Peak(s):  Grand Teton - 13,770 feet
Post Date:  08/26/2012
Modified:  02/20/2014
Date Climbed:   08/10/2012
Posted By:  Brian C

 Classic Day on the Grand   

This is taken from the full report on my site. All the photos can be found HERE at Brian in the Wild.

Grand Teton via Direct Exum Ridge (5.7)

August 10, 2012

Glen and I decided that it was way overdue to visit the Tetons and we decided on attempted the classic Direct Exum Ridge as our first venture in the park. The hike to the upper saddle was fairly brutal carrying up all the gear and the afternoon heat was nearly unbearable. It was fun to run into Sarah, Dominic and Pete's group and enjoyed having some more Coloradans around. We managed to nab the best campsite on the saddle that was furthest from the toilet and closet to the water. We got up early the next day and made our way to the base of the ridge just before dawn. Somehow we managed to miss the 4th class "ramp" that leads to the first pitch and ended up traversing across a low 5th class ramp that put us right below the second pitch. The lower route proved quite challenging to stay on route and the correct path was not always obvious. The famous Black Face didn't disappoint, and both it and the pitch above it were steep, exposed and beautiful climbing. Once at Wall Street, we coiled the rope and moved up quickly. We kept our eyes peeled for the well-known Friction Pitch and the V Pitch but weren't sure if we climbed them or missed them. It wasn't long before we stood alone on the summit of the Grand and reveled in the experience. Just as we were about to leave, a party of 3 AMGA guides showed up and asked if we wanted to share ropes for the rappel. The descent went smoothly and my knees were glad to be back in camp. Deciding to stay for an extra night proved thrilling as a massive lightning and hail storm threatened to blow us away. We woke to wind and clouds and were glad to have climbed the day before. The hike out was very enjoyable and made me want to get back to the Tetons as soon as possible.

Photos can be found here.


  • Comments or Questions

Brian and Glenn-     08/27/2012 04:24
Amazing photos and congrats on your accomplishment. I was just visiting in the Tetons with my girlfriend and was awestruck at the prominence of the Grand Teton and the teton range. I gotta get up there! Thanks for posting!


Redemption     08/27/2012 14:04
Nice TR and pics Brian, that sunrise looks amazing. Thats one hell of a view from the summit.

I can personally attest to Glen's sense of relief. Last time we tried the Grand was Aug of 2010. We drove 9 hours in the pouring rain, never even made it to Lupine Meadows, drove up and down 191 for 3 days waiting for a weather window, even got thundered off the local crag and hunted by a Grizzly Bear. Good times.

Dave B

Very nice     08/27/2012 14:58
Looks like the lower Exum is the best way to get to the upper. Nice report, you've been killing it this summer, Brian!


Pretty cool, Brian!     08/27/2012 16:03
Nice job tackling a classic. I understand the pressure of setting up a rap in front of guides! Also, just picked those Salewas up off of S&C - fairly comfortable and durable, though the rubber doesn't seem as sticky as Sportivas.

We completely missed the V pitch and almost missed friction at the hard left before exiting wind tunnel. Apparently, we missed the proper Golden Staircase too. Looks like you guys did a great job route-finding on the significantly harder route.

Chicago Transplant

Life List     08/28/2012 01:05
One of these days, maybe I will get to check this off the Life List. Great TR and congrats on your climb!

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