Ski Descent of Culebra Peak's North Face:
A First Descent?
Crew: Jarrett Luttrell, Fritz Sperry, Derek Dreschsel, Caleb Wray, Joe Brannan
Climb of Snake (West) Ridge
Ski Descent of North Face, Direct
Deproach using Carneros Creek Drainage to Four Way
Into the Unknown:
Photo: Caleb Wray
Setting up a ski of Culebra is a crux to skiing the 14ers. I missed my chance to join a strong crew last year due to a broken leg. A big part of me is now happy I had to wait till this year. For a split second I considered poaching it, but it wouldn't be right to slight the climbing community like that. Risking future access to others would be incredibly selfish.
To do it legally, you have to set up a date with Bobby Hill and pay out the nose for it, a task now completed each of the last three snow seasons. He likes to have a group of at least five to make it worth his time, a cool grand in his pocket. I went hunting for like minded mountain people to join me. I lucked out and found four guys who were a blast to spend a unique day in the mountains with.
We met Carlos at the North Gate, drove to the North Headquarters, paid the fee and turned in the waivers, then drove a short distance up the road to the snow. Our day started around 7:15. I immediately felt like the fee was worth it. The ranch has a special feeling to it. Animals are everywhere. We spotted some fresh-from-the-den bear tracks.
Bear Been Here:
Photo: Joe Brannan
The road is mellow to Four Way.
Four Way:
Photo: Joe Brannan
We all chatted, maintaining a leisurely pace, catching up like old buddies.
I tell you what!
Photo: Caleb Wray
The skin up the West Bowl started out real grippy and easy. By the time we reached the top, skins were frozen over, falling off and the weather had moved in.
This is May:
Photo: Caleb Wray
Derek turned to me and said "It's the Ghost of Taylor, he doesn't want us to ski his mountain!" Don't say that, I'm scared...
Photo: Caleb Wray
That kept going through my head the rest of the day as winds blew heavy wet drifts of snow into my face. We opted to contour South around the high ridge with the large cairn and meet the saddle with a traversing skin. A bit of booting was required to get to the ridge, though not much.
Gaining the Namesake Snake Ridge:
Photo: Jarrett Luttrell
Caleb, Jarrett and I battled the wind to the false summit, which we thought was the real summit.
Balance Good:
Photo: Caleb Wray
Jarrett Demonstrating Refined Split Board Skills:
Photo: Joe Brannan
All of our altimeters were showing well over 14k, a low pressure duke. After digging in...
Give Me Shelter:
Photo: Caleb Wray
..building some rime beards...
Jarrett:
Photo: Joe Brannan
... and trying to stay warm, Fritz showed up. We realized Derek was ahead of Fritz, and therefore must not have seen us when he passed by. Caleb and I took off at a quick pace into the pea soup following his footsteps. We hoped to catch him fast and reel him in. After a while, we hit a significant elevation increase along the ridge and realized we had stopped short. On the real summit we found Derek wondering where the heck we had gone off too. Eventually we all made it to the top.
Fritz on the Way Up:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Culebra Summit, a Chilled Bunch:
Photo: Caleb Wray
Passing by the entrance to the line 50 feet west of the summit, we all had the same thought. That looks pretty burly, but good! It was steep, thin and looked continuous to the edge of visibility. Let go for it!
Caleb:
Photo: Caleb Wray
Derek's 41st 14er Descent:
Photo: Caleb Wray
A first descent this may be, or maybe not. One thing is for sure, we had as much information about the line as any first descent would be expected to have, maybe less. The lower line is hidden from view unless you make a serious recon trip. We didn't know if it went through or not. Could a impassable cliff be waiting?
The first few turns sent the top 3-4" of powder down the rocks. The new snow was wind affected and slabby, underneath was frozen wind board.
Unknown Below:
Photo: Caleb Wray
I followed the continuous snow to skiers right and then down a narrow slot to the gully below. Caleb following suit:
Caleb's First Turn on The Route:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Through the slot:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Jarrett took the 'Easy Rider Direct' route and side hucked from the upper snowfield over some rocks. More evidence this dude gets it done with style. I stood there looking at him, waiting for him to rip it into the blinding snow. "This is your trip Joe, go ahead!" he said. I couldn't resist that and made some fun turns into the more open terrain. The group slowly made way down the route in vertigo visibility.
Jarrett:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Caleb:
Photo: Jarrett Luttrell
Joe:
Photo: Jarrett Luttrell
Derek Making Those Smooth Derek Turns:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Eventually, after maybe 800 vertical, we came to what was clearly the squeeze of the route. Jarrett said it looked doable and went after it.
The crux:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Jarrett dry tooling to more turns:
Photo: Joe Brannan
We probably should have rapped this. We had brought two rando 30 meters, some slings and harness for this exact reason. The storm swayed our decision; we didn't want to stand around in the wind. By this time we were all pretty wet and motivated to keep moving.
Derek and Caleb, beginning the down climb:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Loose rock and ice abound, we carefully inched down this.
Derek on a traverse:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Back in a tight slot, we made a few more turns to the top of another difficulty.
Getting the Sticks Back on Feels Good:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Some of us kept the sticks on, others down climbed.
Derek down climbing the last difficulty:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Me implementing the side huck!
Photo: Jarrett Luttrell
Jarrett in the White Room, in a White World:
Photo: Joe Brannan
After some fun meadow skipping, we entered another choke with some technical skiing and then emptied out into the upper basin. Not wanting to climb back up to the ridge due to the storm, we opted to ski down Carneros Creek drainage. Before long we found our favorite snow, trap door collapsing isotherm. The skin out was humorous. I think I was the only one lucky enough not to go ass over ears off the skin track. Once we hit the logging roads...
Warning, Labyrinth:
Photo: Joe Brannan
...it was just a sticky skin back to Four Way.
Walking with bricks under foot:
Photo: Joe Brannan
Dirt Don't Hurt:
Photo: Joe Brannan
This sure was one of the most memorable days out there. Thanks to a great crew. You dudes rock! Whether or not some silent bad mother did this decades ago or not, it felt so good to do something with so much adventure involved. I wish there was a place with more gnarly skiable unknowns within a daytrip distance. Those of the pioneering days were blessed.
Route: approx 12 miles, 4200 vert
Complements of Fritz Sperry, makingturns.com
Face:
Complements of Fritz Sperry, makingturns.com
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