Log In 
Peak(s):  Crestone Peak  -  14,299 feet
Humboldt Peak  -  14,068 feet
Date Posted:  07/01/2012
Date Climbed:   07/01/2012
Author:  zephyr_pelicante
Additional Members:   carson_h
 "Just ignore the fact that it looks impossible"   


Day 1: Hike to South Colony Lake


Start time: 7:00pm
End time: 9:00pm
Distance: 4 Miles

As a summer Co-op at a new job, I met 2 guys from work who liked to do mountain climbs - Carson and Kevin - and was invited to do a weekend trip with them to do Crestone Peak and Humboldt peak. Kevin and Carson are Colorado School of Mines alumni, and if all goes well, a year from now I will be too!

We arrived at the South Colony Lakes trailhead at 7pm and geared up and began the trek to lower South Colony Lake. Near the end of the trek it got dark so pulled out our headlamps for the last mile, and setup camp.


Day 2: Crestone Peak


Start time: 4:00am
End time: 10:30am
Distance: 5.5 Miles


We woke up early and began the ascent to Broken Hand Pass. The trail going up to Broken Hand Pass went across ledges where the moonlight lent some mystique to the early morning adventure. After following the very well crafted trail up to the section of class III climbing, we crossed a 10ft flat section of snow. Then the helmets and gloves went on and climbing commenced.

Image
Broken Hand Pass


After the pass we descended the rock-staircase-trail down to Cottonwood lake.

Image
Cottonwood lake


The sun continued over the hills and we hiked West where our route came into view - the Red Gully.

Image
Red Gully


We approached the gully and Kevin kindly reminded us "Just ignore the fact that it looks impossible." We went to the right to avoid difficult climbing, then began our ascent.

Image
Ascending Red Gully

Image
Ascending Red Gully

Image
Red Gully - Final Pitch

Image
Red Gully - Final Pitch


At the top of the gully is a saddle between East Crestone, and West Crestone (summit). This was our first real stop we made since the pass, and it was needed because the Gully was quite a workout.

The portion from the saddle to the summit went over ledges and had a little exposure.

Image
Looking back on the ledges between the saddle and the summit

Image
Climbing toward summit


This was my favorite part of the climb as the ledges were lingering on the side of a cliff and climbing the interesting geometries of the solid-rock was rather surreal.

There is a 10 ft drop before the no-nonsense summit. On the summit there are only enough rocks for a handful of climbers to sit and enjoy the scenery.

Image
North Summit Panorama

Image
Looking east - check out that notch! (Humboldt in background left)

Image
Kevin and Carson

Image
Blanca and Sand dunes


The descent of Red Gully was tremendous; we had great views the entire time.

Image
Descending Red Gully


On return to our campsite, Broken Hand Pass didn't go unnoticed. We were sure to re-helmet and remain complacent amidst the loose rock on the East side descent.

I had a nice swim/bath in South Colony Lake. I let my body chill in the water then tan in the sun for 30 minutes each before changing into some refreshing new clothes.

Image
Crestone Needle / Humboldt Panorama


We enjoyed a long afternoon nap and some long hours of sleep. I treated myself to a few hours of the musings of psychology/philosophy audio lectures while looking at Crestone Needle from our camp.


Day 3: Humboldt Peak


Start time: 4:30am
End time: 8:00am
Distance: 5 Miles

We got another early morning start for Humboldt Peak. The trail meandered through some willows on the East side of South Colony Lake before emerging above treeline to reach Humboldt's West ridge. On the ridge I was able to snag a few photos of the Crestones we had tackled yesterday.

Image
Crestone Needle (left) and Crestone Peak (right)

Image
Ascending Humboldt's West ridge


Humboldt was a quick but enjoyable climb, and we got some good views during the post-sunrise on top. We chatted briefly with some other hikers who had done quite a few pretty interesting routes on serious peaks.

Image
Great panorama of Crestones at sunrise

Image
East panorama

Image
Looking South from summit


We hiked back down, broke camp, and made it back to the car by 10am.

Carson has only a handful of 14ers left, I have just begun and Kevin is somewhere in the middle.

I continue to have a truly incredible, unique experience on every mountain I climb. In my previous trip reports I've mentioned developing an addiction for climbing these peaks. I didn't think I'd end up packing in 15 summits in a little over a month. Every time I plan a trip, I sit and think about how awesome it will be, and my expectations are always blown away.

On this trip report I hereby officially state that I intend to climb every 14er in CO, and I want to do it before I turn 25. It's no longer an addiction its an obsession.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20


Comments or Questions
dillonsarnelli
User
you're all over these mountains
7/2/2012 1:24am
nice job on another man


screeman57
User
grammar police...
7/2/2012 1:34am
eats shoots and leaves (i.e. ”nice job on another, man”)


rambis_21
User
extending your bucket list with every climb
7/2/2012 2:04am
Nice job Colby, I am glad you made it up some more mountains this weekend. Mountain after mountain it gets more exciting as we go.


SolarAlex
User
sweet
7/2/2012 1:44pm
awesome pictures, feel like it gives some perspective to the climbing thats required in the red gully...crestone peak is on my short list for sure!


zerosignal28
nice job
7/2/2012 5:24pm
nice report, it looks like a great climb. I'm new to hiking 14ers myself, and I'm wondering what you would say about this one being one of the more difficult 14ers. Did it make you nervous, and would you recommend going with someone who is much more experienced to ease the nerves?


tmathews
LOL @screeman57
7/2/2012 8:16pm


Doctor No
User
Well done!
7/3/2012 4:20am
Love the shots - gives some good perspective on the climb!


zephyr_pelicante
User
Re:
7/3/2012 1:42pm
Thanks all for the comments!

zerosignal28: it didn't make me nervous. Kevin was a little spooked by the ledges near the summit but besides that I don't think the other two were nervous either. However, they are both very experienced.

It may help to go with someone experienced. We split up in the gully so we wouldn't hit each other with rocks, so we weren't spotting each other climb. What was most helpful is Carson and Kevin had a GPS and were able to find the route well. This isn't a mountain where you want to *accidently* get stuck or lost on an exposed face.


screeman57
User
LOL back@tmatthews
7/3/2012 10:21pm
good one


metalmountain
User
Nice!
7/5/2012 4:39pm
I think we passed you guys when you were coming down the gully and our big group was still on our way up. It an awesome day up there for sure!


mspalding
Excellent Write Up
7/7/2012 1:16am
Thanks for the details on the Red Gully and near the summit. And congrats on a safe trip up and down a Crestone.



   Not registered?


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.


Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.