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Mt. Wilson  
Report
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-08-31  Northeast Ridge  Climbed from Rock of Ages and didn‘t run into any snow until 14000‘. We took traction devices and ice axes but never took them out. Did the entire climb in approach shoes. The small out of abow is well packed from boot traffic. The summit block area was dry. dpage   2014-08-31  0     Edit Delete 
2014-08-29  Kilpacker Approach  Climbed El Diente and Mt Wilson via Kilpacker. El Diente via regular south slopes route. Mt Wilson via the "Low Traverse" (per several trip reports found on 14ers.com.) Trip reports info for Mt Wilson were right on. Snow made things a little more interesting. Climbed too high in left gulley before crossing 2nd rib- made it a little more interesting than necessary. Shasta Locales   2014-08-30 8  2    Edit Delete 
2014-08-25  Kilpacker Approach  Kilpacker Basin approach, saw Colorado Fourteeener Initiative truck at trailhead, and CFI staff camped at the lower of the waterfall camps on N side of creek. Kilpacker basin is snow free, south facing coular on Mt. Wilson is free of snow. very few and small snowfields left in Kilpacker basin. Still Ice Axe was useful for glissading and snow crossings. We did not have crampons, they are unneccesary right now on this approach. jaquetcj   2014-08-26  0     Edit Delete 
2014-08-03    A couple of snowfields are still present during the talus and scree approach to the southwest gullies on Mt. Wilson, with the snow staying very hard throughout my time on the mountain (it was mostly cloudy). I recommend using at least the lower-angle snow fields to avoid having to walk on the talus and scree, but bring microspikes and an axe just in case, especially if you choose to use the higher-angle snow fields. No snow in the gullies used to access the summit. When in the gullies, hug the adjacent rock walls which will make smoother both the ascent and descent. Tony1   2014-08-04 2     Edit Delete 
2014-07-26  Kilpacker Approach  We climbed Mt Wilson via the Kilpacker route on Sat July 26th. The scree approach is as long as it looks, there were still large snow fields in the gully leading up to the summit scramble. Bring crampons and an ice ax in order to avoid the sketchy scree, which is unstable. In fact, we used the snow fields on the approach and on the way down. JenGa   2014-07-31  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-19  Northeast Ridge  Mostly snow-free but still a couple of gullies where you will need an ice axe, or you can bypass the snow above or below adding a bit of time to your climb. Phill the Thrill   2014-07-21 2     Edit Delete 
2014-07-05  Northeast Ridge  Seen from Rock of Ages saddle - WSN   2014-07-07 1  1    Edit Delete 
2014-07-04  Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse  Traversed from El Diente. A few patches of snow along the way, most were completely avoidable, and those that weren‘t were easily traversed without crampons/ice axe (which we did have). The descent down the standard route back to Navajo Basin had a few large patches of snow, but all easily avoidable. You could use them for a glissade, but they were a bit out of the way of the standard trail. thebeave7   2014-07-07  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-29  Northeast Ridge  Was able to summit Mt. Wilson without crossing any snow up high. If you choose your route carefully, you can skirt the two snow-filled chutes prior to the summit ridge. tvicari   2014-07-01 3  2    Edit Delete 
2014-06-22  Northeast Ridge  Picture of the ridge rob runkle   2014-06-24 1  1    Edit Delete 
2014-06-21  Northeast Ridge  Used my crampons and axe on some of the snow. Did some postholeing as things warmed up. Others did the traverse, but I ran out of time. Hope the pictures help. Dan_Suitor   2014-06-24 4     Edit Delete 
2014-06-21  Northeast Ridge  Still plenty of snow in the silver pick basin, and also Navaho basin. You can easily avoid snow on the standard route slopes, if you focus on staying mostly on rocks, and gaining almost all the way to the ridge. Gain high, and watch for cairns just under the ridge. This is above the standard route, and is solid class 3, but it avoids most snow, and is a fun way to the summit. I was able to make the complete return trip in trail shoes, no crampons. Recommended crampons for accent to ROA saddle from the TH mostly. Recommended axe for snow travel, multiple traverses, and glissade. rob runkle   2014-06-23  0  2    Edit Delete 
2014-06-20  Kilpacker Approach  Still plenty of snow in the basin. Snow starts just above the waterfall, so you still have to walk the miles and miles on ankle twisting rock. But, the basin is pretty full, so it is easier up high. Did not make the summit by this side, but it seems that the class 4 and class 2+ Options both has enough snow up the gully to make for reasonable climb. Recommend crampons and axe. rob runkle   2014-06-23  0     Edit Delete 
2014-05-10  Navajo Lake Approach  Basic info- The north sides of MT. Wilson and El Diente have lots of snow and will be in for skiing/snowboarding/climbing for a while this season. Lots of new snow to create am avalanche problem over the next few days Technical info- Weather •Weather Description: Mostly cloudy for this time period, with very brief periods of sunshine on 5/9, 5/10, & 5/12 (no sun on 5/11). Breezy to very windy for most of this time period. Variable new snow fell in the drainage. I would estimate between 6" and 12" new but with the amount of wind judging exact snowfall was a challenge. Ridge top winds came out of the southwest with valley winds running directly west at 11,000‘. Temps probably never got above freezing for the four days we were up there. The wind chill definitely did not. Snowpack •Snowpack Description: Interesting mix of snow conditions. Still a lot of decomposing snow present on 5/9 and 5/10 above 11,000‘ mixed with sections of frozen melt freeze crust. Lots of new snowfall and wind drifting on 5/11. New drifts present this morning on primarily the east side of the compass but with many sections of the snow surface above treeline scoured to the pre-storm melt-freeze/dust layer crust while other sections were drifted 12"-18" deep. New snow seemed to be bonding moderately well with no cracking or collapsing or natural/human triggered activity noted in the area today (5/12) after the storm moved through the area. The north face of Mt. Wilson was comprised of a surface dust layer in places. In other places it was covered in newish decomposing snow and windslabs on 5/10 but this was noted before the storm came through and we did not go up high besides crossing the Rock of Ages saddle after the last two days‘ storm cycle. Avalanches •Avalanche Description: While skiing the north face of Mt. Wilson from Navajo Basin I triggered one wind slab with a slope cut and another partner triggered another wind slab with a ski cut. Both were expected releases and no one was caught in the slides (both D1/R1 but big enough to carry one over cliffs on 5/10). The weak layer culprit appeared to be the most superficial dust layer in the basin recently. Lots of new snow since then. I would probably give anything in the area a day or two of sunshine and warm weather before venturing into couloirs in the area. taylorzs   2014-05-12  0  4 2  Edit Delete 
2013-09-21  Northeast Ridge  Significant snow on the mtn above 13k feet. Luckily someone had been up recently and there was a nice boot track all the way to the top otherwise I wouldn‘t know where to go. This track may be more of a winter route as it stays left and intersects the ridge way left of the summit at a notch (at the top of a couloir). We didn‘t bring any traction or an axe but it would be a good idea to have them. I thought of doing El Diente by the Class 4 route and then the traverse but bagged it given the snow. I‘ve included a couple of shots showing these routes for those who are interested. jimmtman   2013-09-22 4  1    Edit Delete 
2013-06-28  Kilpacker Basin  All snow fields avoidable. Hot, dry and mosquitos - wow and only June! Wanderlust   2013-07-07  0       
2012-06-24  Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse  We ascended El Diente via the North Buttress route, traversed to Wilson, and descended the standard route back to Navajo Basin. North Buttress--almost entirely dry. There were a few snow patches above the fourth bench that made things a bit sketchy and wet, but we were able to navigate around/through them without snow gear. Took the alternate route to the right to attain the ridge crest, which was replete with 4th class rock but solid. No need for any snow gear. Traverse--also almost entirely dry. A few patches to cross through/just under on the north side of the traverse just east of El Diente‘s summit. Snow is present, but avoidable with some route-finding when passing the gendarme just before the last dirt gully (shortly after the crux and knife edge). One more patch at the base of the last dirt gully can be avoided by dropping down. Again, snow gear is not necessary. Descent--most of the route is melted out. Crossing the first gully on the way down involved traversing 10-15‘ of snow. This may be doable without an ice axe, but it‘s safer to use one (I didn‘t use one, but my partner had his and crossed first). Crossed/descended a few mild snowfields further down, and even in mid-afternoon did not post-hole. An axe may be desired, but shouldn‘t be needed for much longer. What little snow there is on these routes will probably be gone in a few weeks. ChrisinAZ   2012-06-26  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-22  Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse  Ascent of the north face of El Diente was a 40 degree snow climb...Crampons and axe mandatory. See Wilson Peak conditions report for approach over Rock of Ages saddle. Got to the ridge and the entire ridge to El Diente was dry apart from one small avoidable snow patch near the summit. Rest of the traverse was dry. Summit pitch on Mount Wilson was fun but downclimbing was a little sketchy. Matt Lemke   2012-06-22  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-21  Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse  I carried ax and crampons the whole day for nought . I climbed from Kilpacker and returned via the gully where the traverse joins the standard route. It is messy with some snow but very doable and better than the alternatives. Nelson   2012-06-21  0  2    Edit Delete 
2012-06-02  Northeast Ridge  Dry up to the upper basin, except some patches. Decent radiation freeze the night before, cool air temps, but snow pack shallow and rotten. Once on the ridge, dry nearly everywhere. Evidence of previous shallow wet-sloughs on Wilson direct and El Diente couloir. Upon return, we watched a hard-slab avalanche on the lower, steepest sections of Wilson "direct". I‘m guessing the snowpack was so shallow, that water percolation from the previous very warm day had got all the way down to the rocks and lubricated the surface. No melt freeze consolidation going on here, be careful! Is the snowpack this poor all over Colorado? SkiAndClimb   2012-06-04 2     Edit Delete 

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