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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-07-09||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: No gear needed for full ascent/descent on Keyhole route. Snow/ice melted in trough enough to avoid without going off-route.
|2014-07-07||Route: Loft - via East Longs Trailhead
Info: Apparently Clark‘s Arrow was swept away in the floods last September. More info here: http://www.14ers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43840
|2014-07-05||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Solo trip to longs started at 12:45, back at 9:00 went through the keyhole lots of black ice due to my 5:30 summit time. The route can almost be done without winter gear, just more scrambling on the left side.i used my crampons anyway only for the top section of the trough. Not to mention the ever so slightest snow dusting on the summit
|2014-07-02||Route: Lamb\'s Slide
Info: We started at the base of Lamb‘s Slide around 7:45 AM. The snow was not soft at all. We had good cramponing all the way up. We were climbing along the climber‘s left in the couloir. There were some sections of hard snow/ice, but overall awesome couloir climbing conditions. The couloir was in shade for the most part. We topped out at 10:00 AM. The snow slope from the top of Lamb‘s to the loft was not too soft. We descended down the ramp and loft couloir. Finding the ramp wasn‘t too difficult. There are three snow patches at the top of loft forming a triangle - from there you can follow the cairns to the ramp. The ramp begins at the lowest of the three grassy ledges. Crossing the big boulder on the ramp was tricky - some snow/ice around and below it. I crossed fromm the front and jumped on the snow. My partner crossed from behind icy section. From there we had to do some exposed class 3/class 4 down climbing to avoid snow in the couloir. overall a great day. Contrary to what people are saying we found the snow to be not too soft in couloirs till about 10:00 AM. I had to down climb a small section of the snow in loft couloir to avoid exposed class 4 in my mountaineering boots, and the snow was not too soft. Overall a great day. The Dutchman may not be in shape.
|2014-06-30||Route: Loft - via East Longs Trailhead
Info: I climbed Longs and Meeker using the Loft route for the ascent and the Keyhole route for the descent. While I had crampons and an ax, I used neither for the ascent. You still have to cross a couple of sketchy snow gullies near Chasm Lake, but most people are just using trekking poles. The rest of the snow you have to cross is very low angle and just short patches between rocks. I was able to climb on dry rocks left of the Loft couloir all the way up to the exit ramp. When you link up with the Homestretch section, just stay to climbers right of the snow/ice and you can climb all the way to the summit on dry rock. I decided to descend via the Keyhole route and regretted it - more for its tediousness, than the conditions (the Loft is a lot more fun). While there are still many sections of snow and ice, you can avoid most of it by careful scrambling. I wore my crampons for only a 20 foot section of the Trough. It‘s probably still a good idea to bring an ax and crampons for the near future.
Info: Trail is completely dry with two very small snow patches near treeline. We did the entire approach to lambslide and the descent from below the N. Face in trail runners. Lambslide was a little soft at 6am given no recent freezes. We did not use crampons on broadway as the snow is almost entirely avoidable (excepting the short down climb). The step around is dry. Snow at the base of the notch was very soft at 8:00 and Kieners chimneys were wet and muddy - a snorkle would be useful. Snow on upper Kieners was too soft to travel on by 10:00 but easy enough to avoid with rock scrambling to climbers right. Snow was very soft on the descent of the north face and the cables route is a river.
Info: THIS REPORT IS NOT FOR THE STANDARD ROUTE! Trail is completely clear (minus a couple drifts near treeline) up until after Chasm junction, then there were a couple snowfields to cross before Chasm lake. Snow was firm in the morning and slick. You may still find some solid snow/ice around the north side of Chasm lake, but we did some boulder hopping part of the way around. Lamb‘s Slide was in great shape. Broadway had a couple sections of snow which we protected, though if you are very comfortable with snow there are good steps. You can walk right across the bottom of the Notch couloir, completely dry within 10/20 feet of the cliff edge. The crux chimneys were mostly dry with one very wet section to get out onto the upper slopes. Upper slopes do have snow, but we skirted around the left side on mostly class 3, some class 4 rock. Diamond step completely dry. For descent, North Face has a large snowfield to cross before the slabs. We used axes/crampons. There were a couple icy sections and an uncontroled slide would send you over the Diamond or the slabs. The rappels were very wet. Hike out sucks, as always.
|2014-06-21||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Went up the Keyhole Route on Saturday 6/21. Snow is a non-factor up to the Keyhole, then you can easily scramble to the False Keyhole without gear. After the False Keyhole there is some steep and icy snow with major consequence if one falls, I used crampons/ice axe through this section, though good steps do exist and two others made it through without gear. The Trough is mostly snow with quite a bit of ice forming on the slabs to the climbers left. Crampons and ice axe required for the snow in the AM as it stayed hard until at least 9:30am. The step at the top of the Trough is melting out and is mostly a rock scramble unfortunately, snow doesn‘t help much anymore. The Narrows are 80% snow free and most of it could be avoided EXCEPT for one 5ft patch of ice and another 30ft of hard snow/ice, I wore crampons all the way across the traverse. The Homestretch is mostly covered in snow/ice and again used crampons/ice axe all the way. Narrows might be clear in the next few weeks, but the Trough and Homestretch will probably be technical at least into July from my experience. See photos for exact conditions.
|2014-06-20||Route: Loft - via East Longs Trailhead
Info: Went up via the Loft route and back down the Keyhole. The snow on the Couloirs is still pretty great and held firm throughout a sunny morning. On the ledges, its a bit dicer, but good boot pack to follow. Crampons, ice ax, and helmet a must! This is a steep route, so be safe. Not a climb for beginners (considering all the issues people have had on Longs already this year). Coming around the beaver (SE Longs) really keep an eye out for the cairns. The class 3-4 scrambling is virtually free of ice and snow, but has some loose rock, so take precaution. Connecting back up with Keplingers Couloir, the snow was still pretty good. On the homestretch, really try to get a good firm hold with the ice ax, especially coming down when the snow gets soft. Its a bit lighter up there.
|2014-06-19||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Summer conditions up until the Keyhole. Lots of snow on all aspects of the route after that. The snow had a strong overnight freeze and was very firm. I had a hard time getting good plunges with the ice axe. As per usual the narrows were the least sketchy part and the homestretch was the most sketchy. Also the north face and loft are both holding a decent amount of snow.
|2014-06-17||Route: Notch Couloir and Cables
Info: Conditions are changing quickly. With that in mind: Due to some good, recent freezes the Notch is in Prime condition. Broadway has some snow but not at any of the tricky spots. Hard styrofoam snow the entire way; even surprisingly firm near the top. The 5.5 chimney is completely smegged in ice making for a more award and tricky climb. Due to the freezing and north aspect of the Cables route our descent had hard snow as well. Lower cables was covered in ice. The snow never softened up and we had to front point for the entire descent. The keyhole may be a better descent option at the moment. Pic 1: Lower Notch Pic 2: Upper Notch Pic 3: Icy Chimney out of Notch Pic 4: Hard snow on North Face. Pic 5: Still lots of snow on the North Face.
|2014-06-16||Route: Notch Couloir and North Face
Info: The Notch couloir on the east face is still in great condition. The snow was great for kicking steps and held firm since the most of the couloir doesn‘t receive sunhit until late. The top was a bit soft. We thought the crux chimney was harder than 5.0, especially with ice. We descended the north face and the snow was still quite firm in the afternoon. We had to face in from about 200 feet below the summit to the highest rap station, an exhausting ordeal. The snow didn‘t soften much due to the wind.
|2014-06-14||Route: North Face & Keyhole
Info: For some reason I went up the North Face (Cables) and down the Keyhole both yesterday and today. Conditions are changing rapidly. The North Face was probably an ideal snow climb 5 days ago. Yesterday it was pretty good with a couple of careful steps on the cables section, and otherwise good snow right to the summit. Today the crux moves at the top of the cables section were quite icy & we had to hack some steps to be secure with running shoes and light crampons. It will probably get harder with time (mix of wet rock & ice) until it finally dries out later in the summer. But anyway the top bolt is easily visible so it‘s a fine rap route as is. The Keyhole Route is in great shape for crampons/ax. The first 200 yards from the Keyhole are rock, then it‘s almost completely good, cramponable snow to the top of the Trough, then some rocky and some snowy sections through and past the Narrows, then the Homestretch is all good firm snow. It‘s a great route in these conditions, if you bring the right tools. All this is of course changing very fast.
|2014-06-04||Route: Notch Coulior; Keyhole
Info: Climbed Longs via the Notch on 6/5 and descended the Keyhole. Here is some beta from all the different sections which we encountered. Excellent snow conditions for anyone with a mind, but the keyhole is still very, very much in snow and ice conditions. Chasm Lake: Frozen in the middle, melting out fast. We were able to traverse around the south side of the lake on snow. This may be in for a while longer. Lamb‘s Slide: Excellent booting snow. Almost no signs of rock fall or wet slide activity. Terrific purchase the length of the coulior. Broadway: Still substantial snow across the route. Multiple 45-60 degree fields to cross. Some areas had melted out, but it was almost always easier to stick to the snow. First crux move consists of a nearly vertical 10-15 foot down climb at the start of the traverse. Move around the boulder was melted well with some good pro opportunities nearby. Climbing above the boulder seemed possible, although much more involved and not worth it. Notch: Excellent snow conditions with a solid boot track in place due to several parties going up. Snow conditions varied considerably based on sun exposure, which was different due to the shaded portions of the route. By noon, the top was getting quite wet - start early. Homestretch: Terrific snow down climb the whole way on 35ish slope. Moving on the rocks is possible, but a good boot track is in place. Keplinger‘s looks in for a ways down the coulior. Skiers take note. Narrows: More snow to cross. Several spicy section for anyone without an axe or crampons. Loft: More good snow on gentler angle. Fast and easy snow down climb. Feel free to post of PM for more beta or pics. I plan on doing a TR in the coming days.
Info: Boot-packed good snow (~45 deg Lambslide and Broadway, maybe 45 with a few steeper snow steps in Notch). No ice and not yet neve. A week of warming might clear out the Broadway crux step - well protected from slung horns and a red to yellow BD in the hand crack just after (tall people could probably use the crack at the cross over). Not much instability or rock fall.
|2014-05-26||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Easily still classified as a winter climb. Broke trail from the Tundra sign this morning, but it was melted enough by noon to see the trail to the split for Chasm. Around Mt. Lady Washington and into the Boulder field was consistent shin-deep snow with no trail to follow which became progressively worse toward the end of the boulder field. At times sinking further than waist deep, was lucky enough to have met an awesome guy who broke most of the way up. The entrance to the Keyhole itself was icy and covered in snow. Past the Keyhole the bulls-eye markings were hidden as there was knee-deep powder on the ledges. Route finding was not an easy task, and in addition to the snow conditions the decision was made to turn around not far from the Keyhole.
|2014-05-18||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Full on winter conditions today. Summited via Keyhole but broke trail from Chasm Junction to summit. Drifts in Boulder Field makes for interesting post holing. Ledges, Trough, Narrows and Homestretch all covered with 1 - 3 feet of loose to thin crusted powder. Hopefully will consolidate with warmer temps
|2014-05-03||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: This update could become quickly outdated depending on this weekend‘s snowfall. Lemmiwinks and I had nothing better to do on Saturday, so we ventured through the Keyhole to find a decent amount of stable snow on the Ledges (Image #1), not much snow in the Trough (Image #2), and a decent amount of snow on the second half of the Narrows (Images #3 and #4). The Narrows are obviously passable (see existing tracks), but we were wary of the snow stability at 10am, and not willing to risk instabilities due to sun exposure while we went for the summit. Bottom line: it‘s spicy, but possibly doable if you‘re up and down early or have cold and clouds to keep the snow firm on the Narrows. I would also compare against Bill‘s route description photos 14-16 for an idea of what that snow is sitting on.
|2014-04-22||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Firm snow past the keyhole, steps you can follow but they are shallow and don‘t kick in further easily. I was comfortable not using crampons on the way up but they helped on the way down. Below the keyhole snow was slushy - started at 6AM and finished by noon, above the keyhole I‘m guessing the snow would have stayed firm longer into the afternoon with the colder temperature over 13000 feet.
|2014-03-19||Route: Keyhole Route
Info: Both summer and winter short cuts pretty well beat in to tree line. Trail is (as usual) sometimes difficult to follow after that due to blowing and drifted snow. Trail is mostly visible around MLW, easy to follow. Clear sailing through boulder field. Pretty steep snowfield on the ledges which held me and others. Trough in ok shape, snow and rock as you please. Narrows mostly clear, rock, snow, and ice. Homestretch a choose your own adventure mix of snow, ice, and rock. Heard a whump from a stretch of snow near the top and got off immediately. Photos- 1. Ledges. 2. Narrows. 3. Homestretch. 4. Steep field before Trough.