Buying Gear?  Click Here
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...
 Peak(s):  Atlantic Pk  -  13,841 feet
Fletcher Mtn  -  13,951 feet
"Drift Pk"  -  13,900 feet
 Post Date:  08/28/2012
 Date Climbed:   08/26/2012
 Posted By:  jbchalk

 Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse   

I wanted to relay some information/beta on this traverse as I couldn't find much on it other than a faint route description over on summitpost. I hope it helps some folks who intend on attempting this traverse.
Image
The Atlantic-Fletcher traverse with the 5 gendarmes labelled

My good buddy J and I had been eyeing this traverse for some time now. Dave Cooper in his Colorado Scrambles book calls it arguably the most dangerous of all the routes in his book. J and I found out that Cooper says this for good reason yet we both had alot of fun. The intense scrambling, routefinding, and technical rock climbing at over 13,000′ is just way too much fun. The traverse collects (3) high 13,000′ summits – Atlantic Peak (13,841′), Fletcher Mtn (13,951′), and Drift Peak (13,900′). The most difficult and dangerous section of the traverse is from Atlantic to Fletcher which includes navigating (5) pretty serious gendarmes and more than enough loose rock. The traverse from Fletcher to Drift is mostly class 2 off trail hiking with (1) 20′ rappel if going north to south. We chose to go north to south for the entire traverse as this allowed us to climb the low 5th class pitches of the gendarmes and the crux 5.7 pitch of the 5th gendarme. We like climbing the fun stuff rather than just rappelling it!
Image
The 5 gendarmes from Atlantic's west ridge

I had summitted each of these peaks before as J had summitted Atlantic, but we had never linked them all. We left the car at 6:45am and topped out on Atlantic Peak around 8:15am after climbing the west ridge which we had done a few times before in winter and summer. We then made our way down Atlantic’s fairly mellow (class 2/2+) south ridge to the low point of the ridge between Atlantic & Fletcher.
Image
Looking back at Atlantic's south ridge from the low point between Atlantic & Fletcher

There is a fairly straightforward descent down a scree gully from this low point to Mayflower Gulch if weather or climber's condition warrants a quick retreat. First on the agenda is the scramble up and over gendarme #1.
Image
The nice class 3/4 scramble up and over gendarme #1

There is another scree saddle/gully between gendarmes #1 & #2 which also likely lends itself to a quick descent back down to Mayflower Gulch. Gendarme #2 then quickly rears up in earnest.
Image
Gendarme #2. We scrambled pretty much straight up this face using the cracks

We climbed pretty much straight up the face for 30' - likely low 5th class or so.
Image
J climbing gendarme #2

Image
Looking down gendarme #2

From the top of gendarme #2, we traversed on and just below to the right (west) of the ridge proper on a sporty ledge system until we came to a big cliff that was not downclimable (at least by us). We found a nice chimney to scramble down on the west side of the ridge to avoid this cliff and scrambled back up to the notch below the cliff to regain the ridge.
Image
J on the sporty traverse down from the top of gendarme #2

Image
Scrambling down to avoid the cliff

Image
Coming around to regain the ridge

Image
J climbing up into the notch to regain the ridge below the cliff

It was then a nice traverse on the ridge's east side from the notch to avoid a minor tower and climb back up to regain the ridge at the base of gendarme #3.
Image
The traverse to gendarme #3 on the ridge's east side

Gendarme #3 provided some exciting low 5th class, potentially 5.4, climbing up a right (west)facing dihedral for about 20'. There were some slings around a rock at the top of gendarme #3 as I would definitely rap this pitch if going south to north.
Image
Our route up gendarme #3

Image
Looking down gendarme #3

The downclimb off of gendarme #3 was pretty fun and pretty steep. This led us to the base of the fun looking knife-edge ridge section.
Image
The dicey downclimb we did off of gendarme #3

Gendarme #4 immediately follows the knife-edge ridge.
Image
The fun knife-edge ridge (right) and gendarme #4 (left) from the base of gendarme #3

Image
J on the knife-edge ridge

Its completely unnecessary to top out on gendarme #4 as the route from the north & west to its top is very loose and steep. However, once you pass gendarme #4 to its right (west), you can scramble around on class 3/4 from the south to its summit.
Image
Our route up to the right of gendarme #4

Image
Looking back at the knife-edge ridge & gendarme #3 from just to the right (west) of gendarme #4

We did scramble up to the top of gendarme #4 primarily to get a preview of the crux of the route, gendarme #5. I had read in Cooper's book that this was likely a 5.7 finger crack, though not your typical 5.7 trad crack at your local crag. As I found out, loose holds abound this crack system and anything is on the verge of pulling out. However, the pro is fairly good and I was able to place 4 cams, I believe, up to the marked belay station. True to what I had read, it felt like a 5.7. Also, a 30m, 8mm rope was just enough to get me to the belay ledge.
Image
Our route up the 5.7 crack system of gendarme #5

Image
J cleaning the 5.7 gendarme #5

Image
J climbing gendarme #5

Now, in retrospect, and as we would recommend to anyone going north to south, stay roped up to the top of gendarme #5. We de-roped because the remaining climbing to the top seemed reasonable and not all that steep. We were wrong and half way up, it turned sketchy pretty fast and downclimbing was not an option. We topped out on gendarme #5 just fine but kicking ourselves for not staying roped up. I think there are a few places for some reasonable, perhaps mediocre at best, protection for this last 30' to the top of gendarme #5. If going south to north, I believe you would need to make (2) rappels down gendarme #5. You would need a 60m rope for the rap from our belay ledge to the base of the gendarme as my 30m barely was enough one way.
Image
J scrambling up the final 30' to the top of gendarme #5 from our belay ledge

Image
Very sketchy, loose, and airy low 5th class climbing. This picture doesn't show the pretty good exposure of this pitch

Image
Looking down from the top of gendarme #5

Image
The Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse to Atlantic Peak from the top of gendarme #5

We then scrambled up to the summit of Fletcher Mtn over much easier terrain (class 2+).
Image
J & I on the summit of Fletcher Mtn with the most difficult & dangerous part of the traverse behind us

The first half of the traverse to Drift Peak from Fletcher Mtn is nothing more than class 2 hiking.
Image
Descending to the Fletch-Drift traverse low point (Fletcher Mtn behind)

We then came upon a 20' shear drop that we didn't feel comfortable downclimbing, so we set up a quick rap. There may have been a downclimable route around, but honestly this was quicker and we didn't look too long.
Image
The fun 20' rap into the sharp notch on the Fletcher-Drift traverse

It was then pretty easy class 2+ scrambling on the ridge proper to the summit of Drift from the notch.
Image
J & I on the summit of Drift Peak

It took J & I right at 3 hrs and 45 minutes for the traverse from the summit of Atlantic to Drift including 25 min or so on top of Fletcher for some lunch and views, so not all that bad. We then descended Drift's west ridge, aka Villa Ridge, which I had climbed this past winter and which I defintely prefer to descend in the snow. The loose and sharp rock really put a hurting on the bottoms of my feet. We then arrived back at the car around 2:30pm and reflected on a great 8 hrs up high on an awesome traverse.

Even though the route is definitely loose and perhaps more dangerous than other traverses in the Gores or elsewhere, it is worthwhile for those seeking this kind of excitement. I hope these pics and route information help others plan their own Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse.

Thanks for reading,
Brandon



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
 


  • Comments or Questions
Monster5


Cool, Brandon!     2012-08-28 11:05:59
There's been mention of a 4th class variation that avoids the loose 5.7 though it leaves the traverse proper - any ideas on it? Nice description on the ridge. Villa Ridge is definitely better in winter.

Congrats on Kosi! And J seems to have forgot his trekking poles.


Carl


That's some solid beta!     2012-08-28 11:06:02
Wow. Thanks for the detailed report. Enjoyed reading about the climb and will definitely use this TR if we give it a go sometime.


lordhelmut


Beast Mode     2012-08-28 11:13:19
the mode you gotta be in when climbing this traverse. Nice work Brandon! That shot looking towards Atlantic should be nicknamed ”Dante's Inferno”. A nice little traverse through Hell. Looks like you guys came out clean the other side. Hell of a climb!


Floyd


This isn't the Gores???     2012-08-28 11:17:37
I thought you'd still be scouting for your Eagles Nest - Buffalo traverse with Helmut?

Awesome traverse and some strong climbing there. Nice job!!!


jpfeif001


Nice!!     2012-08-28 11:33:08
This just motivates me to finally start taking some technical climbing classes. That looked like a lot of fun, Great Job!


pioletski


Nice one Brandon!     2012-08-28 12:25:27
Thanks for posting a nice guide to the route, that one's going on the list.


djkest


Cool     2012-08-28 13:19:06
I looked at this a couple weeks ago and wondered how it would have been. Thanks for the report!

From the East:


From Atlantic:


jbchalk


Much appreciated, everyone...     2012-08-28 13:28:27
Knowing most of you all, this one shouold be on your tick list.

Ryan, I do remember of mention of a 4th class variation to the west (right) of the ridge proper up the 5th gendarme, but honestly I did not spend much time at all checking it out. Was just too pumped up for the 5.7 crack! On closer inspection of my pics, it does look like it would go at some very exposed/airy 4th class, low 5th. Yep, J left his trekking poles...I dont know why. Maybe he's finally second guessing climbing 4th/5th class with poles in hand. Thanks for the congrats on Kozzy. Beauty of a country down under.

Carl, I think you would like this route alot, man.

Brian, ”Dante's Inferno” sounds appropriate. Dude, you do come up with the damn good names. I dont think it was quite the traverse thru Hell, but that last 30 ft of free climbing up the 5th was pure Hell!

Floyd, I know...it is not the Gores. I was looking over at our Gores all day wishing here & there I was in them. Yep, got to scheme the GGore Traverse with helmut but only if Helmut invites me.

jpfeif001, yep, get on the ball with those tech climbing classes. Makes things much more exciting!

Matt, thanks man. You would love this as well, I would think. Hope you are well.



   Using your forum id/password. Not registered? Click Here


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

© 2014 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.