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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2015-09-13||Route: North Ridge
Info: It‘s a good time to climb this, as the willow bogs on the approach are mostly dried up. Don‘t let all the game trails confuse you - just keep heading S/SW till treeline. When you have the summit to yourself, gaze at the throngs on democrat. The traverse to Tweto is nasty. A very time-consuming talus hop.
|2015-08-25||Route: North Ridge
Info: This one was a bit of an adventure. There are no established trails (other than many wandering zig-zagging game trails) and keen sense of direction and routefinding skills will come into play. I followed Bill‘s route description on 13ers.com to reach treeline, but I ascended the slope to gain the North ridge much earlier, and on the way out I found a better more direct line through the forest to the parking lot. The problem with the route on 13ers is that it takes you on a longer route through the forest and I found myself in several marshy areas with thick willows having to cross a creek several times. It also takes you a lot farther out in the tundra before you ascend the ridge. Once I was on the ridge I scouted a much shorter and more direct line through the forest and took it on the way back. Coming down the ridge I could see my truck at the ‘trailhead‘ and took a mental bearing and followed it straight through the forest to my truck. I cairned the entrance of the route from the trailhead to the forest. From the parking area, start walking up the road going into the forest (not the one that switchbacks and goes back towards 91), very shortly take a right onto the dark colored rock railroad bed. Walk down this for maybe 50 yards and look for 2 cairns on the left. Follow those straight up into the forest where you might find a pipe surrounded by rocks, a short distance up you will come to another set of actual railroad tracks. Depending on how much you deviated in the forest until you met the tracks, the next cairn could be to your left or right but very close by. Leave the railroad tracks into the forest from the cairn and beeline it through the forest to treeline. There are game trails that are quite helpful but they don‘t go in a straight line so remember your mental compass bearing. Once you reach treeline you may walk by an old cabin, this is the shortest and most direct line, start up the grassy slope on the right side of the talus and gain the ridge. Once on the ridge it is pretty long and when you get your first view of the summit it will look pretty far away. There are some gendarmes that the route bypasses on the right side of the ridge. Upper ridge is pretty straightforward, narrow and exposed in sections. I would call this ‘easy class 3‘ rather than ‘class 2‘ because there is definitely scrambling to be had on the ridge.
|2015-07-12||Route: North Ridge
Info: Route is in great shape. No snow to avoid, no issues at all. Except for the mosquitoes in the trees. Wildflowers are IN.
|2015-04-12||Route: North Ridge to Moonshine Couloir
Info: Continuous snow at trailhead. Used climbing skins (ski crampons helpful) all the way to top of north bowl at 13,400‘. From there, booted (some of our group used crampons, but not necessary) a mix of snow and rock to summit. North Couloir/Moonshine Couloir is thinner than usual at the top, with rocks in the center for 200‘. However, the cornice is smaller than usual at only about 5-10‘ high. Snow conditions in couloir were highly variable.
|2014-10-05||Route: North Ridge
Info: attempted arkansas north ridge on sunday. about an inch of snow in some place below tree line not an issue. The slope to gain the north ridge held 1-2 inches of snow from top to bottom just enough to make it slippery. Once on the ridge snow cover averaged ankle deep with postholing in windblown areas up to my waist in some spots. Not enough to justify snowshoes. The traverse around the towers is a mix of a moderate/easy snow traverse. Carried spikes didnt use them but could have gone either way on that decision I did not use an axe but bringing an axe for a few spots on that traverse wouldnt be the worst decision you could make. In the end this outing just proved too much for 11 year old husky and we had to turn around a few hundred feet below the summit. Cool and windy on the ridge. This peak has a lot of character well worth the effort. One other note this new snow its all faceted junk and will cause issues if it doesnt melt. In some areas i was able to break off a few small windslabs. Not big enough or steep enough to cause any concern today but add the leftover snow that didnt melt from last year and its something to keep in the front of your mind even though its only october.
|Double Oh Seven||2014-10-05||3|
|2014-06-08||Route: Northeast Couloir
Info: Snow conditions were less than ideal in the northeast couloir on Sunday 6/9, with postholing taking place even high in the couloir. Get off this one by 8:30/9:00 am. Massive cornice above the choke. (notice my size in comparison to the cornice in picture 3.) Overall a great climb, and I highly recommend someone getting use out of my booter. Sorry no pics the of surrounding peaks from the summit, I didn‘t have the camera on me. Snowshoes were unnecessary.
|2013-05-11||Route: North Ridge
Info: ALOT of snow up on Arkansas‘ north ridge, but things are definitely settling down re: the snowpack, which is good news. We did the north ridge direct and snowshoes/skis were essentiall up the sadddle where the north ridge meets the northeast ridge. Ridge is too dicey for snowshoes IMO. Crampons and axe were essential as well for the ridge to the summit. Lots of trailbreaking and deep trenching. Class 4 crux was caked in snow as well. Fun climb, though.
|2012-05-06||Route: NE to N
Info: The road heading up from the TH off the highway is mostly dry, though an early drift necessitates a short walk up the basin. Plenty of patchy, postholing below treeline in the afternoon (snowshoes probably wouldn‘t help). Negligible or short snow sections above. NE Couloir - in, ‘cept for the choke. Deviated from it due to a late start (partner never showed), but another pair cruised up after a detour up the valley. Relatively recent ski tracks. Some wet slide activity on similar aspects. Gets sun-hit early. E Ridge couloirs - in and shadier than the NE couloir. NE ridge - mostly dry, basically a moderately exposed, narrow talus scramble with straight-forward notches. Gained it after the first low gendarmes and connected with the N ridge route. N ridge - a mix of cornice and dry. The spicier sections up top were dry (c2+ bypasses or c4 ridge direct). The lower section was either tundra or cornice snow. Posthole descent through the trees down to the car.
|2012-04-22||Route: North Couloir
Info: Climbed Mt. Arkansas via North Couloir on Sunday, 4/22. Mixed dry and shallow snow on road from CO91 for 1st quarter mile; snow for next 3/4 mile to crest of upper basin (first view of route), snow fields and dry for 1/4 mile then snow to base of climb. Climb has more than fair share of recent snow, got soft very early but for very top, I‘d wait for a good freeze before attempting this route. No route finding issues from car to summit. link Link to trip narrative with additional photos.
|2012-04-10||Route: East Slopes (Snow!) and N ridge
Info: Went out this morning and climbed Mount Arkansas. Parked at Fremont Pass and walked some old roads and train tracks around the base of the NE ridge on firm snow. Continued west and started climbing some very nice and firm snow slopes just north of the North Couloir. We reached 45 degrees for a while but it averaged about 40 degrees. We hit the north ridge right where the North and NE ridges meet and continued south to the summit. This traverse was easy with only one real class 3 difficulty which could have been completely avoided on the ridges‘ west side. We saw the prints of people who had recently come up the North couloir which dumps out very near the true summit. Very warm morning allowed us to sit on the summit and enjoy the views for about 45 minutes while we waited for the large snow slopes just south of the summit to soften a little more. We then traversed a short distance to the first saddle south of Arkansas towards Tweto and glissaded all the way back to the valley with very good snow coverage. This was FUN! The hike back was warm...but we only postholed a few times. The views of all the Mosquito Peaks were great as I looked back at what Jed and I had done last Friday...all those peaks! Arkansas was the one we didn‘t get hence why I did it this morning. For anyone looking to do some good cramponing on good snow, Arkansas‘ East side was filled with many great options ranging from the 50 degree North couloir to 45 degree snow covered slopes to 40 degree snow slopes. A nice snow gully also led up the NE ridge about halfway up that someone could do. The routes on this peak were endless annd this would be a great place to practice some snow climbing/self arresting with all the options. It is so close to Highway 91 as well which allows you to get crackin‘ on the good stuff with a minimal approach. Word of advice though...do not head through the trees westward to get to Arkansas‘ west slopes. You don‘t wanna go there! Stay in the valley, wlak a short ways up the 4WD road and get to the small tarn below the east slopes for some great snow climbing options. First photo shows Arkansas Panorama with the North couloir Second one is looking down the NE ridge from where we hit the ridge Third one looks south along the N ridge towards summit Forth one is a look at our great glissade on the slopes just south of the summit
|2012-03-31||Route: North Couloir
Info: As posted on the forums, coverage is good but thinning at the top. Here‘s a YouTube video (condensed) of the couloir: http://youtu.be/ypDWbZAzoBc?hd=1
|2011-07-11||Route: North Ridge
Info: A bit wet between 11,600‘ and 11,800‘ and a few snow fields to walk around below 12,000‘. Dry from there to the summit.
|2011-07-02||Route: S/SE ridge from Mount Tweto
Info: Ridge between Tweto to Arkansas was mostly snow free. Two, moderately steep, snow fields must be crossed (pic 1). One will probably be gone or avoidable soon as it was relatively shallow and had rocks poking through (pic 2). Both were icy along the edges so, be extra careful. I used micro spikes and an ice axe. The rest of the ridge had little or avoidable snow.