Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
I met up with Mike (great guy!) through this site as I didn't want to give Longs a go by myself. When he proposed the Loft and Mount Meeker instead of the Keyhole, I was psyched. It was my first time on Longs and this route was an absolute blast. I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a tour of this magnificent peak, as you can easily add Mount Meeker which has a fun summit ridge and great views of Longs itself.
We left Westminster at 1AM and hit the trail just after 2:30am. Even with this start time, we had to park over 100 yards down the road. The trail was easy to follow in the dark, and we made it to the Chasm Lake Junction in 1:24. It was still too dark to take pictures, so we contoured around Lady Washington toward the base of the Loft.
There were two relatively short snowfield crossings on the way over to the base of the couloir, and in the early morning dark they were frozen solid. The two of us had trekking poles, but crossing these was still a little dicey, and it would have been somewhat nerve-wracking without the sticks. Regardless, we made our way over to the base of the couloir and began picking our way up through loose scree and talus, as it was too dark to locate the "loose trail" described in the 14ers.com route description.
We ascended much of the Loft, and reached the exit ramp before sunrise. There are still two large snowfields in the couloir that can be completed avoided, however they can lead to major routefinding issues if not negotiated correctly. The lower snowfield is easily bypassed on the left, as you will be deposited here off the trail coming from Chasm Lake Junction. The upper snowfield fills most of the upper gully and extends to the cliff band near the top. At present, it is important to ascend left of this snowfield, as going right will force you to cross it. When the sun came up around 5:30am, the snow was ROCK SOLID, and an uncontrolled slide down here would send you into rocks and end disastrously. It is important to ascend left of this field as the exit ramp starts near the top of the gully on the left side. The climbing up high was fun class 3 on solid rock. ***As the snowfield continues to melt this advice will likely become less necessary, but for now it is important.
We scurried up from the saddle at the top of the couloir and grabbed Meeker. There is a good trail some of the way that eventually disappeared on us, so we scrambled up through talus to the fun summit ridge. There is an exciting block perched up here that you have to pull yourself over!
Mike had been up the Loft before, and the route from the Meeker - Longs saddle was relatively straightforward and cairned. We descended slightly and contoured around the backside of the mountain, following cairns the majority of the way until we noticed Clarks Arrow over our right shoulders, just like the route description says!
The climbing in Keplingers was snow free on good rock. There is some loose scree in here but if you are careful you shouldn't have issues sending anything down below you. We went left once the large notch above the couloir came into view and could eventually see the homestretch. When you go from solitude to New York City you know you're near the summit.
We reached the summit around 8:30am, and hung out for 20 minutes while tons of folks arrived and departed. This was definitely the most crowded summit I've been on so far, it's a good thing it's so big!
Looking back at the mountain. You can see the two snowfields in the Loft, the upper of which should be ascended on the left side at the time of this writing.
The descent down the Keyhole was straightforward. Once we hit the Boulderfield we put it in cruise control as thoughts of Oskar Blues and Dales Pale Ale floated into our minds. Overall this was a great day on an exciting mountain, and a neat way to see some of its many faces. It was also fun to grab Mount Meeker, and I highly recommend this side trip to anyone going up the Loft.
If you have questions about this route or the conditions, feel free to PM me.
Thanks for reading!
Robert
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
It was pretty cold and windy on Saturday, especially on the back side of the peak. The snowfields I refer to were completely solid, so it must have gone below freezing that night. Glad to have a few layers in addition to the wind jacket and gloves.
I ascended the loft with you two, and saw you on Meeker and Longs.
Good to hear all went well with your day.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.