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Info: Climbed Martha yesterday. I had hoped for some solid sticks after last weeks snow, and a few days of freeze/thaw cycle. My hunch was rewarded. There were 3 solid ice steps that will take screws and we got 2 good screws in at the crux. Good snow in between, and another good day in the mountains.
|2014-06-20||Route: From Longs Peak ranger station
Info: Nice quick hike with my uncle and cousin from Georgia. There were not many people out and about, but I am sure this is going to change soon as the weather was perfect today. The parking lot at the trailhead was only about half full at around 7:30 AM, but was pretty just overfilling when we got back to the cars at 3:00. There was very little snow going the Jim‘s Grove route. What snow there was is easily avoided.
|2014-05-04||Route: Martha's Couloir
Info: Martha‘s is in good shape but probably not for much longer. It is melting out fast. The first rock step has no ice and is quite melted out, making for a junky mixed climb to get through it. The second step has a bit of ice but it mostly rock. The crux is about 15 feet of WI3 located in the expected place at the 3rd step. You are forced to climb far left since the right side of the ice is melted out and consists of nothing i would consider solid. The ice will take a couple screws that seemed good. There was water running to the right and possibly under portions of the ice as well. Everything else is good solid snow if you get going on it early. And as always watch out for grapefruits being unleashed by melting and other climbers above you. I came within feet of taking one to the face. A good amount of ice and rocks tumbling down should be expected. Try to situate your belays accordingly. Dreamweaver looks to be close to coming into shape as well, with a good amount of ice visible near the top.
|2014-04-26||Route: From Longs Peak ranger station
Info: Bootpack from ranger station on up. No snowshoes. Recommend taking the switchbacks up and the shortcuts straight down (as long as snow is present). Mostly good stepped snow and rock up through Martha. Optional thin ice at a couple steps. Short crux step at the top of the choke has ice/stemming that‘ll take short screws. Used TCU 0, BD .5-1, 1 x screw, and a few double and single lengths for slinging horns at the belays. Simul-ed the lower part, 3 pitches through the choke, brief simul the upper part. Felt like 5.easy, WI2+ at the moment. East slopes descent (class 2) was mostly dry with a few small snow patches.
Info: Recent parties made a lot of nice steps in the unconsolidated snow which made travel easier. All the constrictions but the last were dry. Personally found the last dry step to be trickier than the WI3-(?) "crux" at the top. The snow on the upper part of the route didn‘t seem deep enough to slide, lots of rocks poking out (just my opinion and may change soon). I wasn‘t particularly worried about the snow at the base either. Just that one often-traveled slope on the way to Chasm Lake made me a little nervous. Descended by boulder hopping down the west side of the north ridge (east side had weird snow made walking hard).
|2013-01-20||Route: East Ridge
Info: Just like Longs - dry as a bone. Went up the east ridge and came down the north ridge. Dry as a bone on both. Pic 1 shows MLW. Pic 2 shows Longs and Pic 3 shows the Loft for anyone who is interested.
|2013-01-05||Route: longs peak east
Info: snow-wise it is very reasonable for winter conditions. no snowshoes, gaiters or microspikes needed. pretty bare overall above 12,000‘.
Info: Ascended from the Longs/LW saddle after running out of time on the Cables Route with Kiefer and oldschool; descended straight to Chasm Junction. No snowshoes needed. Microspikes may be helpful but not needed. The side from the boulderfield is fairly simple while the Chasm side requires more care (snow covered gaps between blocks, drifted areas). The trail can be a bit difficult to find around the Battle Mountain/Jim‘s Grove turnoff.
|2011-05-16||Route: from Longs East TH
Info: The conditions today were about the same as dswink reported Longs conditions on 5/9. I carried my snowshoes all the way to the Chasm Lake trail junction (about where this pic was taken) and stashed them there. Up to Lady Washington‘s summit was a direct route west from there crossing talus and snowfields. It was a sunny bluebird morning, and descending from the summit at 11:30 I only postholed to my knees a couple times descending, taking extra caution in the snow-drifted talus. Put the snowshoes on at the trail junction for the rest of the hike down but they gave more benefit for traction than flotation.