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RT Distance: 14 miles RT Gain: 4,600' RT Time: 6.5 hours Climber(s): Jeff (SurfNTurf)
Mt. Harvard has crooned its siren song in my direction all summer. Of all the 14ers, it was the one I'd least-recently visited, way back in March 2011. I'd also never seen Horn Fork Basin in summer, and because I'd forgotten my camera during that March excursion, Harvard was one of the few 14ers on which I lacked a summit photo. I've even toyed with the idea of writing a TR for every 14er. All of those reasons are good and all, but in the end, who needs an excuse to go hiking on a gorgeous summer Saturday?
I woke up at 2:30 a.m. to meet colokeith and a few others for a climb of Kendall Mountain. I'd only managed an hour or two of sleep, and I was so tired I actually felt nauseous. An apologetic text to Keith later, I was back in bed with a new alarm set for 5 a.m. Finally getting in my car, I had no firm idea of where I was going. The I-70/C-470 junction forced me into a decision. Knowing that the forecast in the Sawatch was best and that Harvard was near the top of my list to repeat, I chose to head down to U.S. 285 and cruise toward Buena Vista.
Arriving at an overflowing parking lot at 8 a.m. is an odd feeling. I was always a stickler for starting early, and I still am when it's warranted, but the forecast was good and the plan was to move fast (for a hiker; I don't usually run). It actually worked out pretty well. If you want some solitude on a summer 14er, just start super early or super late. I only saw 6-7 people all day until I caught the peloton just short of the summit block.
Walking along the initial trail was like a jaunt down memory lane. Sadly, many of the friends I made that weekend of the Winter Gathering 2011 aren't around anymore. It was the first time I hiked with James Graham (aka Fletch, now living in California), who would go on to become one of my favorite partners. Terry Mathews, Jim DiNapoli and Steve Gladbach, all three of whom I was encountering for the first time, are no longer with us. I'll never forget the feeling I had when Steve approached our tent. I was like a 14-year-old girl meeting Justin Bieber. It was my first winter camping trip, and Harvard/Columbia were only something like Nos. 15-16 on the 14ers list for me. I was new to the game, and Steve was a legend.
Because it turned into a reflective walk, I'm going to include some of Jim's pictures from the March 2011 trip - with credit to the talented photographer, of course.
The trail was surprisingly flat, nothing like I remembered it was we snowshoed in at dusk with 60-pound packs three years prior. The miles melted away. It would be hard to get lost on the well-marked route, but when in doubt, take a right and follow signs for Horn Fork. Campsites start to appear pretty low and continue on up to the highest reaches of treeline. There are some gorgeous spots up there, and I saw a ton of people taking advantage of it. Horn Fork Basin is definitely going on my list of places for a summer overnight. Try as I might, I couldn't identify the exact meadow that served as base in 2011. The trail seemed to stay too far to hiker's left.
Breaking timberline, the well-defined trail remained fairly gradual. There are some sections where you have to walk through a veritable willow tunnel, but just look over your shoulder at the stunning views of Mt. Yale every few minutes and the misery will fade.
Winter Gathering 2011 campsite in Horn Fork Basin. (Photo credit: Jim DiNapoli.)
August 2014.
March 2011, with me (red gaiters), James, Vince, Speth and Chris. (Photo credit: Jim DiNapoli.)
August 2014.
March 2011. (Photo credit: Jim DiNapoli.)
The route finally steepens at a rocky headwall. After talus hopping for a few hundred feet, you arrive back on a dirt path in a high upper basin. The remaining trail to the blocky summit becomes obvious. There's a short reprieve on flat ground before it gets very steep as you slog up toward the ridge. I remembered this section being a moderate avalanche concern back in 2011. We took turns sprinting up to the ridge as fast as possible, and then followed the ridge proper instead of the trail down on the face.
About 500 feet short of the summit, I caught the main body of climbers. I'd almost thought Harvard wouldn't be crowded. Wrong! The standard summer conga line ensued. It wasn't too bad except for a bottleneck up the Class 2+/3 section right at the base of the summit. It was much more straightforward than my previous ascent, when snow covered the obvious path and we faced a terrifyingly exposed scramble to the top.
Talus section up the headwall.
Looking back from the top of the headwall, August 2014.
Same spot, March 2011. That's my group ascending. This is one of my favorite photos, printed and in a frame. (Photo credi
Final section to the summit.
The traverse across to Mt. Columbia.
Almost there, August 2014.
Almost there, March 2011. (Photo credit: Jim DiNapoli.)
Looking back on the route, from the top.
Here comes trouble.
Belford/Oxford.
I finally have a summit shot on Mt. Harvard.
Harvard/Columbia Traverse.
My goal had been to top out in three hours or less, but it took me roughly 3:15. I'm still carrying a bit of surgery weight and I haven't gotten out as much as usual this summer. Ah well. Good motivation to train harder. I lingered on the summit for 20-30 minutes, snapped the coveted #summitselfie, and started down just as graupel was beginning to fall at 11:45 a.m.
As usual, once I finally gave in and put on my rain gear, the precipitation stopped within minutes. I thought about jogging down the trail to see what kind of RT time I was capable of, but I was enjoying the hike too much. Long-forgotten memories from 2011 came flooding back. It was great to remember friends and experiences that seem a lifetime ago. Not to mention, Horn Fork Basin is a pretty special place.
Graupel chasing me down.
North Cottonwood Creek.
I returned to the car at 2:30 p.m., roughly 6.5 hours RT with a very casual descent pace. I had to stay in the hills (not complaining) to lead a Colorado Mountain Club hike Sunday, so after a pizza and a couple beers at Eddyline, I set up camp at the free dispersed sites across from the Avalanche Gulch TH. I sipped a few Dale's, made a small fire, and read Anatoli Boukreev's Above the Clouds in between periods of continued reflection. I'm a social hiker and I enjoy exploring the mountains with friends, but sometimes, a little solitude can cleanse the soul.
A perfect evening.
#freejasper
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
...as always and an enjoyable read. Funny, for me, my wife and I did Harvard/Columbia as an overnight(that turned into two nights) in early June of 2011. One of the most fun/miserable climbs of our lives. I've always wondered what Horn Fork Basin would be like without historic levels of snow(in summer)...
Nice report, Jeff! I know what you mean about having a solo hike give you the opportunity to be reflective upon yourself and previous climbs. You mention the 3 lost climbers (Terry, Steve, and Jim) and I have thought about these 3 several times myself. Shortly before Terry and Steve passed, I was in communication with both of them, and it hit me pretty hard in both cases.
Nice contrast between seasons in some of your shots! Tomorrow I will be flying out there for an extended vacation, and while I hope to get in a good share of climbing, I also hope to meet more of our 14er community. Let me know if you're interested in doing something.
(BTW, it looks like you tore down a sign post for fuel! ha!)
Starting you hike late as you did is a sound tactic. Even as late as 1pm is overly underrated (pun kind of intended). I climbed Princeton, Antero, Sneffels, and Huron with ultra late starts and had excellent weather and XTREMEly light crowds. The most I've ever seen past 13:00 were actually the standard, late morning summiteers of Huron (usually first time climbers) who inexplicably transcended from amateur mall shoppers to the colonizers of Mars. They asked me, ”What made you so wise in the ways of science?” and tried to convince to turn around because 13:00 was ”too late” of a start. ”You could get struck by thunder!” ”You will never make it!” I was convinced that after 2pm, the marmots transform into Grizzlies thanks to the heating of the sun and the clear skies, but I pressed on. Now that we have the compelling evidence, thanks to your trip report, we know that the Earth is not in fact flat, it is mountainous. The paradigm the mandatory rule of summiting the 14ers before noon has been ruled ”myth” and solo mountaineers can climb CO's 14ers in solitude late in the day. This is not science fiction, THIS IS SCIENCE FACT! Excellent trip report!
The Artist Formerly Known as B-Thom -- Thanks man, I'm trying to find ways to recapture the ”adventure” of it all.
Sam -- I would have much rather had you there. In a BD Firstlight.
Prick -- If I saturated the neon yellow Nanopuff in my summit photo I'm pretty sure it could be used as a weapon of mass destruction.
Jay -- Nothing more calming than a solo walk in the hills, as you well know.
John -- Don't ever say the word Columbia to me again.
MtnHub -- It was actually a 2x4 that was randomly leaning against a tree in my campsite. Given the surrounding woods were picked clean, it was a huge bonus.
Keith -- Still offended. #freejasper
anasarca76 -- It's definitely one of the gems of the Sawatch.
Dillon -- Kate wanted him for the weekend. Poor fella.
..for sharing.. sounds like a reflective hike. We were up the same day.. glad you missed the weather. Lots of people heading to Columbia bailed down Frenchman's that day.
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I'm glad you got out and enjoyed the day!
