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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-10-08||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Climbed Wetterhorn's Southeast Ridge then trekked over to Uncompahgre's South Ridge on 10/8/16. There was light snow here and there on the Wetterhorn trail. Pretty manageable without traction the whole way. Once up on the saddle, there was still some snow but not as much. Very little (easily avoidable) snow in the gully up to the prow and on the final class 3 wall (see picture). The route was slushy and muddy with light soft snow coming down.
|2016-09-27||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: route is bone dry. encounter some snow but very minimal. Strange because both Uncomp and Wetterhorn are very dry but the range to the south holds a considerable amount of snow
|2016-09-15||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: I climbed on Thursday the 15th. On Wednesday it rained/snowed pretty hard. This was no problem until I got on to the West facing parts of the ridge above 13,600. No equipment is necessary but on some of the harder parts there were slippery patches and foot placement was very important (i.e. the V notch at 13,700). After you go through the notch just past the prow there were pockets of graupel which made foot placement on the smooth downward sloping slab tricky. On the crux pitch there were more pockets of snow/graupel and some small patches of ice. All of this can be dealt with but it made the last 200 ft. more intense, especially on the way down. As it was on the cold side today and these areas don't get much sun, I doubt if there has been much melting.
|2016-09-04||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: No snow or ice at any point on the trail. Weather cleared up in the afternoon for an afternoon ascent of Uncompahgre.
|2016-08-28||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: We arrived at the upper trailhead the night before. Even though it was raining pretty hard, we had no issues driving .75 mile stretch of 4WD road in a Nissan Frontier truck. Once we got to the end of the road, we were able to find a great campsite beneath some trees. Setting up tent in freezing rain was not fun, it didn't stop raining until about 3am. Started hiking at 5:30 the next morning. As soon as we hit treeline, we saw that all of the surrounding peaks were covered in a blanket of fresh snow. Luckily it wasn't windy and despite overcast skies temperature stayed relatively warm. We didn't encounter snow until we got up to the saddle of Wetterhorn. It was wet and fluffy, I never once felt the need to use microspikes. The traverse after "V" notch and final summit pitch after the Prow was also fine. Did't get to see any views from the summit, everything was socked in clouds. By the time we headed down most of the snow had melted off.
|2016-08-14||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Climbed Wetterhorn on a beautiful Sunday morning. We did Sneffels the day before. I have a stock 2000 Tundra with BFG ATs and took the Alpine loop from Ouray to the Wetterhorn trailhead. Contrary to the previous poster I thought this was an AWESOME experience. My Tundra performed well, although at its limit, in 4x4 low. Way more fun than going up and around on pavement. TH to summit took us 2:30 with a relaxed pace. First section of 3rd class was a piece of cake. The final pitch to the summit was super fun. However, I thought it had to be 4th class. If that is 3rd class than my idea of what is 4th class is completely wrong. Great mountain and probably my favorite so far. It was our 30th 14er!
|2016-07-30||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Did the Wetterhorn/Uncompahgre combo from the Matterhorn Trailhead. TH to the summit of Wetterhorn took 2hr10min, summit of Uncompahgre was reached at 5hr08min and roundtrip took 7hr16min. Lots of mileage but a great way to hit both peaks. Congrats to all the warriors that slugged it out to do the combo. Perfect summer conditions on both peaks. Trail that links the two is easy to follow. I was a little disappointed with Wetterhorn. I was expecting a lot more exposure based on reading other reports. Going through the "V" notch on Sneffels gave me more butterflies than any part of Wetterhorn. I decided to drive back to Ouray via the Alpine Loop, what a mistake. It took nearly 2 1/2 hours to go 25 miles and tested my Tacos ability. Not recommended.
|2016-07-15||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Started at 5AM from lower trailhead, summited at 8, back at my car at 10:30. Absolutely gorgeous conditions - I was in short sleeves 90% of the hike. Almost no wind at the summit. Two snow fields to cross, the first about 75 yards wide, the second about 50 yards. One about 200 yards below the yellow dirt and the second one just below it. Neither gave me or my hiking boots any problems on the ascent or descent. Definitely saw more marmots (about 30) than people (about 20)
|2016-07-13||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: The trail is in good condition and the snow that you have to cross on foot is easy to traverse with no signs of postholeing at this point. When you get closer to the summit and the climb becomes more technical, it is a good idea to try and follow the cairns to find the easiest route to the top. The route was not busy when we climbed it, which made it much easier to complete the ascent.
|2016-07-03||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: A great weekend to be in the San Juans. Weather conditions made the summit a sock-in, but below the summit was clear and sunny. 3 snowfields- first was just below the ridge and required a traverse of about 50 yards. Footholds were good and snow was not terribly deep. Evidence of post-holing but absolutely zero trouble and no micros needed. Second was on the red dirt area. Not very deep and will likely be gone within a week or two, but also good footholds. Third was at the prow, which was somewhat uphill but again, great footholds and no micros needed. Rest of the route was clear. Creek crossings ran fairly average- shallow but faster than I experienced last August.
|2016-06-30||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: I took the shortcut approach across the plateau from Matterhorn Pass (from Uncompaghre). The high traverse at 12400ft was snow free but very wet and muddy. I caught the trail around 12300ft just before it climbs into the rocks. There were several small patches of snow along the trail in the rocks that needed to be crossed, some were very soft and postholey so take care crossing these. Once out of the rock garden the rest of the trail has a few short snow fields blocking progress, all of which have good foot steps through them so no gear was necessary. The final approach to the ridge is still guarded by a steep snowfield, but that can easily be bypassed by climbing to the ridge early. Once on the scrambling sections of the peak the only patch of snow that needs to be crossed is just past the Prow at the base of the scramble move up the rock wall.
|2016-06-25||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Some snow crossings starting below the saddle. Very short lived. Above 13.5K some minor ice on the route that can be absolutely avoided - remember that under the snow you can find ice. Great day.
|2016-06-25||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Road to trail head is clear all the way. Trail still has some snow fields to cross, but still pretty firm and minimal post holing. Other than the snow fields (mostly before reaching the yellow-colored dirt), trail is clear, rock was dry, lots of folks in the high country. Returning to the trail head noonish saw mud in the basin trails -- slippery and easy to slide and fall if you are not paying attention. Wildflowers are coming out - and marmots and picas are everywhere, and happy to explore your pack if left unattended.
|2016-06-17||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: No snowshoes or traction needed. Fair bit of snow between 12k and 13k feet, but nearly all of it was solid to walk on. Upper 1000 vertical feet of SE ridge can be a little dicey moving between gullies that are still filled with snow and the rock ribs - sorry no pictures of these. If you are uncomfortable with crossing 10-20 feet of steep snow that can alternate between hard ice and loose snow, you might benefit from an ax/yaktrax, (most won't feel a need for it). The last 100 vertical ft is snow free. The glissading is fantastic!
|2016-06-15||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Route is clear of snow to just before the summit ridge. Large snowfield covering the ascent to the ridge and patches of snow in the gullies after that.
|2016-05-14||Route: East Face
Info: Didn't climb the face, but got some images of it on the way to Unc. Lots of wet slide debris across the face.
|2015-10-24||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Snow from TH to Summit. 6"-8" of snow until you reach the Wetterhorn trail turn off above tree level. 8"-15" of snow until you reach the rock field. 10"-36" of snow crossing the rock field, gaining the ridge towards the peak. Between 10" - 48" depending on whether you are in a gulley or traversing over to another gulley. 10"-36" of snow in the final summit pitch gulley The snow became fairly wet, amd heavy yesterday due to the nice weather. As the sun was setting, there was a good 2"-3" hard top that began to freeze over the surface and was difficult to travel through when descending towards sunset. Expect more of that on the following Sunday (expected clear/sunny weather).
|2015-10-14||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: TH has some mud; rest of route, prow, and summit dry.
|2015-10-11||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: The trail has a few muddy spots, but is snow-free from TH to summit. The Prow is bone-dry.
|2015-09-25||Route: Southeast Ridge
Info: Just an FYI, 2nd Street in Lake City is currently closed for construction and you can‘t get through. You can just drive one block back to 3rd and circle back to Engineer Pass that way. Plus, you get to see a little more of old downtown Lake City.