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 Peak(s):  Bancroft, Mt  -  13,250 feet
 Post Date:  03/16/2012 Modified: 03/17/2012
 Date Climbed:   03/14/2012
 Posted By:  Mtnsurveyor

 Via the notch (East Ridge)   

Via The Notch (east ridge variation)
Trip distance 7.0 miles round trip
Vertical Gain 3,200
Time 8 Hours
Equipment: Snow shoes, snow pickets, rock gear, rope, ice axes, crampons
The plan:
Use the crusty snow pack and ascend the north couloir of the notch on the east ridge of Mt Bancroft. I had scoped the pitch while on the standard east ridge route the previous week.
Image
looking down the notch (previous week)


We started out late at the winter TH at 8:00AM. A late start because the winds were forecast to gust to 50mph in the morning then die down after noon. The NOAA weather report was wrong. No wind or weather all day.

The first view of Mt Bancroft from the trail. Mile 1
Image
A+ March day


The first pitch (a bit off route)Mile 2
This turned out to be a great snow climb
Image
snow pitch 1


Doug prepares to lead after cleaning all the snow pickets I set.
Image
Doug starts to lead


looking down, back on route.
Image
looking down back on course


On the route looking up at a cornice in the couloir
(the snow was too soft here)
Image
looking at the steep cornice


Doug ran into very soft conditions, then moved to the rocky ridge right of the couloir.
Image

The rocky slope here was the toughest section. 200’ of class 4 & 5 work to the top of the notch. Here we used the rope for some sketchy sections. The belay setups were very difficult in the snow covered rock.
Using the axe wedged down between covered boulders at one station, then the next setup was what Doug called a Swiss/ Italy belay with the rope over a notch in a boulder.
Swiss / Italy What do you mean? Doug replied"you fall towards Italy, I fall towards Switzerland and the ridge between catches us. OK I said, lets just call it sketchy.
Image
Next to the notch


We made it to the ridge, for a short break to take our crampons off. Now we were ready for the classic part of the route.
Doug working a class 4 section.
Image
Base of class 4 section


on the main ridge class 5 section (crux move)
Image
Doug on the crux pitch

Image
Doug making crux move


Doug with a smile after an exposed class 4 pitch.
Image
wow that was close


Our decent today was perfect. Except.. I some how got stuck carrying all pickets and could not glasade as well as Doug.
Image
Glasading

Image
Glasading 2

Image
Doug singing down the slope


A Ptarmigan sneaking across the snow
(it thinks we don’t see it)
Image
Ptarmigan camo


Image
top of ridge

goats on the ridge miles away



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
milan


Awesome climbing     2012-03-17 01:10:02
LOL Swiss/Italy belay; it actually reminds me how people are climbing Mt.Blanc via the Bosses Ridge, two on one rope hiking the ridge and if one falls to the right side (Italy), the second one has to jump left to France (or vice versa) and the ridge catches them ....



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