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El Diente Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-07-04  North Slopes  Climbed up the North Slope from Navajo Lake. Lower valley is snow free up to the base of the climb, I scrambled the rock for an additional 500ft due to really soft snow conditions at the bottom of the couloir even by 8am. Used crampons the rest of the way up the couloir, soft top layer with hard snow underneath. It was possible to do the climb with just microspikes/ice axe, but those of us with full crampons were much more secure. Snow is melting fast, and it‘ll soon be a nasty mess in the gulley. Sorry no pictures at the moment, on crappy wifi. thebeave7   2014-07-07  0  2    Edit Delete 
2014-06-16  North Slopes  Here‘s a pic of the north slopes of Wilson and El Diente as seen from the col near Wilson Peak. I headed to Navajo cirque intending on doing the traverse, but there were extreme winds today and I was spooked at the idea of being up point that ridge and getting hammered. Nearly got knocked over by a gust down in the cirque. Anyway the north slopes have good looking snow on then. Navajo lake is snow free for all the campsites. jared_j   2014-06-16 1  1    Edit Delete 
2014-06-15  Luttrell Line  In and sweet. Great conditions. Encountered snow on traverse to MW only on the faces, ridge crest dry. Will upload pics later today. No problems driving to Silverpick (ROA) TH. Snowshoes not required. FireOnTheMountain   2014-06-16  0       
2014-06-08  North Slopes  Navajo approach mostly free of snow except for last 1/2 mile near the lake. Most camping spots are snow covered but there is some dry space to be found. North slope route has continuous snow top to bottom, ridge still has decent amount of snow as well, but is mostly avoidable up to El Diente. Sorry, no pics of the traverse to Wilson, we had to make a speedy descent due to lightning. grote   2014-06-09 2  4    Edit Delete 
2014-05-22  North Slopes  Lots of snow. little rock work needed to traverse N. Face. W. couloir in, little rocky at the bottom it looked like (from top) freeinthehills   2014-05-23  0     Edit Delete 
2013-07-09  South Slopes  I am reluctant to post this but I will do so in the interest of full disclosure. I climbed El Diente via the South Slopes on the 9th. It was as good as it gets. No rockfall, no nothing. I did not do the traverse as I had hoped because the weather was coming in already when I submitted (8:15) and I don‘t "mess with Mother Nature". Warning: This will change with the advent of the Monsoonal moisture which I believe has already started. When it rains, El Diente is a killer. Nelson   2013-07-11  0     Edit Delete 
2013-06-29  North Buttress  Hiked from Navajo Lake, climbed the North Buttress of El Diente, then traversed to Mt. Wilson and descended the standard route back to Navajo Lake. No need for traction or ice axe (I climbed in trail runners and never took microspikes or axe off my pack). Any remaining patches of snow are easily avoided. Clouds formed late morning, with a short rainstorm mid-afternoon. Bring insect repellant - the warm temps have the bugs out in force. Not much snow remaining in the North Couloir up El Diente. Recommend the N. Buttress route if you are comfortable with Class 3/4 routes. KTC88   2013-06-30  0     Edit Delete 
2013-06-21  South Slopes  Creek was full. Take the second log to the right (up-climberís right). Itís easier than the first log. Only a few snow fields to cross. Some snow in the chimney, but not bad. I brought, but did not use the Crampons, Axe nor Microspikes. Earlier in the day some of the snow was iced over and took care to cross. Hiking poles helped with this. The gray gulley is NOT the one filled with snow, but the one to the left of it. It is actually gray/green in color. Dan_Suitor   2013-06-22 4  1 1  Edit Delete 
2012-11-03  view of north slopes, comment on south slopes  We climbed Wilson Peak via Rock of Ages on 11/3/12 and got this shot of Mount Wilson and El Diente. If our climb on Wilson Peak is of any indication, I imagine Kilpacker approach and the south slopes of El Diente are pretty dry and that the final climb up the ridge to El DienteĎs summit is (since you keep mostly just to the north side of the ridge) rather mixed. You can check out my conditions report on Wilson Peak for more details. Jyak   2012-11-04 1       
2012-09-09  North Buttress  El Diente North Buttress + traverse to Mt Wilson + Mt Wilson standard route All dry. Saw several rock falls in different gullies/couloirs on the north side of El Diente-Wilson ridge. The final pitch of El Diente North Buttress route also has rock fall harzard. Be careful if some one is climbing above you! mountain hiker   2012-09-11  0     Edit Delete 
2012-08-26  North Slopes  My wife and I were camping in Navajo Basin on 08/26/2012 awaiting a climb of Mt Wilson the next morning. Just before dark a huge rockslide started at the top of the North Slopes route and swept the entire route from top to bottom. No details on the condition of the route afterwards but it was tons of debris that fell for over two minutes and left a dust plume rising above the mountain. miztflip   2012-08-27  0  3    Edit Delete 
2012-07-04  North Slopes  North Slope was a pain to get up, not because the length or incline, but because the route has such horribly loose rock. I have done several peaks with loose rock and this route tops it, especially since much of it half way up was soggy. I will never go on this route again unless it is completely covered in good snow. Also did the traverse when it started to rain and hail on us (nice). Several rock slides were heard from atop this wet traverse include on the ridge we were traversing. Care should be taken for rock fall in any of the gullies. Also, know how to get up and down the north buttress. rkhaun   2012-07-04  0     Edit Delete 
2012-07-02  South Slopes  Hillhag & Slowhead finished the 14ers on July 2, 2012, with El Diente as the last. The Kilpacker route is in perfect condition, no ice or snow, of course. We found on the descent that, while we had to come down the grey gully (beneath the organ pipes), we did not have to cross the grey talus field. There is a nicely cairned zigzagging path, pretty well-defined, to the right (west) of the grey talus. Had we found that on the way up (where it would be to the LEFT of the grey talus), we would have avoided some rock-hopping and scree. Anyway, the mountain is in great shape, and we‘ve completed all the 14ers, in eight years. Not bad for some old folks. slowhead   2012-07-05  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-21  South Slopes  Climbed El Diente today via Kilpacker. I had crampons and ax but they were unnecessary. The snow on the north side is pretty much melted out. The fastest easiest way to the summit is the standard route. I went up on the ridge and came down the standard. Nelson   2012-06-21  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-01  South Slopes  I went up via Kilpacker yesterday. From the TH to the ridge the route was in great shape. From 12,600 to the organs pipes there is a fair amount of snow. Traction is necessary. There is some snow under the organ pipes which slowed me down but was not really a problem. Once you swing around to the north face there is a lot of snow. The problem now is that, with the warming, it is very soft. I was trying to stay in old tracks and started postholing immediately. I felt this this snow was a high avalanche risk. A short slide will take you over cliffs. There was also some rockfall with the warming. These conditions were unacceptable for me and I turned around 150 ft. from the summit. Nelson   2012-06-03  0     Edit Delete 
2011-09-25  South Slopes  South side was completely clear of snow today. When we got to top, we weren‘t surprised to see north side was snowed in. We had to climb the ridge to get to the top. Exposure increases, as does difficulty. We avoided most of the snow that was on the ridge, but there are places where it is unavoidable. We took cramps and axes but did not need them. Hope this helps someone who‘s planning to climb before it‘s too late. phlakin   2011-09-25  0     Edit Delete 
2011-08-27  South Slopes  Talus, talus, and talus. Nothing out of the ordinary. The San Juans have been POUNDED with moisture recently making El Diente and Mt. Wilson real slick and slippery. I did traverse to Mt. Wilson and drop of the west face back to Kilpacker. I have some pictures and beta if you are interested and I‘ll try to fill curious climbing brethren in with some info if so desired. Rcizzle   2011-08-27  0  1  Edit Delete 
2011-08-07  South Slopes  Only 3 small snowfields remain in the basin and below the watermarked cliffs, but can be avoided. Axe and crampons are not necessary. Swamp Fox   2011-08-08  0     Edit Delete 
2011-07-25  North Slopes  RE: Wilson‘s Trifecta. I wish to warn others of the caution necessary in climbing here at this time. I ascended El Diente from the North Slopes approach from approximately 0600-0830. It had stable hard-packed snow which necessitated use of crampons and ice axe. Also, the coulior could be carefully (but dangerously) diagonally climbed to the left, where the most stable rock lay; however, this rock did not have the best grip at some points and was a dangerous choice. Two others and I were sure to call out falling rock and small hard ice/pack snow pieces. A helmet was sufficient to provide protection from these. From the top of the coulior to the summit of El Diente, I felt a false sense of security from the seemingly hard,secure rock and did as much Class 4 climbing as I could. Retrospectively, these areas had a few rocks I encountered that were slightly loose (I didn‘t test them long enough to determine exactly how loose they were as I was reaching for stable rock, of course). These were rocks which were large and appeared well attached/connected to major other ones. I maintained 3 points of contact at all times. All hard rock continued with similar conditions across the traverse (we made to the Saddle before making an unplanned descent due to weather). What is unsafe is (a) the rock which would probably normally be stable being loosened by water (my assumption) and (b), on the "emergency" descent we took, the unstable dirt/mud/rock slides which could result in a fall and subsequent sequalae or a crush injury (we did a Class 3-4 descent on the north side of the Saddle). It is hence my opinion, that it would be safest currently to ascend these peaks as an earlier spring climb. For those who are curious, we camped at Lake Navajo the night of the 24th, ascended on the 25th, spent the night in a rain storm, then hiked out this am (the 26th) with the mountains still covered in clouds. In one area on the trails we saw about 10 feet long of an area 1/2 foot deep of large hail. Mountain Woman   2011-07-26  0  4    Edit Delete 
2011-07-20  South Slopes  We summitted El Diente from Kilpacker on Wednesday, 7/20. The approach is dry. Above the waterfall, there are a few snow fields, but nothing too difficult to cross. Definitely bring an ice ax for the upper route - even micro spikes/crampons wouldn‘t be a bad idea. Also, the route is very loose. We summitted both Wilson Peak and Mt. Wilson from Navajo Lake on Thursday, 7/21. The trail to the upper basin crosses a couple snowfields, but at a very low angle. Wilson Peak is dry. I can‘t recall crossing any snow from the Rock of Ages Saddle to the summit. Mt. Wilson has many snow fields - some are very steep. When looking at the standard route, you see that you cross at least 3 snow gullies. All 3 have snow still, but you might be able to avoid the first 2 by either crossing below it or taking small rock bands between the snow. The snow gullies you encounter as you angle up high toward the notch (climber‘s right of the summit) cannot be avoided and make for a pretty steep snow climb - 40+ degrees I would say. An ice ax is a must and micro spikes/crampons would provide much needed safety up high. I cannot post pictures as I am still living out of my truck. dmccool   2011-07-22  0  5    Edit Delete 

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