Mt. Columbia Trip Report 08/26/2014

Peak(s):	Mt. Columbia - 14,075 feet Mt. Harvard - 14,424 feet
Date Posted:	08/26/2014
Date Climbed:	08/25/2014
Author:	bassplayer7

Mt. Harvard and Columbia Traverse - two for the price of two
We started at the North Cottonwood Creek TH about 2:35am. The trail is great, smooth, and with seemingly very little elevation gain. We crossed one nice bridge shortly after starting down the trail, and another one (over the same stream) approximately 1.5 miles up the trail. Shortly after that we came to a nice trail junction and headed right towards Bear Lake and Horn Fork Basin. We noticed that there was no option for Mt. Harvard (where that trail ultimately leads to if you stay right at another unmarked junction) on the sign but someone had scratched that below the other options. There were 5 in our party, and we knew another party of 3 was coming after us to do just Mt. Columbia. The route description of the standard route of Mt. Columbia implied that the turnoff trail for Columbia was 3 miles up the main trail. It describes a 1.5mile segment, a 1.25mi segment, and another .25 mile segment before the turnoff. We hiked along the main trail looking for the turnoff to help the other party of 3 know where to turn off. We used GPS coordinates to positively locate the trail and built a good sized cairn on the edge of the wide trail to mark the junction. It was a little more challenging to find because of all of the other campsite, short trails further back. The problem was the trail turnoff was actually 3.95 miles up from the trailhead, not 3. There was a small cairn off to the side on the Columbia trail which could very easily be missed. So, if you are doing just Columbia, there should be a nice cairn 3.95 miles from the TH where you turn right to ascend the shoulder of Columbia. Our view while ascending Harvard We continued along the trail and stayed right at the trail junction where there is supposed to be a sign (according to the 14ers.com route description). I believe going left goes to Bear Lake - a lake visible from Mt. Harvard, Mt. Columbia, and Mt. Yale. We hiked through a talus field where there are many cairns and the trail is followable on it own for much of the time. After leaving the talus field we followed the good trail all the way to the ridge just below the Mt. Harvard summit. In the two times I've done Harvard, I've taken the same route to the summit, which comes in not too difficult. After leaving the ridge, I drop down just a tiny bit towards the right before turning left and climbing up a bit of a notch. After climbing on top of that notch, I go right and then climb a large flat rock to the summit. If you look, there are handholds and footholds on the rock, but it could be a little uncomfortable for someone without any climbing experience. We summited Harvard at 7:20 a.m. Bear lake from Harvard It was cold and windy on the summit, so I put on a few more layers and 4 of our group set out for Columbia (1 turned around). There were low clouds blowing through, but they didn't look threatening. The ridge was pretty easy to climb, and we followed the cairns and light trail which generally stayed to the right of the ridge. We eventually crossed to the left (east) side of the ridge and continued below the ridge before coming to a place where we turned left and descended into the basin. Our goal was to follow the 14ers.com route description and take the easier, safer route which avoided the gully. This was the most difficult time for us in terms of route finding. Just starting the traverse with the Harvard summit clearly visible. Traverse with Columbia visible Another look at Harvard's summit from the route. Yet another picture of Harvard and the traverse A view of the route with Columbia not pictured to the right. First, almost all of the cairns disappeared, and we weren't able to locate ones to go to. Second, there was no clear time to exit the shoulder and cross the large boulder/talus field under the "rabbit". We left the grassy shoulder about 12,900 and soon reached rough terrain where route finding was a challenge. We ended up wandering towards Columbia trying to cross the numerous gullies along the way. Most of it was bouldering as it was almost entirely large boulders that we were climbing. We didn't want to drop too low and it was difficult to tell if we were too high or not. You can view my RunKeeper route of the trip here: (url)http://runkeeper.com/user/bassplayer7/activity/421300513(url). (You don't have to have an account to see, the route is in the background and you can see the "official" route on the topo map as well. The basin we descended into to avoid the ridge. Columbia summit clearly visible from route while descending into basin. We eventually crossed the area and started finding a very occasional cairn. For the most part, though, there was nothing and when we could (after the "rabbit") we started towards Columbia's northern summit ridge. After getting to the ridge we stayed to the left just slightly. We climbed at least 2 false summit before reaching the actual summit. We summited Mt. Columbia about 11:45 a.m. We didn't stay very long up there before descending Columbia's standard route. After crossing the rough gully, Columbia's (possibly false) summit is visible. A closer view of Columbia's summit ridge. This is roughly the route we took. Note that there are large boulders in the visible part of our route in the gully area. Coming down Columbia's south-southwest shoulder was really something. One thing to note is that the trail y's at one point coming down from the summit. We went right knowing that was the general direction we wanted to go. However, there are a number of trails (that appear well worn) that go right from that. These go straight down into a gully, that looks pretty rough to me. I recommend continuing past that to where the true trail goes down the shoulder. It is probably a few hundred yards past those other trails and you really can't miss it as the trail you are on just turns down and there are cairns along the route. Looking down Columbia's south shoulder The trail was true to it's description: steep and loose. However, nothing was so steep that it was uncomfortable, though, for me, as there wasn't really any exposure along that route. That said, if you don't do loose scree well, there is one section where the trail drops into the gully on the right (where some of the trails above go straight down), and you might do well to virtually crab walk it on all four. Some turn right before the trail drops off into the gully and attempt to find a less steep route into the gully. I'm not sure which is better and there is no "ideal" route through this. After dropping into the gully, the trail became like it was coming down the shoulder and was easy to follow. Before long we were back in the tree line and shortly reached the main trail - now only 3.95 miles from the trailhead. We kept a good pace but the miles still took their time. We got rained on, but were glad that part didn't come sooner. Overall it was a great trip with my two least favorite parts being: having trouble finding the route below the ridge, and coming down the shoulder of Columbia. I certainly wouldn't recommend attempting the traverse in poor weather. You need to see the ridge to know when to come up, and there is a lot of elevation gain (and lost) in that almost three miles. My biggest suggestion would be to try to find a way to get the right trail on your phone (as long as you have an extra battery pack) so you can follow the "recommended" route even when there are virtually no cairns or trail below the ridge during that one portion. Just a note, but it would be possible to descend out of the basin on the back side of Harvard/Columbia if weather forced you to. In fact, it may be a nicer way to ascend Columbia anyway with a more gradual ascent. We reached the trailhead and finished our trip about 4:20pm. Overall, it took us about 12.5 hours from TH to TH. Note that I think we certainly lost some time find our way below the ridge in the basin. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Mt. Harvard and Columbia Traverse - two for the price of two

We started at the North Cottonwood Creek TH about 2:35am. The trail is great, smooth, and with seemingly very little elevation gain. We crossed one nice bridge shortly after starting down the trail, and another one (over the same stream) approximately 1.5 miles up the trail. Shortly after that we came to a nice trail junction and headed right towards Bear Lake and Horn Fork Basin. We noticed that there was no option for Mt. Harvard (where that trail ultimately leads to if you stay right at another unmarked junction) on the sign but someone had scratched that below the other options.

There were 5 in our party, and we knew another party of 3 was coming after us to do just Mt. Columbia. The route description of the standard route of Mt. Columbia implied that the turnoff trail for Columbia was 3 miles up the main trail. It describes a 1.5mile segment, a 1.25mi segment, and another .25 mile segment before the turnoff. We hiked along the main trail looking for the turnoff to help the other party of 3 know where to turn off. We used GPS coordinates to positively locate the trail and built a good sized cairn on the edge of the wide trail to mark the junction. It was a little more challenging to find because of all of the other campsite, short trails further back. The problem was the trail turnoff was actually 3.95 miles up from the trailhead, not 3. There was a small cairn off to the side on the Columbia trail which could very easily be missed. So, if you are doing just Columbia, there should be a nice cairn 3.95 miles from the TH where you turn right to ascend the shoulder of Columbia.

We continued along the trail and stayed right at the trail junction where there is supposed to be a sign (according to the 14ers.com route description). I believe going left goes to Bear Lake - a lake visible from Mt. Harvard, Mt. Columbia, and Mt. Yale. We hiked through a talus field where there are many cairns and the trail is followable on it own for much of the time. After leaving the talus field we followed the good trail all the way to the ridge just below the Mt. Harvard summit. In the two times I've done Harvard, I've taken the same route to the summit, which comes in not too difficult. After leaving the ridge, I drop down just a tiny bit towards the right before turning left and climbing up a bit of a notch. After climbing on top of that notch, I go right and then climb a large flat rock to the summit. If you look, there are handholds and footholds on the rock, but it could be a little uncomfortable for someone without any climbing experience. We summited Harvard at 7:20 a.m.

It was cold and windy on the summit, so I put on a few more layers and 4 of our group set out for Columbia (1 turned around). There were low clouds blowing through, but they didn't look threatening. The ridge was pretty easy to climb, and we followed the cairns and light trail which generally stayed to the right of the ridge. We eventually crossed to the left (east) side of the ridge and continued below the ridge before coming to a place where we turned left and descended into the basin. Our goal was to follow the 14ers.com route description and take the easier, safer route which avoided the gully. This was the most difficult time for us in terms of route finding.

Just starting the traverse with the Harvard summit clearly visible.

Another look at Harvard's summit from the route.

Yet another picture of Harvard and the traverse

A view of the route with Columbia not pictured to the right.

First, almost all of the cairns disappeared, and we weren't able to locate ones to go to. Second, there was no clear time to exit the shoulder and cross the large boulder/talus field under the "rabbit". We left the grassy shoulder about 12,900 and soon reached rough terrain where route finding was a challenge. We ended up wandering towards Columbia trying to cross the numerous gullies along the way. Most of it was bouldering as it was almost entirely large boulders that we were climbing. We didn't want to drop too low and it was difficult to tell if we were too high or not. You can view my RunKeeper route of the trip here: (url)http://runkeeper.com/user/bassplayer7/activity/421300513(url). (You don't have to have an account to see, the route is in the background and you can see the "official" route on the topo map as well.

The basin we descended into to avoid the ridge.

Columbia summit clearly visible from route while descending into basin.

We eventually crossed the area and started finding a very occasional cairn. For the most part, though, there was nothing and when we could (after the "rabbit") we started towards Columbia's northern summit ridge. After getting to the ridge we stayed to the left just slightly. We climbed at least 2 false summit before reaching the actual summit. We summited Mt. Columbia about 11:45 a.m. We didn't stay very long up there before descending Columbia's standard route.

After crossing the rough gully, Columbia's (possibly false) summit is visible.

A closer view of Columbia's summit ridge.

This is roughly the route we took. Note that there are large boulders in the visible part of our route in the gully area.

Coming down Columbia's south-southwest shoulder was really something. One thing to note is that the trail y's at one point coming down from the summit. We went right knowing that was the general direction we wanted to go. However, there are a number of trails (that appear well worn) that go right from that. These go straight down into a gully, that looks pretty rough to me. I recommend continuing past that to where the true trail goes down the shoulder. It is probably a few hundred yards past those other trails and you really can't miss it as the trail you are on just turns down and there are cairns along the route.

The trail was true to it's description: steep and loose. However, nothing was so steep that it was uncomfortable, though, for me, as there wasn't really any exposure along that route. That said, if you don't do loose scree well, there is one section where the trail drops into the gully on the right (where some of the trails above go straight down), and you might do well to virtually crab walk it on all four. Some turn right before the trail drops off into the gully and attempt to find a less steep route into the gully. I'm not sure which is better and there is no "ideal" route through this.

After dropping into the gully, the trail became like it was coming down the shoulder and was easy to follow. Before long we were back in the tree line and shortly reached the main trail - now only 3.95 miles from the trailhead. We kept a good pace but the miles still took their time. We got rained on, but were glad that part didn't come sooner.

Overall it was a great trip with my two least favorite parts being: having trouble finding the route below the ridge, and coming down the shoulder of Columbia. I certainly wouldn't recommend attempting the traverse in poor weather. You need to see the ridge to know when to come up, and there is a lot of elevation gain (and lost) in that almost three miles. My biggest suggestion would be to try to find a way to get the right trail on your phone (as long as you have an extra battery pack) so you can follow the "recommended" route even when there are virtually no cairns or trail below the ridge during that one portion.

Just a note, but it would be possible to descend out of the basin on the back side of Harvard/Columbia if weather forced you to. In fact, it may be a nicer way to ascend Columbia anyway with a more gradual ascent.

We reached the trailhead and finished our trip about 4:20pm. Overall, it took us about 12.5 hours from TH to TH. Note that I think we certainly lost some time find our way below the ridge in the basin.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

jeffth5	How much time? 8/26/2014 10:52pm What time did you finish?
bassplayer7	Time added 8/27/2014 12:49am I added some information regarding times. It took us a total of about 12.5 hours.

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