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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-08-27||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: There are still some various precarious large boulders at the top of the hour glass that could do some serious damage if knocked loose. On the way up the rope started at the bottom of the hourglass constriction (the hard spot) with a section of rope flaked next to it on the ground in a pool of water. The first rope isn't perfect but has knots tying off any bad spots where the core is cut or exposed. At the top of the first rope there is now another rope about 20 yards up and right that looks to be in great condition. On the summit a fellow climber said he had clipped the rope at the bottom of the hourglass into the first rope to let it dry out and on the way back down I carried it to the bottom of the first rope and double fishermened them together. This section of rope has some sections where the sheath is damaged but the core is not exposed and with the new extension the rope reaches much further almost to the very bottom of the gully. Disclaimer, I've been outdoor Trad/alpine climbing for only 2 years but with 100+ hours of professional training so my judgement is of course not a fact but simply my opinion on the matter. Any questions, feel free to Message me.
|2016-08-27||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: We started around 6:30 am and encountered some frozen ground and frosty rocks in the morning in the first gully, but nothing of concern. The little water that was flowing in the hourglass was avoidable in the choke - but others climbers noted it was icy earlier in the morning. Climbed the left side of the upper hourglass - dry. Came down the right side - water was avoidable. Did not use the ropes going up and didn't need to use them coming down, but upon inspection, there were some nicks and a little fraying. The anchor looked good. The purple rope hanging through the narrowest part of the hourglass had been reattached. No snow.
|2016-08-21||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: We got an inch of hail Saturday night so we delayed our start until 8:30 am to allow it to burn off. Conditions were great, a little wet in the morning, but not too bad. There was a decent amount of water trickling down the hourglass but stepping over to the 5th class section was completely dry. Photo is from our way down in the afternoon.
|2016-08-16||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: We summited Little Bear via the Hourglass yesterday morning under mostly clear skies and downright beautiful weather. I don't have much to add to the most recent report submitted by someone else two days ago, but it is worth noting that Little Bear, Blanca, and Ellingwood Point all received snow during the afternoon from a nice little stationary thunderstorm as we were hiking back down the Lake Como road. There was enough snow that I could easily see it from highway 17 north of Alamosa. I'm sure this will have mostly melted out within 24 hrs, but it could complicate the climb through the Hourglass for the next few days and perhaps slightly increase the flow of water, which was minimal - but still a factor - when we were up there. I'd be interested to hear how the conditions were today (8/17).
|2016-08-15||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Hourglass has still some water flowing through it. The picture doesn't show the extent of water, but there is continuous water flowing through the hour glass which is more than what is visible from the picture. Also on the descent there is a cairned route from the top that takes you directly to the start of bottom anchor point, I am not sure why people don't take it, this avoids the top 300 ft of the ugly gully directly above the hourglass (where most of the rocks that are being dropped in the hourglass come from.) and sticks to climber's right (facing downward direction) The route is on the south side of the immediate summit. I wish I could have taken some pictures coming down. I do have a GPX file though.
|2016-07-18||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Summer conditions all around. Maybe have to take one step in snow. Just a trickle of water on the hourglass, again, avoidable. Here is a time lapse of my hike for reference: https://youtu.be/AYNg8r1AT5c
|2016-07-17||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: The hourglass has a small snowfield still below it as noted in a previous CR. It is easily by-passable on either side. The hourglass itself had a tiny but of water, but is easily avoidable. There are now 4 ropes total. The typical one hanging from a central anchor that has 3 ropes partially entangled in eachother. There is also a new rope anchored higher up and to the right side of the gully above the constriction. (See picture) The central ropes look to be in very bad shape, have numerous knots in an attempt to "repair" sections with core damage. Most notably, the orange color rope is cut about 3/4 of the way through not far from the anchor point. As usual, I would NOT trust these ropes at all. Once above the hourglass, lots of loose rock ready to fall. My partner and I stuck far climber's left and found it a bit more "solid" up there. (Just as Roach recommends) It's a bit more exposed in places (Roach notes it can go class 5 in areas) but I personally found it the best route to minimize knocking rocks down and staying on my feet.
|2016-07-16||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Climbed the West Ridge/Southwest Face route this morning own essentially summer conditions. Awesome conditions and bluebird skies all day. MINIMAL water coming down the hourglass with no storms over the last two days. There is a small patch of snow at the base of the hourglass, but it is avoidable with some route finding. Per usual, the ropes aren't in great condition and I wouldn't trust them, but they could come in handy for a handhold here and there. Looks like someone set up another rope/rappel on the climbers right above the usual anchor. It looked steeper over there so we went to the left so I have no idea on the status of that rope. For the record, the climbers left seemed much easier coming down once we could see the cairns, but the best left route was more to the left than we thought it would be and took a spicier route up the middle of the upper face on the way up. The mosquitos were absurd at Lake Como even with copious amounts of bug spray.
|2016-07-10||Route: Northwest Face
Info: There is a small, avoidable pocket of snow midway up the NW face, but otherwise the route is bone-dry. The traverse to Blanca and Ellingwood was also dry and solid. On our descent we forced a 50m glissade above Crater Lake so we could justify our decision to carry axes, but they're really not necessary at this point in the season.
|2016-07-09||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Gully from Como Lake road is clear of snow. Traverse on ridge toward Hourglass is clear of snow. There are a few snowfields below the Hourglass.. One directly below. But you can pretty easily get around it either to the left or to the right before entering the Hourglass. We went around to the right of it (south) before climbing the Hourglass. The Hourglass is relatively dry now, with only a little water running down the middle. (probably because of the lack of recent rain). No spontaneous falling rock when we went up, maybe we were lucky.
|2016-07-04||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Climbed LB on 07/04. Conditions were really good. The traverse was a little tricky b/c the cairns are small and I started really earlier so it was still dark. There was a little snow that you needed to traverse below the hour glass. I climbed to the top of the snow and made sure I had good holds on the rock while stepping on the snow. I did not use crampons or an axe. The top of the snow lead me directly to the bottom of the hourglass. The hourglass is very wet but the left side was much more dry so I stayed as far left as possible. I used the rope once or twice, did not rely on it fully however. Be safe and have fun!
|2016-07-01||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Lake Como Rd is in fine shape, insanely rocky and technical as always. Started hiking just before Jaws 1 around 10200ft. The approach gully from Como Lake to the SW face is completely snow free and just dirt. Same for the traverse over to the Hourglass, snow is a non-issue. There are still several large snowfields at the base of the Hourglass. We were able to avoid them all by staying to climbers left into the base of the Hourglass. There is a fair amount of water still flowing down the Hourglass so expect some wet cold hands if you climb the gut. As of 7/1 several ropes existed in the Hourglass, one had a fairly large core shot about halfway down (green if I recall) and the orange rope had a smaller shot about 2/3 of the way down. Don't use the ropes on the ascent without being able to inspect them, as damage already exists and more could easily happen any day. The upper slope above the Hourglass was snowfree so take extreme care with rockfall. We did not do the traverse due to constant storms and tons of rain, but it looked snowfree and in good shape otherwise.
|2016-06-18||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Attempted the hourglass route on Little Bear, started around 2:30AM from about 10,300' on the road. The lower portion of the road has improve *a little* (evidence of grater/bulldozer moving rocks around). The gulley from the lake had intermittent snow to the notch. The traverse from the notch to the base of the hourglass is almost 100% dry, some small snowfields that can be avoided. Snow was rock solid all the way up until ~9:30AM. The hourglass itself has snow from the base to about where the lower section of ropes are anchored in. We decided to call off attempting the summit at about 13,600' due to ice bridges (snow in the hourglass in some parts had a 3 foot gap of air/running water underneath the snow layer, as well as verglas on the left side). I certainly didn't want to stick around to experience what happens when those pockets of ice/snow collapse and begin to slide down the lower portion/slabs of the hourglass.
|2016-05-30||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Still a lot of snow. Icy in places in the hourglass, but no ice bulge requiring special maneuvering. Snow was pretty soft in most of the hourglass and gully. We used crampons for much of the traverse. Lots of post holing in the early afternoon on the far side of the lake and on the traverse. Nice glissade through the gully and no hidden rocks coming down. No new avy debris by noon today, but gully, traverse and hourglass all had evidence of pinwheels or rollerballs from previous days. One skier descent through the hourglass.
|2016-05-23||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Snow started patchy a little less than a mile to Lake Como, became constant and deep around the lake, bring some sort of floatation. Evidence of small wet slides in the area, get the weather right and there may be more. The hourglass was in great shape- about ideal conditions. There were a few bulges of ice that were easily avoided. The traverse across was spotty with snow, you can mostly rock hop or stay on the ridge. Be careful out there!
|2016-03-19||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Got really lucky with the Hourglass, but who knows how long these conditions will last. The gully is pretty solid, was able to kickstep into someone else's butt mark (thank you, previous glissader!) and for the most part avoid sugar. The back side of the ridge is snow free until past the second notch, not far from the hourglass apron. From there the snow was solid up and into the hourglass. Lots of kickstepping fun. The hourglass was great, solid snow up and even past the Y. I went to the right and managed an almost continuous snow line all the way to the summit. There are 2 modest ice bulges in the hourglass, but both can be skirted. However, I don't really know how or why those things form so who knows, they could be the size of a bus by now for all I know. Weather was clear and crisp. The wind got pretty steady and cold at the top. It should be noted I got an early start. Summited at 0830, back my camp at the lake at 1100. Not sure how much things might have softened up after that.
|2016-03-17||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Parked at 8,200 ft at the intersection of 21st and Grant only a short way up the 4WD rd. (This is about 1 mile BELOW the TH, Not sure if this is legal or not - I just put a note on my car and hoped for the best) You will defiantly need high clearance, more than 8" to make it up this road The route is mostly snow free and NO winter gear was used except for waterproof boots of course, although others may find microspikes and gaiters useful in a few spots. Included a couple pics, Upper hour glass looks very thin, and the little I could see of Blanca looked windswept. Beware...This route is a BEAST...
|2016-03-05||Route: West Ridge and Southwest Face
Info: Summited on Saturday March 5, 2016 via Hourglass. Road became impassable just below Jaws .5. Made it to 9730 in stock Jeep Wrangler. A stuck 4Runner blocked road at that point. Hiked to Lake Como. Some in our party wore just boots, other snowshoes. It was soft and we postholed quite a bit especially just before lake. Lake Como was frozen solid, soft drifted snow all around. Snow was sugary in lower couloir. Used snowshoes from Lake Como to halfway up it. South face was mostly clear just below ridge but solid snow to base of Hourglass - used crampons to cross this section and all the way to summit. Again, snow was not bad in Hourglass but soft in places, sugary in others and icy elsewhere.
|2016-02-14||Route: Northwest Face
Info: Solid trench in place up the road and several parties there this weekend. NW face has mostly sloughed but there are still a few soft spots. We went left of the hand and Grimpeur led a mini M4 pitch - maybe avoidable right of the hand? Stayed right of the main snow gully and slogged up to the ridge (accessed on the left side of the gully). Ridge to LB was spicy with wind but mostly dry. Descent down hourglass was springlike and fast. The slope traverse was still somewhat frozen but I‘d recommend not touching it after noon. Tension cracks and iffy once it heats up. N gully was powdery but mostly stable on climber‘s right.
|2016-01-23||Route: South-West Ridge
Info: Made it to about a mile below the TH in a Subaru Forester and found a very reasonable route through treeline across Tobin Creek. Right after the creek crossing I went east and gained an obvious ridge that took me to the main SW ridge. Some areas of deep snow were sporadic and then none above treeline until the Mama Bear Traverse. There was a good amount of snow on the traverse and it was very loose and dry. If you feel comfortable of class 3/4 terrain it should not deter you from attempting this route. I did not bring snowshoes. I used an ice axe at the end of the traverse but never put on my crampons. Over all I would say this route is in good shape and is a "safe" way to climb LB right now.