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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-08-14||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Climbed Wetterhorn on a beautiful Sunday morning. We did Sneffels the day before. I have a stock 2000 Tundra with BFG ATs and took the Alpine loop from Ouray to the Wetterhorn trailhead. Contrary to the previous poster I thought this was an AWESOME experience. My Tundra performed well, although at its limit, in 4x4 low. Way more fun than going up and around on pavement. TH to summit took us 2:30 with a relaxed pace. First section of 3rd class was a piece of cake. The final pitch to the summit was super fun. However, I thought it had to be 4th class. If that is 3rd class than my idea of what is 4th class is completely wrong. Great mountain and probably my favorite so far. It was our 30th 14er!
|2016-07-30||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Did the Wetterhorn/Uncompahgre combo from the Matterhorn Trailhead. TH to the summit of Wetterhorn took 2hr10min, summit of Uncompahgre was reached at 5hr08min and roundtrip took 7hr16min. Lots of mileage but a great way to hit both peaks. Congrats to all the warriors that slugged it out to do the combo. Perfect summer conditions on both peaks. Trail that links the two is easy to follow. I was a little disappointed with Wetterhorn. I was expecting a lot more exposure based on reading other reports. Going through the "V" notch on Sneffels gave me more butterflies than any part of Wetterhorn. I decided to drive back to Ouray via the Alpine Loop, what a mistake. It took nearly 2 1/2 hours to go 25 miles and tested my Tacos ability. Not recommended.
|2016-07-15||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Started at 5AM from lower trailhead, summited at 8, back at my car at 10:30. Absolutely gorgeous conditions - I was in short sleeves 90% of the hike. Almost no wind at the summit. Two snow fields to cross, the first about 75 yards wide, the second about 50 yards. One about 200 yards below the yellow dirt and the second one just below it. Neither gave me or my hiking boots any problems on the ascent or descent. Definitely saw more marmots (about 30) than people (about 20)
|2016-07-13||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: The trail is in good condition and the snow that you have to cross on foot is easy to traverse with no signs of postholeing at this point. When you get closer to the summit and the climb becomes more technical, it is a good idea to try and follow the cairns to find the easiest route to the top. The route was not busy when we climbed it, which made it much easier to complete the ascent.
|2016-07-03||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: A great weekend to be in the San Juans. Weather conditions made the summit a sock-in, but below the summit was clear and sunny. 3 snowfields- first was just below the ridge and required a traverse of about 50 yards. Footholds were good and snow was not terribly deep. Evidence of post-holing but absolutely zero trouble and no micros needed. Second was on the red dirt area. Not very deep and will likely be gone within a week or two, but also good footholds. Third was at the prow, which was somewhat uphill but again, great footholds and no micros needed. Rest of the route was clear. Creek crossings ran fairly average- shallow but faster than I experienced last August.
|2016-06-30||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: I took the shortcut approach across the plateau from Matterhorn Pass (from Uncompaghre). The high traverse at 12400ft was snow free but very wet and muddy. I caught the trail around 12300ft just before it climbs into the rocks. There were several small patches of snow along the trail in the rocks that needed to be crossed, some were very soft and postholey so take care crossing these. Once out of the rock garden the rest of the trail has a few short snow fields blocking progress, all of which have good foot steps through them so no gear was necessary. The final approach to the ridge is still guarded by a steep snowfield, but that can easily be bypassed by climbing to the ridge early. Once on the scrambling sections of the peak the only patch of snow that needs to be crossed is just past the Prow at the base of the scramble move up the rock wall.
|2016-06-25||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Some snow crossings starting below the saddle. Very short lived. Above 13.5K some minor ice on the route that can be absolutely avoided - remember that under the snow you can find ice. Great day.
|2016-06-25||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Road to trail head is clear all the way. Trail still has some snow fields to cross, but still pretty firm and minimal post holing. Other than the snow fields (mostly before reaching the yellow-colored dirt), trail is clear, rock was dry, lots of folks in the high country. Returning to the trail head noonish saw mud in the basin trails -- slippery and easy to slide and fall if you are not paying attention. Wildflowers are coming out - and marmots and picas are everywhere, and happy to explore your pack if left unattended.
|2016-06-17||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: No snowshoes or traction needed. Fair bit of snow between 12k and 13k feet, but nearly all of it was solid to walk on. Upper 1000 vertical feet of SE ridge can be a little dicey moving between gullies that are still filled with snow and the rock ribs - sorry no pictures of these. If you are uncomfortable with crossing 10-20 feet of steep snow that can alternate between hard ice and loose snow, you might benefit from an ax/yaktrax, (most won't feel a need for it). The last 100 vertical ft is snow free. The glissading is fantastic!
|2016-06-15||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Route is clear of snow to just before the summit ridge. Large snowfield covering the ascent to the ridge and patches of snow in the gullies after that.
|2016-05-14||Route: East Face
Info: Didn't climb the face, but got some images of it on the way to Unc. Lots of wet slide debris across the face.
|2015-10-24||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Snow from TH to Summit. 6"-8" of snow until you reach the Wetterhorn trail turn off above tree level. 8"-15" of snow until you reach the rock field. 10"-36" of snow crossing the rock field, gaining the ridge towards the peak. Between 10" - 48" depending on whether you are in a gulley or traversing over to another gulley. 10"-36" of snow in the final summit pitch gulley The snow became fairly wet, amd heavy yesterday due to the nice weather. As the sun was setting, there was a good 2"-3" hard top that began to freeze over the surface and was difficult to travel through when descending towards sunset. Expect more of that on the following Sunday (expected clear/sunny weather).
|2015-10-14||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: TH has some mud; rest of route, prow, and summit dry.
|2015-10-11||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: The trail has a few muddy spots, but is snow-free from TH to summit. The Prow is bone-dry.
|2015-09-25||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Just an FYI, 2nd Street in Lake City is currently closed for construction and you can‘t get through. You can just drive one block back to 3rd and circle back to Engineer Pass that way. Plus, you get to see a little more of old downtown Lake City.
|2015-09-19||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: weather from 9/18-9/20 great. Clouds hit Wetterhorn Friday morning, but were benign. Sat and Sun totally bluebird. All dry on the peak
|2015-09-03||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Started from upper 4WD Matterhorn Trailhead and climbed Wetterhorn. Driving in, the Aspens were just starting to turn. Still mostly green. More fall colors showing here than near Telluride/Wilson Peak two days before. Free of snow and ice, still dry.
|2015-08-21||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: This is my 30th fourteener summit this summer! My goal is to climb them all this summer. You can read more about this hike and others at sunshineof1985.com. Enjoy! Time started: 7:05am at main trailhead End time: 12:30pm? (GPS died, forgot to look at time- sorry!) Time to Summit: 2 hours and 45 minutes Time to Descent: Around 2 hours *GEAR (to bring): Helmet (I didn‘t bring it, but people new to class 3, could use it), bear spray, GPS, extra socks, phone, SPOT Satellite Tracker, Map, Topo Map from 14ers.com, hiking boots with 2 pairs of socks on, long-sleeve, wind-guard/raincoat, light weight puffy coat (didn‘t need), lightweight gloves (didn‘t need), day pack with water sack (64 oz), snacks. *Road Condition: The road is easy until you make a turn up North Henson Road. Alix stopped here, and I was able to take us to the Matterhorn Creek sign (.7 miles short of trailhead). It gets impossible for sedans past this part. *Trail Condition: The trek through the forest is short. Luckily someone etched into the first junction sign which direction to take towards Wetterhorn. Pay attention to the directions at the junctions. The trail gets really skinny which gets obnoxious, but it‘s easy to follow. Once climbing up the side ridge, there is a really long, steep, slippery section of scree (yellow rock). Once past that, the trail is well marked with cairns, but we still paid attention to the directions given by 14ers.com. The last 150 feet are class 3, it‘s steep and you are doing more vertical climbing here; but it‘s doable and easy if you aren‘t consumed by the exposure below. Those afraid of heights, I recommend a helmet here. Also wait your turn going down to avoid rocks falling on people below you.
|2015-08-04||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Conditions were perfect. Summer standard in full effect. Most enjoyable. Quintessential 14er experience.
|2015-07-24||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Wetterhorn was true to its name today, as grey skies covered the whole area throughout my hike and drizzle fell off and on throughout the day without any thundercloud build-up or thunder. I started at 5:27 AM and finished at 11:50 AM, taking it easy all day as this was my third 14er in as many days and I had hiked Uncompahgre from the Matterhorn TH the previous day and San Louis the day before that. I was pretty sore when I awoke, but the beauty of Wetterhorn called me. What a fantastic peak! Be ware of the zillions of marmots in the rock field below the southeast ridge. A few of them just moved their tails off the trail as I passed. I saw several families of mother, father, and pups. There was even one just before the Class 3 section at about 13,200 feet. He didn‘t even budge when I crossed his path. I‘ve climbed 34 14ers and have never seen so many marmots in one area. This is truly the place for marmotophiles. (I feared encountering a vicous, vicious gatekeeper marmot who might ask me the average flight speed of a swallow to allow me to pass. Certainly they wouldn‘t expect you to answer with a European or African swallow... maybe a Violet-Green Swallow, which is the common one at elevation in Colorado?) The Class 3 portion of the climb was a joy to climb. It‘s well marked with cairns. I felt no need at all for a rope. The rock was solid. I could see using a rope for a group of teens or boy scouts, but if you‘ve done any technical climbing, Wetterhorn will seem like an approach route rather than a 5+ climb. It was really fun. Unfortunately, with the weather socked in, I tagged the summit and descended quickly. Be sure to notice the notch in the ridge rib you need to pass through. I found it easily enough on the ascent, but descended below it on the descent, and had to climb a bit back up to find it. If you haven‘t climbed Wetterhorn, put it on your shortlist. (I wouldn‘t recommend climbing this peak in sneakers, which I saw some late-morning hikers attempting. With the rock slick with drizzle, I was very glad to have stiff Vibram soles.)