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Jagged Mtn, don't believe the hype |
As the alarm sounded at 4:45 I slowly rolled over and started to imagine the long day ahead... oops, this isn't that kind of report.
So, my partner and I did what seems to be the standard strategy for Jagged, Take the 8:45 train from Durango and get dropped off at Neddleton at 11:15. Hike a little past jagged cabin the first day, camp, summit second day then hike down below Jagged cabin, camp, on the third day catch the train out.
BONUS: You can catch the train on the third day as it is traveling from Silverton to Durango at Needleton at around 3:30 and be in Durango after 6. What I did was catch that same train at 11:15 when it is on the way to Silverton. When it arrives at Silverton around 12:30 take your gear out and walk to the convenience store at the edge of Silverton and hitch a ride to Durango. I got to Durango at 2 and therefore saved over 4 hours!
So, about the hiking/climb, I say this mountain is overhyped because I was put under the impression that, because of its remoteness, the approach is mostly "bushwhacking." This is not true. You never go for more than 30 yards or so without being on a defined trail. The trail is no more obscure than some other centennial thirteeners.
As you are making your way from the saddle to the technical parts of the mountain it's a good idea to locate the colorful slings that make up the belay stations, this way you have a good idea of the route. The actual climbing part of the mountain is pretty straightforward, I don't have anything to add that hasn't already been said.
I strongly suggest not doing this climb before August as it would be very difficult with melting snow.
Obviously someone in your group has to be able to free climb class five. And be able to do it when it gets slippery. But with all the belay stations you could have people in your group who can only competently climb class 3+ and you'd be fine (a stronger climber could free climb up and set up top-ropes) but if that was the case you would be on the mountain a while so weather could easily be an issue.
Without getting into why I'm commenting about this, ALWAYS TIE A KNOT AT THE END OF YOUR RAPPELS. There is no benefit to not doing so other than saving 5 seconds. People die every year because they get comfortable rappelling and just rappel off the end of the rope. It's easy to think "well I just pay attention to how much rope I have left and always stop before I get to the end" but that's the exact thing the people who die every year think. It's not that these people who die are somehow forgetful and we are so much smarter than them. People just make mistakes.
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