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Officially now called Billie (Jean) Mtn - modified Southwest Ridge Route
This is my mountain now... Billie Mtn.
10.4 miles
3200 feet
6.5 hours
The trailhead is the Lost Man Trailhead on the west side of Independence Pass.
I had previously summited the other four peaks in this group. The first one last September in a snow storm and frigid temperatures. I only made 13,033 that time. I made it back a few weeks ago and got the other three, orphaning Williams Mtn. Okay don't ask. I was back to finish off this group. Hope this has some useful info if you are trying just for Williams Mountain.
I followed the trail right to the reservoir, crossed the dam and took the Lost Man Trail to an open area that works well. I left the trail and followed the open spaces though the brush, no bushwhacking needed. I came up over the bump and contoured around the slopes somewhat to below Williams Mountain.
The first look at Williams.
The saddle.
I decided to go for the longest gully to the right, closest to the peak.
Pristine ponds and scenery.
Through the rock garden.
The bottom of the gully I went up. The gully went well, grass and solid for the most part.
Part way up.
A look down.
I left the gully and headed for the peak.
I headed across the dirt and made it to the base of the wall. You are then heading up to the two blocks you can see left center of the last picture. bergsteigen has a good picture of that too. The cux of the climb from the base of the wall to the summit starts just before those blocks and to their right.
The start is Class 3.
A look back toward the gully after climbing part way. You can see the dirt I crossed
Okay Furthermore said Class 3 but I have Billie Jean trained to spot Class 4-5 stuff and she alerted me to some Class 4 rock. I am pretty sure it was more than Class 3 for me anyway.
This is now staring you in the face.
I went to the left side of the vertical rock, following the crack and then over the slab (right of the two blocks). There is a nice crack to grab on the slab. The left side slopes down maybe 45 degrees for 30 feet before dropping off into thin air.
This is on the right side of the vertical rock and there is a good drop and exposure.
A look down on the right.
A look back towards the first three peaks along the ridge to the south.
A look to the north and the start toward 13,108.
Another look back from the summit. There were a few more moves needed to get to here.
I wasn't sure about how difficult the last pitch might be so I did something I have not done before, I set cairns along the way from the gully to the summit, so I could be sure to descend the same way. The descent was easier than going up with one good grab as I made my way down over the slab, I descended almost exactly how I ascended the entire route.
My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):
done with the Sawatch! I think the trick to this one is climbing to the saddle (south) and then climbing gullies on the west side to reach the south ridge.
Many years ago, we did that one by itself and by the same route from the looks of it as we went up the face we could see from the trail (came back to finish the rest of that group at another time). I specifically recognize that large flat (slightly tilting) rock just below the summit (upper right hand quadrant in Image 19). In my opinion, I thoroughly support the re-naming of the mountain, she's certainly earned the recognition ... Good photos ... looks like you two had a great day (Image #1 is calendar material ... you're a good dog-dad.) Thanks for posting. Happy trails!
Nice report. That dog of yours sure manages terrain well...
Alas,Billie Jean is not my route, she's just a gully, and that Billy Traverse is what I'm all about...after seeing the enormity of the ridge from Twining and Geissler, I know I've got to do it.
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