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Peak(s):  Mt. Bierstadt  -  14,066 feet
Mt. Blue Sky  -  14,268 feet
Date Posted:  06/27/2013
Date Climbed:   06/24/2013
Author:  James Scott
 Tour De Abyss   

This is my third Tour De Abyss, and if you've done this route, you can probably understand why. There isn't much simple walking, it's got a couple of downclimbs that can be tedious, but the rest of the day is highly enjoyable. Mostly, it drops you into a charming basin, and you climb up the other side and do a full "U" around it, left to right, gaining, in order, Bierstadt's south ridge, Bierstadt's summit, the Sawtooth, Evans' north ridge, and Evans' summit. If you 're lucky, you can get a ride from Evans' summit back to your car, making this about the only summit that marks the end of the climb.

A couple friends asked about doing Longs Peak later in the summer, and I suggested this route as a warm up- the technical climbing is similar, the exposure is similar, and it would be a great work out to get ready for Longs. Ashley and Holly both came through like Champs, handling their first class three scrambling with confidence and without incident. This was the first time I went up and over all the teeth on the Sawtooth without dropping down.

The most frightening part of the climb was looking back at the snow apron coming down off Bierstadt. While on it, the snow was soft but secure, and even though we went slow, it wasn't too jarring. From the Sawtooth, that snow looked extremely steep and dangerous, and we all had a hard time believing we had just traversed it. The climbing on the Sawtooth was energizing, and the ledges are wide enough that the extreme drop off didn't get into our head, and the beer at Tommyknockers was excellent as always.

Am I the only one who is bothered that people are leaving Which Wich sandwich wrappers on summits under rocks? It's an amusing promotion, but I wonder how many of the Colorado summits are now graced with wrappers so everyone can get their free sandwiches. It's also ironic how the people driving to the top of Evans and walking the last 200 feet are also snapping their summit Which Wich pictures for the free sandwich for summiting a 14er. I wonder how long this promotion will last.

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Epulet saddle under layer of fog

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Bierstadt south ridge from Evans/ Epulet saddle

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Holly and Ashley in the coulior

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mountain goat in coulior

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into the Abyss basin

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Abyss Lake, Sawtooth in background

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Holly making her way up to the ridge

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Ashley getting to ridge with Sawtooth in background

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along the south ridge of Bierstadt

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farther along

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Bierstadt summit

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Ashley's first summit, Holly's third!

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Sawtooth- easier than it looks

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making our way down Bierstadt to Sawtooth

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coming down off the second tooth

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third tooth- crux of the climbing

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Ashley on the third tooth

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Holly topping out on the third tooth

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Ashley in the chimney

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nearing the saddle turnoff

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along the ledges

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Ashley ignoring the extreme drop off below her

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beyond the Sawtooth

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Holly and Ashley relaxing - "We climbed that!"

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Evans summit- James

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Evans summit- Holly

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Evans summit- Ashley



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
zinj
User
I hadn't seen that view of Sawtooth
6/28/2013 2:09pm
from Abyss Lake...this might be my new favorite!

Congrats to Ashley for taking down Bierstadt the ”hard way”.

Just to clarify - which culoir were you climbing -- kind of SW direction from Abyss or did you continue around Bierstadt (from Epaulet Saddle) to climb above Frozen Lake?


James Scott
User
zinj-
6/28/2013 2:47pm
If I understand your question, we just climbed the rocky face to the west of Abyss Lake. Specifically, we parked off the Mt Evans road and walked to the saddle of Evans/ Epulet, dropped down a pretty obvious couloir there, walked to Abyss Lake, and crossed just on the south (lower) side of the lake where it drains out, then headed directly up the rocky face from there. It isn't really a couloir. Once we gained the ridge, it's a direct shot up to Bierstadt.



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