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North Maroon Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-09-19  Northeast Ridge  Summited North Maroon peak on 9/18. Thanks to the recent warm weather, most of the climb is snow free. The class 4 chimney hand and foot holds are snow free. There is a small amount of snow at the top of the chimney, but it was pretty easy to side step. The pitch above the chimney had a little bit of snow, but it was either avoidable or not too bad to step on. The rocks in the section above the chimney are pretty loose, and the ice/snow definitely had potential to complicated things. It‘s definitely doable, just take your time and choose your steps carefully. As an added bonus, the aspen leaves are definitely starting to turn! Happy Climbing! jjarrard913   2014-09-19  0     Edit Delete 
2014-09-14  Northeast Ridge  Traction definitely needed on the north face of North Maroon (microspikes would be perfect). The class 4 chimney has ice and the class 3 alternative scramble is pretty packed down and slippery. We climbed to the left of the chimney which involved a low class 5 move - it was dry and a fun alternative. jrock   2014-09-15  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-07  Northeast Ridge  Got a few shots of the Bells today, but did not climb. Hope the shots help. Ran up Buckskin Pass and Pt. 13,039 yesterday. Few snow crossings on Buckskin, but were completely manageable in worn out trail runners. Overall a really nice run, but 4 pass as a run is still a few weeks away. Cool Hand Luke   2014-07-07 1     Edit Delete 
2014-05-20  North Face direct  North Maroon is in very good condition right now (see picture 1). The Mother‘s day snow has settled fairly well and the dust layer is buried more than 2 feet deep. The new snow is still rather soft, which makes for fantastic and safe skiing. Booting is a bit of work (see picture 2), but should be much easier now that we set a track (you can thank us later). The ski moves required to clear the Punk Rock Band seem fairly tame compared to pictures I have seen from other years. There is sufficient snow to cover most of the rock so you only need to side step into it, ski backwards away from the East Face once in and then start turns on the relatively low angle slope underneath the rock band. The rest of the descent is fairly straightforward given the soft snow and good coverage (see picture 3). We only needed to sidestep through one tight choke in the central gully. There is virtually no ice or shark fins. Surprisingly, our biggest difficulty was the low approach and exit. A good-sized avalanche has covered much of the Buckskin trail close to the junction with the West Maroon trail. There is a confusing maze of tracks in this area as skiers have attempted to get through the mess. We lost the trail and ended up following tracks up the slide path. This takes you way too high and north of the Minnehaha drainage. Don‘t follow our tracks! If you have a gps, use t from Crater Lake until you are definitely on the trail past the avalanche debris. If you don‘t have a gps, it might be wise to contour parallel to the lake shore until past the debris field and then head up. You should then intersect the trail where it is easy to follow. Use an altimeter to make sure you do not cross the trail and climb too high. Note that the trail takes a low-angle traverse in this area. Going too high in this area is a real bad idea due to lack of snow, thick timber, and loose scree. If you have been considering doing this route, now is the time! Conditions may change greatly after the next thaw and wet slide cycle. One Sierra Charlie   2014-05-21 3       
2013-09-07  Northeast Ridge  Yeah it rained a little... even some hail... but not until we got down to the Rock Glacier - So it worked out! Some wet spots up higher but most were avoidable. Went up the Rock Band & down the Alternative Rock (pun intended). Glad I saw both shows *Edit added photo caption* (Cleve on the precipice) TakeMeToYourSummit   2013-09-07 1  1    Edit Delete 
2013-07-24  Northeast Ridge  The NEW trail that starts past the stream is awesome. It takes you all the way past the grassy slope (11,400\‘) and then to the rock glacier in Bill\‘s N. Maroon description. A lot of goat activity around the \"2nd large gully\" so keep to the trail left side to avoid rock fall. Great mountain and 14er finisher... gpeoples   2013-07-26  0  1    Edit Delete 
2013-07-04  Northeast Ridge  Summer conditions on North Maroon, took axe/spikes but never took them out of my bag. Tiny snow at base of the chimney, but avoidable. WarDamnPanic   2013-07-04  0  4    Edit Delete 
2012-09-15  Northeast Ridge  North Maroon - spotted some black ice on the upper route - approximately at and above the chimney level. Snow (if any) was mostly avoidable. Did not descend the 4 class chimney due to the concerns about black ice (north facing, inset). Chose Class 3 bypass instead (it was dry and passable). South Maroon standard route is dry. Descent from S. Maroon in the direction of Bell Cord had snow on upper ledges. Traverse route from Bell Cord was dry. Please, be careful. Image 1 - descent from N. Maroon (lingering black ice in spots) Image 2 - area around crux (chimney) Image 3 - snow on north side of S. Maroon (non standard route) Image 4 - north face of S. Maroon (non standard route) nkan02   2012-09-16 4     Edit Delete 
2012-07-06  Northeast Ridge  Chimney and entire route is snow-free. There are no ropes left there. Watch out for the goats as they cause some rockfall. Wanderlust   2012-07-07  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-28  Northeast Ridge  The snow is completely melted out. I did North Maroon 3 weeks ago and cannot believe the difference. The chimney is snow free. The rope over the lower wall is gone. There are two good rap stations. One goes down to bell cord and the other is set up to go from North to South. Slings seemed to be brand new. Nelson   2012-06-29  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-10  Northeast Ridge  A good Samaritan has put a rope in to help you over that muddy, rock wall at 11,000 ft. It makes life a lot easier, especially on the way down. Apart from that, all snow can be avoided on the standard route and I didn‘t use ax or crampons at all. Nelson   2012-06-11  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-27  Northeast Ridge  Started at 0330, summitted at 0930. Snowshoes not required, as snow had a pretty good crust. Ice ax absolutely necessary, and crampons highly recommended as well. Approach is free of snow up to the creek, then still some snow up to the far side of the rock glacier. Route up the gullys is free of snow or the snow is easily avoidable. Some ice on the rocks in the gullys, and once the sun starts melting the ice/snow, there are some scattered patches of mud on the trail up the gullys. There are several cornices above the class 4 part, so be careful up there. Definitely early in the season, but it was an awesome climb. PM for more specifics and/or photos. **EDIT** Some photos here. (https://picasaweb.google.com/116018208876794915982/NMaroonPeak) Attached photos: 1- Bells Traverse 2- Pyramid AWright   2012-05-28 2  2    Edit Delete 
2011-09-30  Northeast Ridge  Conditions were dry for the entire route until about 500 feet below the summit. Luckily this was just above the Chimney. I took the Chimney but there is an easy class 3 bypass around the corner to climbers right. Above that the snow started and remained until the summit and was icy in several spots. We had microspikes with us but didnt use them on the way up they sure were helpful on the way down on the snow especially the icy sections. With possible winter weather moving in the next few days these good conditions probably won‘t last too long. kushrocks   2011-10-01  0  2    Edit Delete 
2011-09-25  Northeast Ridge  A layer of snow (~ 1‘) from ridge crest (~ 13,200‘) to North Maroon Peak. Passable without ice axe or crampons, but microspikes would help with the slick terrain. Class 4 section (i.e. rock bands) free of snow, but class 3 section around rock bands filled with layer of snow. 1st pic taken at ridge crest to rock band & 2nd pic taken of route after rock band. clochard0   2011-09-25 2     Edit Delete 
2011-08-13  Northeast Ridge  Route is snow free the entire way. Talked to some guys who did the traverse, sounds like snow is not an issue there either, if you stay on route. One guy said he made a routing error and ended up having to ascend part of the Bell Chord and was thankful to have his ice axe for that. Awesome peak, as always!  IHikeLikeAGirl   2011-08-15  0     Edit Delete 
2011-07-20  Northeast Ridge  As of 7/20/11 the Northeast ridge was in good condition. Water still running fairly high at the low creek you have to ford around 10,700, but there are ways to pick across. Little snow (50 meter traverse) at the foot of the North face around 11,500 but not enough to warrant axe or crampons. Northeast ridge otherwise 98% dry to summit, so DO NOT burden yourself with the extra weight of axe or crampons - trust me. That being said, rock is loose and terrain is unforgiving with lots of potential for fatal falls even on class 2/3 stuff up high. Do not take this mountain lightly. ajfraser81   2011-07-23 4     Edit Delete 

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