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Mt. Sneffels via Standard Route but bypassing the gully
Started: Lower Trailhead at the Restroom
I haven't seen any trip reports recently for Sneffels so I figured I would write one after my hike up there this weekend. Plus I'd like to mention the variation to the standard route, that goes up around the gully. Seems to be a more enjoyable route, especially if you don't have proper snow gear right now.
Here we go...
My friend and I made a last minute decision on Saturday night around 9:00PM to hike Sneffels the following morning. I live in Bayfield, he lives in Durango, so it was an early morning for the both of us. 2:30AM came way too early for me. I was going on 3.5 hours of sleep but nothing was going to keep me from heading towards Ouray. We arrived at the trailhead around 6:30AM. Despite both of us having been to Yankee Boy Basin a few times, we still were able to get lost by making a few wrong turns on the way. Not our best moments. I blame the lack of sleep.
The road conditions are spot on to a previous poster's trailhead condition report. There are deep swales cut out of the road just past the Yankee Boy Basin sign. 2wd vehicles will have to stop here. We were passed by someone in an Audi SUV and a Honda CR-V, which were able to make it to the lower trailhead (restroom area). We were in a truck, so it was a little emasculating.
Anyways, moving on to the hike.
Rain was in the forecast for around noonish, so we wanted to get up and down quickly.
Starting off at the lower trailhead.
Gilpin Peak from further up the 4x4 road.
Southwest Ridge
Sunshine hitting Sneffels as we started up the south slope to Lavender Col.
Looking back towards Gilpin Peak and the southern portion of the Southwest Ridge.
The hike up the col wasn't too bad. It was a little wet in places and loose in many places. Ross if you're reading this, stop snickering at that last sentence. Grow up. Gosh.
Once we reached the saddle we could see plenty of snow was still left in the gully about halfway up.
This is where the fun began. We hiked up the gully and tested the snow. It was sloppy and unstable at first, but as we got up another 10 feet and towards the middle it was harder. Kicking steps into it without crampons was doable. However, you'll want poles or an axe for insurance and assurance. We got 20-30 feet up and decided it just wasn't feeling that good or safe continuing on without proper gear. We're both new to hiking up steep snow slopes so didn't want to push it.
As we went back down off the snow, we decided to follow a young gentleman up through a narrow chute to gain the ridge south of the gully (left side of the gully if you're looking at the picture above). We gained the ridge at about the same location where the snow spans the entire width of the gully. There was some class 3 scrambling, maybe a class 4 move, I'm not sure. But the rock was solid and it was easy to pull yourself up a series of ledges. Once we got to the ridge crest, it was fun class 2+ scrambling all the way to the top.
Looking up the ridge to Sneffel's summit.
Looking back where we gained the ridge (in line with the saddle leading to "Kismet")
Roach talks about this route in his book, but I'm not sure why it doesn't get more publicity on here. It was a blast and the rock was solid. You can choose your route all the way to the top. Even if the gully was clear of snow, I'd much rather take this route, instead of getting a rock sammich to the face.
After 20 minutes of fun scrambling, we were on the summit of Mt. Sneffels. For as popular as the mountain is, I was surprised to find just us three up there for 10 minutes.
Hard to beat these views
Matt and I at the summit.
Here's a look at a steeper section on the way down. You have to cross a small snow gully on this route, but it's not too steep and steps were already kicked in. I think you could even bypass it if you followed it up the mountain towards the notch.
Heading back down to the lower trailhead. Gotta love this area!
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Thanks for the feedback. I know it wasn't a difficult hike, but thought the route around the gully might help out some people planning on hiking Sneffels without any snow gear.
@jjarrard913 - We got up to the summit in 3 hours, but we wasted 30 minutes at the base of the snow in the gully because we weren't sure what we wanted to do. Would've taken us 2.5 hours from the lower trailhead (where the bathroom is). We were at the summit at 9:30 and back at the truck by 11:15. I'd plan for 5-6 hours. You could do it faster though.
Thanks BodenTA! We want to hike up the SW ridge and down the standard route. With the SW ridge, I imagine a lot of stopping and scratching our heads to pick the best route (and maybe to side step some snow from what I read in other report). 5-6 hours is about what I expected, but thanks for confirming!
The weather this weekend looked a little unstable and with the head scratching we are sure to do we postponed the trip to Monday, and as of now looks like clear skies!
Any pics of where you entered the chute? 8/18/2014 1:21am
Good route description on the variation, BodenTA. Thank you for posting. I'd appreciate any more beta you might have on where you departed the gully and entered the chute. As you described ”following the young man.”
Thanks.
Knots, sent you a PM with a picture and the approximate routes I took exiting the gully on the ascent and entering the gully on the descent. Really it's not too difficult to find a way up onto that ridge.
Hi- Great TR and beautimous pictures! What’s your opinion of that steep gulley up to the saddle? It looks like there may be a way to the left to avoid most of the loose rock and scree on the way up. Good pair of boots and patience do it? Will I need my micro spikes for the Lavendor Col. in early August you think? I’ll have my trekking poles and helmet for a little extra support and protection. There are 5 of us going this Summer, 2015! Thanks for any extra tips on your experience! ..Joe
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