El Diente Peak  
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Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments  Likes, Dislikes      
2016-08-11  Route: South Slopes
Info: Nice, uneventful summit. Be aware that trail into basin above tree line and climbing route is mostly scree and slippery even when dry. Will add some to your time. After negotiation of two slots near top, you will navigate past exposure of 5 of 6 for a short distance. Take care. Summit register cannister is damaged; no endcap. No register inside anymore. 
Msprowso  2016-08-12   0             
2016-07-29  Route: South Slopes
Info: Friday morning, July 29th, we set out from the Rock of Ages Trailhead at 4:30am. It took us 1.45 minutes to reach the saddle at rock of ages. Only a few small sections of snow on the rock of ages trail but totally avoidable. Took a small break at the saddle to access our route up the north slope of el diente and then across the traverse to mount wilson. There is still snow in the north coulior on diente, crampons would have been nice, but the snow was avoidable on the east side of the coulior. The snow was still bullet proof while we ascended at 8am. we reached the diente summit at 9:15am and then started back towards towards mount wilson. Reached mount Wilson summit by 11am, no snow on the route across at all. We headed down mount Wilson after a short break on top. As we headed down it started to snow for about 20 mins and then the storm moved on. By the time we regained the rock of ages saddle it was 1:25 but the skies looked clear enough for an attempt at Wilson Peak. We were up and down Wilson Peak in 1 hour and 15 minutes round trip from the rock of ages saddle. We slowly walked back to the trailhead in no rush. Back at the trailhead about 4:30pm. Solid day with lots of elevation but fun route 
valdostastate  2016-08-01   6   3          
2016-07-12  Route: North Buttress
Info: Route is clear to top as well as traverse 
scottaskinger  2016-07-13   0             
2016-07-10  Route: North Buttress
Info: Zero snow. Zero wind until summit. Clear day. Started at 6 am. Did the traverse and had 20-30 mph loud winds. If your name is Orion, you gave me an email with a typo. I have your pictures for ya. 
nathanfisher  2016-07-24   1             
2016-07-09  Route: North Slopes
Info: Snowpack conditions from R.O.A./Gladstone Saddle. Traction devices recommended above ~13,000 ft & up chutes. 
atomnic  2016-07-11   1             
2016-06-29  Route: South Slopes
Info: Climbed the South slope from the Kilpacker TH. Trail is in good shaped and no snow in the lower basin until you hit 12800ft. From there is it mostly solid snow up to just below the Organ pipes, where you get back on the rock. From the Organ Pipes to the summit is a scramble on rock and gravel. From what I saw the top of the North face was dirt/rock but the lower 2/3 was on snow. The traverse from El Diente to Mt Wilson is in summer conditions, all snow is avoidable. 
thebeave7  2016-07-03   0             
2016-04-24  Route: Luttrell Line
Info: Skiable from the summit 
mojah  2016-04-25   2             
2016-02-15  Route: North Slopes
Info: Climbed and skied the north gully on El Diente from the Silver Pick Trailhead. Our original plan was to traverse to Wilson and bag all 3. Poor snow condition on south facing aspects stopped that. North facing aspects are in good condition and reasonably stable. Low angle south facing aspects are icy. Steep south facing aspects consist of deep, rotten snow and water ice. That‘s right, water ice. I got sticks on the ridge to el diente. There is LOTS of snow on the ridge right now, and none of it is helpful. The road to the trailhead is clear to ~6 miles. 
thatnissanguy  2016-02-16   0   1          
2015-10-21  Route: North Slopes
Info: Ventured up to Navajo Lake on Tuesday, spent the night, and attempted El Diente‘s north slope on Wednesday. Very muddy trail for the first several miles to Navajo Lake. Firm snow hiking past the lake, but the couloir I tried to climb consisted of thigh-deep postholing and I ruled out the North Buttress route because of high winds. Should have brought snowshoes! 
c_dickson  2015-10-22   3             
2015-10-11  Route: North Slopes
Info: Trail from Woods Lake was completely free of snow, and the trail from Navajo Lake to the base of the peak had only a few small patches. Snow began as you start up the peak (Photo 1). For the first half of the ascent to the ridge, the sun-softened snow compacted easily underfoot, and the snow-covered rock was mostly frozen in place. As the slope steepened, however, the snow became icy and I turned back rather than proceed without traction and ice axe (Photo 2). For reference, pictures of Mount Wilson (Photo 3) and Wilson Peak (Photo 4). 
RWSchaffer  2015-10-12   4             
2015-09-29  Route: North Slopes
Info: Very little snow as one should expect this time of the year. Going up was loose and sketchy. I thought the ascent to Diente was the hardest part of the Diente/Wilson traverse. There was some snow in tricky places that made me glad to have brought my axe. 
addrock528  2015-10-02   0             
2015-09-24  Route: Kilpacker Approach
Info: Climbed El Diente > Mt Wilson from Kilpacker. We stayed on the ridge for 90% of the traverse peak to peak. Snow/hardpack on the north side standard route for El Diente. Snow later in the traverse descending in front of Mt. Wilson, near the north slope trail. Snow sections are 2 to 3 inches deep with hardpack surface, ice bottom layer. You really need spikes. These areas are exposed. We did the standard route climbing El Diente descending a class 4 ridge to connect our traverse. Stay on the ridge as much possible in the traverse! Loaded shelves with loose rock if you contour below. 
WillRobnett  2015-09-26   1   2          
2015-09-21  Route: South Slopes
Info: Like the previous report mentioned, there is compacted snow on the north side once you cross over the ridge (starting with Photo 19 in Bill‘s description). Microspikes highly recommended for that final stretch because of the severe exposure in that area. I was glad I carried them. The rest of the route is completely dry and in great condition. 
LoveThisSite  2015-09-22   0             
2015-09-18  Route: South Slopes
Info: Snow starting to stick on North face, microspikes would have been more useful here for a few very short sections than in my garage. Passable for now... 
jdegling  2015-09-19   1             
2015-08-31  Route: From Wilson Peak
Info: Didn‘t climb El Diente. From Wilson Peak the area looks mostly snow free. 
WillRobnett  2015-09-05   1             
2015-08-15  Route: South Slopes
Info: Ascended South Slopes on Saturday...zero snow to contend with for El Diente; no ax or traction needed. There are still snow fields for the south route up Mt. Wilson, though. 
SherpaSara  2015-08-16   0             
2015-08-13  Route: North slopes and traverse to Wilson Peak
Info: This report will cover the rock of ages approach, ED‘s North Slopes and the Traverse. 1) rock of ages is ridiculously well marked and easy to follow. There is one spot that might give you issue and ink if you‘re walking in the dark. After turning off the road at a well signed junction you‘ll switchback to the left. Following that trail/road you‘ll gain elevation and come to a point where it appears the trail switches back to the right. There is some PVC pipe about and no real trail to speak of. However, if you continue walking straight as if the trail kept going forward you‘ll hit grass and a very small stream. Shine your headlamp around and you‘ll see the cairns. Again, very easy to see unless it‘s your first time and it‘s dark. For those of you who have been on this trail before it‘s where the remains of a brick house/cottage are. At this point you‘ll step over the creek and cross a bit of snow. About ten steps. Very solid at 4am and 130pm. Follow the very obvious trail to the saddle. 2) El Diente‘s North Slopes. Dropping down from the saddle the trail is well marked. As I started heading west on the Navajo Basin trail I didn‘t see a clear turn off to the basin so I just bee lined it. (Sorry) the basin is easy to navigate and I basically just searched for larger rocks up. The couloir is a different story though. I hugged the left side as much as possible avoiding scree and dirt as it was wet and slick. Microspikes might actually help on this portion. No need for an ice axe as most of the snow is gone and what‘s there is avoidable. From there the description on 14ers is spot on and there are no issues to speak of. 3) Traverse Same thing. Nothing to report other than conditions are favorable for the traverse. Easy to follow 14ers description and the trail is decently cairned. I tried to take the northeast ridge down Wilson but I‘m pretty sure I got lost. I ended up using an axe to glissade a small section of snow. Happy hiking! 
Chipmonk  2015-08-14   0      1       
2015-07-28  Route: South Slopes
Info: Most snow can be avoided at this point. Small patches in the basin can be circumvented, which we did in the morning, or crossed, which we did when things softened up on the way down. We got confused on the way up and missed the grey gully that leads to the organ pipes. We were too far climber‘s left (west) and topped out past the organ pipes and right in front of the narrow section (photo #22 of the route description). There is snow in front of the pipes but at a glance, it seemed like it could be crossed or avoided. The only spot I was thankful for an ice ax was a bullet proof snow crossing on the north side, basically photo #27 of the route. It was only four steps to cross it and there were existing footsteps in place but its a long ways down if you slip. We contemplated going up and around this section as it would have only required about 10-15 ft climb of some OK looking rock but the firmly planted ice ax got us across. In another week or two, I bet the snow will have receded enough to not be an issue. 
thatguy  2015-07-30   0   1   2       
2015-07-24  Route: South Slopes
Info: The conditions have not changed much in the last couple of weeks. An ice axe is still recommended. 
ilium  2015-07-25   0   1          
2015-07-22  Route: South Slopes
Info: There are still several snowfields, so ice axe/microspikes/hemlet are all recommended. Snow varied from soft in the lower regions just past the waterfall to icy and firm as we ascended. Probably used the axe in 8ish different sections. Near the top there was one particularly icy area just above a steep gulley. This was probably 25 feet below the summit. It‘s about 15 ft wide. We were able to cross it safely and summit, but definitely be careful. We had hoped to traverse, but crossing the snow slowed us down a bit, so we opted not To. Lots of wild flowers out there, it was beautiful. 
Pikaboot  2015-07-29   0             

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