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 Peak(s):  Dallas Pk  -  13,809 feet
 Post Date:  05/08/2012
 Date Climbed:   05/05/2012
 Posted By:  Wyoming Bob

 Dallas Peak Attempt - East Face "Classic"   

Attempted Dallas Peak on May 5, 2012, falling short at the traverse to the North Face and base of the summit pitches . . .

Trail was clear from the Mill Creek parking area through the meadows where well tracked snow covered the trail for about 200 yards. From there the trail was clear to the last switchback, which combined just enough snow and darkness to stymied us for ten minutes as we searched for the missed turn before cutting a patch of well trod dirt. Our next challenge was the last stretch of trees in the wide gulch below West Dallas, which offered the opportunity to drop to the waist, climb out and "think light" in hope that we would not go through again.

The promised grass slope led to the upper valley and the snow climb portion of the climb. There was sufficient snow to avoid crossing any rock other than some bands of talus . . . but no class 2 or greater if unwanted. The upper east face offered a direct straight up climb to the chockstone or the traditional more wide sweeping route, which we took for a taste of unnecessary class 4 rock. The top of the chock stone proved to be the end of the road for us as the traverse to the north face was a mix of snow, ice and rock sloping in the direction of eternity. We would like to have gone for the summit pitch but those alarm bells that come after a decade of climbing were ringing loudly.

August will be here soon enough . . .

Click here for trip narrative with photos

 


  • Comments or Questions (3)
RoanMtnMan


Nice trip.     2012-05-14 00:59:28
Your write up was enjoyable. I have always thought that Dallas and Teakettle would be great climbs in Aug or Sept, this early they are sporty. Good work.


mattpayne11


Nice     2012-05-16 07:33:46
Hit me up if you attempt again - I really need to do Dallas.


Wyoming Bob


Thanks     2012-05-19 08:56:33
RMM, thumbs up much appreciated; MP11, email out to you.

Thanks,

Bob



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