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This was my second venture over Music Pass into Sand Lakes Basin, the first years ago when Tijeras rebuffed my late season effort. This time, with my daughter, son, and fellow Arkansan Mark L. in tow, and stable weather above, I enjoyed a fun scramble leading to sweeping views of the Sangres. There have been some excellent recent TR's covering this fine peak, so find here an abbreviated report with a few photos that may be of help to those considering the climb. Next my daughter and I hiked up to Milwaukee Pass where we admired the peak's exposed crux and stunning views of Broken Hand, the Crestones, Cottonwood drainage, Pico Aislado, Marble Mountain, Humboldt Peak, Music Pass and on and and on and on...
Tijeras Peak
Tijeras above Lower Sand Creek Lake
We left the north shore of Lower Sand Creek Lake and hiked NNW to the lower slope of Music's East Ridge which we paralleled until well up the basin. There we turned south and found easy willow-free going across the basin to the Tijeras-Music cliff band. I've been in both ramps. The "left" ramp is lower in the basin, easier to locate, shorter, steeper, and the approach more guarded with willows. The "right" gully is further west up the basin than one might think, approx. a half mile along the cliff band from the lower ramp, and can be difficult to see in certain light. It is longer, less steep, looser than the "left" ramp and might be more properly called a gully. We opted to ascend and descend the "right" ramp. From the top of the ramp we hiked west up gentle grassy slopes to the Tijeras-Music saddle then followed the ridge proper to the summit. A small notch near the summit can be easily skirted to climber's right. In this shot the "left" ramp is directly below the summit. The main ramp is out of frame to the right.
Main access ramp.
From the base of the main ramp along the cliff band to Music Mountain.
Scooting up the main ramp.
Fun scrambling near the summit.
Summit view south with the Blanca Group in the distance.
North to Muisc, Milwaukee, the Crestones. And a hero.
Above acccess ramp: Lower Sand Creek Lake and Music Pass.
Milwaukee Pass
On day two, my daughter and I hiked to Milwaukee Pass via the Cottonwood Pass Trail which we picked up below Upper Sand Creek Lake. The route led us into the beautiful basin below Milwaukee and Unnamed 13,161'. From the sweeping Milwaukee-13,161' saddle which overlooks South Colony, the trail to Milwaukee pass is strong and well-maintained. (recent work of the CMC?) This is an enjoyable day hike from either of the Sand Creek Lakes. The views from the ridge to Milwaukee Pass are spectacular: Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle on full display. Milwaukee Pass itself puts one right close to the crux ledges and just 150' below the peak's summit. The Cottonwood drainage and Milwaukee-Pico Aislado connecting ridge are also in plain view from the pass. A sweet spot indeed.
Arching ledges and roofs below Milwaukee's Northeast Face.
Aim for the saddle, turn left.
From the saddle - Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle.
From the saddle back toward to Sand Creek Lakes and Music Pass.
Broken Hand Peak
Looking back into the Sand Lakes area with Marble and Music Pass beyond.
Looking up to the pass and Milwaukee's summit (l) and exposed ledge pitch.
The connecting ridge to Pico Aislado.
West into the Cottnwood drainage.
Hannah waiting on the ridge below.
From Milwaukee Pass to Music Pass.
Back down into the basin.
Team Arkansas.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Glad you enjoyed the photos.
We had the whole basin to ourselves for nearly three days. Both lakes make for great bases from which to explore the surrounding peaks.
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