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Peak(s):  Monkey Face - 3,000 feet
Post Date:  07/05/2012
Modified:  02/20/2014
Date Climbed:   06/11/2012
Posted By:  Brian C

 Monkey Face - Smith Rocks, OR   

This is taken from the full report on my site. All the photos can be found HERE at Brian in the Wild.

Monkey Face via the Pioneer's Route (5.7 C0)

June 11, 2012

Wanting to take a day trip to Smith, Jen and I decided to climb the classic Monkey Face. Being raised in Eugene and seeing climbers ascend the improbable formation, Jen was excited to climb it. Here are my notes I jotted down after the climb...

Monkey Face via Pioneer's Route - 5.7 C0
FA - Bohn, Fraser, ?

This classic tower is a "must do" at Smith Rocks in central Oregon. It is a slender, overhanging tower about 400' tall and resembles a monkey from a few vantage points. The rock is tuff (welded?) and very solid. The climbing is moderate with the steeper portion gained by a bolt ladder. Climbed with Jen.

Approach: From the main lot: Cross the river and follow the steep "Misery Ridge" trail to the top of the plateau. Cross on the trail until the Monkey is in view. Follow the trail steeply down and follow the obvious climber's trail to the base of the route.

P1 - Anchor belayer to bolt! Traverse right across drop to small ledge. Work up then back left toward notch. Work into vertical seam (crux) to notch, step onto exposed face and climb past bolts to belay on small ledge, "Bohn Street". ≈170' 4th -> 5.6
P2 - Free climb to first bolt then aid the steep ladder into the Monkey's Mouth. ≈60' 5.6 C0. About 17 bolts.
P3 - Move belay to other side of the cave. Reach out and clip blind bolt. "Panic Point". Step out and climb up steep face past bolts to ledge. ≈30' 5.7 Exposed!
P4 - Boulder up. Step over gap and power to the top. ≈40' 5.4-5.5

Descent: Single rap from top to "nose". Make huge 190' rappel past mouth to packs.

Gear: Single set nuts and cams 0.5-4. Aiders and dasies. 12 draws and 2 ropes.

Thoughts: Great route. Very exposed! Aid portion takes time and Jen re-aided. Very happy to be on MONKEY FACE!

Nice views of the central Cascades in Oregon. Lots of snow this year.

The route.

"Panic Point" on P3.

David the Gnome taking in the views of the Monkey.

Well, once the world was full of monkeys,
A long time ago.
And elephants with big long trunkies,
A long time ago.
And the elephants swarm in the Zazafram Sea,
And the monkeys swung from the zilibum tree,
And life was silly as it could be
A long time ago...
-Shel Silverstein


  • Comments or Questions

Dude     07/06/2012 05:20
you and your shirts and bandana's!

Dave B

Smith Rock uber classic!     07/06/2012 13:44
Nice climb! I love that side of smith with the views of the Sisters. Did you make it up to Trout Creek at all while there?


Cool report!     07/06/2012 14:28
I've said it before, Brian: You have a wife that climbs stuff like that? Aid climbing the Monkey Face?!? Wow! Oh, and, uh...you did a good job too. Great job,


Few points     07/06/2012 15:28
-Those volcanoes look ready to blow, any second!
-Why didn't your wife jug? Was there a big swing involved? Edit:Answered my own question,short bolt ladder.
-That looks like a classic! Panic Point... awesome.
-Good work to both of you!


I love Oregon's volcanoes.     07/06/2012 21:51
Allways wanted to climb the Sisters. Great pictures.

I Man

Very Cool!     07/09/2012 05:10
I remmeber when you sent me the pic of you at Panic point while I was at work...sitting at my desk...looks like you're having a fun summer

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