Torreys Peak Trip Report 10/03/2011

Peak(s):	Torreys Peak - 14,272 feet
Date Posted:	10/03/2011
Date Climbed:	10/01/2011
Author:	jpfeif001

Kelso Ridge to Torreys over to Grays Peak
An early start to the day Saturday, as my friend and I have a strange habit of starting very early on almost every climb. None of my daughters came with us on this trip as they all requested a weekend off from climbing to play with their friends. Completely understandable, as their Dad, I am sure I get on their nerves often enough and they need a little break from me. Although I did find myself wishing they were with us on this climb, as it proved to be a perfect day for it. Arrived at the summer parking lot at 2:30 AM and were up at the mine shack by 3:00 AM to start Kelso Ridge. To start, that is a fun ridge to climb in the dark, making about half way up before the sky started to lighten up. The weather was perfect, the milkyway brilliant in the moonless night sky, the temperature mild to start and of course warming up as the day went on. The path up the ridge was to me, surprisingly easy to follow, even in the dark, the rock walls a blast to scramble up. Zack Myself Zack climbing up Myself climbing up Zack Myself Zack Myself Making my way up Myself Sunrise was beautiful to watch, the sky was mostly cloud free. Start of Sunrise The sky remained dark for awhile longer, the east starting to glow and the western sky remaining filled with stars. Zack Snapped off a shot of my climbing partner, Zack watching the sun come up. Zack watching the sunrise We continued on as the sun had still not crested the far ridge line yet. Finding the more entertaining aspects of the ridge We watched as the first sunlight hit the very top of Grays, giving the snow a pinkish hugh. The first sunlight on Grays Then the sun finally broke over the ridge, lighting everything up. Zack with the sun behind him Sun over the ridge 2 There was no snow until about 3/4 of the way up and even then it was sparse. Taking a water break . We enjoyed a few breaks, bathing in the morning sun. The entire way up, there was no wind, the silence of the place gave it a ghostly feel, as if we were the only living things there, up until the Pika's piped in with their chatter, noisy little critters. Me taking a break We continued on, enjoying the rock formations and scrambles. I would consider this a very easy but incredibly fun class 3 ridge when it is dry and no wind like it was on Saturday. I imagine it would be a bit more dangerous with ice, water or wind like there was 2 weeks ago. I would not want to be on some of that exposure in heavy gusting wind or white out conditions, but I would like to go back a little later in the wintery months to give a go at it in more snow. But this trip was ridiculously calm, not even a whisper of a breeze, no ice, no wet rock, and the snow was mostly at the top or in areas where it was not a danger and often avoidable. Zack Zack climbing up After clearing over the Knife edge and past the exit rock, we left Kelso Ridge behind us and found a bit deeper and steeper snow field to climb up, letting us know that the air is a bit thinner up there. Leaving Kelso Ridge behind us . After a bit of heavy breathing, we made it up to the summit of Torreys with all smiles. Zack on the Summit of Torreys Myself on the Summit of Torreys . Signed the register just down the other side of Torreys and headed up to Grays. Sadly, after the fun of Kelso, the walk up Grays was a bit of a boring trip, however, by this time there were other climbers to visit with. Met a couple on the top of Grays that will be making a trip to Africa shortly to climb Kilimanjaro, and oh how envious I am. Great people all over the mountain by this time of day and a few clouds moving in as well. A gentleman provided some paper for the summit registry on Grays (it was empty) for all of us to sign and place in the tube. We had a summit shot taken on Grays and off we went, back down into the valley. The snow on Grays is a foot deep off trail in spots but packed and slick on the trail, our microspikes helped out traction emensely. A lot of people were slipping, sliding and falling wearing nothing but sneakers. Just because the weather is warm doesn't mean the mountain doesn't have snow. Zack and I on Grays Myself on the way down from Grays We each had to go check out the rather large rock outcropping at the base of Grays. A bit of a shocker once your up on it and looking down, sure wouldn't want to slip off that. Myself checking out the view Zack Checking out the view Looked back up at Kelso Ridge and noticed by this time several groups on various parts of the ridge. We had seen plenty of boot tracks from previous days when we were up there but I believe we were the first two up on Saturday. I am thinking next summer I will take my two little climbers, Jeanette who will be 9 by then and Kelsey who will be 11 by then, on up Kelso Ridge. May short rope them over some of the more exposed areas though. Jeanette has already summited Longs and Kelsey is the rock climber so I think they would both enjoy it immensely. Once back in the valley, the clouds were really starting to gather, a small storm moving in as we were almost out of there. Storm clouds moving in. Back down to the parking lot and a little snow/rain/sleet started to fall. A great climb, great scenery and while we were up there, the weather was perfect. When we hit the bottom of the road I stopped to take one last photo of an Aspen changing over to Crimson, then we were back on the highway and on our way home. Aspens at the winter parking lot. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Kelso Ridge to Torreys over to Grays Peak

An early start to the day Saturday, as my friend and I have a strange habit of starting very early on almost every climb. None of my daughters came with us on this trip as they all requested a weekend off from climbing to play with their friends. Completely understandable, as their Dad, I am sure I get on their nerves often enough and they need a little break from me. Although I did find myself wishing they were with us on this climb, as it proved to be a perfect day for it. Arrived at the summer parking lot at 2:30 AM and were up at the mine shack by 3:00 AM to start Kelso Ridge. To start, that is a fun ridge to climb in the dark, making about half way up before the sky started to lighten up. The weather was perfect, the milkyway brilliant in the moonless night sky, the temperature mild to start and of course warming up as the day went on. The path up the ridge was to me, surprisingly easy to follow, even in the dark, the rock walls a blast to scramble up.

Sunrise was beautiful to watch, the sky was mostly cloud free.

The sky remained dark for awhile longer, the east starting to glow and the western sky remaining filled with stars.

Snapped off a shot of my climbing partner, Zack watching the sun come up.

We continued on as the sun had still not crested the far ridge line yet.

Finding the more entertaining aspects of the ridge

We watched as the first sunlight hit the very top of Grays, giving the snow a pinkish hugh.

Then the sun finally broke over the ridge, lighting everything up.

There was no snow until about 3/4 of the way up and even then it was sparse.

. We enjoyed a few breaks, bathing in the morning sun. The entire way up, there was no wind, the silence of the place gave it a ghostly feel, as if we were the only living things there, up until the Pika's piped in with their chatter, noisy little critters.

We continued on, enjoying the rock formations and scrambles. I would consider this a very easy but incredibly fun class 3 ridge when it is dry and no wind like it was on Saturday. I imagine it would be a bit more dangerous with ice, water or wind like there was 2 weeks ago. I would not want to be on some of that exposure in heavy gusting wind or white out conditions, but I would like to go back a little later in the wintery months to give a go at it in more snow. But this trip was ridiculously calm, not even a whisper of a breeze, no ice, no wet rock, and the snow was mostly at the top or in areas where it was not a danger and often avoidable.

After clearing over the Knife edge and past the exit rock, we left Kelso Ridge behind us and found a bit deeper and steeper snow field to climb up, letting us know that the air is a bit thinner up there.

. After a bit of heavy breathing, we made it up to the summit of Torreys with all smiles.

. Signed the register just down the other side of Torreys and headed up to Grays. Sadly, after the fun of Kelso, the walk up Grays was a bit of a boring trip, however, by this time there were other climbers to visit with. Met a couple on the top of Grays that will be making a trip to Africa shortly to climb Kilimanjaro, and oh how envious I am. Great people all over the mountain by this time of day and a few clouds moving in as well. A gentleman provided some paper for the summit registry on Grays (it was empty) for all of us to sign and place in the tube. We had a summit shot taken on Grays and off we went, back down into the valley. The snow on Grays is a foot deep off trail in spots but packed and slick on the trail, our microspikes helped out traction emensely. A lot of people were slipping, sliding and falling wearing nothing but sneakers. Just because the weather is warm doesn't mean the mountain doesn't have snow.

We each had to go check out the rather large rock outcropping at the base of Grays. A bit of a shocker once your up on it and looking down, sure wouldn't want to slip off that.

Looked back up at Kelso Ridge and noticed by this time several groups on various parts of the ridge. We had seen plenty of boot tracks from previous days when we were up there but I believe we were the first two up on Saturday. I am thinking next summer I will take my two little climbers, Jeanette who will be 9 by then and Kelsey who will be 11 by then, on up Kelso Ridge. May short rope them over some of the more exposed areas though. Jeanette has already summited Longs and Kelsey is the rock climber so I think they would both enjoy it immensely. Once back in the valley, the clouds were really starting to gather, a small storm moving in as we were almost out of there.

Back down to the parking lot and a little snow/rain/sleet started to fall. A great climb, great scenery and while we were up there, the weather was perfect. When we hit the bottom of the road I stopped to take one last photo of an Aspen changing over to Crimson, then we were back on the highway and on our way home.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

rangerdrew	woot. 10/3/2011 9:45pm Kelso in the dark is a good time. Much an adventurous climb more so. I did it at night back in the day and found route finding to be the worst part.
jpfeif001	Route Finding 10/4/2011 1:00am The route finding was fun in the dark, as a result I believe we wound up going up more rock walls than necessary but that made it all the more fun.
M_Sandoval52	Kelso Ridge 10/4/2011 7:04pm For me Kelso ridge is scary in the day. I can not even think about the night. Great Job!

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