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Sunrise on top of Horseshoe Mtn Peaks (in order of summit): Horseshoe Mtn A - 13,898' (Cent-R:#72), Peerless Mtn - 13,348' (UnR), Mt Sheridan - 13,748' (R:#126), Mount Sherman - 14,036 (14er ' R:#45), Gemini Peak - 13,951' (UnR), Dyer Mtn - 13,855' (Cent-R:#81), Mt Evans B - 13,577' (R:#204), Repeater Peak - 13,548' (UnR), Mosquito Peak - 13,781' (R:#115), Treasurevault Mtn - 13,701' (UnR), Mt Tweto - 13,672' (R:#162), Mt Buckskin - 13,865' (Cent-R:#76), Distance: ~16.5mi Elev Gain/Loss:7500'/7000' (plus LOTS of small elev gain/loss on Mt. Tweto - Mt Buckskin traverse) Weather: Sunny w/ highs around 35F but with a relentless and unmerciful 50-60mph SW-SSW wind that would occasionally gust to 70mph. Time:15:00 (4:30am - 7:30pm), First Summit, Horseshoe Mtn: 6:25AM, Last Summit: Mount Buckskin: 6:30PM Technical Difficulty: Mostly Class 2, Dyer - Evans B: Short Class 3/4 w/ exposure, Tweto - Buckskin: Lots of Class 3 w/ significant snow covered knife-edge exposure. Some Class 4 on final climb to Buckskin Technical Gear: Ice Axe (never used), Microspikes (never used), Trekking Poles Travelers: Geojed (Jed), Matt Lemke and Matt Lavington (14W; turned back after Gemini) Wildlife (other than the climber ): Pair of Snowy Ptarmigans that we startled and squawked at us. Special Thanks for beta/pics: Anna, Mike (BoggyB), Aaron (Andyouseeme)
We beat you to the top of Horseshoe Mtn Mr. Sun!
Prologue
I had such an awesome time on the Total Tenmile Traverse Trip that I did solo last month that I wanted to find a similar traverse where I could get high quickly, stay high all day, and get a bunch of peaks. I looked around in the Sangre de Cristo but all of the trailheads there are relatively low and getting back to the starting TH would be tough. I then investigated the Mosquito Range and it met all of the criteria for a successful "big day" as I've come to call these ridge traverses. Start at the winter closure near Leavick (elev. 11,100') and finish at the Kite Lake TH (elev. 12,000') which had been plowed several weeks ago for a mine rescue. Along the way I would get: 12 peaks, 9 ranked summits, 3 centennials, 1 14er. Sounds like my kind of day.
I posted on the forum about a week prior to the date of the traverse and Matt Lemke quickly joined on. Matt Lavington (14W) expressed interested too, with the caveat that the group would not get "too big". I promised him that with a "big day" like this happening on a Friday, the chances of the group getting big was pretty small. I didn't recite the statistic of a 200% increase in the group size (vs. my prev big day in the Tenmile) with him and the other Matt accompanying me this time, as that might've scared him away!
The Climb
Entire Mosquito Traverse basked in peaceful alpenglow
I woke up at 1AM and met Matt Lemke at the PnR at 1:30AM. Our plan was to meet the other Matt at the Kite Lake TH at 3AM, and we arrived about 5min late. We switched our gear over the other Matt's truck and set off back down the bumpy Kite Lake Rd with me squeezed in what I guess you could call "seats" in the back of his Tacoma's cab. Cruised Main St in Alma and Fairplay, and then turned on to the Four Mile Creek Rd. We planned on having to park at the winter closure on the road but we were VERY pleasantly surprised to see that the 4 or 5 drifts across the road all had tracks busted through them. So we were able to make it all the way to the turn for the 4WD road to Leavick Tarn/Peerless Mine. This saved us 500' elevation gain and about 1.5mi of road walking. We geared up and set off up the road around 4:30AM with the goal of making it to our first summit, 13,898' - Horseshoe Mtn, by sunrise (@ 6:40AM).
Serene view back towards summit of Horseshoe Mtn
We made quick work of the network of 4WD roads leading to the Peerless Mine as the full moon illuminated the terrain around us. (I didn't even get out my headlamp it was so bright out.) Occasional gusts of wind, interspersed by relative calm, only hinted at the gale winds that would blast us the rest of the day. Once we reached the ridge to Horseshoe Mtn the wind became more constant and once we were close to the summit and the hulk of Horseshoe no longer was our wind break we got our first taste of what NOAA/NWS calls a "very windy" day: SSW-SW wind 40-50mph. We summited Horseshoe Mtn. around 6:20AM, 20mins prior to sunrise. Due to the chilly breeze that continuously buffeted us on the summit we decided not to wait for the sunrise but to begin our traverse of the Mosquito Range in earnest.
Matt Lavington on the way down from Horseshoe Mtn
Holy Cross area of the Sawatch basking in the light of dawn
Finnback Knob feels the fire at first light
Diminutive Peerless Mtn is the next objective with Sheridan (L), Sherman (R), and Dyer (center back)
We cruised down towards the diminutive Peerless Mtn that if you don't have any other peaks to compare it to in the picture frame it actually looks pretty big. Traversed the top of it and then down to the saddle with Sheridan.
Matt Lemke (R), Matt Lavington (L) on the way to Peerless Mtn
Peerless (R), Sheridan (L), and Dyer (center)
Mount Massive seen over Finnback Knob's shoulder.
Sheridan was our first real climb of the day after Horseshoe and we were able to follow a use trail up the 600' to the summit. The USGS map has the highest point on the east side of the summit plateau, but the wind break and summit register are more towards the west side of the summit plateau. So to cover our bases and to enjoy the protection of the wind break we went to the west side and had our first snack break of the day. From here we could see the rest of the way we had to go to reach our final peak of the day, Buckskin Mtn.
Looking north towards the rest of the Mosquito Range Traverse. Buckskin is visible in the center with the Mount Democrat's pyramid right above it. Mt Loveland has the stripes of snow going up its slopes.
View back to Horseshoe Mtn from Sheridan's Summit
Great view of the Sawatch across the valley
Matt Lemke enjoying the view from Sheridan while the other Matt approaches the summit.
After a quick snack break we headed down towards the pass with the 14er Mt Sherman. This pass, at a lowly 13,150', would actually be the LOWEST elevation we would be at during the whole of our traverse!
Sherman's South Ridge was an easy climb alternating between snow and talus and we reached the summit in short order. Well at least I did, Matt Lemke claimed to have stuck to his personal rule of not "repeating" peaks by bypassing the summit cairn area, but I think I caught a glimpse of him sneaking over there when he thought I wasn't looking. Your secret is safe with me Matt...
Mt Sherman's Lofty Summit
View south from Sherman's Summit
Here the wind actually strengthened (as NOAA had actually forecasted) from the 40-50mph SW-SSW it was to a 50-60mph SW-SSW gale that would gust occasionally to 70mph. This wind would be our constant, unrelenting, unmerciful companion the rest of the day as we would sorely lack natural wind blocks to hide behind along the relatively gentle Mosquito Range crest.
That looks fun, NOT! Definitely a *big* accomplishment getting all those summits, but where is the FUN in spending 15 hours in that miserable wind? Just wondering...
You are looking at this from wrong point of view...some people like massive sufferfests like this. Why do you think people run marathons? Because they like long sufferfests! It just depends on what kind of sufferfest you like to do
Amazing work you guys, can't believe you were able to tough out that brutal wind. I guess it helps when your car is at the other end and the only option is to go on
Makes my legs sore thinkin' about it. 4/12/2012 4:11pm
I've wandered out to the Sheridan and the Geminis from Sherman and gazed longingly at all those peaks, but wow, all of 'em in one day, and NOT summer. That must be one you'll never forget.
I enjoyed the report and looked forward to seeing it, after hearing from Matt about it the next day and seeing the sheer length of ridge that you guys walked - geez! Great route, Jed - kudos to you both. Speaking of sufferfests, Matt, you had no business tackling Mt OK with me the next day after that hike - but glad you did!
Looking for Matt Lavington -- climbed South Buttress of Denali with him in 1982. Matt, please contact me alandan@comcast.net Thanks
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