Click to Expand
|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
Info: North face is holding a little ice and snow, but can be avoided where necessary when climbing the summit pitch. No need for microspikes. South and East Faces are dry.
|2014-08-30||Route: East Face
Info: The summit pitch (North Face) had snow and ice. It‘s an easy enough lead though.
|2014-07-05||Route: Mill Creek
Info: Main route in decent condition (for Dallas). Very few patches of snow. Maybe 15 feet of snow below crux move but wasn‘t much of an obstacle. Rest of summit pitch was dry. 90 ft rap will place you below the chockstone, but you will need to downclimb snow about 30 feet.
|2014-06-12||Route: North Face
Info: Climbed and skied the north face of dallas peak yesterday. snow holding well. bit of dust layer still making for s--tty skiing down low, but excellent up high. steep turns off the top of ridge.
|2013-08-18||Route: std via Mill Ck
Info: Route is completely dry. Once above the trail on the grass slog, look for a well-cairned and traveled social trail that climbs left and up through the initial c3 cliffs on the right side of the debris flow gully . Presently, the trail/cairns are fairly easy to follow all the way around right and up through the c3/c4 bands/gullies to the Gilpin connecting ridge. After the stiff c4 move and short downclimb, the stepover bulge can be avoided by climbing up briefly to a higher ledge (c2+). The exposed summit pitch is a single move of low 5th; rest is 4th. Up the left angled crack, switch over right briefly before scrambling up. We had a party of 4 and a single rope, so we belayed just through the crux and scrambled the rest. Throwing a rope down seemed an annoying prospect. Recommended rack: BD .75 (horizontal crack protects the crux perfectly), a few mid-sized nuts double lengths for anchors. If one were to sew it up, an additional BD 1 and 2 would do. Webbing at all three stations (summit, summit pitch bail point, optional lower 4th class section) was in good condition and the summit orange webbing/aluminum rap ring were just placed by josephg‘s group 8/17. Mileage ~12. Cruiser trail. 4AM start put us just below the first difficulties at first light (consistent average pace). I felt the crux move was slightly spicier than Teakettle‘s crux move. Probably due to the increased exposure. Dallas‘ approach was more tedious, slightly more exposed, and longer, but Teakettle‘s approach was looser (dinner plates). Pictures last quarter of here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/TrurosAndDallas08182013
Info: Just a heads up, Roach lists this as 9.3 miles. I WISH!!! Our gps says 12.5 and we stayed on the trail almost perfectly. Also, I think Roach says something about always expecting ice. There were two other climbers who apparently took that advice and brought ice axes but they looked pretty funny as there was no ice is site. Oh, and Roach says this is the hardest centennial but I didn‘t think it was any harder than teakettle and my partner says that it was actually easier.
Info: I know its super late and the conditions have changed but here you go nonetheless. South face dry and loose. North face cold and snowy. Didn‘t descend 30-60‘ from the notch down the north face because that looked sketch with the conditions. Instead pitched out a traverse up from the notch to the base of the crux pitch. Ledges snowy. Super fun climb!
Info: Standard East face route is free of snow. Snow on ramp to North face is 2 feet wide and is easily avoided on dry rock next to it. No snow on final pitch to summit. Snow is well below chockstone on descent. Water was still running in small creek where one leaves the Sneffels Highline trail to start ascending South slopes. Not sure how much longer though.
|2012-06-09||Route: Mill Creek
Info: Mill Creek Rd open to TH. Parking no issues. Route to 13,500, clear. From 13,500 to summit block - snow, ice, wet. Need to work through a belay to get to the actual summit block. Roach‘s standard route snow covered and completely exposed. We watched Steve & Brit rappel down form the summit and we turned back to camp for another try the next day. After getting beta from them, we pulled the plug and reloaded this peak for August. They said it took them 5 hours to problem solve their way to the summit with a ‘spotter‘. Our group was 5 and would have taken longer. So close...