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Longs Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-06-16  Notch Couloir and North Face  The Notch couloir on the east face is still in great condition. The snow was great for kicking steps and held firm since the most of the couloir doesn‘t receive sunhit until late. The top was a bit soft. We thought the crux chimney was harder than 5.0, especially with ice. We descended the north face and the snow was still quite firm in the afternoon. We had to face in from about 200 feet below the summit to the highest rap station, an exhausting ordeal. The snow didn‘t soften much due to the wind. Kevin Baker   2014-06-17  0  1      
2014-06-14  North Face & Keyhole  For some reason I went up the North Face (Cables) and down the Keyhole both yesterday and today. Conditions are changing rapidly. The North Face was probably an ideal snow climb 5 days ago. Yesterday it was pretty good with a couple of careful steps on the cables section, and otherwise good snow right to the summit. Today the crux moves at the top of the cables section were quite icy & we had to hack some steps to be secure with running shoes and light crampons. It will probably get harder with time (mix of wet rock & ice) until it finally dries out later in the summer. But anyway the top bolt is easily visible so it‘s a fine rap route as is. The Keyhole Route is in great shape for crampons/ax. The first 200 yards from the Keyhole are rock, then it‘s almost completely good, cramponable snow to the top of the Trough, then some rocky and some snowy sections through and past the Narrows, then the Homestretch is all good firm snow. It‘s a great route in these conditions, if you bring the right tools. All this is of course changing very fast. pbakwin   2014-06-14 2  2      
2014-06-04  Notch Coulior; Keyhole  Climbed Longs via the Notch on 6/5 and descended the Keyhole. Here is some beta from all the different sections which we encountered. Excellent snow conditions for anyone with a mind, but the keyhole is still very, very much in snow and ice conditions. Chasm Lake: Frozen in the middle, melting out fast. We were able to traverse around the south side of the lake on snow. This may be in for a while longer. Lamb‘s Slide: Excellent booting snow. Almost no signs of rock fall or wet slide activity. Terrific purchase the length of the coulior. Broadway: Still substantial snow across the route. Multiple 45-60 degree fields to cross. Some areas had melted out, but it was almost always easier to stick to the snow. First crux move consists of a nearly vertical 10-15 foot down climb at the start of the traverse. Move around the boulder was melted well with some good pro opportunities nearby. Climbing above the boulder seemed possible, although much more involved and not worth it. Notch: Excellent snow conditions with a solid boot track in place due to several parties going up. Snow conditions varied considerably based on sun exposure, which was different due to the shaded portions of the route. By noon, the top was getting quite wet - start early. Homestretch: Terrific snow down climb the whole way on 35ish slope. Moving on the rocks is possible, but a good boot track is in place. Keplinger‘s looks in for a ways down the coulior. Skiers take note. Narrows: More snow to cross. Several spicy section for anyone without an axe or crampons. Loft: More good snow on gentler angle. Fast and easy snow down climb. Feel free to post of PM for more beta or pics. I plan on doing a TR in the coming days. Zambo   2014-06-05  0  1      
2014-06-01  Notch  Boot-packed good snow (~45 deg Lambslide and Broadway, maybe 45 with a few steeper snow steps in Notch). No ice and not yet neve. A week of warming might clear out the Broadway crux step - well protected from slung horns and a red to yellow BD in the hand crack just after (tall people could probably use the crack at the cross over). Not much instability or rock fall. Monster5   2014-06-01  0  3      
2014-05-26  Keyhole Route  Easily still classified as a winter climb. Broke trail from the Tundra sign this morning, but it was melted enough by noon to see the trail to the split for Chasm. Around Mt. Lady Washington and into the Boulder field was consistent shin-deep snow with no trail to follow which became progressively worse toward the end of the boulder field. At times sinking further than waist deep, was lucky enough to have met an awesome guy who broke most of the way up. The entrance to the Keyhole itself was icy and covered in snow. Past the Keyhole the bulls-eye markings were hidden as there was knee-deep powder on the ledges. Route finding was not an easy task, and in addition to the snow conditions the decision was made to turn around not far from the Keyhole. marcstrawser   2014-05-26 4     Edit Delete 
2014-05-18  Keyhole Route  Full on winter conditions today. Summited via Keyhole but broke trail from Chasm Junction to summit. Drifts in Boulder Field makes for interesting post holing. Ledges, Trough, Narrows and Homestretch all covered with 1 - 3 feet of loose to thin crusted powder. Hopefully will consolidate with warmer temps Alan Arnette   2014-05-18  0     Edit Delete 
2014-05-03  Keyhole Route  This update could become quickly outdated depending on this weekend‘s snowfall. Lemmiwinks and I had nothing better to do on Saturday, so we ventured through the Keyhole to find a decent amount of stable snow on the Ledges (Image #1), not much snow in the Trough (Image #2), and a decent amount of snow on the second half of the Narrows (Images #3 and #4). The Narrows are obviously passable (see existing tracks), but we were wary of the snow stability at 10am, and not willing to risk instabilities due to sun exposure while we went for the summit. Bottom line: it‘s spicy, but possibly doable if you‘re up and down early or have cold and clouds to keep the snow firm on the Narrows. I would also compare against Bill‘s route description photos 14-16 for an idea of what that snow is sitting on. BenfromtheEast   2014-05-08 4  3    Edit Delete 
2014-04-22  Keyhole Route  Firm snow past the keyhole, steps you can follow but they are shallow and don‘t kick in further easily. I was comfortable not using crampons on the way up but they helped on the way down. Below the keyhole snow was slushy - started at 6AM and finished by noon, above the keyhole I‘m guessing the snow would have stayed firm longer into the afternoon with the colder temperature over 13000 feet. davidponak   2014-04-23 2  3    Edit Delete 
2014-03-19  Keyhole Route  Both summer and winter short cuts pretty well beat in to tree line. Trail is (as usual) sometimes difficult to follow after that due to blowing and drifted snow. Trail is mostly visible around MLW, easy to follow. Clear sailing through boulder field. Pretty steep snowfield on the ledges which held me and others. Trough in ok shape, snow and rock as you please. Narrows mostly clear, rock, snow, and ice. Homestretch a choose your own adventure mix of snow, ice, and rock. Heard a whump from a stretch of snow near the top and got off immediately. Photos- 1. Ledges. 2. Narrows. 3. Homestretch. 4. Steep field before Trough. andrewrose   2014-03-19 4  1 2  Edit Delete 
2014-02-15  Keyhole Route  Well established boot path to treeline. Used snowshoes but others did not and got away with simple traction. Would recommend either in general, but shoes after fresh snow. Usual winter shortcuts in effect where snowshoes are helpful. Snow depth is deepest in several years this time of year. Winds are brutal this time of winter above treeline so be prepared with layers and goggles if going higher. Alan Arnette   2014-02-16  0     Edit Delete 
2014-02-09  Keyhole Route  I didn‘t venture above treeline today, but what I saw of Longs Peak Trail was pretty snowy and not too tracked in, making for a calf-scorching hike in my trekking boots and microspikes. I turned around earlier than planned, sagely opting not to torture myself with further postholing and plowing the trail. On my descent from the Alpine Brook, I saw about six backcountry skiers and one hiker with snowshoes. They all seemed to be floating across the deeply powdered trail with considerably less effort than me. The snow looked gorgeous, and I can only imagine how much fun the descent must have been for anyone on skis. The weather was mild and balmy, with some snow coming down and much less wind than I‘m accustomed to enduring on Longs. If you‘re free on Monday and like to ski Longs Peak Trail, you‘re probably in for a treat. Michael Underwood   2014-02-09  0  1    Edit Delete 
2013-12-30  North Face/Cables  Went up for a winter summit of Longs Peak today via the North Face. The trail below treeline is compacted snow(would be great skin) but snowshoe are not mandatory. At treeline used snowshoes for about .25 of a mile before stashing them for pickup on the descent. The traverse accross the lower face of Mt. Lady Washington has compacted snow but we did not punch through with mountaineering boots. travel accross the Boulder Field is straight forward (be prepared for wind) with some compact snow and ice. The North Face is in good shape. Patches of snow and ice. We used ice tools and crampons for the entire face and ended up dowing a lot of dry tooling. The path of least resistance above the bolts is easy, just follow the snow. While there was ice nothing was thick enough to get a screw into. pooree   2013-12-30  0  1    
2013-12-10  Keyhole Route  Post holed to treeline. A lot of sugar snow from 2 inches to thigh high. Hope to make it higher later in the week. IkeB   2013-12-11  0  2    Edit Delete 
2013-11-09  Cables / North Face  Cables route was a fun climb, with some fun ice as well. Was concerned about the wind on the technical pitch, with NOAA saying: "Windy, with a west wind 27 to 32 mph decreasing to 20 to 25 mph in the afternoon. Winds could gust as high as 49 mph." It was windy in the boulderfield and during the approach, and we were prepared to turn back -- but the technical pitch had almost zero wind. We did some class 3/4 scrambling to get to the base of the technical pitch. Around and above the first eyebolt, the face of the rock was mostly covered in water ice. Ended up climbing it as a WI/mixed. Definitely felt like it was the crux in present conditions. (I would personally recommend bringing a hybrid/tool and ice climbing crampons...but depends on your comfort level I suppose.) Above that, some snow made the climbing easier until the summertime crux. The summer crux was similar to summer condition, but with some patches of ice/snow. To me, this 5.4 move felt much easier than the ice crux near the start of the climb. From there, it‘s a fairly straightforward hike to the summit. robco   2013-11-11  0       
2013-10-23  Loft and Keyhole Routes  Ascended Loft Route and descended via Keyhole Route. Very nice-looking ice forming near Chasm lake. Several feet of loose snow and substantial verglas are present on the ledges where the Loft route diverges from the Loft Couloir to the climber‘s left. I climbed 4th class rock to avoid as much of this as possible and would not have relished the descent. The Loft proper and Keplinger‘s Couloir were very navigable, but the section just past that, where the route leaves Keplinger‘s Couloir and heads climber‘s left to join the Keyhole route near the Homestretch was covered in 2-4 ft of loose snow. I had to engage in uncomfortable uphill postholing and some 3rd or 4th class rock scrambling adjacent to significant exposure. Because of the steep, loose snow, I decided to forgo the Homestretch and environs, making immediate descent via the Narrows and Trough, which were full of 2-4 ft deep loose snow. The snow was quite steep in the Narrows, requiring effort to wade and step through. In the Trough, lots of shallow snow concealed steep rock, making for tremendous slip potential. Descent was very slow and deliberate. The Ledges were covered in the same loose and relatively deep snow, though certain sections were bare rock or shallow snow, which was a pleasant change of pace. Descent into the Boulderfield after the Keyhole was a little snowy, but not much of a problem. All in all, the snow is loose enough on both routes at the moment to render crampons superfluous and trekking poles a rather better option than an ax. Solid gaiters were a necessity. Michael Underwood   2013-10-25  0  1      
2013-10-19  Chasm Lake area  Hiked into Chasm yesterday. Packed powder w/ occassional 1-3 ft drifts to the Chasm turnoff. Deeper 6-12" powder to the lake with drifts. Heard it‘s pretty much the same up to Keyhole. Ice looks very nice for you ice guys/gals. ulvetano   2013-10-20 2       
2013-09-29  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Made it only to the top of the Loft and was turned back by seriously high winds. The couloir is fairly clear of snow until you reach the top third, where the canyon walls close in and force you to climb in area where there are several inches to several feet of snow and some ice. Again, didn‘t make it to the exit ramp at the top of the couloir. Crampons and axes are a must. Tyler Phillips   2013-09-29  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-31  Keyhole Route  It rained heavily on Saturday, 8/31, for a long time high on Longs. I could see waterfalls running off the peak afterward. It‘s going to be very wet up there on Sunday and probably Monday too. Tony1   2013-08-31  0     Edit Delete 
2013-08-24  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Both Loft route and Keyhole route are snow and ice free. There were some slick rocks with running water on Loft route but this can be easily avoided. Someone left a waste bag right in the middle of the trail (above keplinger). Was too grossed out to pick it up  TheOtherIndian   2013-08-26  0  1    Edit Delete 
2013-08-19  Keyhole Route  no issues on Keyhole route. Quite dry. Encountered no ice and what little snow there was was easily avoidable. Little to no rain on 8/19/13 while I was on route. Lville   2013-08-21  0     Edit Delete 

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