Peak(s):	Torreys Peak - 14,272 feet
Date Posted:	08/04/2014
Date Climbed:	07/12/2014
Author:	Lville

Kelso Ridge
Stats TH 6:00 am Grays/Torreys Kelso Ridge Saddle 7 am Top at 9:00a Depart top at 9:45 (down standard route) Parking lot at 11:50 Elevation: 11,280 to 14,267. Gain: 3100 Distance: 6.75 mi RT Intro Torreys Peak via Kelso Ridge, my sixth 14er of the season and 16th overall, represented my first repeat, having hiked Torreys' standard route just last year with my wife for her first 14er. I double-dipped because it was part of a summer progression in building my Class 3 experience so that I might take on more Class 3 and maybe some Class 4. The Crestones come to mind. My only other Class 3 was Longs in 2013. I had read most of the trip reports and forum discussions comparing some of the Class 3 "classics" - Longs Keyhole, Kelso Ridge, Sawtooth, Wetterhorn - and not only do I want to get each of these on my resume, but I want to see them for myself and form my own opinions of each. In addition, I was maybe a little worn out from driving several hours and camping out each of the last three weekends. Kelso would be nice as I could just get up at home a little earlier (3:15 AM'ish) and do the drive and climb in one shot and be back before anyone missed me. The only problem was that I didn't have anyone to accompany me. This has not really been an issue on most of my hikes thus far, but I was a bit uncomfortable going solo on Kelso Ridge. I didn't expect route-finding to be a huge deal necessarily, but I'm just always concerned about twisting an ankle or similar with a storm moving in and no one nearby. As good fortune would have it, one-half of the "HarknessHooligans" responded to my forum request for a partner (thanks Ashley!) to tell me that her husband Matt would be up there with friends around the same time. I caught up with Matt and his buds Ken and Christian at the Kelso Ridge saddle which worked out great. Matt had been up Kelso Ridge before and they were kind enough to let me tag along, so my anxiety level went way down (thanks guys!) Parking (Saturday 7/12/14) Everyone knows that the Grays/Torreys combo is extremely popular and the trailhead parking lot fills quickly. This was my third time up to this trailhead - Grays was my first 'teener in 2000 or so with my brother, and then Torreys last year - but I did not recall the trail being as crowded as on this day. Literally hundreds of people throughout the day heading up the standard route. Arriving at the TH at 5:30a, I was able to secure a good spot at the top. By 5:45 or 6:00, you might be SOL and have to park along the road somewhere - perhaps quite far down. There are lots of reports on this road. You might get a 2WD up it, but w/ difficulty. Very straightforward for my F150, and no exposure to speak of on the road. The Hike The weather report said "showers 70% after noon" which wasn't encouraging. It was cloudier than usual for early morning which made me pretty nervous for this hike, but the clouds never really developed further by the time I made it back around noon. Weather is almost always my biggest concern on these hikes. I know enough to not let a "70% after noon" or even "70% after 10AM" stop me until I see it for myself, but I also know that a "50% after noon" can turn into a hailing electrical storm well before the noon hour. Lots and lots of folks on the trail. Crowded, yes, but good to see people out getting exercise. I was focused on getting up to the Kelso saddle as quickly as possible in the hopes of beating the weather and perhaps catching up with Matt and company who I figured were up ahead of me. I made decent time to the Kelso saddle where I saw three fellas looking around and taking pictures. I crossed my fingers that it was the group I was looking for, and sure enough it was. After introductions, I explained to the trio, 20 years or so my junior, that I did not wish to slow them down, but I sure hoped I could keep up since Matt knew the route and I didn't immediately see anyone behind me if I got into trouble. Turns out my concerns were unfounded as I didn't lag too far behind and Matt/Ken/Christian kept a watchful eye on me anyway the whole way up. While this route was certainly not busy, I saw a person or two in front of us and there were maybe eight or ten others that I saw ascend later. I was so intent on keeping up, that I didn't get my usual cache of pictures, but I grabbed a few shots, and my new friends took plenty of pictures which was great because, hiking alone, I don't usually get many shots of myself! Plus, their picture taking would allow me to keep pace. At one point, Matt was getting out "GU bars", and he offered to share. I had heard a lot of good things about these energy enhancers so I selected one. I didn't wish to be impolite as this was a gift, but I think the first thing to come out of my mouth was something along the lines of "Gross!". And the second thing to come out of my mouth was the goo. No not really (on the second part). I gratefully, if obligatorily, forced it down over the next few minutes, though it meant continuing the climb w/ only one hand. But after I finished it off, I realized there was an unexpected second advantage. The goo was so sticky and messy that it was going to help w/ my grip on the Class 3 portions. With "stickum" all over my person, I suddenly felt like "Lester the Molester" from the Raiders 80's defensive backfield, and I was ready to tackle this mountain. So, I mentioned that my need to move expeditiously limited my camera time, but it evidently also had the effect of causing me to focus on what was directly in front of me so I don't think I stopped to ponder much about the intermittent exposure that was encountered on this ridge. Either that, or it just really didn't have that much of an effect on me. Frankly, it mostly was just fun with what seemed to be fairly straightforward climbing along a choice of multiple lines in places, and it seemed to be over quickly. Even the vaunted "knife edge" didn't make much of an impression. Sure, it was cool, and there was some exposure, but the rock was so solid with secure hand- and foot-holds that it just didn't seem that dangerous and it was so short. There were places along the route where I relied on my hands to pull myself up w/ support from my feet, but I never felt like my safety was at risk. Probably the worst part for me was the final approach on steep scree. I took my time here and was on all fours for balance and to avoid sliding. Also, I scraped my leg climbing off of the "white rock" onto the 30 foot patch of snow just after the knife edge. I stepped onto the wet snow and my foot slipped. I actually had packed my newly-purchased microspikes and I probably should have just put them on to test them out and avoid the scrape, but they're really not needed if you're just careful. The snow patch may be gone by now in early August. I should also mention that you encounter a stretch of snow on the way down near the Torreys/Grays saddle that looks straightforward, but can be very slippery with some consequences if not careful. I was glad to have my poles for this part - but again, should have just thrown on the spikes and crossed easily. Navigating this stretch in tennis shoes and no poles as some were doing seemed a bit risky to me but I saw no one fall. I don't know if my recently gained technical rock-climbing experience helped (I'm sure it did somewhat), or if I'm just not remembering it all correctly as I write this three weeks later. Kelso Ridge is probably not for everybody, but if the weather is good and you're prepared, I just can't say that it had much of a freak factor. I can't even begin to compare it to Longs which sketched me out much more and is of course in a completely different class in terms of trip length and endurance requirements. Since KR is relatively close, fairly short, and fun, I'll probably go back again soon and revisit everything. In spite of the fact that I may be having trouble recalling the entire hike, I absolutely do remember feeling a wonderful sense of achievement and feeling grateful to Matt, Ken, and Christian that I was able to join them. I hung out on Torreys for a bit as they headed on up to Grays and then I hurried down as I had to get home. But first I pulled out my camping chair next to my truck and enjoyed a well-earned beverage while I basked in the joy of my accomplishment. Fun times. Free Gear Tips! I brought my climbing helmet with me and I put it on and kept it on when the scrambling started. The chances of a fall seemed quite low, but it does come in handy if you have your head down to make an awkward move and then lift up and whack your coconut on an overhanging rock that you didn't realize was there - which has happened to me on more than one occasion. I've now made it a rule to just always wear it for anything Class 3 or above. And, maybe more importantly, for the first time, I had a dislodged football-sized rock come rolling down a gulley at me which I was able to dodge with sufficient warning, but I was glad to have the helmet on. Just get one for Class 3. Also, I like my PMI fingerless belay gloves as long as it's not too cold. The gloves will protect your hands on the rock, and still give your fingertips the freedom to grip rocks, unzip things, and manage the camera. I wasn't sure if I wanted the little connector between the middle and ring finger that aids in removal, but now I wouldn't have them without this helpful device. I actually wear them all the time now just to protect against all-day chafing on the trekking poles and the occasional hands-down-as-feet-slide-out-from-under-you on a steep scree slope. Plus they look cool. Finally, as I continue to evolve on the gear front, I nabbed a little case for my GPS that hooked onto the front strap of my backpack. I constantly check the elevation on my GPS as it gives me a morale boost to see my progress. I previously had stored the GPS in my pants pocket which was a hassle and time-consuming to pull it out all the time, not to mention having it beep incessantly if I pressed against it - probably grabbing waypoints or something. It was nice to have the darn thing so readily accessible to me. I'm sure I'm not the first person who ever thought of this. Now I just need something similar on the other strap for my camera. On to the Pictures Some of these pictures were taken by Matt, and possibly some by Ken and/or Christian. 7:09a. (6AM start). Looking back at the saddle and valley approach. The photoshop-enhanced vegetation pairs nicely w/ my s 7:11a. A more honest green. Easy/fun scrambling. I like the challenge of carrying my unwieldy poles in one hand. 7:31a. The "white wall" around 13K. More fun scrambling. Not steep enough to be dangerous. Just go carefully. 7:36a. My new friends Matt and Ken who graciously allowed me to climb with them. 7:36a. And Christian pondering his next move. This picture might look intimidating in two dimensions. There is a route th 7:45a. At top of white wall, there's some more white rock. Less steep, but loose rock. I've switched from hat to helmet. 7:56a. Kelso mtn's beautiful ridgeline. The saddle is down to the right, out of view. 8:02a. On all fours for some of the looser rock scrambling. And that's the I70 turnoff in the far back looking down the bac 8:20a. I don't think Matt/Ken were planning the Capt Morgan pose. 8:20a. Still lots of snow on surrounding peaks. Not sure of direction here. West maybe to the Gore range. 8:45a. Finally at the knife edge. The situation looks more precarious than it felt. 8:46a. And ... across with a smile. Took one minute at most. 8:47a. Matt in position to get a shot of Christian "on the edge". 8:50a. The knife edge mastered, Ken is now up on the "white rock". 8:50a. A bit blurry, but this is looking down the "Dead Dog Couloir". Yes, the two dots in the middle are climbers. 8:58a. The final stretch. Looks very simple but I hated this part. Very slippery for me. 8:58a. The "knife edge" and "white rock", but also the stretch of snow where I cut myself stepping from the white rock to th 9:15a. Southwest into Chihauhau Gulch. 9:15a. Matt/Christian/Ken enjoying some snacks at the top. Thanks again fellas! 9:30a. My peak shot. I just feel elation when I get these things knocked out. 9:34a. Southwest. Mtns should be correct. I think that's Breck and not Keystone. 9:48a. The approach to Grays/Torreys is sandwiched between McClellan mtn on the right and Kelso left. Kelso saddle far left. 9:48a. Grays w/ lots of people specks. My first in 2000(?) with my brother. Note the snow crossing in the middle. 10:16a. Close-up of the snow crossing. Just step carefully! 11:10a. Kelso ridge. Saddle is off the picture. Dead Dog couloir is the snow valley just right of Torreys Peak. 11:34a. I love folks' flower pics. I hope to get better at this! I think it's the camera ... 11:34a. A little closer. 11:52a. Back at the parking lot. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Kelso Ridge

Stats

TH 6:00 am Grays/Torreys
Kelso Ridge Saddle 7 am
Top at 9:00a
Depart top at 9:45 (down standard route)
Parking lot at 11:50
Elevation: 11,280 to 14,267. Gain: 3100
Distance: 6.75 mi RT

Intro

Torreys Peak via Kelso Ridge, my sixth 14er of the season and 16th overall, represented my first repeat, having hiked Torreys' standard route just last year with my wife for her first 14er. I double-dipped because it was part of a summer progression in building my Class 3 experience so that I might take on more Class 3 and maybe some Class 4. The Crestones come to mind. My only other Class 3 was Longs in 2013. I had read most of the trip reports and forum discussions comparing some of the Class 3 "classics" - Longs Keyhole, Kelso Ridge, Sawtooth, Wetterhorn - and not only do I want to get each of these on my resume, but I want to see them for myself and form my own opinions of each. In addition, I was maybe a little worn out from driving several hours and camping out each of the last three weekends. Kelso would be nice as I could just get up at home a little earlier (3:15 AM'ish) and do the drive and climb in one shot and be back before anyone missed me.

The only problem was that I didn't have anyone to accompany me. This has not really been an issue on most of my hikes thus far, but I was a bit uncomfortable going solo on Kelso Ridge. I didn't expect route-finding to be a huge deal necessarily, but I'm just always concerned about twisting an ankle or similar with a storm moving in and no one nearby. As good fortune would have it, one-half of the "HarknessHooligans" responded to my forum request for a partner (thanks Ashley!) to tell me that her husband Matt would be up there with friends around the same time. I caught up with Matt and his buds Ken and Christian at the Kelso Ridge saddle which worked out great. Matt had been up Kelso Ridge before and they were kind enough to let me tag along, so my anxiety level went way down (thanks guys!)

Parking (Saturday 7/12/14)

Everyone knows that the Grays/Torreys combo is *extremely* popular and the trailhead parking lot fills quickly. This was my third time up to this trailhead - Grays was my first 'teener in 2000 or so with my brother, and then Torreys last year - but I did not recall the trail being as crowded as on this day. Literally hundreds of people throughout the day heading up the standard route. Arriving at the TH at 5:30a, I was able to secure a good spot at the top. By 5:45 or 6:00, you might be SOL and have to park along the road somewhere - perhaps quite far down. There are lots of reports on this road. You might get a 2WD up it, but w/ difficulty. Very straightforward for my F150, and no exposure to speak of on the road.

The Hike

The weather report said "showers 70% after noon" which wasn't encouraging. It was cloudier than usual for early morning which made me pretty nervous for this hike, but the clouds never really developed further by the time I made it back around noon. Weather is almost always my biggest concern on these hikes. I know enough to not let a "70% after noon" or even "70% after 10AM" stop me until I see it for myself, but I also know that a "50% after noon" can turn into a hailing electrical storm well before the noon hour.

Lots and lots of folks on the trail. Crowded, yes, but good to see people out getting exercise. I was focused on getting up to the Kelso saddle as quickly as possible in the hopes of beating the weather and perhaps catching up with Matt and company who I figured were up ahead of me. I made decent time to the Kelso saddle where I saw three fellas looking around and taking pictures. I crossed my fingers that it was the group I was looking for, and sure enough it was. After introductions, I explained to the trio, 20 years or so my junior, that I did not wish to slow them down, but I sure hoped I could keep up since Matt knew the route and I didn't immediately see anyone behind me if I got into trouble.

Turns out my concerns were unfounded as I didn't lag too far behind and Matt/Ken/Christian kept a watchful eye on me anyway the whole way up. While this route was certainly not busy, I saw a person or two in front of us and there were maybe eight or ten others that I saw ascend later. I was so intent on keeping up, that I didn't get my usual cache of pictures, but I grabbed a few shots, and my new friends took plenty of pictures which was great because, hiking alone, I don't usually get many shots of myself! Plus, their picture taking would allow me to keep pace.

At one point, Matt was getting out "GU bars", and he offered to share. I had heard a lot of good things about these energy enhancers so I selected one. I didn't wish to be impolite as this *was* a gift, but I think the first thing to come out of my mouth was something along the lines of "Gross!". And the second thing to come out of my mouth was the goo. No not really (on the second part). I gratefully, if obligatorily, forced it down over the next few minutes, though it meant continuing the climb w/ only one hand. But after I finished it off, I realized there was an unexpected second advantage. The goo was so sticky and messy that it was going to help w/ my grip on the Class 3 portions. With "stickum" all over my person, I suddenly felt like "Lester the Molester" from the Raiders 80's defensive backfield, and I was ready to tackle this mountain.

So, I mentioned that my need to move expeditiously limited my camera time, but it evidently also had the effect of causing me to focus on what was directly in front of me so I don't think I stopped to ponder much about the intermittent exposure that was encountered on this ridge. Either that, or it just really didn't have that much of an effect on me. Frankly, it mostly was just fun with what seemed to be fairly straightforward climbing along a choice of multiple lines in places, and it seemed to be over quickly. Even the vaunted "knife edge" didn't make much of an impression. Sure, it was cool, and there was some exposure, but the rock was so solid with secure hand- and foot-holds that it just didn't seem that dangerous and it was so short. There were places along the route where I relied on my hands to pull myself up w/ support from my feet, but I never felt like my safety was at risk.

Probably the worst part for me was the final approach on steep scree. I took my time here and was on all fours for balance and to avoid sliding. Also, I scraped my leg climbing off of the "white rock" onto the 30 foot patch of snow just after the knife edge. I stepped onto the wet snow and my foot slipped. I actually had packed my newly-purchased microspikes and I probably should have just put them on to test them out and avoid the scrape, but they're really not needed if you're just careful. The snow patch may be gone by now in early August. I should also mention that you encounter a stretch of snow on the way down near the Torreys/Grays saddle that looks straightforward, but can be very slippery with some consequences if not careful. I was glad to have my poles for this part - but again, should have just thrown on the spikes and crossed easily. Navigating this stretch in tennis shoes and no poles as some were doing seemed a bit risky to me but I saw no one fall.

I don't know if my recently gained technical rock-climbing experience helped (I'm sure it did somewhat), or if I'm just not remembering it all correctly as I write this three weeks later. Kelso Ridge is probably not for everybody, but if the weather is good and you're prepared, I just can't say that it had much of a freak factor. I can't even begin to compare it to Longs which sketched me out much more and is of course in a completely different class in terms of trip length and endurance requirements. Since KR is relatively close, fairly short, and fun, I'll probably go back again soon and revisit everything.

In spite of the fact that I may be having trouble recalling the entire hike, I absolutely *do* remember feeling a wonderful sense of achievement and feeling grateful to Matt, Ken, and Christian that I was able to join them.

I hung out on Torreys for a bit as they headed on up to Grays and then I hurried down as I had to get home. But first I pulled out my camping chair next to my truck and enjoyed a well-earned beverage while I basked in the joy of my accomplishment. Fun times.

Free Gear Tips!

I brought my climbing helmet with me and I put it on and kept it on when the scrambling started. The chances of a fall seemed quite low, but it does come in handy if you have your head down to make an awkward move and then lift up and whack your coconut on an overhanging rock that you didn't realize was there - which has happened to me on more than one occasion. I've now made it a rule to just always wear it for anything Class 3 or above. And, maybe more importantly, for the first time, I had a dislodged football-sized rock come rolling down a gulley at me which I was able to dodge with sufficient warning, but I was glad to have the helmet on. Just get one for Class 3.

Also, I like my PMI fingerless belay gloves as long as it's not too cold. The gloves will protect your hands on the rock, and still give your fingertips the freedom to grip rocks, unzip things, and manage the camera. I wasn't sure if I wanted the little connector between the middle and ring finger that aids in removal, but now I wouldn't have them without this helpful device. I actually wear them all the time now just to protect against all-day chafing on the trekking poles and the occasional hands-down-as-feet-slide-out-from-under-you on a steep scree slope. Plus they look cool.

Finally, as I continue to evolve on the gear front, I nabbed a little case for my GPS that hooked onto the front strap of my backpack. I constantly check the elevation on my GPS as it gives me a morale boost to see my progress. I previously had stored the GPS in my pants pocket which was a hassle and time-consuming to pull it out all the time, not to mention having it beep incessantly if I pressed against it - probably grabbing waypoints or something. It was nice to have the darn thing so readily accessible to me. I'm sure I'm not the first person who ever thought of this. Now I just need something similar on the other strap for my camera.

On to the Pictures

Some of these pictures were taken by Matt, and possibly some by Ken and/or Christian.

7:09a. (6AM start). Looking back at the saddle and valley approach. The photoshop-enhanced vegetation pairs nicely w/ my s

7:11a. A more honest green. Easy/fun scrambling. I like the challenge of carrying my unwieldy poles in one hand.

7:31a. The "white wall" around 13K. More fun scrambling. Not steep enough to be dangerous. Just go carefully.

7:36a. My new friends Matt and Ken who graciously allowed me to climb with them.

7:36a. And Christian pondering his next move. This picture might look intimidating in two dimensions. There *is* a route th

7:45a. At top of white wall, there's some more white rock. Less steep, but loose rock. I've switched from hat to helmet.

7:56a. Kelso mtn's beautiful ridgeline. The saddle is down to the right, out of view.

8:02a. On all fours for some of the looser rock scrambling. And that's the I70 turnoff in the far back looking down the bac

8:20a. I don't think Matt/Ken were planning the Capt Morgan pose.

8:20a. Still lots of snow on surrounding peaks. Not sure of direction here. West maybe to the Gore range.

8:45a. Finally at the knife edge. The situation looks more precarious than it felt.

8:46a. And ... across with a smile. Took one minute at most.

8:47a. Matt in position to get a shot of Christian "on the edge".

8:50a. The knife edge mastered, Ken is now up on the "white rock".

8:50a. A bit blurry, but this is looking down the "Dead Dog Couloir". Yes, the two dots in the middle are climbers.

8:58a. The final stretch. Looks very simple but I hated this part. Very slippery for me.

8:58a. The "knife edge" and "white rock", but also the stretch of snow where I cut myself stepping from the white rock to th

9:15a. Matt/Christian/Ken enjoying some snacks at the top. Thanks again fellas!

9:30a. My peak shot. I just feel elation when I get these things knocked out.

9:34a. Southwest. Mtns should be correct. I *think* that's Breck and not Keystone.

9:48a. The approach to Grays/Torreys is sandwiched between McClellan mtn on the right and Kelso left. Kelso saddle far left.

9:48a. Grays w/ lots of people specks. My first in 2000(?) with my brother. Note the snow crossing in the middle.

10:16a. Close-up of the snow crossing. Just step carefully!

11:10a. Kelso ridge. Saddle is off the picture. Dead Dog couloir is the snow valley just right of Torreys Peak.

11:34a. I love folks' flower pics. I hope to get better at this! I think it's the camera ...

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

HarknessHooligans	Congrats! 8/5/2014 9:48am I'm glad everything worked out for you! The guys were happy to have you join them. That was Matts 3rd time on Kelso Ridge and he plans to keep going back because it's so close and fun. You did a great job! Perspective is interesting because I was more intimidated in this route than Longs (minus the length). Either way, finishing a task like this is very rewarding. Hope to catch ya on some other mountain! (Ps. I hate those goo's too but also have to force them down. They really do work and are totally worth it. We usually being a zip lock bag to trash them so we don't have goo seeping all over)
Tatra	congrats! 8/6/2014 3:58am Awesome job on the climb and trip report Norm! Congrats! Now you are ready for the Elks! Sylwia
Lville	Thanks! 8/6/2014 3:13pm Ashley - Running into Matt and co on the saddle was great and made it much easier mentally I think. And zip lock is a great idea. I couldn't quite figure out what to do w/ the gooey container! Sylwia - The Elks - Ha! Maybe next summer. Just let me know when you want to take me up there! (um, standard routes only) Next up is Wetterhorn and I can't wait. Will try to nab Redcloud/Sunshine too.

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Stats

Intro

Parking (Saturday 7/12/14)

The Hike

Free Gear Tips!

On to the Pictures

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