Click to Expand
|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2015-08-03||Route: West Face
Info: Reached the summit of American Peak via the westernmost gully (i.e. West Face Route, per the Roach 13‘ers book) from American Basin. It is a straightforward hike to the gully that is used to get up to the ridge. There is still about 300‘ of snow in this gully so I used crampons and ice ax to make quick work of the snow and reach the low point on the ridge. You could hike up on the rubble/dirt/scree on the right side of the snow, as I used this option for my descent (so the left side when coming down), instead of suiting up in crampons again. Once on the back side of American, the use trail to get over to the Jones/American saddle is easy to follow. The route is then well defined when you are finally on the West Ridge Route that comes in from Jones Mountain. Of course the classic 14‘er vs 13‘er battle was easy to see on this (rainy) day: The summit of Handies Peak was visited by at least 15 ppl, American Peak was only visited by 1 person.
|2015-06-10||Route: All couloirs
Info: I did not attempt to climb American Pk., but I did drive up into American Basin on Monday, to get a look at the coverage on the couloirs. As you can see, there has been plenty of avalanche activity in this area. If you were going to make an attempt for American or Handies from American Basin, you can drive to the creek crossing as has been reported, then park there, and you would be able to skin or snowshoe from that very point. That whole area is COVERED with snow.
|2014-06-01||Route: North Face
Info: Attempted to climb 2 different couloirs on the North Face. One at 6:30am and one at 7:00am. Both were too soft (postholing up to our knees) and appeared to have remnants of small wet slides. There is one lookers left of the summit that appears to have shade longer in the day (especially if you stay to the left by the rocks). Maybe if we get some freeze thaw that one would be good. Lookers right of the summit gets sun very early in the day. Looking back at the map that entire face does face slightly E so I guess you need to get up to the summit by 5:30 this time of year. 1st Picture is the N face of American Peak taken from Handies. 2nd Picture shows a closer view with Red Line showing the line with more shade.
|2013-05-26||Route: North Face
Info: Independence Couloir is in good shape from top to bottom. Patriot Couloir is getting thin at the top, but is still doable on continuous snow - for a few more days, then the top 100 feet or so will be melted out. We did not need flotation in American Basin (to or from the base of the couloirs). Pic 1 - North face Pic 2 - Looking down Patriot from above Pic 3 - Close up of Independence