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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-06-28||Route: Iron Gates
Info: didn‘t climb it (very windy today up there), but the gully up the Iron Gates route is snow free, as is all of Meeker Ridge, a bit wet from the recent rains and dusting of snow though. Upper 2/3 of the Loft still holding snow with a break in the middle over wet slabs. The couloirs on Meeker are thinning out, especially the upper parts, and looking like mixed routes right now.
Info: Did Dreamweaver last Sunday...trail up to treeline was very well packed to Chasm Lake. Snow headed up towards Dreamweaver on the Apron was still soft and post-holey. Saw big avalanches coming off Longs all morning and bombarding the Notch Couloir and Broadway. Parties turned back when they saw these. Reached the base of the couloir after what felt like hours of slogging and started climbing. Deep snow in the couloir and no ice on any of the steps. Soloed the entire route up to the final crux step which we roped up for and placed one piece. All the screws and cams I brought weren‘t used. Finished the slog up to the summit and descended the Loft which was terrifying and likely the most objective danger I ever put myself in. Had that steep slope right before the ledge slid we probably would have died. Wet slides were found everywhere. Once below the ledge on the Loft route, easy plunge stepping ensued and the hike out went smoothly. Saw parties on Martha all day and another party descended Iron Gates. Traverse to Meeker Ridge and Iron Gates descent was snowy but doable. Iron Gates descent itself had lots of talus. Photo descriptions: 1. Avalanche coming off Longs 2. Looking towards the Flying Buttress and the apron 3. Sam on the last crux step (the only part we were roped) 4. Loft Route descent
|2014-04-12||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Hey! Went and hiked Mt. Meeker via the Loft route today. Had pleasant weather with light winds. Sun behind the hazy clouds was very nice through the morning into early afternoon. Kept the snow from softening up (which could have been detrimental). Nonetheless, we hiked up the main trail which is boot packed basically all the way to above treeline. Microspikes/crampons helpful, hard pack snow. Headed up to Chasm lake. One large snowfield under Mt. Washington -- solid but has had recent running water going over it. Snow field all the way up the loft was solid (we followed fellow hiker footsteps which was awesome! Stair climbers!). Top of the loft was sketchy, we didn‘t feel comfortable at all. Took the standard route on the ledge and up. Crossed the ridge of Meeker and came down between the iron gates and headed out. Was a challenging hike but was worth it. Snow conditions were great today. No recent signs of slides. Can stay on rocks in a lot of areas as well avoiding snow.
|2013-06-29||Route: Iron Gates
Info: The Iron Gates route is snow free all the way to the summit and has been for the last couple weeks. Met some guys who climbed the Meeker Ridge route and it is also apparently snow free. Saw a number of people climbing the Loft but it looked like there was still a fair bit of snow in it. Unfortunately, did not get the chance to meet any of them and ask about gear/conditions. Someone had signed the Meeker summit register that morning before we summited and mentioned they were doing the grand slam...I hope they were able to do it before the midday storms rolled in.
|2012-10-20||Route: Iron Gates
Info: Woah it was completely dry. FYI the route up to the loft looked like it had some snow and ice. The trail to chasm lake was dry. Maybe some little patches of snow on trail or beneath the talus. Basically just like summer scrambling! The wind was different at different times and at different places on the mountain. Some of the strongest/most sustained wind of the day was at the beginning of the knife edge, so we ended up turning around there. Believe the hype! Amazingly beautiful.
|2012-06-23||Route: Iron Gates
Info: Meeker Ridge->Meeker->Longs->Pagoda->Storm Peak B Dry or avoidable snow; no gear used. Iron Gates: Dry, class 2+ talus hop. Meeker Ridge to Meeker: Dry, exposed class 3, obvious route-finding. Solid rock. Not fun with wind. Upper Clark‘s arrow route: One c4 move, mostly c2+/3. One snow patch past the notch: bypass left (downhill) before joining Homestretch. The Loft "couloir" looked mostly dry with small, avoidable patches. Homestretch: Dry, more like exposed c2+. Route to Pagoda: Descended left at base of Homestretch before cutting back right beneath the Narrows cliffs (c2). Aimed for the saddle and encountered a sizable hidden cliff band - moved left (after getting cliffed out trying other routes) to descend a large, prominent gully (c3). Moved right (towards saddle) below major cliffs and above minor ones before a talus hop from the saddle up Pagoda (c2). The re-ascent of Longs is annoying. Reverse the route but climb a left-angling weakness to intersect the Keyboard of the Winds ridge, which can be followed to the top of the Trough (exposed c3). Trough: Dry or easily avoided snow. Loose c2/3. Smells like a sewer in spots. Ledges: Dry. Moderately exposed 2/3. The bulls-eyes are pretty hard to miss. Keyhole to Storm and down: c3, annoying talus hop. Bypass towers on the right side. Lingering snow to avoid on the descent as they hide leg-breakers. Other obs: Notch Couloir is in with a dry chimney. Small snow patches on Broadway. Dreamweaver is pretty much out. Nothing in Martha.
Info: Trail clear of snow most of the way. Snowfield was very hard in early a.m., so avoided it by climbing class 3/4 rock to climber‘s left. Some very icy snow on the ledge, ice ax & crampons or microspikes/yaktrax advised. On descent, snowfield had softened slightly on top but still icy and rock hard underneath, used crampons for about 1/2 of snowfield (past the steepest rock), then downclimbed on rock the remainder of the way.
|2012-05-03||Route: Iron Gates
Info: Very cool route. Having done the keyhole route up Longs numerous times, I enjoyed the shorter mileage up the iron gates to the summit of Meeker (~10mi). There are still some lare drifts below treeline but above it is dry. The morning I went up (May 3) it had snowed the night before but it all melted by that afternoon. Take care on the knife edge. Glad I brought crampons as it was wet with snow. I would not have attempted it in just my boots. If you do it anytime soon, take crampons just in case. Descended via the snowfield below the loft. If you do this, be sure not to miss the ramp as I did. You‘ll get stuck doing some dangerous down climbing otherwise.
Info: Patchy snow to Chasm Junction, trail finding can be difficult in the dark (we were 15 minutes past the jct toward Granite Pass before we realized we‘d missed it). Lots of snow in the snowfield below the Loft; pretty much solid from the top of the Loft to the Chasm Lake privy. Dreamweaver is in excellent snow/mixed conditions: firm snow, decent ice in the steps, and minimal bare rock. Get an early start though because the descent off the loft was prettty soft by 1030.
Info: Snow in the couloir was in great shape but softens up quickly in the morning sun. Snow patches up to Chasm Lake. Route cruxes were mostly rock with a little ice. Route was stepped out. Descent via the loft is the best option.