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Mt. Sneffels  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-07-12  From Yankee Boy Basin  Prior report by Ldub 7/3/14 remains good information. Ascended the SW ridge - there‘s a gully with soft snow and ice underneath after you drop down to bypass a gendarme, reascending the gully. Traction and an axe are ideal for this spot. We ended up ascending the gendarme on rock, C4 -low 5 climbing, then cutting across the snow higher. On the standard route, after the notch on the descent, the gully remains full of soft snow/ice. People are bypassing it on the rock rib to the right (climber‘s right on descent), staying out of the gully. Agree it‘s C2+ - C3 on this bypass. The scree descent from the saddle is muddy/wet up high, but dry lower. sunny1   2014-07-13 2  3 2  Edit Delete 
2014-07-11  From Yankee Boy Basin  Some snowfields to cross in the basin. Easily done without any gear. On the class 3 SW Ridge route, there are some snowfields to carefully walk around. On the standard route, you have to cross the snow at the very top of a couloir near the summit which must be done carefully. There are other minor snowfields that are easily crossed/avoided above 13k. ezabielski   2014-07-15  0  2    Edit Delete 
2014-07-03  From Yankee Boy Basin  mostly snow free except for the gullies. We had to make around 5 short snow crossings, most of which were not too bad. The exception to this was by the "small notch" on the ridge. You have to drop about 50‘ and the gully is filled with softer snow. We cross it by hanging on to the rock and taking as few steps in the snow as possible. Felt more like class 4 than class 3 due to trying to avoid the snow. We had to head down fast due to a storm at the summit. The standard route still has a lot of snow in the gullies until the saddle, most of which gets pretty soft. Made for some tricky down climbing. Standard route below the saddle is mostly snow free, but is a loose dirty mess. Not a fun decent. Overall either route is doable, but neither is "easy". know what you‘re doing and watch the weather, the ridge is not a good place to be if it gets bad. Ldub   2014-07-07  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-01  From Yankee Boy Basin  Hiked up from lower TH, some snow to cross in the basin, the first gully has some snow, easily avoidable. There is plenty of snow in the 2nd gully, snow was very firm and icy in the early morning, we used micros and axes for ascent and descent. Some snow after the notch as well but clear near the summit. Snow is melting fast. hilo21   2014-07-06  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-23  From Yankee Boy Basin  Peak had plenty of snow still but it made for epic glissading. The couloir is pretty boot packed and it was a blast with micro spikes. Upper trailhead is not accessible but the hike up from the lower TH wasn‘t bad. Each week that passes should make it even better. Just be safe on the snow. There is the potential for things to go wrong if you slip. Generalcuz   2014-06-23  0  1    Edit Delete 
2014-06-15  From Yankee Boy Basin  We did the Lavender Col from Yankee Boy Basin and found excellent snow conditions both ways. We started at 5:00 am and the snow was firm (like styrofoam!) both on the approach to the Lavender Col and the "scree slope" that leads to the summit. There‘s a cornice on the V notch which is easily avoided by scrambling on the rocks to the right. Just a couple of easy moves. No postholing at all on the way down, and a fun glissade. Attached is a pic of the slope leading to the lavender Col. esagas   2014-06-15 1     Edit Delete 
2014-06-14  NE Couloir from Blaine Basin  I did a solo climb of the NE Couloir of Mt Sneffels as described in the Roach guidebook. I wanted to do the Snake, but was concerned about the Class 4 scrambling to reach the summit, and also about having difficulty finding my way back to Blaine Basin via the East Slopes route as I haven‘t been on the mountain before. That said, the lower Snake looks to be in good condition. Anyway, like a lot of other couloir reports right now, this couloir is fat, I‘d say the upper portion is around 40 degrees. A minor bit of scrambling west at the col at the top of NE Couloir puts you in a broader snow slope from which Lavender Col / Scree Col is visible. Moderate snow slope traversing can bring you to this col where you can take the standard route up. The NE Couloir is shaded from the east and the snow was extremely firm quite late into the morning compared with Blaine Basin. In the afternoon I was able to glissade from 13,400 to almost 12,000 continuously, stopping only to redirect to avoid a few rocks and to give my butt a break. jared_j   2014-06-15  0  2      
2014-06-08  From Yankee Boy Basin  Climbed Sneffels via the standard route today. Significant snow melt since the last conditions report. Patchy snow from the 2WD TH to the 4WD TH with lots of water flowing over the road. I found trekking poles helpful in keeping my feet dry during these crossings. Still significant amount of snow from the 4WD TH to the summit. Made the summit at 7:15 and used crampons from the 4WD TH to the summit. Snow was consolidated and frozen, so crampons and ice ax were a necessity. No troubles climbing the rock on the right side of the V notch to make the last pitch to the summit. Things softened up considerably once the sun hit the snow, but unless you are descending much after 9, I wouldn‘t bother with snowshoes. KTC88   2014-06-08  0     Edit Delete 
2014-05-31  From Yankee Boy Basin  Made it to the lower parking lot in the CRV by 3:30 AM. A few bare spots but pretty much continuous snow from lower trail head to summit. Snow was fairly consolidated and frozen that early in the morning and I made it back to the car before 9 AM so post-holing not a huge issue. Saw some recent slide activity on both sides of the basin. The lower couloir had a couple of recent slides but these were actually better to climb up since the snow was more consolidated. Upper couloir had similar conditions. The "V-Notch" at the top of the upper couloir was completely filled in with snow. I bypassed the V-Notch by going to the right and was easily able to climb over the small ridge with crampons. Notch to summit was a breeze, still plenty of snow on the summit. Coming down I was able to glissade most of the lower gully! Pics: 1. Upper Parking lot 2. Looking down lower gully 3. Looking down upper couloir 4. The V-Notch jrs1965   2014-06-01 4  2    Edit Delete 
2014-05-17  From Yankee Boy Basin  Snow conditions are spring-like below 12,500-ft on sun exposed slopes. Above 12,500 there was a 1-in thick sun crust with unconsolidated powder below on top of the firm layer prior to the storm early this week. Collapsing was noticed in the flats, but no instability was noted ascending the Lavender Col. The Lavender Couloir (SE Aspect) was creamy powder with a slight sun crust near the top of the couloir. The crux exit onto the south face consisted of snow climbing through a chopped out window in the cornice. The exit was much easier than anticipated on mostly ~65 degree snow for a short distance followed by a brief steeper section where I shimmed myself up and over. I was able to ski direct off the summit and into the Lavender Couloir through the same window climbed through. Note in the photo of the face from the summit (#3) a team building an anchor to drop into the Snake Couloir. Just below the team is the window through the cornice to exit/enter the Lavender Couloir. The Birthday Chutes were filled with wet slide debris from prior days. A wet slide was noted from a prior day in the Lavender Col that released midway up and ran to near the base. Road is in good condition and was able to make it to the restroom parking area in a Subaru Outback (8.7-in clearance). jmc5040   2014-05-17 4     Edit Delete 
2013-09-23  From Yankee Boy Basin  The snow has melted from much below the gulley, but the gully itself and Lavendar Col were full of deep (8-12") snow. Will probably melt quickly in coming days. The snow compacted very easily, I don‘t think you could have slid if you tried. We summitted with poles, gaiters, and microspikes. The V-notch was full of snow and slick, - we took 10 minutes to clear snow/ice from holds before attempting a hairy climb. jchapell   2013-09-23  0     Edit Delete 
2013-07-20  From Yankee Boy Basin  Col snow free. AlabamaTLC   2013-07-21  0     Edit Delete 
2013-07-12  From Yankee Boy Basin  On July 12, 2013 we departed the lower trailhead at 8:10 a.m. or so. The route to the base slope was relatively dry after a storm the night before. Footing was easiest to the left of center up the slope to the col. Left at the Col we heard reports of slippery snow up the main gully, we took the narrow gully to the left. It was wet and some loose rocks with snow towards the upper reach of the gully where we took a hook left through a hole in the rock. Navigating to the top from there was dry and good conditions. On the return we past the "hole in the rock" and navigated down through the steeper rocks just past both gullies and snowfields. We had a 13 year old in tow and the route proved to be a good choice. DRAspen   2013-07-13 3  1    Edit Delete 
2013-07-05  From Yankee Boy Basin  Standard Route from Yankee Boy Basin still has snow in the upper couloir you must pass through to get to the top, about a 100ft worth in the steep section. There are steps kicked in here and there, though traction and an axe would be helpful. Two people slipped on it yesterday sliding several feet: I caught one of them, literally before they would have slid into a rock. nyker   2013-07-06  0     Edit Delete 
2013-06-24  Southwest Ridge  Going up the southwest Ridge, it‘s mostly free of snow. What is there is mostly avoidable or bootpacked and hard enough early in the day that‘s it‘s easily negotiable. Going up the standard, the top half of the gully leading to the notch is still mostly filled with snow. Recommend an ice axe and crampons, and on either route, wear a brain bucket. Shawnee Bob   2013-06-24 1  1    Edit Delete 
2013-06-23  From Yankee Boy Basin  The majority of the route was passable rocky scree as expected. The small gully that ascends from 13,5 to 14,000 ft was about 2/3s filled with snow. The snow was packed into steps from previous hikers, but by the late morning it was starting to get soft and easily slid out from under me. Doing this climb without crampons was frankly stupid. The way down took about an hour to get past the snow. Crampons at the very least and an ice axe are recommended for the near future. Falconerd   2013-06-25 2     Edit Delete 
2013-06-11  Southwest Ridge  I climbed the SW ridge today and it is in excellent condition. I had crampons on and was using the ax from 13,150 to 13650. This is about 75% snow. Above that to the summit it was pretty clean. It was very windy today and this kept the snow firm so you really did need the hardware. After you go through the notch at 13,500 you descend on snow and the reascend on snow up to 13,650. All this snow was very firm. I descended the standard route. This is 80% snow and was firm enough that I put the spikes back on. The good news is the notch was pretty much melted out and I got through this pretty much like in summer. I did not have to do the class4 high descent. Nelson   2013-06-11  0  2    Edit Delete 
2013-06-09  East Slopes - from Blaine Basin  Went up the Snake couloir (from Blaine Basin) and the snow was in great shape. Descended via the Lavender Col and the snow was getting really soft, so start early. I saw people ascending the Col at around 11:00 am, way too late! Pic 1 - a close up with Snake Couloir on the right. Pic 2 - Looking down Snake Couloir from the turn past the constriction. Pic 3 - the Lavender Col from Blaine Basin. Pic 4 - SW ridge. esagas   2013-06-10 4  2    Edit Delete 
2013-06-03  From Yankee Boy Basin  Road to lower TH - dry with minor stream crossings; road to upper TH - intermittent snow then full snow higher (no one has gotten up there yet); hike to Blue Lakes Pass - intermittent snow; from upper TH to couloir - snow patches to start then full snow in gulley; soft snow requires crampons and ice axe; the "V" notch (V) is blocked with snow - continue up higher and over rocks to left. --bb--   2013-06-03  0     Edit Delete 
2013-05-24  Southwest Ridge  No snowshoes or skis needed this week on ascent. Melting out fast. Recent dust storms left lots of dirt on the slopes, will speed melt considerably. Started at 11 and snow firm all the way to summit via SW Ridge. Crampons optional, axe essential. Short sections of steep snow and some 4th class rock this time of year on that route. Moderate postholing on the upper slopes via standard route (Lavender Col) on descent. Left summit at 2:00 and down by 3:00. Wentzl   2013-05-24  0     Edit Delete 

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