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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-06-29||Route: South Ridge
Info: A small bit of passable snow down by Twin Lakes at the trail turnoff. The ramp is still fully snowed in and quite lumpy. Some groups managed without traction but micro spikes or trail crampons were helpful even with the hard snow early and the spikes and ice axes made for a much surer ascent. Many of the cups/boot-tracks slope down the hill and were quite slick; so, the tendency was to slip out and down the hill. The class 3 above the ramp is clear to both Eolus and N. Eolus. As the snow softens later in the morning, but before it‘s soft enough to posthole, the hike back down the ramp can be iffy even with spikes. My climbing partner‘s spikes slid on the softer covering snow and he ended up needing to do a self arrest; so, the axe was certainly a good thing to have at that instant.
|2014-06-21||Route: South Ridge
Info: Hike up basin from Twin Lakes and NE ramp were covered in snowfields filled with suncups. In the early morning, these firm cups provided relatively good steps to ascend on, though an ice ax was helpful. We also had microspikes but members of our party would probably have felt much safer with crampons. Coming down this snow later in the morning, it was softer and didn‘t hold as well. Ice ax was even more helpful there. Higher class 3 terrain after the notch to summits of both Eolus and N. Eolus were snow-free and straightforward.
|2014-05-20||Route: South Ridge
Info: no summit decent, but great snow E off the ridge
|2013-07-02||Route: South Ridge
Info: Climbed Sunlight & Windom on 7/1 and Eolus & North Eolus on 7/2; conditions on Sunlight, Eolus and North Eolus are snow free on standard routes, if you‘re traversing over to Windom from Sunlight, you will have to cross over a small snowfield or two if you drop down earlier - but they provide no real problem even early morning since they are short and if steps are not kicked in already, poles should get you there fine. No need for an axe or traction IMO. Stream crossings lower down are very easy. Hail and some snow fell up high above 12k on the morning of Jul 2, but nothing accumulated and was short lived (just a bit scary sitting there @ 13k+ waiting out the dark skies and weather!). Marmots and Goats very active below basin - guard your stuff and watch where you pee (goats will follow you).
|2012-06-28||Route: South Ridge
Info: The "ramp" leading up toward Eolus and North Eolus is wet, especially on the rock, so take care. North Eolus itself is good. You may be tempted to try out what I guess is the north/northeast ridge, especially if you are tired and don‘t want to deal with steep terrain, but it‘s not a very viable route. I got to just below a false summit to the north and was stuck and had to backtrack quite a ways. The south ridge is actually not that bad.