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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-08-29||Route: Black gully
Info: Climbed Teakettle this morning. The recent storm left a spattering of snow above 12k - maybe 1". The crux of the day was down climbing from Coffepot to the base of the black gully, only because that entire section contained firm snow and occasional ice on the rocks. We used micro spikes, and I wouldn‘t have done it without them. Not enough snow for more serious traction. I imagine most of the snow will be gone if it stays sunny for a couple days. Considering I scanned a few trip reports looking for gear references, here is what we used: 30m rope, one 0.5 Camalot with shoulder sling for extension (perfect placement about half way up), two double length runners to sling the natural at the summit.
Info: OK, so it is just a cool picture of Teakettle. Conditions? It was wet yesterday.
|2012-08-12||Route: Southeast ridge
Info: Teakettle and coffee pot. Total time of about 7 hours with two experienced partners. Bring your biggest cam ( singular) and a small rope,as well as harness and 30 feet of webbing, there are anchors on both summits but always be prepared to sling your own! No snow on the route at all and super fun classic climbs. Teakettle is an amazing peak that you should do. Scree central
|2012-05-06||Route: Black Gully Direct
Info: Climbed Teakettle on Sunday, 6 May 2012. Road open to within 100 yds of 4WD T.H.; road 50% drifted parking to start of climb; start to upper basin is avoidable snow; upper basin hard a.m. neve; 80% snow line to top of Black Gully, B.G. had 20 ft. of water ice band in a.m. with snow coverage on one side; B.G. to Sandy Gully was solid neve a.m. and noon; upper snowfields were solid neve in a.m and posthole soft nearing noon, 75% snow; summit tower had snow to ridge line, then dry to top. No flotation needed on our climb. Trip report link link for photos and narrative.