summertime crux. The summer crux was similar to summer condition, but with some patches of ice/snow. To me, this 5.4 move felt much easier than the ice crux near the start of the climb. From there, it‘s a fairly straightforward hike to the summit. robco   2013-11-11  0       
2013-10-23  Loft and Keyhole Routes  Ascended Loft Route and descended via Keyhole Route. Very nice-looking ice forming near Chasm lake. Several feet of loose snow and substantial verglas are present on the ledges where the Loft route diverges from the Loft Couloir to the climber‘s left. I climbed 4th class rock to avoid as much of this as possible and would not have relished the descent. The Loft proper and Keplinger‘s Couloir were very navigable, but the section just past that, where the route leaves Keplinger‘s Couloir and heads climber‘s left to join the Keyhole route near the Homestretch was covered in 2-4 ft of loose snow. I had to engage in uncomfortable uphill postholing and some 3rd or 4th class rock scrambling adjacent to significant exposure. Because of the steep, loose snow, I decided to forgo the Homestretch and environs, making immediate descent via the Narrows and Trough, which were full of 2-4 ft deep loose snow. The snow was quite steep in the Narrows, requiring effort to wade and step through. In the Trough, lots of shallow snow concealed steep rock, making for tremendous slip potential. Descent was very slow and deliberate. The Ledges were covered in the same loose and relatively deep snow, though certain sections were bare rock or shallow snow, which was a pleasant change of pace. Descent into the Boulderfield after the Keyhole was a little snowy, but not much of a problem. All in all, the snow is loose enough on both routes at the moment to render crampons superfluous and trekking poles a rather better option than an ax. Solid gaiters were a necessity. Michael Underwood   2013-10-25  0  1      
2013-10-19  Chasm Lake area  Hiked into Chasm yesterday. Packed powder w/ occassional 1-3 ft drifts to the Chasm turnoff. Deeper 6-12" powder to the lake with drifts. Heard it‘s pretty much the same up to Keyhole. Ice looks very nice for you ice guys/gals. ulvetano   2013-10-20 2       
2013-09-29  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Made it only to the top of the Loft and was turned back by seriously high winds. The couloir is fairly clear of snow until you reach the top third, where the canyon walls close in and force you to climb in area where there are several inches to several feet of snow and some ice. Again, didn‘t make it to the exit ramp at the top of the couloir. Crampons and axes are a must. Tyler Phillips   2013-09-29  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-31  Keyhole Route  It rained heavily on Saturday, 8/31, for a long time high on Longs. I could see waterfalls running off the peak afterward. It‘s going to be very wet up there on Sunday and probably Monday too. Tony1   2013-08-31  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-24  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Both Loft route and Keyhole route are snow and ice free. There were some slick rocks with running water on Loft route but this can be easily avoided. Someone left a waste bag right in the middle of the trail (above keplinger). Was too grossed out to pick it up  TheOtherIndian   2013-08-26  0  1    Edit Delete 
2013-08-19  Keyhole Route  no issues on Keyhole route. Quite dry. Encountered no ice and what little snow there was was easily avoidable. Little to no rain on 8/19/13 while I was on route. Lville   2013-08-21  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-17  Keyhole Route  Route was clear nearly the entire way up...a bit of residual snow and melt-off, but nothing that you can‘t avoid. rjennings   2013-08-21  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-14  Keyhole Route  Some snow and ice past the keyhole. Ice on the homestretch. A warm day or two and it should melt off. IkeB   2013-08-14  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-10  North Face  We went up the North Face (Cables route) and down the Keyhole. Summer conditions all over the mountain. esagas   2013-08-10  0       
2013-07-22  Keyhole Route  The Keyhole Route is completely free of snow and in great shape. There were just a couple of wet spots from drainage above on the Narrows. Don’t forget to rent/pickup a bear canister for your food if you plan on doing backcountry camping in RMNP. The park rangers at the TH will not issue a camping permit unless you have one… jrs1965   2013-07-24  0     Edit Delete 
2013-07-22  Kieners  Lambs is very icy now. There was a thin strip of snow along the climber‘s right side, but it will rapidly disappear. It is possible to climb Glacier Rib and then go over the top of the snow/ice and back down to Broadway, this will add a couple hundred feet. The rest of the route is dry and good shape. North Face nearly dry - easy DC. pbakwin   2013-07-22  0       
2013-07-16  Keyhole Route  Was up there Tuesday 7/16, route was completely snow free. Homestretch was a bit wet/icey but mostly avoidable. Water running pretty well near boulderfield campsites and accessable for getting filled up on the way up and down. Rambler   2013-07-18  0     Edit Delete 

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