Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
What can one muster to shed light on these spectacles of nature?
Mike and I have had Ypsilon's Y (affectionately referred to as Yippy's Y) on our mind ever since Kimo and company's masterful take on Hagues, Mummy and Fairchild. Thanks for the beta Kimo!
With the day set, the mountain set, the only thing left to set was our alarms for a 2:30 am start from the Lawn Lake TH, but not before an orderly sojourn of Boulder's Wholefoods was made. (make out the endorsement checks to "Fireonthemountain", one word)
We made quick work of the approach in trail runners until we found ourselves off route and postholing, more of this to come.
Once the postholing mercifully ceased above Ypsilon Lake, we were ready to take on the gulley to Spectacle Lakes which entailed some fun scrambling, gambling and slab action.
Enter Yippy...
Our original goal was to do the right branch but after performing a cursory investigation of the choke my findings were..."Uhhh, its a friggen vertical, chasmed wall of ice."
Luckily, Mike is not easily swayed and we agreed to check it out.
What more can I say, the snow was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G. Perfect for climbing, way too hard for skiing. Lucky for us we forgot our skis/board at home but reluctantly brought the points.
Mike's making a worldly mountaineering trip soon so he cordially threw some ice climbing pointers my way and we had fun on some nice ice.
Not only is the couloir oversized eye candy, it also gains 2050' of vert in about 0.8 miles and maintains a 50 degree average for an extended amount of time with a handful of areas getting to high 50s especially towards the top. Consistent cloud coverage also kept the snow from slushing. Life was just peachy.
The choke may have been possible with proper tools and pro, but we would later find out that topping out the couloir would have been tricky. And by tricky I mean quite foreboding. Overhanging cornices would have required a traverse out to precipitous mixed terrain. Perhaps in a snowier year....
The cornices up top were sizeable but no match for the Boggster.
Here's the view we had as we enjoyed our figs and salmon sandwiches. Call it the Bear Grylls treatment minus the 5 star hotel.
Another option would be to exit left off the left branch and go up this. Looked quite fun actually and the top was a good 60 degrees. I actually think this might be a better ski descent.
After eating we grabbed Chiquita (banana), glissaded down to the lake that bears its name and then postholed a bunch. It was hard to hate life however after such an amazing climb.
Stats on the ride: 15.1 miles RT, ~6000' of vert, 14 hours (2-2.5 spent postholing about a mile long stretch around Ypsilon lake)
Here's a video Mike put together if you care to watch.
Tread lightly my friends.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Ypsilon Peak is on my list as well. Wish I would have been invited. Any high rez pics of the crux on the right branch? Maybe it would be do-able if you roll a little slower with some gear.
Luke - Maybe you should save your Friday salmon for climbs. Ya i'm down for some sangre action.
Jason - I could send you some zoomed pics of the right branch choke but topping out the right branch is a whole other thing too. You would have to get out of the cooley because the cornice is near vert to overhanging. The mixed terrain at the top would be quite hairy.
Aaron - Thanks for the headups about the reed! Wouldn't want to injure my delicate fingers.
Chris - That shots from Mike's awesome GoPro. I love the fisheye on that thing
I knew Michael had been up there but just saw this report. I hiked up and looked down this cooly and thought, ”Crap”! Nice work. And, I have taken up basket weaving.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.