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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-09-19||Route: North Slopes
Info: I got a good look at the north side of Mt. Wilson and ED today while climbing Wilson Peak. There is a serious amount of snow there. Come prepared.
|2016-09-10||Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Info: Bagged both peaks and traverse. Weather is beginning to roll in. Might be another week or less before there will be snow and ice up there. Thought it was sketchy and loose more so than the Bells.
|2016-08-25||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: SW slopes is a great route. I wouldn't consider any of it more than moderate class 3. Snow was solid, and if desired, could be mostly avoided. Gullies and route are obvious up above 13900. Recent snow in San Juans likely changed this. Sweet spot for low-traverse to El Diente is 13100 to 13200 which has good stretches of smaller, more stable talus/scree.
|2016-08-13||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: SW slopes route is in great snow shape. Solid snow during the morning, crampons and ice axe are a must if doing this during early morning, it will save you lot of talus hopping. There is continuous snow line from the bottom of picture 3 to very top. I used ice axe and crampons with a 6:30 AM start at the snow field. Microspikes wont cut it when going up. During the descent, the snow was quite slushy, microspikes helpful during the descent, especially if doing the traverse and coming down Wilson afternoon/late morning. Was able to briefly glissade on the way down. It is possible to avoid the snow and take super loose gully and talus, question is why do you want to? Take advantage of the snow! Also, there is lot of snow up there, I was in the basin the same time last year and remember there being less snow, so don't think so the snow is going any time soon.
|2016-08-03||Route: North Slopes
Info: Just some general information. The route is clear to the summit. You can avoid all snow fields on the route.
|2016-07-30||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: Climbed Wilson via the Southwest Slopes from Kilpacker on 7/30. No snow at all until after the El Diente turnoff. El Diente route looks like it has a very small amount of easily avoidable snow. The traverse is completely snow-free. However, the Wilson upper basins still have large, steep, difficult to avoid snow fields that can be bulletproof in the morning. We managed to get up to the base of the upper gully without any snow gear, but it definitely made the climb more difficult - crampons would have been nice. The upper gully leading to the summit is almost completely snow-free, so once you get up near the rib crossing, you're home-free. Thankfully, the same snow that made the climb up tough allowed us to glissade down. Left the campsite at the major creek crossing (about 3 miles in) at 5:15am. Summitted at 9:30am. Spent almost an hour on the summit, then returned to the campsite at noon.
|2016-07-12||Route: North Slopes
Info: Hiked in on Monday, July 11 from ROA trailhead and brought an axe and spikes. About 8 minor snowfields to cross on the ROA approach. I didn't put my spikes on but took it slow through these areas. Climbed Wilson Peak, no axe or spikes necessary. Camped in Upper Navajo Basin, snow not a problem. Climbed ELD North Buttress and did traverse to Wilson on Tuesday. Did not use axe or spikes on ELD or traverse. On Wilson there is a small gully of snow to cross pretty high up to stay on route. I used my axe here to glisade down for quite a ways. I only descended this route and I didn't see the strip of dirt to cross that "thebeave" referenced in an earlier condition report (but I wasn't looking for it). I personally would have not been comfortable descending without an axe as backup.
|2016-07-10||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: fun snowclimb. definitely bring crampons and axe. bulletproof snow on ascent and descent. still some snow on el diente south slopes.
|2016-06-29||Route: North Slopes
Info: Navajo basin is mostly filled with snow from about 12200ft up. The ridgeline toward the North slope is about 70% snow free but several large snow patches must be crossed. The upper ridgelines are snow free but the gulley on the approach to Wilson is still filled with a lot of snow, but one can cross on dirt at the very top near the ridge. The summit pitch is clear. The snow fields made for good glissades on the descent all the way back to Navajo Basin, one can do a two tiered glissade into Navajo Basin at 12400ft with only several hundred yards of hiking between the two.
|2016-06-16||Route: Kilpacker Approach
Info: Snow on 06/14/16 was in perfect condition for the south east approach. Snow almost all the way to the top minus the last 100 feet or so. Will expect warmer temps and full sun to continue to loosen snow pack. could be some post hole potential later in the day on the retreat. This route if taken early enough is shaded so will be more solid. Steps kicked on upper portions.
|2016-05-28||Route: East Face
Info: Approached from Cross Mountain TH. I chose to climb Cross mountain trail to 10.8 or 11K then contour. This was an excellent choice. Skins went on at 10.3 (just after slate creek deviation) and there were two skiable dirt patches. I started to descend Slate creek, and quickly decided to regain to !!K. and traverse out back the way I came. This is a much better option as the creek is in pretty bad shape and requires contrived effort to exit. riding out to 10.3 the other way is pretty easy. Anyways - skinned up to 13.K on the east face. there was 20 cm of storm snow on MF crust with the top 10 sitting on grapple in its range. roller balls by 8:30 on the grauple layer. I avoided the standard route and booted up to the N. ridge and climbed this to the summit. Summit descent is IN right now and clean. From the Summit block S. to the E>W Col then East out to Box Car. I cut the 20 cm slab out of the S. Slope. Although S. at 9:15 it was protected from sun. These protected slopes S. N. W. whatever harbored wintery snow. (the specified 20 cm) by the time I got to box car it was wet, but cuts wouldn't produce loose wet avalanches. I wanted to ride gladstone also but I felt it was too warm to gamble on cloud cover. I know Kadrowsky was successful on the 3 peak link up that day. Not sure how he played his aspect card, but would seem like luck with cloud cover was on his side. Everything in the Wilsons is stacked right now. Great time to go ride in that zone. W. couloir on Gladstone is fat!!! great linkup options!
|2016-04-23||Route: East Face
Info: Terrible, terrible skiing. But fast climbing on hard snow and continuous turns from the summit to the trailhead.
|2016-03-20||Route: Boxcar Couloir
Info: Ascended Boxcar Couloir via Cross Mountain TH, descended east slopes. Snow consolidated in Couloir more since last CR, found good spring snow conditions in the Couloir, but we had exit by 11am. Snow stable up to summit. Many skin tracks in the Slate Creek drainage, but partner and I put in a solid trench. Thank you SnowAlien for the intel.
|2016-03-13||Route: Boxcar couloir
Info: Approached from Cross TH. Greg and I ascended Boxcar couloir as conditions looked favorable so I later skied it. Calf to knee deep consolidated powder in the couloir with one windloaded spot early on which we avoided on climbers left. Traversed the bowl and went to the summit. The summit gully was a lot of snow, slowly turning to corn on the edge of rocks, and later provided the best turns of the day. Scrambled last 40 feet, which are mostly dry. Skies Dawson line. Greg descended broad gully towards Gladstone saddle and we regrouped under Boxcar apron. RT under 11 hours. TR will be forthcoming once I get photos from Greg ;) We followed some faint skin tracks in the trees and made our own. Trailbreaking wasn't too tedious. CAIC rating was technically yellow that day bc of wet slides, but went Green on next day.
|2015-10-10||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: Snow from 12,500 ft to the summit. I used microspikes un the last 200 ft.
|2015-09-29||Route: North Slopes
Info: I came down this route from the El Diente traverse. It was free of snow. Much easier to descend than the Diente slopes.
|2015-09-29||Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Info: A tough traverse. Unlike other reports, I didn‘t find any troublesome snow areas. Only on the Diente ascent did I use my axe a few times. Really, after having done Capitol recently, I would say that the Diente/Wilson traverse plus its ascents and descents was harder than Capitol by itself. Here‘s a link to some footage of the narrows from my Go Pro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUxIXLNzIt4
|2015-09-28||Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Info: Great trail. No snow. Excellent camping near Navajo Lake. Aspens are off the hook right now!
|2015-09-24||Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Info: Climbed El Diente > Mt Wilson from Kilpacker. We stayed on the ridge for 90% of the traverse peak to peak. Snow/hardpack on the north side standard route for El Diente. Snow later in the traverse descending in front of Mt. Wilson, near the north slope trail. Snow sections are 2 to 3 inches deep with hardpack surface, ice bottom layer. You really need spikes. These areas are exposed. We did the standard route climbing El Diente descending a class 4 ridge to connect our traverse. Stay on the ridge as much possible in the traverse! Loaded shelves with loose rock if you contour below.
|2015-09-17||Route: Kilpacker Approach
Info: Snow melted out considerably where exposed to sun. Traction would have been appreciated on this day, climber who summited on 9/18 indicated snow avoidable.