OTHER Trip Report 08/22/2014

Peak(s):	Mt Zirkel - 12180
Date Posted:	08/22/2014
Date Climbed:	08/19/2014
Author:	cougar

Going Around in Zirkels
With my San Juan 14er plans washed out for the second year in a row in late August, I still had a week off to do something. It was looking pretty wet over most of western CO, not looking like a fun trip. With everything packed up and ready to go somewhere, the Park Range seemed like a decent alternative plan. Although the elevations are much lower, this is a very rugged and scenic area, and half the drive. It also has very thick and lush jungle vegetation. Mt Zirkel had been on my to-do list anyway, along with a few other things up north, and I hadn't been to the area, so off I went. Because this was a last second decision, I had done just minimal research, although what info there is isn't that thorough. I grabbed a topo map of the area before heading out of town, and looked at route descriptions on summitpost quickly. Two routes were mentioned, the Red Dirt Pass route (easier but longer) and the Gilpin Creek approach, a bit shorter but with more off-trail navigation (albeit climbers trails), as well as mention of doing a loop of these. The loop sounded interesting. I chose to ascend the Red Dirt Pass route and descend Gilpin. The non-summitting on-trail variant of this called the 'Zirkel Circle'. I also chose to do these in a single day instead of packing in. This plan would result in an epic day. I found a dispersed camping spot about a half mile up FR433 (there are tons of forest roads with 2WD access in the area, but dispersed sites up them are widely scattered - there is a larger area lower down the Seedhouse Rd closer to the river, plus the campgrounds). It's posted no camping at the TH but most everyone packs in anyway. Also, the area is full of noxious weeds, quite pungent but you get used to it. I got little sleep at night as I kept hearing sounds like chewing on the cables of the truck (marmot or porcupine). Although I had set out repellent and mothballs and packed my chicken wire, I didn't think this area was that big of a problem. No damage. I set out on the trail by about 5am, heading up the Gold Creek Trail by a quarter moon, which provided a bit of light. Travel time was pretty quick on the good trail, with a few tricky stream crossings over logs. Just before sunrise, I got to Gold Creek Lake, and was greeted by a porcupine charging at me up the trail. The night-vision mode on my camera came in handy for this. It also made me worry about my vehicle. porcupine This was the first time I'd seen a porcupine, so it was a thrill (similar to being five feet from a bear the day before). I continued on past a couple trail junctions, including the one for Gilpin Lake below the Slovenia Mine. As dawn broke, the scenery in the basin revealed itself. I could see Red Dirt Pass and the trail up was pretty good. Although the approach is long, it really didn't seem so bad, and the basin was scenic. It was a bit breezy ascending the pass, and especially in the saddle, but not brutal. Red Dirt Pass trail ascends up this basin looking down the approach basin. From the pass, there are cairns marking the route up towards Mt Zirkel. Mellow tundra stroll, bypass a few knolls, and I stayed a bit below the ridge crest to keep out of the wind. Shortly, Mt Zirkel comes into view: Mt Zirkel the final area around the summit has several rock outcrops. I climbed the candidates for the summit, pretty easy 2+ scrambling. The views really opened up and the rocks and cliffs are impressive. The view of Big Agnes is spectacular. For something at just around 12000 ft, it is quite the rugged and spectacular peak. Peggy Peak: Big Agnes: Big Agnes Zirkel summit cliffs: Zirkel summit area The middle summit on Zirkel is the high point, pretty small area to stand on. No summit cairn, register, or benchmark. The other block just a bit north was a pile of choss that looked nasty to climb. A note on these peaks: the rock is rotten in a lot of spots, although the standard route up Zirkel is pretty solid. I had made good time to the summit (under 4 hours), and was looking at my descent route. I wanted to get down quickly before storms, as it had been cloudy all day with a 50% chance of storms by noon. I planned to descend the Gilpin Creek route and get to that trail. The info I had mentioned Pt. 12006 (which I had seen) and some unnamed lake at 10819 ft. On the map, this lake looked to be below Zirkel's summit and between it and Big Agnes. I looked down from the summit and saw an unnamed lake in the basin about at that elevation: unnamed misleading lake I didn't see any other lake around, and based on the peaks around me and what was east/west, I thought that was the lake to head for. This would be a very bad decision. Because that wasn't actually the lake that feeds Gilpin Creek, and actually led into the North Fork Elk River drainage instead. Which I didn't realize for a couple hours or more. descent lines, correct and incorrect The green line was where I thought I was going. The yellow line is likely the route described that goes through this basin and over pt 12006. The red line is the line I actually took, because I thought that was the lake and didn't even see the other one. Both are due west of the summit and in the shadow of Big Agnes. I found a gully to descend (passing on a nastier looking one) a bit of a ways below the summit (back towards Red Dirt Pass). It didn't look too bad from above, but it was VERY loose and steep, and took a while to descend safely. The rock cliffs on the north side of the gully were crumbling, as were a few larger rocks I was attempting to use as holds. I did a bit of scree sliding on the way down. Eventually I made it to a moraine just above the lake, and descended towards it, relieved to be on easier ground. Except the talus continued around the shore. At the lake outlet, I continued following the stream (believing it would lead to the Gilpin trail shortly). My GPS said it was about 2.5 miles NW to a trail. Just follow the stream down. The summitpost description also mentioned game trails through the willows and climbers trails. I didn't find many willows, but I did find semblances of trails in spots. The terrain was thicker along steep slopes of a gorge. My goal was to get to the open green meadowy area I could see below, which looked easy to navigate. But the slopes were too thick with vegetation and trees and too steep to descend, with cliffs and waterfalls intermixed. I backtracked uphill a bit to easier terrain to navigate, and eventually found a sort of trail that followed the stream from a few hundred feet up. This led me to a less steep slope that was more open, and I could descend to the meadow. I thought it would be smooth sailing from here, but I was dealt another nasty surprise - this wasn't all grassy meadow. Or even willows. It was thigh to waist deep tall grass, a few willows, lots of muck in them, and even the shorter grass and tall plants were a pain to shwack through. It looked like the Everglades! I plodded through, seeking out the more open/drier areas, and crossing the stream a few times back and forth in the process. All the while, my GPS was saying I was getting closer to a trail. After a couple miles of this, I came across more signs of unofficial trails (game trails mainly, and the moose paths through the tall grass helped a bit). Then a hidden tall waterfall came into view, at least 100 ft high: hidden big falls falls Around this spot I was around a faint path, and found a wet topo map on the ground. The same type that I was carrying. This was encouraging as it seemed I was close to the trail now, which the GPS confirmed. I navigated more tough (but a bit drier) terrain, and ended up at a small falls and had to cross the stream again, then up a very steep slope, using branches to pull up. Finally I made it to a trail. I was expecting a junction around here, and expecting to be maybe 3-4 miles from the trailhead. So I checked my GPS for distance to Gilpin Lake, and other landmarks, and was shocked to find Gilpin Lake was 4.4 miles away! I looked around at a couple others, wondered where I was, then noticed my GPS showing close proximity to the North Fork Elk River. Which I had been following all along. I pulled out my topo map, to get an idea of where I was, then freaked out. I was on the Diamond Park trail, many miles from the Slovonia TH, opposite side of the mountains where I thought I was. Then I checked my GPS again and it said something like 2.5 miles to Diamond Park. With no other options, and with it starting to rain, I headed out for that trailhead, as it was my best shot at getting back. I was worried about spending the night out in a storm, but hoping I could find people at the trailhead or along the way to give me a ride back. But I hadn't seen anyone all day (and wouldn't, for a while, either) and that trailhead was pretty far around from Slavonia. When I looked at the map, I thought there was no way I could cover that distance in the day. With the rain picking up a bit, and forecast for heavy storms that afternoon and evening (I had a poncho and food and water, but would have been miserable), I tried to call for SAR. It took me a while to get a signal, but I got through to a 911 dispatcher and explained my situation. He said they wouldn't mobilize SAR since I was uninjured and not lost (I knew where I was) but offered to get a deputy out to give me a ride from the trailhead if I didn't find anyone else, but to call back when I got to the Diamond Park trailhead and give them an update. So I slogged on out, figuring maybe three miles to the trailhead (which has a few atv trails branching off). But it's Tuesday in an obscure area, so who's going to be around. The rain stopped, and I still enjoyed the scenery and got a few pictures of the Diamond Park area: Diamond Park area Diamond Park Diamond Park The Diamond Park trail fizzled out in a meadow of wildflowers and more tall grass. Then it rolled up and down hills. I didn't see anyone, and didn't see a trailhead. It just seemed to go on and on. Then I saw a dirt road and went towards it. This road wasn't on my GPS or topo maps. Because it's a private road. Apparently the trail branches, and is overgrown, and I ended up on some private property, eventually finding a sign saying 'private road'. The actual trail is maybe a few hundred yards over. My GPS did indicate FR433 was on the low ridge above me, about a half mile away. Then I heard a dog barking, and some cows, and figured there were people around, maybe a cabin, so I headed that way. I thought I heard voices too (telling the dog to stop barking). Well, eventually I found the dog, at a campsite, but no people around when I shouted out. The tent was one of those old-fashioned canvas ones like the army or miners had, and I saw some riding gear set out, so it looks like they went for a horse ride. With no one around, I saw FR433 was a bit over a half mile away, just up what looked like a grassy open slope across the stream. So I crossed the river again (having quite wet and muddy boots and pants now), and headed up it. I figured that was my best option since it would lead closer to my trailhead without a long out and around drive. Plus my GPS had about 4.5 miles to the campground where I figured I could hitch a ride, worst case. Well, that slope wasn't dry or grassy - it was more of that very tall grass and muck, along with those other huge plants. And the road was a few hundred feet further than the gps indicated. Finally, I made it to the road, relieved to be on easier ground. view from slog out on road 3.5 miles to the bottom of the road, and another 3 miles up Seedhouse Rd to where I parked. I headed to what the gps indicated was a fork in the road, which didn't exist. Then I ate something (I didn't stop to eat once I found out I was way off path, since I didn't want to miss a chance at getting a ride). I called the sheriff and told them where I was and my plan to get down the road and hopefully hitch a ride, the farthest at the campground). The slog down the road wasn't too bad compared to all the bushwhacking. But I saw no one the whole time. Eventually I made it to the bottom and could see the campground and forest service station, and a vehicle or two driving down the road towards the trailhead. I thought about checking the FS place first, but didn't see any activity. Then I checked the trailhead next to the campground. Two vehicles parked, but no one around. I saw a truck go by, then got back on the main road. A couple minutes later two more vehicles drove by, and I was able to hitch a ride. They were looking for dispersed camping but gave me a ride to the trailhead. I offered to point out some spots I saw and gave the driver $10 for saving me the extra three mile slog up that road. Finally reunited with my truck, I camped at the same spot as the night before, with an interesting sunset and thunderclouds. sunset safely back camping Sure enough, the thunderstorms were heavy that evening and it was a soggy night throughout. my GPS track (there is no tent/campground in the center, that's a map error): topo track 28.6 miles on foot, about ~4500 ft elevation gain, 14 hours. The yellow line is the last 3 miles I hitched a ride. Green line was the intended (much shorter) loop. Although I was tired, the 28 miles didn't feel so bad, probably due to the limited elevation gain and being on roads and trails for a decent chunk. But my feet had some blistery rubbings which limited my activity for the rest of the week. The next day was burritos, beers, and hot springs in Steamboat (if ever there was a good time for a hot spring, it was after this hike). I managed Hahns Peak after a rest day, but my feet were hurting on the way down, I didn't feel like hunting for the moleskin, and my boots needed to dry out. The Park Range is awesome, rugged scenery and not to be overlooked. It's very different from much of CO - lots of different lush vegetation, and wildlife. The standard route up Zirkel from Red Dirt Pass is reasonable as a day trip, but beware of 'explorations' being more epic than intended. Even with a GPS, topo map, and lots of off-trail experience in the mountains, it's still possible to get way off route and into trouble. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Going Around in Zirkels

With my San Juan 14er plans washed out for the second year in a row in late August, I still had a week off to do something.
It was looking pretty wet over most of western CO, not looking like a fun trip. With everything packed up and ready to go somewhere, the Park Range seemed like a decent alternative plan. Although the elevations are much lower, this is a very rugged and scenic area, and half the drive. It also has very thick and lush jungle vegetation. Mt Zirkel had been on my to-do list anyway, along with a few other things up north, and I hadn't been to the area, so off I went.

Because this was a last second decision, I had done just minimal research, although what info there is isn't that thorough. I grabbed a topo map of the area before heading out of town, and looked at route descriptions on summitpost quickly. Two routes were mentioned, the Red Dirt Pass route (easier but longer) and the Gilpin Creek approach, a bit shorter but with more off-trail navigation (albeit climbers trails), as well as mention of doing a loop of these. The loop sounded interesting. I chose to ascend the Red Dirt Pass route and descend Gilpin. The non-summitting on-trail variant of this called the 'Zirkel Circle'. I also chose to do these in a single day instead of packing in. This plan would result in an epic day.

I found a dispersed camping spot about a half mile up FR433 (there are tons of forest roads with 2WD access in the area, but dispersed sites up them are widely scattered - there is a larger area lower down the Seedhouse Rd closer to the river, plus the campgrounds). It's posted no camping at the TH but most everyone packs in anyway. Also, the area is full of noxious weeds, quite pungent but you get used to it.

I got little sleep at night as I kept hearing sounds like chewing on the cables of the truck (marmot or porcupine). Although I had set out repellent and mothballs and packed my chicken wire, I didn't think this area was that big of a problem. No damage.

I set out on the trail by about 5am, heading up the Gold Creek Trail by a quarter moon, which provided a bit of light. Travel time was pretty quick on the good trail, with a few tricky stream crossings over logs. Just before sunrise, I got to Gold Creek Lake, and was greeted by a porcupine charging at me up the trail. The night-vision mode on my camera came in handy for this. It also made me worry about my vehicle.

This was the first time I'd seen a porcupine, so it was a thrill (similar to being five feet from a bear the day before).

I continued on past a couple trail junctions, including the one for Gilpin Lake below the Slovenia Mine. As dawn broke, the scenery in the basin revealed itself.

I could see Red Dirt Pass and the trail up was pretty good. Although the approach is long, it really didn't seem so bad, and the basin was scenic. It was a bit breezy ascending the pass, and especially in the saddle, but not brutal.

Red Dirt Pass trail ascends up this basin

looking down the approach basin.

From the pass, there are cairns marking the route up towards Mt Zirkel. Mellow tundra stroll, bypass a few knolls, and I stayed a bit below the ridge crest to keep out of the wind. Shortly, Mt Zirkel comes into view:

the final area around the summit has several rock outcrops. I climbed the candidates for the summit, pretty easy 2+ scrambling. The views really opened up and the rocks and cliffs are impressive. The view of Big Agnes is spectacular. For something at just around 12000 ft, it is quite the rugged and spectacular peak.

Peggy Peak:

Big Agnes:

Zirkel summit cliffs:

The middle summit on Zirkel is the high point, pretty small area to stand on. No summit cairn, register, or benchmark. The other block just a bit north was a pile of choss that looked nasty to climb. A note on these peaks: the rock is rotten in a lot of spots, although the standard route up Zirkel is pretty solid.

I had made good time to the summit (under 4 hours), and was looking at my descent route. I wanted to get down quickly before storms, as it had been cloudy all day with a 50% chance of storms by noon. I planned to descend the Gilpin Creek route and get to that trail. The info I had mentioned Pt. 12006 (which I had seen) and some unnamed lake at 10819 ft. On the map, this lake looked to be below Zirkel's summit and between it and Big Agnes. I looked down from the summit and saw an unnamed lake in the basin about at that elevation:

I didn't see any other lake around, and based on the peaks around me and what was east/west, I thought that was the lake to head for. This would be a very bad decision. Because that wasn't actually the lake that feeds Gilpin Creek, and actually led into the North Fork Elk River drainage instead. Which I didn't realize for a couple hours or more.

The green line was where I thought I was going. The yellow line is likely the route described that goes through this basin and over pt 12006. The red line is the line I actually took, because I thought that was the lake and didn't even see the other one. Both are due west of the summit and in the shadow of Big Agnes.

I found a gully to descend (passing on a nastier looking one) a bit of a ways below the summit (back towards Red Dirt Pass). It didn't look too bad from above, but it was VERY loose and steep, and took a while to descend safely. The rock cliffs on the north side of the gully were crumbling, as were a few larger rocks I was attempting to use as holds. I did a bit of scree sliding on the way down. Eventually I made it to a moraine just above the lake, and descended towards it, relieved to be on easier ground. Except the talus continued around the shore.

At the lake outlet, I continued following the stream (believing it would lead to the Gilpin trail shortly). My GPS said it was about 2.5 miles NW to a trail. Just follow the stream down. The summitpost description also mentioned game trails through the willows and climbers trails. I didn't find many willows, but I did find semblances of trails in spots. The terrain was thicker along steep slopes of a gorge. My goal was to get to the open green meadowy area I could see below, which looked easy to navigate. But the slopes were too thick with vegetation and trees and too steep to descend, with cliffs and waterfalls intermixed. I backtracked uphill a bit to easier terrain to navigate, and eventually found a sort of trail that followed the stream from a few hundred feet up. This led me to a less steep slope that was more open, and I could descend to the meadow.

I thought it would be smooth sailing from here, but I was dealt another nasty surprise - this wasn't all grassy meadow. Or even willows. It was thigh to waist deep tall grass, a few willows, lots of muck in them, and even the shorter grass and tall plants were a pain to shwack through. It looked like the Everglades! I plodded through, seeking out the more open/drier areas, and crossing the stream a few times back and forth in the process. All the while, my GPS was saying I was getting closer to a trail.

After a couple miles of this, I came across more signs of unofficial trails (game trails mainly, and the moose paths through the tall grass helped a bit). Then a hidden tall waterfall came into view, at least 100 ft high:

Around this spot I was around a faint path, and found a wet topo map on the ground. The same type that I was carrying. This was encouraging as it seemed I was close to the trail now, which the GPS confirmed. I navigated more tough (but a bit drier) terrain, and ended up at a small falls and had to cross the stream again, then up a very steep slope, using branches to pull up. Finally I made it to a trail.

I was expecting a junction around here, and expecting to be maybe 3-4 miles from the trailhead. So I checked my GPS for distance to Gilpin Lake, and other landmarks, and was shocked to find Gilpin Lake was 4.4 miles away! I looked around at a couple others, wondered where I was, then noticed my GPS showing close proximity to the North Fork Elk River. Which I had been following all along. I pulled out my topo map, to get an idea of where I was, then freaked out. I was on the Diamond Park trail, many miles from the Slovonia TH, opposite side of the mountains where I thought I was. Then I checked my GPS again and it said something like 2.5 miles to Diamond Park. With no other options, and with it starting to rain, I headed out for that trailhead, as it was my best shot at getting back. I was worried about spending the night out in a storm, but hoping I could find people at the trailhead or along the way to give me a ride back. But I hadn't seen anyone all day (and wouldn't, for a while, either) and that trailhead was pretty far around from Slavonia. When I looked at the map, I thought there was no way I could cover that distance in the day.

With the rain picking up a bit, and forecast for heavy storms that afternoon and evening (I had a poncho and food and water, but would have been miserable), I tried to call for SAR. It took me a while to get a signal, but I got through to a 911 dispatcher and explained my situation. He said they wouldn't mobilize SAR since I was uninjured and not lost (I knew where I was) but offered to get a deputy out to give me a ride from the trailhead if I didn't find anyone else, but to call back when I got to the Diamond Park trailhead and give them an update.

So I slogged on out, figuring maybe three miles to the trailhead (which has a few atv trails branching off). But it's Tuesday in an obscure area, so who's going to be around. The rain stopped, and I still enjoyed the scenery and got a few pictures of the Diamond Park area:

The Diamond Park trail fizzled out in a meadow of wildflowers and more tall grass. Then it rolled up and down hills. I didn't see anyone, and didn't see a trailhead. It just seemed to go on and on. Then I saw a dirt road and went towards it. This road wasn't on my GPS or topo maps. Because it's a private road. Apparently the trail branches, and is overgrown, and I ended up on some private property, eventually finding a sign saying 'private road'. The actual trail is maybe a few hundred yards over. My GPS did indicate FR433 was on the low ridge above me, about a half mile away. Then I heard a dog barking, and some cows, and figured there were people around, maybe a cabin, so I headed that way. I thought I heard voices too (telling the dog to stop barking). Well, eventually I found the dog, at a campsite, but no people around when I shouted out. The tent was one of those old-fashioned canvas ones like the army or miners had, and I saw some riding gear set out, so it looks like they went for a horse ride.

With no one around, I saw FR433 was a bit over a half mile away, just up what looked like a grassy open slope across the stream. So I crossed the river again (having quite wet and muddy boots and pants now), and headed up it. I figured that was my best option since it would lead closer to my trailhead without a long out and around drive. Plus my GPS had about 4.5 miles to the campground where I figured I could hitch a ride, worst case. Well, that slope wasn't dry or grassy - it was more of that very tall grass and muck, along with those other huge plants. And the road was a few hundred feet further than the gps indicated.

Finally, I made it to the road, relieved to be on easier ground.

3.5 miles to the bottom of the road, and another 3 miles up Seedhouse Rd to where I parked. I headed to what the gps indicated was a fork in the road, which didn't exist. Then I ate something (I didn't stop to eat once I found out I was way off path, since I didn't want to miss a chance at getting a ride). I called the sheriff and told them where I was and my plan to get down the road and hopefully hitch a ride, the farthest at the campground). The slog down the road wasn't too bad compared to all the bushwhacking. But I saw no one the whole time. Eventually I made it to the bottom and could see the campground and forest service station, and a vehicle or two driving down the road towards the trailhead. I thought about checking the FS place first, but didn't see any activity. Then I checked the trailhead next to the campground. Two vehicles parked, but no one around. I saw a truck go by, then got back on the main road. A couple minutes later two more vehicles drove by, and I was able to hitch a ride. They were looking for dispersed camping but gave me a ride to the trailhead. I offered to point out some spots I saw and gave the driver $10 for saving me the extra three mile slog up that road.

Finally reunited with my truck, I camped at the same spot as the night before, with an interesting sunset and thunderclouds.

Sure enough, the thunderstorms were heavy that evening and it was a soggy night throughout.

my GPS track (there is no tent/campground in the center, that's a map error):

28.6 miles on foot, about ~4500 ft elevation gain, 14 hours. The yellow line is the last 3 miles I hitched a ride. Green line was the intended (much shorter) loop.

Although I was tired, the 28 miles didn't feel so bad, probably due to the limited elevation gain and being on roads and trails for a decent chunk. But my feet had some blistery rubbings which limited my activity for the rest of the week. The next day was burritos, beers, and hot springs in Steamboat (if ever there was a good time for a hot spring, it was after this hike). I managed Hahns Peak after a rest day, but my feet were hurting on the way down, I didn't feel like hunting for the moleskin, and my boots needed to dry out.

The Park Range is awesome, rugged scenery and not to be overlooked. It's very different from much of CO - lots of different lush vegetation, and wildlife. The standard route up Zirkel from Red Dirt Pass is reasonable as a day trip, but beware of 'explorations' being more epic than intended. Even with a GPS, topo map, and lots of off-trail experience in the mountains, it's still possible to get way off route and into trouble.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

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