| Report Type | Full |
| Peak(s) |
Snowmass Mountain - 14,105 feet |
| Date Posted | 09/06/2014 |
| Modified | 05/30/2016 |
| Date Climbed | 08/31/2014 |
| Author | nyker |
| The FINISHER - Seven Years to a Rocky Mountain High |
|---|
|
Snowmass Mountain - THE FINISHER, Trip Report and Perspectives Physically and logistically, climbing a mountain is demanding, much less 58 of them. You try and wait for everything to be perfect: weather, conditions, your health, time to acclimatize, injuries to be healed, able partners, time off from work. I would often pause and wait...wait for the clouds to pass, wait until my hamstring felt better, another day to acclimatize. Setbacks occur; flat tires, broken poles, holes in packs, torn soles on boots, leaky water bladders, forgotten sleeping bag... patience is needed for success, but I realized I was often waiting more than I was climbing, sometimes unnecessarily. Life was too short. Somewhere along the journey to #58 I remembered a conversation I had long ago with my Sensei before a match; that "you never really are 100%, but you must fight anyway". Such is the case in mountaineering. Climbing Snowmass The Team: Barry, Jason, Mitsuru, Zach and Rob. Route: Direct Route Variation on East Slopes Where: Elk Range, Colorado Once I was determined to try to climb them all, I thought I'd finish on one of Capitol, Little Bear or Snowmass. As it turned out, Snowmass would to be the one I'd finish on if I were to finish at all. After a turnaround earlier this year, this was the second attempt and logistics seemed better in place for success this time around. The Snowmass Lake basin is a beautiful place. A surreal scene unfolded as the grey skies that predominated all morning cleared and slowly turned to blue from east to west. Snowmass Peak, Hagerman Peak and Heckert Pass frame Snowmass Lake in an awesome alpine moment.  The summit of Snowmass Mountain is hidden in the middle of the three non-descript bumps, left of center in photo. It's nice when a climb actually progresses just about as planned for a change and such was the case with Snowmass this time around. The plan was to meet at the trailhead on August 30th hike in to the lake, setup camp and make our summit attempt the following morning, August 31st. Note to hikers. If you get water anywhere at or below the lake, treat and filter your water. This trail has an inordinate amount of horse poop on it on all eight miles from the trailhead up to the lake - it has more horse manure than walking along Central Park in NYC. Horses are apparently not subject to the same requirements to pack out their waste as humans. I love my German Shepherd but don't want to walk in dog poo all day! Rant over. The approach in was uneventful (a good thing in the mountains) with minimal elevation gain. Soon we reached a series of beaver ponds and stream leading to the infamous logjam. While the crossing had less water flowing than in early July and seemingly more logs exposed, it still warrants your attention to cross safely. It's about 150ft long. Mitsuru moving like a fleet footed marmot on the logs  Take your time on these logs - they are not that hard if you focus, but I've seen a few people fall in, getting wet and ruining their day, having to climb the next day with wet boots. Many of the logs move, roll and sink, and the "right" ones will often sink a few inches in the water, so take care. Trekking poles help here. Packing an extra pair of socks is not a bad idea to the extent you do slip. Some people used crocs to wade in, others carried sandals to wear across assuming they'd get wet ahead of time. Your choice. As you climb higher, the hike in eventually passes through some stunning postcard quality landscape. Walking in, we heard a large pack of coyotes howling.  The approach is filled with verdant meadows, pastures of grasses painted golden in autumn colors gently waving in the breeze and quiet beaver ponds forming a watery quilt across the alpine landscape. The trail is still covered with fresh horse manure, so watch where you step or else your tent will stink when you bring your boots inside, vestibule or not. Groundcovers were starting to reach their rich autumn colors and coupled with the fir and spruce lining the hillside and red rock walls, made for a dramatic setting. Marmots and pika chirped in the nearby talus.   The approach in to the lake is a bit over eight miles each way. I was tempted many times to follow what I've done for other longer routes and do Snowmass as a one day climb, since its coincidentally the same rough mileage and elevation gain as the Mount Whitney Main Trail, which is pretty doable in a day with an alpine start and good weather. There is something nice about moving fast and light without carrying a 40lb pack. However, as I would learn, doing Snowmass in one day just would take most of the joy out of doing it; You would miss the sky opening up as you approached the meadows and miss the scene upon approaching the lake for the first time, which is simply stunning. You'd also have to cross the logjam at night. We opted for an overnighter at the lake. The terrain on this climb is also quite a bit more complicated than the Whitney Main Trail, which is Class 1 all the way to the summit and easier to follow even in the darkest night. Like many other climbs, this trip can me segmented into distinct parts: (i) the approach, (ii) the Willows, (iii) the talus and scree wall, (iv) snowfield (boulder field in summer) to the ridge and (v) ridge to summit section. After a brief walk through the forest and with a bit of elevation gain, we are soon enough at Snowmass Lake and are greeted with the stunning view of the lake framed by the mountains in the area. Note the two trails in the photo - neither are the correct route into the willows...the proper one is further to the hikers left.  There was virtually no snow left on the mountain with the exception of a couple of smaller snowfields. We got into camp and found a decent site enough for several tents and setup camp quickly as we could see a storm approaching and hear thunder in the distance seemingly getting louder. There are a lot of sites around the lake, so if crowded, walk around and little further back to hikers right as you reach the lake, you'll find some flat sheltered areas. Before being able to fire up the stove to cook dinner, the sky opened up and it started pouring rain. We all retired to our tents. Some of us waited it out, some retired and slept for the rest of the night. The wind picked up over the evening pretty strong at times, causing nearby pines to bend and creak all night, making me wonder if they were going to fall on our tents. Sleeping was not easy, particularly because in the haste of pitching the tent before it rained, I set it up on a slope and I kept rolling into the side of the tent wall if I actually managed to fall asleep. The climb up Awakening at 3:00AM (more like just turning my headlamp on at 3:00AM), we targeted a 3:30AM departure from camp aiming on our attempt to get up and down before potential weather moved in. A 30-40% chance of precipitation was in the cards according the most recent forecasts before we left cell reception before the trailhead and in the dim starlight, you could see low lying cloudcover. No report on Snowmass would be complete without a discussion of the infamous willows! You encounter the willows straight out of camp enroute to the upper route as you circumnavigate (quite literally) Snowmass Lake. Feel the willows...embrace the willows  If it has rained overnight, you will be soaked in five minutes of walking here. Put your shell on. Pay attention to the start and be cognizant of picking the correct trail entrance, as there are many trails lacing their way here and there which will consume valuable time. This is more fun in the dark of a moonless night after a rain soaks the mud. NOT. While there are many ways through the willows, the route proper hugs the shoreline, sometimes running out of terra firma at the water's edge. Something jumped into the water as we approached the shoreline. A cold weather giant alpine frog? The elusive Snowmass Nessy? We moved on. Slippery roots and steep mud will test your resolve. Keep moving. Again, poles and good soles will help here. If you are lost and have your compass, keep a west/southwest bearing along the lake until you reach bouldered terrain. Enter Scree and Boulders and the Wall Once we finally exited the maze of willows, we made our way to the base of the wall where we were greeted with firm rock and boulders. The bouldered terrain soon steepens and doesn't let up for the rest of the climb, we are now gaining firm elevation. There are occasional cairns here which climbers would be well advised to follow. Following them doesn't provide you with an easy or best path up the boulders, but it sets you up to take the right approach to crossover the stream to get to the easy, albeit steep green slopes leading up the mountain. We missed the correct crossover, but made our way up a couple of different alternative routes that worked out nevertheless. The start of the boulder field leading to the wall - this is steeper than this photo reveals (taken on the way down).  It should also be noted that there were five or six teams on the mountain that day, and I watched people take at least four different routes up this mountain from the base of the scree/talus field to the base of the Snowmass. All made it up, some having more difficulty than others, so if you find yourself off what you think is the "standard route", relax and look around for alternative ways up. There are sections where you'll get cliffed out (up and down), so use good judgment here as the terrain here is steep and in some sections very loose. If choosing the gulley route and people are above you, put your helmet on. The easiest way up this section is in the late Spring on nicely packed snow up the center of the gulley - in early July it was a nice snowclimb right up to the top of the wall and on to the snowmass. In summer, after melt off, the best way up is to gain the segments of grassy trail on the other side of the stream, by staying lower on the talus and following key cairns (note there are cairns that lead in more than one direction). If you can, do some recon on this route in daylight to save time in the predawn darkness. Topping out of the slopes after the wall is surmounted, the summit and Snowmass come into view. Note on this day, little snow remained in the area where the Snowmass would be - but compare the below photo from early July where snow coverage was nearly 100% to the ridge (from our Spring attempt). Snowmass ridge crest bathed in alpenglow. The mostly snow-free rock-strewn area which is usually covered by the snowmass  The same area in early July - like being on a different mountain, coverage was solid.  Incidentally, this area makes for a fantastic snow climb in Spring/early Summer and despite the absence of crevasses/glaciers, would make great training for mountains like Rainier (at least from a snowclimbing perspective). In July, I was able to stay on snow from about just above the lake to just below the ridge - though gaining the ridge can be a tricky affair. Jason and Barry half way up the boulderfield on the now-snow-free snowmass; note the clouds which were hanging around all morning. We were crossing our fingers any significant precipitation would hold off.  Another shot of this section (taken on the way down). Snowmass Lake is in the distance, The Bells and Pyramid Peaks off in the horizon. See also two climbers on the distant snowfield below.  The one sizable snowfield remaining that must be crossed to gain the entrance to the notch and ridge: This is looking up at the remaining route to gain the ridge. Note the "notch" is to the right center of the photo.  Looking down at Barry ascending the snowfield. All smiles! At the time we ascended, the snow was soft enough not to warrant traction and we could kick steps with our boots. There was a longer way around it to avoid it for those who dislike snow, but it was easier to just cross it and climb up.  Approaching the notch on the alternative "Direct Route": note climber in red in partially way up the notch for scale.  Approaching the ridge and notch entrance to crossover to the dark side. Low clouds and dark skies still loom large.  Closer view of the terrain near the ridge and notch with Jason surveying the situation before entering up the entrance to gain the ridge and other side.  Jason on the top of the notch looking down, saying, "Hey where are you guys??"   Barry at the notch on the ridge crest (roughly 13,700ft)  The remaining summit pitch to the top. Terrain here is steep and loose. if you haven't put your helmet on yet, put it on now.   Note the difference when covered in snow in the photo below, taken in early July from a bit further back. The area north of the standard route where we turned back at the time: The view of the remaining route from this angle reminded me of the finish on Capitol past the knife edge. From this angle, you can really get a feel for the majesty of Snowmass Mountain and its steepness, compared to looking at the mountain from the east. I like this photo of Snowmass as it shows off its lines well.  Nearing the final pitch up to the steep summit. Much of this is nice firm Class 3 rock, but this IS the Elks, so test your holds before moving up and forward.  Another view of this area taken on the descent looking south (Zach, Jason, Barry pictured)  Nearing the top, only minutes to go.  Barry and Jason just about there! The summit feels like it is piercing the low clouds.  The Summit!!   Team summit shot. We didn't even stay to have a snack, as we pretty much unanimously wanted to get down before any potential weather moved in and opted to take a break much lower down in safer terrain.  Thanks to the great team above, we all safely and successfully made it up and down the mountain. Barry, Jason, Mitsuru and Zach: thanks for being part of and making this an awesome trip! While it was my finisher, it was Barry's first 14er! Way to go Barry. The dramatic lines forming the western ridge of Hagerman Peak and Snowmass Peak, two neighboring 13ers. For scale, note climber in red to the left of photo. Pyramid and the Maroon Bells in the background, in the heart of the Elk Range.  The descent with Snowmass Lake in the background  This trip, hike in and climb had a little bit of everything and would be good training for American Ninja Warrior, particularly the logjam and some of the scrambling and boulder hopping! Above Photography by Zach and Rob Hints for success on Snowmass:
Perspective Without sounding too corny, I could not have accomplished this without the help and guidance of many people, including this community on 14ers.com. Thank you to all of you who have provided such guidance and logistical help over the years. Bill, this is a great site and thanks so much for creating it and sharing your hard earned wisdom with us. I think I speak for everyone here in saying thank you. The time during which it's taken to climb the 14ers has been filled with a lot of emotion, much happiness and much sadness. We have lost many of our good friends in recent years, many of whom helped me along my journey with advice and suggestions or simply friendship. Each of them were in my thoughts as I climbed not only Snowmass but the other peaks as well. I first visited Colorado in 2004, unaware of the treasures that lay beyond the roads up high in the backcountry. The mountains beckoned, however and as we all have felt, I was drawn to the higher peaks in the Rockies. We've all felt it; the tingle as the plane lands in Denver, the first sight of the snow-capped peaks of the Front Range as you drive west on I-70, the chill you feel as you emerge from your tent in an alpine start on your summit bid or the exhilaration as you approach the summit and top out. Of course, there is the satisfaction and gratitude you feel as you return safely each day. Ed Viestur's oft quoted words should ring loud in the ears of every mountaineer: "Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory". Chronology September 2007. Finishing the Fourteeners is as much about climbing the first one, (Longs Peak in my case) as much as the last one. Climbing Longs was just supposed to be a one-off, nice challenging climb of a signature local peak, then we'd move on to another challenging hike in a national park or national forest area. Perhaps because I grew up at sea level was the reason I was drawn to tall mountains. The high point on Long Island New York is Jaynes Hill at 400.9 ft. The nearest "tall" mountains to where I grew up were the Adirondacks, roughly a 7hr drive. I remember while driving to college and calling home when, I drove past a road sign stating I had just passed 1,500ft in altitude, feeling excited. My hiking trips evolved into summit hikes which seemed ideal, combining a more remote scenic walk, physically challenging climb with an outdoor experience away from crowds - what we all seek. They grew progressively higher to test my ability to go "high up"; Catskill 4000 footers then Mt Washington (6,288ft). My friend asked seriously if I needed oxygen at that altitude..., then came Half Dome in Yosemite (8,800+ft), Telescope Peak (11,049ft) in Death Valley, Wheeler peak in New Mexico (first 13er)... I remember the afternoon before the climb, the RMNP ranger giving us tips and walking us through the route on the scale model on display in the Visitor Center. Other than saying "be careful" and that we "had better be fit", we were off the next morning at 2:40AM, clearly the earliest we had ever started any hike or climb. I remember as if it were yesterday, a line of headlamps moving up the mountain in the brisk air of that September morning. A sight that stopped me in my tracks at dawn; Alpenglow on the Keyhole  We were lucky on Longs, summiting on our first attempt on a tough peak in what I consider in hindsight, not being properly prepared. We had no helmet, took a chance pressing on with dark clouds at dawn. Ignorance is bliss. We saw another climber abandon their screaming and terrified partner at the keyhole. A boy cried as his older brother made him push on in tougher terrain on the "Ledges". A couple argued at 13,000ft as one wanted to continue, but not the other. It seems mountaineering brought out the best and worst in people, revealing that the soul underneath the facade. Mountains can teach you a lot about yourself. We made it to the summit of our first 14er. The realization of the greater meaning of this came later that Autumn along with the chance purchase of a book on Colorado 14ers and the later discovery of this website. Wait, there are more mountains this tall in Colorado? I never intended on completing all of them. It seemed to be an insurmountable objective at the time. I was happy to just have gotten one. The successful summiting of Longs lingered and percolated in my mind for weeks. A month later, we found ourselves on the Mount Whitney Trail at 2:00AM, summiting after a long arduous climb to the top. It was clear I needed to get in better shape for this. November 2007. We planned another trip on a long weekend of November of that year, the first trip designed around climbing a 14,000ft mountain, not "merely" hiking or photography. I heard Quandary was a good climb, then the peaks in the nearby Mosquito Range. I learned the hard lesson of trying to climb to 14,000ft the morning after arriving from sea level. We were lucky again, planning a trip in November and there was little to no snow. A new word began to factor into trip planning; acclimatization. That winter, the wheels started turning furiously around planning trips specifically targeting these awesome mountains. Amazing to think they were located virtually in many people's backyards. In 2008 and 2009, I completed the Sawatch 14ers. September 2010: With the summit of Pyramid Peak, I began to contemplate for the first time the possibility of climbing them all. By year end, I was committed to do it. Given all the peaks I climbed were without the benefit of a 4x4, I typically started at the highest spot a 2wd car could safely get to or I wanted to take it, which was often lower. Most trips with multiple peaks were done on separate trips, not by design, but usually that's the way the cards fell with weather, etc. Total vertical gain for the 58 for me was 239,100ft based on my altimeter and 615 miles in total. Now, on to the 13ers! "The journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step" *********************************************** Parting shots from along the journey: The mountain goat that chased after me on Pyramid!   The flat tire you don't want before your climb, parking lot at Missouri Gulch trailhead. I just left it flat until I got down.  The most snow I've ever seen on a road   The coolest rental car I've ever had, when I was upgraded at the counter! Note Longs in the background.  The most people I've ever climbed with! Culebra, July 2013.  The bear spray incident at Lake Como Road - note stain on right pant leg (see my Blanca Report for more detail)  My final exit spot (?!) after missing the turn off to the avenue on Kit Carson Peak (see my trip report for details)   The freak August snowstorm near summit of Holy Cross, 2008  Every mountaineers friend and nemesis, the Marmot  Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow): 
|
| Comments or Questions | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
