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John and I had been talking about climbing the Y-Couloir via the Hero Traverse for some time and May 25 finally provided the opportunity. Mathew joined us for the very enjoyable climb. The Hero Traverse is a shortcut to the middle of Pikes Peak's Y-Couloir; it skips the longer route down Rumdoodle Ridge or the MUCH longer route up the Barr Trail. The advantages are quick access, a shorter hiking day, and a fun snow traverse. The disadvantages all involve the Pikes Peak Highway"you can't get in until later (the road opens at 7 am starting Memorial Day weekend) and you have to pay $10...per person!
There are often fisherman and others waiting at the gate long before it opens, so we arrived around 6 am. We used the waiting time to gear up and get our packs ready to go. The gate opened a few minutes before 7 am and we headed up the Pikes Peak Highway.
The road was in relatively good shape and even more of it was paved than the last time I'd driven up. It took us about 30 minutes to get up past Devil's Playground to our starting point (the last switchback before the road goes around the south side of the summit, about 13,300 feet, I believe).
The temperature wasn't too cold, though the wind was blowing fiercely when we reached our pull out. We donned helmets, gloves, hats, and packs, and hurried toward the north face where we could escape the wind. It's about 200 yards north of the road to the saddle with a view of the route.
Here's the view from Crystal Reservoir two weeks ago. Our route for the Hero Traverse is in blue.
Here's the view from the saddle north of the road. From here, you can see the first half of the route"Hero Traverse. Essentially, we aimed for the path of least resistance to the base of Corinthian Column (a huge rock buttress in the north face). It was mostly moderate to steep snow traversing with a few bits of rock scrambling.
We initially down-scrambled some rocks to get off the ridge and onto some snow.
The snow was in good shape for the most part. Solid enough for good ice ax and crampon placement, but soft enough to kick steps easily.
As we approached Corinthian Column, the angle relented a bit and the traverse was a bit less hair-raising. (The cliff below us also wasn't as extreme.)
Corinithian Column is a very impressive bit of rock that is probably ¾ of the way along the traverse.
The view of the mixed climb Total Abandon on the right side of Corinthian Column. Too sick for my blood!
The mixed climb Blind Assumption on the left side of Corinthian. Also too sick for me!
Mathew and John pass Corinthian Column on an enjoyable section of snow traversing.
The last section of the traverse (between Corinthian Column and the Y-Couloir itself), we encountered the steepest snow of the day.
Once in the Y, the climbing was terrific for the most part. The snow was well-consolidated and provided a great climbing surface.
The rock step we encountered is off to the right in this picture. About here, we started to hear the sounds of skiers above us.
The skiers encounter the rock step.
Someday, I want to be able to do that!
While climbing around the rock band, we encountered steep and very soft snow. Though it only lasted 30 or 40 feet, this was probably the least enjoyable climbing of the day.
Here's where the Y-splits. To take the slightly easier right branch, go right around the rock and ice. To take the left branch (as we did), go...uh...left.
About half-way up the left branch. The snow was in great shape here.
The last 40 feet of the couloir involve a bit of rock scrambling. (I'm standing on the very flat summit taking this picture.)
Here's John climbing the last (and steepest) section. The sudden finish to this climb is one of the appeals.
Ah, it's good to be on the summit.
We returned to the car by hiking down the final section of the trail that leads up from the Crags, encountering many, many cars. Such is Pikes Peak"civilization and adventure so close together.
Here's a video of some of the climbing. I didn't add a rockin' sound track, so you have to put up with my narration. Ho-hum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGUglSqf1p4
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I‘m not sure exactly how far it is distance-wise, but it wouldn‘t be very far. Aside from the downclimb at the end it‘s all on steep to moderate snow. I would guess at most a mile across the Hero Traverse, 1/2 a mile up the Y and a mile back to the car. It‘s probably even less than that if it‘s properly measured.
It has been duly pointed out that we actually climbed the RIGHT branch, not the left. The left was somewhat melted out. Now, though, I‘m very curious about the branch that‘s even farther to the right...
Great TR. I‘ve been interested in the route for a while...now I can see what it looks like. How long did it take?
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